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Toyota Corolla Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • j06j06 Posts: 90
    edited October 2011
    Thanks…

    Yes, I think it’s the same tires. I know it might be rated low by tirerack. But according to personal reviews by 60 users @ 1010tires, they are really good considering the price.

    Found online.. $160 mail in rebate for Good Year comfordtred with Sears Card. $116 per tire, $70 for installation but they charge $23 per tire for handling :sick: .

    I have to check with the local store for their price. If they don’t charge handling it will be great.
  • Yeah, the 'Survey' tab is based on user reviews on Tirerack and it looks like you could get some better performing tires, but that's just my opinion. Finding a tire recommended by several sites is hard...For example the user reviews of the Hankook H727 are excellent. Tirerack rates it as one of the poorest performers in their testing, and Discount Tire said they'd recommend Yokohamas before the Hankooks. Tires are just a crapshoot, I think!

    Shopping with different stores for tires is tricky. tirerack has cheap prices but you have to add shipping. Some shops charge less for installation but more for other things. It's insane. :mad:

    Like I said, I'd price the Yokohamas and Sumitomos. These also rate very well outside of tirerack. Michelins are probably the safest bet, but they are veery expensive. The Bridgestone Turanza Serenity would still be an excellent choice, so if they price the cheapest I don't see why you wouldn't get it.

    Also, look up cooper tires. The Cooper CS4 Touring gets great reviews everywhere, they probably have them in your size and speed rating. If Michelin didn't have the $70 rebate when I bought tires, I would have bought the Coopers because they were the cheapest from what I priced.
  • maganmagan Posts: 18
    '05 Corolla-exterior molding/trim-grey plastic runs from under driver's door to rear door. Need to know name of part to order online

    TIA
  • j06j06 Posts: 90
    Never tried sumitomo.. Yokohoma Geolander is on my 06 Highlander.. very smooth, quiet, but horrible in snow... :mad:

    Read many reviews on GY Comfordtred. All the good reviews were posted by users with less than 10K miles. Majority of them with more than 20K miles have many issues with the tire. Sidewall, not good one for highway.. I think it's good for 4 to 5 years..
  • j06j06 Posts: 90
    Any one in this forum tried Good Year Eagle RS-A?
  • daryll44daryll44 Posts: 306
    Isn't tha the OEM junk that I took off after 10,000 miles?
  • j06j06 Posts: 90
    With $160 rebate Sears is adding handling fee of $25 per tire for Assurance Comfotred. For Eagle only $5 per tire. Without road hazard after rebate only paying $320 bef. Tax. I am scared to put GY without road hazard.
  • we just got a corolla sport got a pretty sweet deal on monthly and the down but now we're kinda wondering if we got gypped on the service and extended warranties. just to explain it briefly we got extended 5 years for service, ding and dents, gap thing and lojack for an additonal $13 for 5 years. i don't think it was really a bad deal we kinda did bait and switch but i duno if it really is worth it still. total after 5 years is less that 800 lojack alone costs 500-625 but of course i'm trying to justify the extensions we got any thoughts?
    thanks.

    paperwork as titled:

    Toyota extra care vehicle service agreement application platinum coverage level

    toyota care plus

    perma plate warranty registration

    dent guard paintless service agreement
  • Where do I locate the shift solenoid valve DSL & how do i replace it?
  • mcdawggmcdawgg Posts: 1,668
    Yes, don't buy extended warranty, service agreement, etc. All that stuff is how dealers make tons of extra money.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,975
    I haven't heard the term "DSL" for these solenoids. There are 3 of them, usually named S2, SL and SLT.

    Anyway, you have to remove the valve body from the transmission...if you are prepared to do that, I can list instructions, but really you should have step by steps with diagrams, and for that you should subscribe to www.alldatadiy.com for a year--it's only $26 bucks and you can consult it for any repair on your car for the coming year.

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  • terceltomterceltom Posts: 1,017
    $780.00 PLUS THE EXTRA INTEREST you'll be paying on that $13.00 for five years. Yeah, I think they got you pretty good. Extended warranty not needed on a Toyota.
  • Regarding the obnoxious B-pillar rattle:

    I bought the 2010 Corolla with 9500 miles on it last summer (original warranty intact). I have brought it to the dealership 5 times for a rattle in the driver side B-pillar. I have also complained because I found that there was a dent removed from the driver side door and I was displeased with discovering several small bumps from the tool used to remove the dent. I have a feeling that the two are related somehow. When I was shown the Carfax the report was clean (no-accident history).

    My car has been at the dealership for over a week now and each time I call they say they cannot figure out the rattle. They can hear it, though.

    I'm starting to get rather worried. What are my options if they claim they cannot solve the rattle? Can I demand they buy the car back, trade it in for a similar vehicle, give me a good price on a trade-in...? I need to know because this is absolute b.s. and I refuse to accept an "irreparable" 2010 Corolla with an excessive and unnatural rattle I dropped $15k on (and bought new tires for!!) just a few months ago.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,975
    I doubt there's much you can do, since this type of defect wouldn't be covered under Lemon Laws, etc. I'd suggest taking it to a body shop. Dealers are generally lazy about things like this, nor are they motivated to spend shop time on it--- at best they send out a lot boy to hunt for the rattle for 15 minutes. The body shop might also be able to tell you if the car was seriously hit sometimes in the past (CARFAX often misses accidents). If THAT were found, then you'd have some good ammunition for a legal settlement.

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  • I don't know, but I have been with a rental Tacoma for over a week now while they've been trying to figure out the problem. They claim to be working with Toyota over the phone as well as having the shop foreman working on the vehicle. I'm trading the Tacoma for a Prius in this morning, so maybe they'll be more motivated to figuring out what the problem is. I don't want to drive the Corolla again until I get a straight answer from the dealership.

    If/when I get the car back and depending on the response from the dealership I'll take it to a body shop. I've been told a large dent was removed without re-painting it from the driver's door (odd that the rattle is coming from the driver side seatbelt pillar, no?) and now I have a feeling that the dealership avoided an accident repair/history by doing sub par and inadequate repair work. But we will see...all-in-all I'm pretty disgusted. If I was going to trade in the vehicle because of this I will have lost $4k in just the past 5 months plus what I'd need to spend on the vehicle I'd trade it in for. I shouldn't have irreparable rattles with a car that has less than 15k miles on the odometer.
  • terceltomterceltom Posts: 1,017
    Try another Toyota dealership.
  • So today I drove to the dealership and traded the Tacoma for a Prius. Prius had 3 miles on the odometer, heated leather seats, nav...highly doubt it's a rental but whatever.

    Got a call from the dealership a few hours later saying my Corolla was fixed. Apparently there was something amiss with the side curtain airbag that caused the rattle. I seriously hope they fixed the problem, I'll be picking it up tomorrow!
  • We have a 2009 Toyota Corolla and are looking for used rims for the snow tires.

    What other years/cars use the same rims?

    I believe they are 15x6J rims and I was told by an auto salvage yard they are 5x4" bolt pattern.
    A Toyota parts department said the rims are the same as the 03-09 Corolla and 93-97 Celica.
    Then I read in your forum that they are 5x100mm bolt pattern...
  • cjl252cjl252 Posts: 1
    I have a 2004 toyota corolla sport is making this loud humming noise that sounds like and exhaust leak. But it's not. I had the whole exhaust checked for leaks. Could it be a wheel bearing [non-permissible content removed]. I cant tell if it's in the front or the back while im driving. I just know it's loud as hell.
  • Hi
    I have the above car and always did timely oil change. Recently I picked it up from a shop where the bumper was being repainted. Upon leaving the shop i drove quarter mile and the oil light came up, and the temp gauge went up to about 40% (normally it is at 25%). I checked the oil and the dip stick showed very very low. So I added one and half quart and brought the oil level to slightly above normal level normal. However, the oil light still remained on and the temp. gauge continued to show at 40%. I slowly drove home about 6 miles away. Next day I towed the car to the dealer who, after inspecting told me that there may be too much sludge so it would be too expensive to repair. They would have to open the engine and then clean it out and reassemble. This would cost more than the value of the car.
    1)My question is how could the sludge build if I did regular oil changes?
    2) If I have them take off the oil pan and clean the screen would this help?
    3) Can anyone think of any way (besides dismantling the engine) to confirm that the sludge is the problem? If that turns out to be true than I will have to junk the car.
    4) I was wondering about foul play. The guy who had it for 3 days to paint the bumpers, was quite unhappy because I had insisted that he do the paint work again because the bumper color did not match the rest of the car. The car was in excellent shape and very well maintained, therefore I was puzzled this happened right after I left the body shop.
     
    T
    Any ideas would be greatly appreciated?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,975
    edited January 2012
    It's kind of hard to comment without some hard evidence. The best way to see if there is oil sludge is to remove the valve cover. Was this done? If not--if they just sniffed at it through the dipstick or something, that won't do. I'd certainly pay to have the valve cover removed while you're standing there and then you'll know the truth of it. If the sludge is really there, and it's incredibly thick and gooey and very extensive throughout the top of the engine, then that might be the end of the road, yes.

    But before making huge decisions like this you need really good verification.

    Typical oil sludge is shown here: notice how thick and black it is.

    image

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  • Thanks Mr. Shiftright for your response. I will talk to the service guy about removing the valve cover. Its a good idea, wonder why they did not recommend that?
    Thanks.
  • alex24alex24 Posts: 54
    Sir, after reading your post, I must say it sure sounds odd for this to happen right after getting your car from a shop. I have work on cars over 30 years and know alot the scams that go on. Do not remove your valve cover untill you do these test first. 1. Disconnect your positive battery cable from battery for approx 5 minutes then recoonnect it, and start your car and see if that stoped your oil light from being on. Doing that will cause your motor computer to reset alot of your motor settings, I know doing this works on resetting your engine check light, So its worth a try. 2. Drain your oil and inspect it for having a odd color and/or strange particals in it or being gummy.. If so than someone may have put something in your oil to make a bad effect on the motor. 3. Do a oil pressure test, its very easy to do, and if your oil pressure is proper psi. then theres nothing wrong with your engine oil pressure. And your oil light should not be on, if it is still on then your oil pressure sending unit could be bad or there is could be a clog right at where the oil reaches the oil pressure sending unit and stops the oil pressure unit from working correctlly which can cause your oil light to be on, So need to take out the oil sending unit .Its in the head or the block, ,just unscrew it out from the motor and crank the motor to see if oil shoots out the hole. And doing that may flush out the partical that could have been cloging it ,so the oil couldn't reach the oil sender unit correctlly..4. remove radiator cap and put a water tempenture thermometer in the radiator cap hole into the anti freeze, if can't reach anti freeze there , find a different place to let the thermometer touch the anti freeze like in one of the hoses or etc, So it will give you a reading. Start the motor and let it get to normal running temperture which is aporox 180 to 190 degrees for most motors, So if your thermometer reads correct then your dash gauge should not read hot. If it does your tempeture sending unit may be bad. So you need to do these test first because you can have sluge under your valve cover and your engine can still be fine and run ok with sluge. So just by removing valve cover and looking for sluge and cleaning the sluge.I don't think is going to solve the problem. If you had sluge I think you would have notice odd things happening with your motor and performence of your motor for quite a while not just it happening after you pick up your car from a repair shop. Pulling the valve cover and looking for sluge is just playing a guessing game, Do the test I mentioned and more testing from a good mechanic that knows what tests should be done, so you know the motor has proper readings and results. So your not playing a guessing game and know what needs done to solve this problem. Mechanic from Ohio.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,975
    Alex, I believe his car has the OBD-II diagnostic system, so disconnecting the battery won't reset his check engine light. He'll need the scanner to do that.

    I do agree with you though, that the repair shop's explanation doesn't sound right.

    Why do you think removing the valve cover is a guessing game? I mean, if you want to see sludge, what better place to find it?

    Actually I suggested removing the valve cover in order to challenge the diagnose of the repair shop. So let's put it this way---if there's no sludge in the valve cover, there still could be some in the oil pan (and how would the repair shop know that?) And if there IS sludge in the valve cover, than you know for sure there is sludge in the rest of the engine.

    So, given the "verdict" that his engine was no good, I think removing the valve cover will either verify the repair shop's diagnosis, or put them on the spot to do some explaining.

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  • alex24alex24 Posts: 54
    I have a 98 corolla and deconnecting the positive battery cable for a few minutes, on my 98 corolla , works good to reset the engine light when it has come on, I have done this many times, and it works, And my engine light is no longer on, And I ask why at summit racing and was told when desconnecting the battery it makes the car computer reset the engine light, Sorry i sound harsh, but alot of toyota motors have sludge on the inside of valve cover and still run good like that, So if you remove the valve cover and see some sludge, I would call that more of a guess, because many motors that have sludge are still running ok with no problem, I have a 1993 camry with 270000 miles on it and it has sludge under the valve cover, And is still running I would say excellent. Yes it could be the sludge with his motor, but if it was I do not think it would have showed up after picking his car up from a repair shop, I think if it was sludge then his motor would have been acting odd for a while, and He even said he changed his oil regulerly so he should not have had much sludge. So why I still think its a guess about it could be the sludge if you see it under the valve cover, He said his oil light was on so he needs to have a oil pressure test first to make sure he has proper oil pressure. The End.
  • alex24alex24 Posts: 54
    Also if his motor was not having proper oil pressure than that will make the motor run hotter because of low oil pressure, and he said his temperture gauge was higher than normal, So it makes sence to do oil pressure check first before pulling the valve cover to check for sludge.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,975
    yes, thanks for the advice.

    Well that's why I posted the photo so he knows the difference between some dirty oil and real sludge. If his engine looks like that photo, that engine is done for IMO. I agree, I didn't want him to get fooled by just looking at a dirty valve cover.

    You can sometimes reset the engine light on an OBD-II car if you can drain the capacitor completely from the Stay Alive Memory module. (one trick is to hold down the horn button after you disconnect the battery). Otherwise, just disconnecting the battery and re-connecting it usually will not work on an OBD-II car.

    In any event, it's not a good idea to do this on an OBD-II car. For a mechanically minded guy like you, you can deal with the effects, but most people could end up making things worse for themselves.

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  • Thank you mr. Alex 24 and Mr. Shiftright for your excellent responses. I am clearly impressed with your knowledge and willingness to help. I do recall the mechanic telling me that he did a pressure test and it was not good (Don't remember whether he said that there low pressure or high pressure but it was a concern)
    Yesterday I asked the dealer to take the oil pan out and clean the sludge (if any). Today i went to pick up the car and the mechanic had already left so I could not talk to him. However the service person told me that he cleaned out the sludge from the pan and the screen. He changed the oil and the oil filter then he took the car for a test drive and the oil light did not turn on. This is all I got from the service guy, of course its a second hand. This all sounded very nice to me. But i am going to talk to the mechanic and get all the details tomorrow. I did not pick up the car because I want to discuss the benefit of taking off the valve cover and look for the sludge.
    Being a lay person I am not sure (after reading all the posts from you both) whether I should have the valve cover removed or not. Or drive the car and see if and when the light comes on again.
    Thanks a lot for all your help.
  • Alex 24 and Mr. Shiftright
    I have done some searching on the net and came up with the following websites.
    I hope you all take some time to read the Toyota sludge website below.

    1)Center for Auto Safety - Oil Sludge http://www.autosafety.org/getcat.php?cid=28
    2)Dodge Durango sludge http://www.consumeraffairs.com/automotive/dodge_dur_oil.html
    3)Volkswagen sludge http://www.consumeraffairs.com/automotive/vw_sludge.html
    4)Lexus sludge http://www.consumeraffairs.com/automotive/lexus.html
    Hyundai sludge http://www.consumeraffairs.com/automotive/hyundai_sludge.html
    5) Toyota sludge http://www.consumeraffairs.com/automotive/toyota_engine.html

    The Toyota sludge website has numerous stories of Toyota vehicles having same situation as I had with my above ref. 1998 Corolla. They all have similar tales about oil light coming on and little or no oil in on the dip stick and subsequently the dealer telling them that the engine needs overhauling due to sludge.
    It seems that this is not uncommon for Toyota vehicles. My car being 14 years old had his problem so late in its life. The other anecdotes are with newer Toyota vehicles. I am sure my 14 year old car will not have any warranty claims.
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