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Toyota Corolla Maintenance and Repair



  • coreyg1coreyg1 Posts: 34
    the vsv (911-601) that i picked up was listed as "at charcoal canister" i looked a bit at the dorman site. vsv(911-602, 911-603) the inputs/outputs are on the same side just like the one on my 2001 toyota corolla. Any idea if any one of these parts will be compatible? Can I reroute the hose to for the 911-601, or will the others work even thought they are not listed as compatible with my corolla? I am new to these cars, and am looking for the best, most inexpensive solution. thanks
  • Do you have a pic of the old one you can post.
  • coreyg1coreyg1 Posts: 34
    edited August 2010
    it looks very similar to part # 911-603( vaccum inputs on same side) the part i picked up #911-601( has inputs on opposing sides). photos are on"

    i did take some photos but i dont think they will help the cause. i am curious if i could use part # 911-603, even thought it does not show that it fits my 01 corolla. or can i somehow rig/route the vaccum hose to fit 911-601.

    i guess another option would be to try and track down a used part from a salvage yard, but that just might end up be a waste of time.
  • rfhjrrfhjr Posts: 1
    I have a 2002 Toyota Corolla CE automatic. When starting the car after it has set for 8 - 9 hours sometimes the ignition makes a clicking noise. After three of four attempts the car starts. When I stop for just a short period of time I never have this problem.

    I checked the battery and its connections and they are okay. I was thinking the next thing to check wold be the copper connections in the starter solenoid would this be the next logical step to take. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,420
    You might want to take the cables OFF the battery and clean them, and the battery terminals, thoroughly, with a wire brush, and also check the cable itself for corrsion at BOTH ends, as well as under the insulation as it meets the connector.

    The clicking means the relay (solenoid) is not getting enough voltage, so there is a drop somewhere.


  • I am getting ready to purchase a 2005 Corolla LE with 68,000 miles. The only known issue is the airbag warning light stays on. The car is in excellent condition and carfax record is clean with no accident reported. What would cause the warning light to come on and is this something I need to worry about? Would it be costly to diagnose and fix?

  • unless it is fixed before you buy it, don't buy it. It will be nothing but a headache. Find another car, it is not worth it. I had a light that would not go out and it was $$$$ and it was never fixed.
  • terceltomterceltom Posts: 1,017
    I don't think a little dashboard light on, would stop me from buying the car. However, I would get the car checked first just to be sure the airbags are still functioning correctly. The warning light is sometimes independant of the airbags themselves. It could be something as simple as a a blown fuse. I have a "94" Voyager who's airbag light comes on occasionally and it's always just a matter of the fuse replacement. Turns out that my rear wiper is on with the airbag light and the rear wiper blows the fuse.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,420
    edited September 2010
    I wouldn't buy it until it was fixed. Obviously, the current owner got some bad news already or would have repaired such an obvious deterrent to a sale---I mean, do you *really* want to roll the dice as to whether the air bag will fire or not?

    Could be a simple sensor, could be the whole enchilada. Let's find out first.

    If you are really hot for the car, find out what a Toyota dealer charges to replace an air bag and then deduct that off the selling price. That way you're covered.

    As of now, IMO the car you are buying is a "cripple".


  • Hello I need as much help as possible I have a 2001 corolla that had a engine sludge problem and broke I replaced the engine and the torque converter and now the cars startes up fine but will drive like ten feet and thin I will lose all power to the front wheels. And some time the car wont move at all was wondering if anybody was been here befor or can tell me how to fix it. Any help would be apperciate it.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,420
    Who did the torque converter for you? Sounds like it's messed up again, sad to say, if you don't move at all. They can be put in incorrectly and also bolts holding them can come loose.


  • sretepesretepe Posts: 1
    edited October 2010
    I have a 2003 corolla that is in very good shape. Several years ago, not long after replacing the tires, the interior of the car became progressively louder at progressively faster speeds. I figured for a long time it was due to the tires since revving the car doesn't produce the same noise. However, I have just replaced the tires with Michelin X Radial DT that are highly rated expecting the noise to go away. The car is just as loud. It is particularly hard to hold a conversation with anyone in the back seat at highway speeds. Any ideas what's up? Can one increase the sound proofing of the car?
  • I have a 2009 Corolla that has extremely wrinkled front seats on the sides of the cushion bottom. The passenger seat has almost the same amount of wrinkles and it has not been used more that 10 times since I purchased the car new. I was told that the process is to take to upholstery shop the dealer works with, they examine and a warranty repair is done. I took the car myself to the shop that the dealer uses and they said definitely that it is bad piece of ill fitting foam underneath and it needs to be redone.

    I went to the dealer, told them that, when they did some other work. When I picked it up the service tech said that they had contacted the Toyota area service rep who would look at the car and make a decision. The impression they gave is that they, the dealer, believes that it is normal wear and tear. They are very tight lipped about it.

    My question, what do I do now, if the dealership will not support my claim? I was told by another dealer that Toyota would not. I have not met with Toyota yet as I am wary of going through another waiting at the dealership, being given the runaround when it is probably a no go.

    Any ideas? What is the next step if Toyota says no?
  • terceltomterceltom Posts: 1,017
    How about the exhaust system?
  • terceltomterceltom Posts: 1,017
    Why would it be denied? Still under warranty right? Or are you over 36,000 miles? Check your warranty book to check on coverage for this type of thing.
  • dave594dave594 Posts: 218
    Sounds like wheel bearings going bad.
  • daryll44daryll44 Posts: 306
    On Sept 11th, I leased a 2010 Corolla "S". It comes with the Toyota two year maintenance package. My question is this: I am hearing that contrary to the owner's manual, you can go 10,000 between oil changes if you use 0W-20 synthetic. What about the INITIAL oil there synthetic in there from the factory and can I go 10,000 miles? Frankly, it's a 3 year lease and I'm not concerned with how long the engine will hold up. I'd prefer to do the 10,000 change...because I am too lazy to go to the dealer every 5K!

    What's the deal?
  • I am considering changing this sensor. It looks to me like a socket will not fit over the plastic electrical connector that is in front of the spot where a socket would grab to turn the sensor to get it out. If that is correct it looks like the only possibility to remove it would be an open ended wrench, with very little room to work. Am I seeing this correctly? Any tips on getting this out?
  • terceltomterceltom Posts: 1,017
    There is synthetic in your car from the factory and you can certainly go 10,000 miles. Your engine will be fine.
  • I have a 2006 Corolla (38,000 miles) and I changed the (Pennzoil 5W-30; dino) oil every 3 ~ 4,000 miles. Reading the benefits of full synthetic oil at this forum, I am thinking about using the synthetic oil from now on. I appreciate greatly if you guys can offer me your words of wisdom.

    1. Some people mentioned that it is not a good idea to make the switch on an old car because the seals might be ruined by the finer synthetic oil. Did I already miss the boat?
    2. If I can make the switch, which grade (5W-30, 0W-20, or ??) of synthetic oil do I use? (Btw, I live in Ohio)


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