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Toyota Corolla Maintenance and Repair



  • there is a sevice bulletin out to fix that problem. toyota replaces the defective parts
  • :mad: I have the same problem with my 1993 Corolla. MY mechanic suggested the EGR system, but a coworker (who is responsible for the company vehicles) said he thinks it is the catalytic converter. The EGR supposedly isn't supposed to kick in at idle (according to research online) so I am even further confused. Even my repair manual is filled with misleading information. If you have had any luck solving this problem, let me know. My husband and I are probably going to try to sell our Corolla as we are getting tired of the ever mounting repairs, but we want to get the inspection done before we do so. If you haven't heard anything yet or had the problem solved, let me know as well, maybe we can find a solution together (I also live in Texas and have been sharing one vehicle for the last few months which has become taxing).
  • does anyone know how to fold the rear seats of a 99' corolla ve.
  • I had the same problem with my 1991 Corolla. I posted the problem on here and no one came up with the answer. My Corolla doesn't even have an EGR valve and the solution to the problem isn't even listed in the possible causes for this problem in the emissions failure guide that the emissions test stations provide, which is really quite unbelievable. After testing every emission control device on the car and replacing the converter, the problem was a very small (2mm) hole in the front exhaust pipe. (the one that connects between the exhaust manifold and converter)The hole was hidden under the heat shield that protects the CV joint boot from heat and I couldn't even hear the small leak. At low rpms, the flow of exhaust would draw in oxygen and the oxygen entering the converter would stop the breakdown of NOx. So, check for an exhaust leak in that pipe or a loose manifold to exhaust pipe connection or a loose exhaust pipe to converter connection. I think if it was the converter, it would fail the test at all speeds. and by the way... no "check engine" light or error codes will come up with this type of problem on a '93.
  • This 98 Corolla had a problem with the electrical near the lights relay. This was repaired by Toyota. A month later this problem started. The lights wont go off after the key is removed. If you can get them to go off after repeated tries, they can come back on at any time. I thought there was a tech bulletin on this problem somewhere, about the light relay? Anyone have the scoop on this?
  • dadof6dadof6 Posts: 61
    I don't think the VE came with fold down rear seats.
  • bhasinbhasin Posts: 11
    I have a 2002 Corolla with 80,000 miles. Replaced the OEM 175 tires (Firestone) at 48,000 miles with 185 (Firestone Potenza) tires.

    The tires are getting worn very fast with only 32k ,miles as opposed to the 65k mile life. My front left tire gets most worn.

    I do get tire rotated at costco per schedule.

    Does Corolla eat tires a lot ?
    What could be the reason:
    Bad alignment?
    Bad suspension?

    What is a good quiet tire model for the corolla? The bridgestones are horrible (maybe its the bad sound insulation in corolla..) and have lot of highway tire noise after 70 mph.

    Costco manager said he might give pro-rated discount the Michelin Mx4 they are currently carrying..How good is that?
  • Hello,

    Im new to these forums, but I tried searching and coudn't find anything about my problem... Also Im a noob when it comes to repairing cars...

    When I go to try to cold start my corolla, It turns over a good 5-10 times and then fires for about half a second and dies at which point the alarm is activated (but without the horn going off) (There is also a strange clicking noise as the engine light blinks on and off)... I have to then click the unlock button on my keychain before trying to start it again b/c it wont turn over... and if I take the keys out the alarm goes off fully.

    I showed my dad who suggested battery issues, but it wouldn't make sense

    After about 2-3 cycles of this the car finally turns over and starts... runs normal once started... Also, it only turns over 2-3 times if the car has run within the last 30 minutes and the engine is hot... it might repeat the cycle 0-3 times.

    Other strange occurrences:
    > I have an aftermarket stereo that has since begun asking me to enter the security code once the car has started... Didn't start happening till this issue came up... And it only happens ~75% of the time.

    Thanks in advance,
  • user777user777 Posts: 3,341
    i would take the vehicle to an autozone or other car parts store that can place your vehicle's battery and alternator under a load-test to see if both are working properly to rule them out.

    see, it's possible your alarm and also radio are getting into an initialized state because the voltage is dropping very low, below some threshold when you are trying to start the car.

    is it very cold where you live? do you run only short distances with the car lately? (vehicles need to be driven some distance at speed for the alternators to re-charge the battery).

    if the alternator of the battery were marginal, it's possible when the starter is engaged, it's pulling too much current and causing the system to drop voltage very low.

    then again, perhaps you have some issue with the fuel pump failing to supply adequate pressure to the fuel rail.

    have you tried turning your vehicle to the on/acc position for a few seconds, say the count of 5 or 10 before you turn it all the way to start? that might give the pump a better chance to prime the system and get pressure to the fuel rail.

    good luck.
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaPosts: 12,687
    it could just be that you have a short from the installation of either the alarm or the radio. Sometimes those take a little time after installation before problems begin to manifest themselves.

    bhasin: I don't believe that Bridgestone Potenzas are 65K-mile tires, and I wouldn't be surprised if their average life is more like 40K miles, so you are probably doing about as expected with that brand. They are noisy tires though. If the tires are not wearing evenly, that is usually an alignment issue (they ARE all the same size though, right?)

    The Michelin is a good tire but even with a discount may cost you more than the Bridgestones cost new. I would stay with the Bridgestones until they are worn out. And I am curious why the Costco manager is so eager to offer you discounts on Michelins. There may be something fishy there...

    2013 Civic SI, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (stick)

  • user777user777 Posts: 3,341
    it could just be that you have a short from the installation of either the alarm or the radio. Sometimes those take a little time after installation before problems begin to manifest themselves.

    very good point. poor wiring, causing one or the other to short out could be at root cause. even if fused, it could still be causing a short. were these recently added to the vehicle?
  • Both my wife and I have a 2007 Corolla S. Mine is a Manual, and hers is an Automatic. We have a similar noise when starting off. The dealership told me it was the solenoid, but I don't buy that. Does anybody know what could possibly be going wrong, as it doesn't sound good for the car.

  • grandtotalgrandtotal Posts: 1,207
    The dealership told me it was the solenoid, but I don't buy that.

    The dealership whose staff work on Corollas all day long tell you that the noise is the solenoid, but you don't believe that. Instead you come to a forum such as this and are prepared to accept a total stranger's opinion.

    Well here's my opinion from your description. I think you both need new engines.
  • mcdawggmcdawgg Posts: 1,667
    If you have ABS, it is the normal test that the system goes through. You could be a little more specific and tell us what solenoid, if you asked the dealer.
  • I have the same problem. around 5k miles it started. when cold i pull out of space a ping or squel. only the begining of the day only. strange. did you find the problem. the dealer said it was my cold belts. i dont think so. i also park in a garage and it is warm in there.
  • Sppanki, we have the same problem.... the idle problem occurs when the engine already heat-up... did you fixed the problem? can you give me an advise on how did you fixed it? thanks!
    Other members if someone got an idea.. please advise. :sick:
  • alex24alex24 Posts: 54
    My 98 corolla 4 cyl, with 3 speed automatic transmission,this car ran perfect and had no oil leaks, has under 100000 miles, as I was driving on the highway a loud engine noise, I pulled over, as I did some testing I found my number one piston or piston rod is broke and put a small hole in side of block, and out where all the oil was gone, what could have cause this ? Has any body had a major problem like this with this engine ?
  • 10sfan10sfan Posts: 136
    Had similar problem on 12/25/06,on a 2001. Had just checked the oil 40 miles prior to the incident. At 83,000 miles, the engine went, piston rod broke on the highway. The oil pan was filled. Have had excessive oil consumption and also would it not keep oil pan or valve cover gaskets which were replaced several times in past 12 months. Replaced the engine with a used one. Not sure if it will develop a similar problem. Numerous bearing were found in the bottom of the pan as well as other major damage when the engine was removed. I had posted the information on the excessive oil consumption earlier in 2006 to see if others had similar problems. Unfortunately, the vehicle was purchased used with 53K on it. Toyota would not offer any support whatsoever...
  • Both the passagener seat doors on my 91' are messed up. on the drivers side, the window either sliped off the track or something to that meaning because the window roller wont make it move. also, when i move the window roller clockwise, it locks up, and if i move it counterclock wise, it clicks. Also, how do i take off the window roller on a 91', because i tried to take everything off but was unscuessful in taking it off. as for the passagener side door, when you open the door handle from the inside, it stays open, as if there was something wrong with the spring. any insight on either of my problems?
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