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Toyota Corolla Maintenance and Repair



  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,404
    good luck. Let us know what the estimate is.


  • windgracewindgrace Posts: 83
    I just recently bought a 2010 Corolla and I love the car. Easy to park, comfortable, great mpgs, etc. However, I have a quick question regarding the steering. I don't have a problem with the EPS (I don't think) because I don't notice a need to over-correct the steering at high speeds at all with the car. However, at speeds under 15 mpg I hear the steering wheel a lot. There's no buzzing or clicking or anything. I just hear the steering wheel whirr whenever I turn it at under those speeds. I don't hear the steering wheel moving at all in my sister's '06 Civic or my mom's '10 Legacy. Is it just the electric power steering or something?
  • mcdawggmcdawgg Posts: 1,667
    Yes, this is the electric power steering.
  • circuitsmithcircuitsmith Posts: 117
    In the traditional power steering system the pump is the only spinning component, and it's separated and some distance from the steering column and passenger compartment.
    So you won't hear it unless something is wrong.

    However the electric motor is near or on the steering rack or column.
    So it's harder to isolate the sound.
  • windgracewindgrace Posts: 83
    Thank you all for your response! I hadn't noticed it until I drove my mom and she asked what the sound was!

    I have one more question. The car has been running fine (no lights on, etc) and I've filled up the tank 3 times since I bought it...34 (75%hwy/25%city, the highway miles including 4 other adults and AC on!) and 31 the next 2 fill ups (about 90%city/10%hwy) each time. Pretty impressive!

    Buuuut, there's a buzzing coming from somewhere by the driver side window. I have rolled down the window and although the sound isn't quite as noticeable, it's still there (I don't think it's related to the window, but I'm not sure). I've tried to isolate where the buzzing is coming from, but it's really only noticeable >40mph and it's hard to look at your B pillar at that speed for any length of time! It sounds like it's either coming from the B pillar area or right above the driver's side window. Any idea what might cause this, or should I see a mechanic?
  • james2011james2011 Posts: 12
    The button on the door panel that locks/unlocks the doors, depressed all the way down into the door the last time I locked it. I barely touched it, but down it went. It is not in warranty. What can be done that does not cost $$$$$ ?

    I can still lock it with the key Fob, but not by pressing on this as it is too far down.
  • Hello again! Got another question...
    So I have a 2010 Corolla. I bought the car used as a previous rental with 9500 miles for under $15k a few months ago, which was a stellar deal at the time with used car prices being ridiculous. I don't have any lights on my dash, but I have a question about the brakes. I notice that when braking over uneven road (paved or unpaved) the brake pedal sometimes feels like it's shaking. I get the same feeling when braking suddenly. However it doesn't happen under normal braking (haven't gotten the chance to test it out on wet pavement). I took it to the dealership and they said the brakes were fine and that it is just the ABS system doing its job. Is this true? I have driven cars with ABS and I haven't felt the actual pedal vibrate before. Should I take it to a mechanic and get the drums/rotors checked out? I don't know how I feel about the Toyota dealership I bought the car from. I went back 2 weeks after I bought the car because of a rattle from the driver side seatbelt pillar (B pillar). They couldn't find the rattle. Went back again a month later and they said they found the rattle and repaired it but it's still there...
  • That is in fact the ABS system you are experiencing. Some cars are more sensitive than others. I've never experienced the ABS on my wife's 04 corolla but I do all the time in my truck. Tires and driving style can also play rolls in an overly sensitive ABS system. If they still put good years on that car ditch them as soon as you can.

    As for the dash lights have you checked to see if they got turned down? Sometimes while cleaning you can hit the knob and turn them off. My wife has done it a few times. If the adjustment knob is fine check the fuses.
  • terceltomterceltom Posts: 1,017
    I think they mean no dash warning lights for the braking system.
  • I meant that I didn't have any lights on my dash to indicate that I had a problem with anything electrical (tire pressure, abs system, etc). The car has about 12,200 miles on it now, and I've already been looking at replacement tires for my car because yes, it's currently equipped with goodyears. I looked up reviews for these OE tires and they are absolutely horrible! I can't believe that they waste material making such crap tires...I also can't believe that Toyota could spend an additional like $40-80 and get 4 tires that are actually decent. I still have a bit of treadwear left on these tires, so there's no need to replace them yet. Otherwise I'm going with Kumho, Yokohama or I read some awesome reviews of a Hankook tire on tirerack as well. Michelins and decent Bridgestones are much more expensive....
  • did you find out the problem..have a 1993 corolla also. when step on gas no pwer. email with answer if you hvae
  • Yeah unfortunately I was reading it really fast on my phone and replying on the phone as well. I also need to make a correction the reason I've never felt the ABS on my wife's Corolla is because it's not present on her '04. However, with my Acura I've never experienced the ABS modulation even when I drive it hard.
  • Yes unfortunately I misread your post. I absolutely hate Goodyear tires. From my observation most entry-mid level cars have crappy tires. I personally prefer Falken tires as a good inexpensive tire. We've been through a few sets on the Wife's corolla as I tend to change tires prematurely. Right now we have a set of Costco Michelin tires on it. If you get a rebate with them they're not too expensive. I also like Bridgestone (not the RE92's though), Pirelli and Yokohama's. I've never owned a set of Hankook but heard decent things about them and I absolutely hate Khumo tires. When was around you could get Falken tires for cheap. Now it seems like VulcanTire has the best prices and you can get the ZE-912's for $65 a tire.
  • I have had a belt and tensioner replaced on my 2007 corolla. There are rattling noises (sometimes loud) under the hood. The air box vibrates profusely. No one can pinpoint the problem. This noise happens when the car is in drive position and idle (traffic light, stop sign, etc.) When in park, no noise.

    Can someone help me with this problem? Is the engine bad? I have had 2 computers replaced on this car.


  • circuitsmithcircuitsmith Posts: 117
    edited September 2011
    Could be a bad or loose motor mount.
  • mcdawggmcdawgg Posts: 1,667
    edited September 2011
    Agree on the loose or bad mount, especially because they would have removed the mount on the passenger side while they put on the new belt.
  • My 1997 RAV4 makes the same noise on the passenger side and I had the tensioner belt changed in Feb. I mentioned it to the mechanic and they do not seem to hear it but it also does it when idling and occasionally when I am driving on the highway. It was very loud this last time. How does this get fixed? Or better said, as a woman, how do I tell the mechanic what the noise is?

    And while I am on the subject of being a woman dealing with mechanics (something I have writen about before and changed mechanics because of it), this new mechanic appears to have also taken me . I took the car in because of a leaking O ring that was not fixed by the previous mechanic. The car was also making a noise that they decided was my timing belt and that I needed a new one and a water pump. I told them that it had been changed in 2008 and was warranteed by Napa. They did not do business with Napa but I did not want to pay for another belt, etc. so I contacted Napa myself. (I used to pick up parts for my former mechanic a cousin who passed away and I knew everyone there). Cousin's death is why I have had to fine a new mechanic. Anyway, I was told not to pick up the parts as they would not know what it was till they took the car apart. You are going to love this! When I went to pick it up, they said they replaced the whole kit -belt, tensioner and waterpump to which I responded that I hoped that they had gotten the Napa parts because I did not feel that I should have to pay for them. Oh, says the mechanic, I was wrong. It was the problem, only the tensioner and proceeded to change the bill which still came out to $700, This mechanic was recommended by friends and a lawyer that I am associated with, Drove the car home and lo and behold, bad noise again and leak in driveway. Take it back. Examined again and showed the leak -- power steering fluid leaking -- another big bill. New noise --power steering makes noise when I start car until it wams up. Noise gets worse. Back to repair shop. Change power steering belt because it must have gotten oil on it when they "fixed the O ring". Guess what? Still leaking in my driveway and I have not gone back to him!!!
    In the middle of all of this, the muffler falls off. Also under warrantee so I ask Napa who I can take the car to and they recommend a kid who used to work for my cousin. I pay the labor charge, he turns in muffler and gets paid. It was a pleasant experience but the car is old and I am trying to hold on to it for awhile because I really love the car and can't afford a new one.

    So here I am with a car that still has the original noise and leak and I no longer know who to trust. How does a woman find a trustworthy mechanic and do any exist?

    I know the simplest thing to do would be to buy a new car if I could afford it but then it will start all over. I want to continue with the kid who fixed the muffler but I know he is not happy that he got involved in the muffler warrantee deal but why are things "warranteed" if you can't follow through on it?

    Sorry for the long post but I am sure you can appreciate my frustration. In the meantime, how do I tell the new kid that the motor mount is loose? He'll never believe that I am on this website. Actually he probably will. LOL
  • Well I just found another post that I wrote back in May. #96 under Toyota RAV4 Battery and Electrical Problems. No one answered me there. I wonder if anyone will answer me on this one. LOL I'll bet if I look back further, I will find the one I wrote about mechanics pushing $499 package deals that must be done to keep car running properly -- an obvious money maker. I believe I wrote that one in 2009.
  • You sound like you know a thing or two about tires to look for! I recently bought a tread depth measure, and the tires look like they have about 6/32nd left. I live in the Sierras, so we get snow about 3-4 days a year and lots of rain. I called up the Toyota dealership and spoke to a mechanic. He explained that pretty much the ABS/Traction control systems are reacting to the poor traction from the tires. This is on dry roads (both gravel/pavement). I can't go over a pothole on my gravel road at <10 mph without my pedal shaking. I've driven a Taurus, Legacy, Civic and Rav4 over this same road dozens of times without the ABS kicking on like that. It's unnerving. I'm wondering if I should go a few thousand miles or if I should replace the OE tires sooner? I think I'm gonna get a set of Michelin X Radials from Costco. Was also looking at the Pirelli P4 Four Seasons because they'd be a bit cheaper. Why don't you like Kumho tires?
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