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Toyota Corolla Maintenance and Repair



  • dogtrainerdogtrainer Posts: 96
    Time to call in the zone rep. No dealer should ever tell you to go back to the dealer where you bought the car. All Toyota dealers are obligated to honor the warranty and they get paid by Toyota for everything they do.
  • mtyfmtyf Posts: 19
    I'm not sure if your question about the not-opening door got answered, and I'm not sure if this will help, but here goes. My friend just had some body work done on his car because of a minor accident, and as a result the rear driver's side door was really sticky opening from the outside, impossible to open from the inside. He took it back and found out it had something to do with the childproof locks on the doors, guess something got 'switched on' or clicked into place when they were fixing it. I don't know if that might have anything to do with your door problem?
  • zukhovzukhov Posts: 34
    I have noticed that the 'door open' light often stays on after having closed the hatch. Seems like you really have to slam it. Has anyone else found this to be the case? Anything I can do about it?

    Received a dealer installed alarm with the 2 factory remotes. With one of the remotes, you can press 'unlock' once for the 1 door, and it's fine. If you try the 2nd 'unclock' for all of the doors, it detects an intrusion and gives warning chirps. The other remote works fine. Guess I'll go back to the dealer for that one.
  • dogtrainerdogtrainer Posts: 96
    I've had two instances when the door open light has come on while I'm driving. In both cases, I was able to turn it off by slamming the hatch. I'm not sure if I didn't close it tightly and a susequent bump made it release, or if the switch needs adjusting. I'll watch it for a while yet.
  • sxw8615sxw8615 Posts: 1
    I have the exact same problem as you had with your corolla. I checked the car with the dealer and get the answer "no problem with seat belt". What a shame. I decided to fix it my own self. Here is the step:
    1) takle off the plastic plan covered the seat belt retractor. I suggest to peel the plastic cover near the bottom of the door of driver side. Be carefuuly. The plastic panel is fixed by plastic clips that are easily broken.
    2) Remove the U sharped small frame above seat belt retractor. This frame is fixed by three bolts.
    3) Loose two bolts that fixes the retractor. However you can't take the retractor too far away since it is connected by two groups of electrical line. One is white and the other is yellow. The white one can be separated by the yellow one probably can't be separated at least that I can't find solution to do that.
    4) Near whith group of electrical line, there is a round plastic cover. This cover has to be tight to the nearby in order to trigger the switch of retractor. If you feel interested, you can get this cover off. But I suggest to leave it alone.
    5) Use a tape to tight the plastic cover with nearby plastic stuff and make sure it won't be loose again.

    I had successfully fix the problem with my car.
    Go luck.
  • flootfloot Posts: 22
    I purchased a 2002 Corolla in October 2001. The car now has 7400 miles on it and is driven primarily in city traffic.

    I had my tires rotated (Goodyear Integrity tires) for the first time at the end of June and noticed that the tires that were on the front (now on the rear) show definite wear on the outside edges. The inside edges appear fine. Toyota recommends 30 psi for all tires; I keep them at 32 psi.

    Does this sound like an alignment problem? On a straight road, I can let go of the steering wheel and count off three seconds before the car veers to the right.

    Thanks for your help!
  • jrct9454jrct9454 Posts: 2,367
    - that's where I'd start. Generally, I like to rotate tires at shorter intervals than this, no more than 5000 miles on a front drive car.

    On our '03 Corolla, with 3500 miles, there is no discernable wear on the same brand tires [different size, of course]. The Firestones on my mother-in-law's '98 are in excellent shape at 15000 miles [same chassis as yours], but then I rotate tires on both cars at about 2500 mile intervals - easy to do with floor jacks and a torque wrench, takes less than a half hour to do all four. Her car seems to track well, and pressures have been 30-32 psi. I would indeed have a look at the alignment before the tires get chewed to pieces.
  • flootfloot Posts: 22
    According to one of the owner's manuals I have, alignment and wheel balancing are covered under warranty for 20K miles or 12 months, so I'm hoping this will be a freebie from the dealer.

    Much appreciation for the quick response.
  • Matrixchick1, Bilder, and anyone else: Not sure if some people's gauge cluster pods were making noise from different places but I finally found where my scratchy sound was coming from. Pull the gauge cluster cover straight out (feels like your going to break it but it just clips in) and you will see a piece of the plexiglass which covers the speedo. At the bottom of this piece there is a guide piece that sticks straight out. Find where this piece lines up on the backside of the cluster. You will see that there are two plastic guides on the matching point on the inside of the cluster. Using a razor blade - cut away the plastic guides on the cluster. You will find it a little difficult because the area is curved but if you remove enought of these little guides they won't touch the piece of plexiglass that covers the speedometer. Snap the cluster back in place and no more squeak. Another fix I've heard about is to completely cut off the piece that sticks out on the speedo plexiglass cover. Email me at if you have any questions about this process. Good luck!
  • mbbstimsmbbstims Posts: 16
    I bought a 2003 Corolla CE.It is the first car I have owned with AC.On a recent long trip the AC started to become weaker into the trip.After 3 or 4 hours the AC air was so warm it was ineffective so I shut it off.The unit had to stay off for a few hours before I was able to get cold air again.The outside temp.was in the mid 90s and very humid.
    Is this normal for AC to work this way? Anybody else with similar problems? Should I take it in for warranty service?

  • jrct9454jrct9454 Posts: 2,367
    No, it's most certainly not normal. Our '03 has very effective AC; assuming you didn't accidently hit the compressor switch, there is obviously something wrong. If the symptoms repeat, get it to a dealer ASAP.
  • Finally Got buzzing rattling noise from the instrument panel fixed. Called zone support and i got him to follow socal_racefan's instruction and no more noises. Thanks Alot Socal_Racefan & Footie! Owe Ya One ! Bilder i reccommend you do the same thing. Good Luck!

    Thanks Again So Much!
  • I would just like some opinions on it. When I test drove it I thought it handled well. My only concern is that I'm used to a much bigger car and I worry about the safety of a smaller car. Has anyone ever gotten into any accidents with this car? Does the car live up to it's reputation of being safe? Any opinions would be appreciated. Oh, and I am planning on getting one with ABS.
  • jrct9454jrct9454 Posts: 2,367
    ...but I'm not planning on hitting anything to find out. Since the structure is all-new, bigger, stiffer, and better in every conceivable way than its predecessor, that was enough for me. Crash test results haven't been published yet, but I'm confident this car will do as well or better than anything in this class.

    Since it has been on the road less than 6 months, it's a little early for much anecdotal evidence about crash worthiness. Size is not all there is to this question, in any case; computer-aided design tools now make this much more of a science than the black art it was in the old days.

    I've owned and enjoyed driving [with no special worries] everything from a '61 Beetle to state-of-the-art MB E and S class cars. I guess I've never equated car size with safety, per se. Seat belts are another matter - I had them installed in cars in the '60s when no one was offering them, and used shoulder harnesses before 3-point belts became common.
  • yyiyyi Posts: 1
    I just got my 2003 Corolla S last Friday. While examining the engine, I found that it was vibarating pretty obviously. The dealer showed me 2 2003 Corolla CE and they had no problem with the engine, but when they started another S, it had the same vibrating problem. I could feel the vibration mostly when I am at a stop light, although I had no problem driving at whatever speed. The dealer said that the engines of the S have no problem and CE's are a little different from S so that why their engines don't vibrate. I feel uneasy about it though, because all Corolla's have the same engines. Why would it just be S that has a vibrating engine?
    Does anyone have the same finding or a good explanation of the vibrating engine? Or it's just my dealer happened to get two crappy S?
  • jrct9454jrct9454 Posts: 2,367
    ...possibly be talking about. This engine should be butter smooth and completely unobtrusive at idle once it's warm. And it was an S that sold me on this car, notwithstanding the fact that we bought an LE, because at the time, a manual trans S was all he had available to drive.

    Could be an engine mount problem - if so, this is a new one on me - our March-built NUMMI LE is just fine.
  • terceltom1terceltom1 Posts: 150
    Can anyone with a "00" to "02" Corolla help me out with some feedback? It seems that my "01" Corolla gets wet under all four doors after rain or washing on the plastic strip that you actually step over to get in the car. This is the strip that is around 3 to 4 inches wide that extends to cover the actual car body directly under each door (when closed). It seems to me that this location is actually on the inside of the weather stripping and should not get wet but strangely enough it happens under all four doors. so I'm wondering if it is normal. Does anyone else see this happening?
  • jrct9454jrct9454 Posts: 2,367
    ...nothing to worry about. The area you describe is in fact outside the door seals that keep it from penetrating the cabin.
  • Hello fellow corolla owners,

    Took the 2003 toyota corolla in today for her first oil change. The manual states that she needs 5w30 oil. However, when I looked over the reciept for the oil change, I saw that 10w30 was used. I advised the service manager that my vehicle requires 5w30,but he reassured me that 10w30 is better for my corolla. Is he right?
  • britton2britton2 Posts: 305
    In my '01 Corolla my dealership also puts in 10W30 even though 5W30 is recommended in the manual - I haven't questioned it (yet) - just figure they know what they're doing.
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