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Toyota Corolla Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • klmlbklmlb Posts: 1
    hi wolfgar112!

    thanks for your excellent post!!!

    i've had this same issue (i have an 03 CE) and i never knew what was causing it (as the battery, starter, alternator all checked out okay). within the last week, this has happened to me 3 times. i couldn't - for the life of me - figure out the problem.... until i saw your post!

    i went to weather.com and sure enough, the 3 times it happened, the low temperture for that night was under 15 F. The other nights when it didn't happen, the low was above.

    i dropped the car off at my dealership this afternoon and the guys there thought i was crazy because i said, "the lights were on and drained my battery, but the switch control inside the car was set to off."

    i'll let them know what you posted to expedite the repairs.

    i'm so glad you posted the part numbers as well. very much appreciated.

    YOU DA MAN!!!!

    Best Regards
  • the same exact thing is happening to me with my 2002 toyota corolla. i found out that along the trunk door are wires and the plastic that is encased around the wires have worn out and exposed the wires..the wires may have rubbed against something and the wiring is spliced...in turn my reverse lights dont work...and now my car will not start...the light use to go off and on when i closed the trunk door....its annoying...toyota used plastic to encase the wires and the wires are attached to the trunk when i open the trunk the wires rub against the trunk door...i can only imagine how much that will cost me to fix!!!!
  • its 18 degrees in white plains,n.y. and i did not drive my car in 2 weeks and now it will not start do you think the oil is frozen, i tried to give it a jump start boost and that will not start from the jump start either...what shall i do..should i change the battery...i cant drive my car will it will not move do you think i could change the battery all by myself..is it easy to do????...could it be a battery problem???
  • You mean it doesn't "crank" (the engine won't turn over--it just sits there) or that it cranks and cranks but won't actually run?

    If the starter motor won't spin the engine over at all, the battery is a good bet. Oil doesn't "freeze" but it can get thick enough to strain an old battery.

    If the engine turns over very slowly but doesn't start, the battery could be weak. It should start with a jump.

    If the engine cranks and cranks and the engine won't fire up, then it's not a battery problem but an ignition or fuel problem.
  • dadof6dadof6 Posts: 61
    There is a viscious coupler in the transaxle assembly that prevents the lurching problem under normal conditions. The fluid in the couple wears out with time which causes the lurch problem. Although it sounds/feels nasty when it happens it can be driven this way for thousands & thousands of miles. The repair is not cost effective on a 16 yr old car with 170k miles on it. It is also important that all 4 tires are an EXACT match for brand,model & size as unmatched tires just make the lurch more noticeable.
  • thank you ..actually the engine cranks and cranks and the engine wont fire, so my problem is the ignition or fuel problem.
  • If you had an experienced person who knows where to squirt it (not on certain sensors in the intake system), some starting fluid would tell you if fuel's a problem--with a squirt of starting fluid, if it kicked right off, you'd know your engine wasn't getting fuel.

    Ignition problems or a lack of current to the injectors is more difficult to diagnose by yourself and requires a mechanic to check that out.

    If your problem is on again, off again, that makes it harder to figure out, certainly.

    Now....if the car will start with a boost....then it's possible that your battery is too weak to give the engine a good spin....a lazy battery won't turn the engine fast enough for a start in very severe cold.
  • I have a 99 CE. Back seats fold down 3/4 of the way. You need to open the trunk and look in just below the rear deck. There you will see on both sides handles, pull left handle for that to come down, right side pull that handle. One also must clear[move to the side]the safety belts so seats will come down
  • Thank you i fixed it, i needed to change a fuse and i gave the car a boost, initially i was using a portable mini jumper booster and purchased a larger portable jumper.. i thought all jumpers were the same. i guess not.. the bigger the more power...
  • Also never use cheap-o jumper cables...they can't carry enough current to the dead battery and they will start to burn up if you keep trying.
  • ajvajv Posts: 8
    Did you figure out how you can get the 100A fuse out? I am in the same boat. I opened the fuse box and tried to get from underneath in vain. The whole section of those 3 fuses are kind off in a plastic enclosure. I don't want to break it to get to the fuse.I think there has to be a wy to get it out, I am lost for now.. I will try again tomorrow.

    Any suggestions or advice are welcome. Thanks in advance. :sick:
  • I have a 2001 Corolla CE with a 3 speed automatic transmission with torque lock up driven 52K miles. I have problems with the transmission shifting from first to second gear. The problem occurs if I accelerate a particular way (not being aggressive). I have kept up maintenance by having 2 complete flushes (at the Toyota dealership) and 1 service dropping the pan (changing out 4 - 5 quarts) at an independent mechanic I have used for years. Therefore I have changed the fluid on average ~ 20K miles. According to my mechanic, there was no abnormal wear. The transmission fluid has always remained pink with no burnt smell. I am leery about taking it anywhere anticipating the response, "you need a rebuilt unit". Are there any suggestions on what maybe causing this? Thank you.
  • Check your Toyota owner's manual. My 2001 manual states that the fluid type to use for the automatic transmission is "Automatic transmission fluid D-II or DEXRON III (DEXRON II)." Per mdawgg in another posting, it is suggested to use the ATF from the dealership. I would like to know if there is some verification from Toyota Motor Corporation if this is the case because at my last service, Dexron III was used. Also per Popular Mechanics, it was suggested to flush the transmission because it removes the fluid that is trapped in the torque converter. This is because the fluid can breakdown into a varnish like substance. Also Click and Clack, the tappet brothers on NPR's 'Car Talk' also recommend flushes over simply dropping the pan. So I have been having my transmissions flushed at the dealership. If there is a authoritative automotive stating otherwise, please reply. Thanks!
  • Dadof6 and Micomark,

    I have a brand new 2007 Corolla CE that is exhibiting this seat noise at approx ~1500 miles. The seat makes a popping noise on acceleration/deceleration and when the seat back is moved back and forth. The noise is extremely annoying and poses as a safety concern. I feel that the seat will give in the event of an accident causing more injury/harm to the passenger. I have had the car for 2 months now. I brought it to Longo Toyota (El Monte, California) twice for 2 determinations for the seat problem. The first time, the technician didn't diagnose the problem correctly. The second time the service department threw the problem over the fence for Toyota Corporate to deal with. They let the District Service and Parts Manager (DSPM) evaluate the problem. The Toyota DSPM determined he was able to duplicate the same noise in the seat I have encountered and is deeming this condition as NORMAL as compared with LIKE models. Furthermore, the DSPM added that the seat is operating as DESIGNED. Hence, the Dealership and the DSPM will not do anything to alleviate the seat problem. I will most likely submit a claim to the California Dispute Service for arbitration. Please acknowledge if anyone has encountered such a hassle.
  • dadof6dadof6 Posts: 61
    If this is a normal condition the DSPM & SM should be able to show you other cars on the lot with the same noise.
    Your next step--tell them to show you that it's normal by showing you it exists in other vehicles just like yours.
    When I had mine done there was nothing visibly wrong with the seat frame but it cured the problem for about 10,000 miles.
  • Apparently there is no technical service bulletin to document this problem. I think that if we pursue this further then Toyota "may" look into the problem. I feel ripped off becuase I purchased a new car to avoid such problems! I am speaking to the DSPM today and will let you know. Thanks for the prompt reponse.
  • Dadof6,
    After you had the frame replaced, was the noise any different? My observation is that the noise is coming from a loose height adjustment lever. If you are exhibiting it too then it's a poor design or a flaw in the assembly chain. What else have you done to resolve seat the problem?
  • To all Toyota Corolla owners with a vehicle still under warranty (2004-2007),

    I just spoke with the DSPM (district service and parts manager in the El Monte, Ca district) from Toyota. He compared my new vehicle to other Corollas. According to him, the seat is operating under the tolerances/variances of the design and henceforth, the seat is not warrantable. Furthermore he said that the same noise was found even in Camry's. I am totally unhappy with the quality of my Toyota. I will be submitting a claim to the National Center for Dispute Settlement and California Dispute Settlement. I urge you all to call the Toyota Customer Experience Center at (800)331-4331 and report your seat problems. I am real worried about the safety risks involved with a loose seat that Toyota refuses to repair.
  • dadof6dadof6 Posts: 61
    Did the DSPM duplicate your noise,while you were with him, in the other cars he compared too yours? This is the only way Toyota can claim it to be a normal noise. Keep in mind that the DSPM is a business degree not a technical degree position in Toyota. Hopefully an FTS (Field Tech Specialist) will be sent to inspect your noise. IMHO the noise is not a safety issue just annoying as all get-out. I lived with my noisey seat until I traded the car recently at 2yrs & 55,000 mile. BTW I advised our FTS of the noise his response being they hadn't seen that before.
  • I never even met with the DSPM. He claimed that he had 2 other people with him at the time of the inspection (a technical specialist and the shop foreman). He refused to show me the car in person. It seems as though after the DSPM has inspected the car, his decision is the final verdict - there is practically no negotiation. What would be the best course of action to proceed? I realize that there is a design flaw in the seat but if it occurred down the line at 20K miles I would be alot happier than now when the problem occurred at 1500 miles.
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