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Toyota Corolla Maintenance and Repair



  • terceltomterceltom Posts: 1,017
    Wow what a difference! A few days after using the Petro A/C cleaner the odor is all gone. This is the two can system most dealers use and can be purchased from them for around $15.00. Note: you will have to get under the passenger side of the car to attach the provided hose to the A/C drain. Well worth the money.
  • terceltomterceltom Posts: 1,017
    For the 2009/2010 floor mat recall, new front mats are replaced only if you already have the optional all weather mats now. They will trim the front of the gas pedal, trim tibia pad under carpet, and add 2 by 5 inch tape over tibia pad. They will then reshape the carpet were pad was trimmed. This work is scheduled for 1.2 hrs.
  • Hi! I'm new to this forum and don't know a lot about cars, but I'm hoping someone can help. I recently had the tires aligned on my 2005 corolla. After doing so i started hearing/noticing a clicking sound from the driver's side tire/wheel-well when i am making right hand turns. it sounds like running a stick over bike spokes. i took it back to the place where we got it aligned and they said that they thought it was just a nail in the tire, but it might be in the CV joint but since it is sealed they couldn't tell for sure. they also said the only reason i hear it when i turn right is because there is an echo that i'm hearing at that time, but not the others. that explanation does not make sense to me because when i am sitting in an open area i can hear it on right hand turns and as soon as i straighten up the wheels it goes away. the car has an extended warranty from toyota, but that has been totally useless up to this point and i really don't want to pay $80 for a diagnostic fee for them to tell me it's not covered under warranty. any ideas on what it might be or how to trouble shoot the issue? any thoughts are appreciated. :confuse: Thanks!!!!
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,413
    While it is true that a bad CV joint will make noise on hard turns, it would be the LEFT CV joint making noise on hard right turns, and vice-versa. So to say that the right CV joint is bad because it makes noise when making right turns, is probably a faulty diagnosis.

    It is true that you can't really tell if a CV joint is bad unless you perform the above test or you disassemble it. You can't tell from looking at it or wiggling it around.

    So yeah, you could have a bad LEFT CV joint.


  • Would that be something that normally goes bad after only 42K miles? Or is it possible that they messed something up when they did the alignment? I'm not 100% certain that it wasn't there prior to that, but it was after that when I started noticing the sound.

    Just so I'm clear, the LEFT CV joint is the driver's side, correct? I wasn't sure if you meant left from the driver's seat or the left from facing the car. Thanks so much for your reply!!!!
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,413
    That's correct. Left is the driver's side. It would be unusual for a CV joint to fail at 42K miles but if the boot that protects it were ripped and the grease leaked out, then certainly possible.


  • Thanks for your help! Is it possible that it could be anything else? I want to have all of my bases covered when I call the repair shop and ask what it will take to fix it.

    Thanks again!
  • alex24alex24 Posts: 54
    My corolla made the same noise and it was the sway bar link, you can hear it more over bumby road, The sway bar link is approx 6 inch long and is worn out, which causes it to make a click noise, I bought a lifetime warranty one at Advance Auto Parts for $38. , put in on and no more noise.
  • crisrockcrisrock Posts: 1
    My 2006 pings very briefly on acceleration. It does it more when the air is on.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,413
    A brief ping is really okay, it might just mean your gasoline isn't quite up to snuff. You could switch to mid-grade and see what happens.

    If the pinging to very loud or prolonged, you shouldn't drive the car too long that way, and should have it scanned for trouble codes.

    Also, in addition to timing problems, high carbon content in the cylinder/head area can cause pinging, so if you take lots of short trips, you might consider taking the car out for a long high speed run and using a gas tank additive.


  • jimbo92jimbo92 Posts: 20
    after that he realized his mistake and added gas,on his way to work 2005 corolla kept jerking and died.He got it towed to his home where his friend said he needs a new injection pump.Anybody know what his remedies are,thanks.
  • alex24alex24 Posts: 54
    You need to flush out all your fuel lines and your injector fuel tube lines and gas tank, should replace fuel filter, and that should do it.
  • jimbo92jimbo92 Posts: 20
    thanks alex24,will pass this information to him,hope he listens.thanks again.
  • hoopitup2000hoopitup2000 Posts: 46
    edited August 2010
    I have been hearing a cricket like sound from the engine on my '05 Corolla for over 2 years now when rainy / damp conditions exist. It can be loud enough to hear going down the highway with the windows up at times, but a day or 2 later, not even the slightest noise once the humidity drops back. Should I be concerned?

  • terceltomterceltom Posts: 1,017
    edited August 2010
    Yeah, that's the tensioner. Corollas are notoriously known for these bad tensioners. As long as it doesn't seize up and you can put up with the little crickets your fine.
  • Thanks Tom,

    If I decide to replace it, should I insist on OEM? Unless the original design has been improved, I can't see putting in another Toyota one. The dealer wants around $300-$400.00.(Ouch)
  • grandtotalgrandtotal Posts: 1,207
    Ask Toyota to participate in the cost of the repair. Toyota paid 1/3, the dealer paid 1/3 and I paid 1/3. My car is older than yours, I had the repair done last year.
  • Hi, everyone! I am the second owner of a 1995 Corolla Sedan that now has almost 167K miles on her. I am wondering what really needs to be done to maintain this car well so it will give me 250+K miles. Cannot afford a new car on unemployment! At oil changes, most have recommended an engine flush, but I bought it having 105K miles on her and won't do it because I do not believe original owner did regular flushes. I have a small oil leak that is under control with some additive, but otherwise she seems to be in excellent condition. I bought her 4 years ago. Besides regular oil&filter changes, I have only had the transmission flushed. (This caused a strong vibration in the steering wheel until it was done twice more - at no cost, ending up using the most expensive fluid they had to correct this.) I also replaced the radiator, the rear brake assembly (when brakes failed - exciting!), and all the belts - including serpentine and tension pulley, plus the catalytic converter. At the last oil change, I was told by this new mechanic that my brake fluid needs changing and that it should be done every 2 years. If that is the case, I am long overdue! How often should I change the brake fluid if I do mostly highway driving and what schedule should I follow for other regular maintenance on a car this age? Thank you!
  • terricterric Posts: 1
    A while back our 05 Corolla began to idle rough, then a week or so ago it started knocking, We have an appt with a non dealership shop that specializes in Toyotas this week but this morning when we started it, it began to smoke. We left it home. Our question is, expecting the worse and we'll need to replace the motor, does anyone know what to expect. We're thinking used motor or rebuilt would be available and even knew of a time when cars in Japan could only have a certain # of miles on the engine before they were replaced. Maybe that is just a rumor but ??? Would love to know anyones experience and cost of replacing a motor in a Corolla. thanks in advance.
  • coreyg1coreyg1 Posts: 34
    I just purchased a 2001 corolla. The check engine light is on codes p0441, p0442, p0446. shop performed smoke test on the evap system. Came back with $$$ quote to replace charcoal canister and associated valves. Purchased a vsv from auto parts store last night. looks like the vsv that is located under the hood and not the one on the charcoal canister. I want to replace the vsv/purge valve that is located on the charcoal canister. Can I buy JUST the vsv that is on the canister somewhere? The stealership wants $300+ for the charcoal canister. According to them I cant get the vsv / purge valve by itself!! Thanks for the info in advance.
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