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Toyota Corolla Maintenance and Repair

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  • checked my mileage today - got 31.3 MPG (all city driving) - I have a 2001 LE with 4-speed automatic - my sticker stated I'd get 30 MPG city and 39 MPG highway, I've had my car almost 4 years and I have gotten 30 mpg or better probably 95% of the time, just a few times I got 28 or 29 mpg - once I even got 34 mpg - very happy with my choice!
  • beernutbeernut Posts: 329
    Just for fun....., my neighbor's little bitty cute wife drives an Excursion. She gets 9.
  • grandtotalgrandtotal Posts: 1,207
    I assume your Overdrive is working. Check it by cruising at a constant speed over say 50 and clicking it on and off.

    Random621 has a 5-speed, so no overdrive button. Smile
  • beernutbeernut Posts: 329
    Oops. Your reference to the Altima confused me. I confuse easily.
  • Update - my MPG is improving as the car gets more broken in. I'm a computer guy, don't know much about cars, so here is a question some of you might find amusing, but I really don't know.

    Is it likely my driving habit of going running the car at 3000 rpm for 95% of my 1 hour commute is going to cause me more problems then if I were running at 2700 rpm?

    I'm guessing this question is like the computer question I get at least once a month - is it better to shut my computer off at night or leave it on? Which causes more wear and tear. I always respond "hard to say" or "either is ok".
  • grandtotalgrandtotal Posts: 1,207
    Driving at 3000 RPM versus 2700 RPM will increase wear on your car, but in my opinion not enough to notice. Either is well within the normal operating range. If you are worried about wear then make sure to drive gently for the first couple of minutes after start and change the fluids according to the manufacturer's recommendations.
  • beernutbeernut Posts: 329
    In my usual manner of making blanket statements with no supportive evidence, I'd say cruising at 3000RPM will make the engine work harder than at 2700, thus wear more - trans, too. MPG suffers at the faster cruise too - a little goodie that airplane designers call "parasite drag". It goes up exponentially with speed. I know I can run 12 or so miles at a 9 minute pace but pushing along at faster than an 8 minute pace tears me up at around 6 or 7 miles.
  • don15don15 Posts: 2
    I have a Corolla LE 4spd auto, according to the specifications, Highway =17.8KM/L and City 12.8KM/L. I do 70% Highway 30%Ciy, I should get at least 14KM/L, I get only 9KM/L. I have done about 1000KM and as usual the dealer is not helpful after selling the car. I like to get any statistics even from the US folks, any Canadians with a similar problem????. I use regular gas, they said it was perfectly alright when I inquired. Any thoughts on this are highly appreciated.
  • jrct9454jrct9454 Posts: 2,363
    I hope you haven't inadvertently turned off the overdrive, locking the automatic in third gear. This may sound too obvious, but it has already happened to one person I know complaining of poor fuel consumption....
  • don15don15 Posts: 2
    No, I haven't turned off the o/d..... I have written to Toyota Canada about this and they still haven’t responded. I guess after you buy you are on your own.!!!! no matter what
  • sandman46sandman46 Posts: 1,798
    I owned 2 Corolla's since 1988 and was very happy with the mileage, not quite what the EPA said, but close enough. My '03 Sentra is a different story, nowhere near what the sticker says. That's my only gripe about the car actually and I've finally learned 2 live with it. Had it checked at the dealer twice now, and always "within specs"!
    My advice, just move on. It's only a car and it does what it's supposed to do, get you from point A to point B. If you truly like the car in every other way, let it go, life's to short!
    Stepping down slowly off my soap box, as my back has still not fully healed since my accident at work 10 months ago.

    The Sandman :-)
  • u2502u2502 Posts: 1
    So I have been plagued with Check engine light problems. Every time it has been code 52 which is for the knock sensor. I replaced the knock sensor and the Oxygen sensor (thought it was a code 25 at first) and after a month of the light not coming on, it has come on again with the code 52. I am stumped and so is my mechanic. The other problem that I have been having is that every so often, when I am stopped at a stoplight the engine will briefly idle really really low and then go back to normal. The whole process lasts about 2 seconds. Are these problems related? Thanks so much for your help, I really appreciate it!
  • petewlkppetewlkp Posts: 2
    I just bought a 2005 corolla CE. So far I'm really happy with it and I bet I'll probably stay happy for a long time. My two previous cars were 90 mustang lx 5.0 and 99 intrepid. All I'm gonna say about the intrepid is that I'll never buy a chrysler again. The car had the engine changed twice in the 5 years I had it, a/c compressor stopped working last year and two windows didn't open. Oh yeah, the locks were broken too. My advice to any one is to stay away from the 2.7 engine that chrysler makes. I can't believe they still make those engines and put them in 300's and magnums. As for the Corolla, nothing bad to say. I'm not getting the mileage the car is supposed to get but I'm sure it will get better with time. The car is a 5 speed and pretty quick for a small 130 pony engine.
    My wife is thinking of getting Mazda3. What do you guys think?
  • jrct9454jrct9454 Posts: 2,363
    The M3 is smaller inside, makes more noise, rides more firmly, and handles better, in addition to being generally more expensive in terms of actual transaction prices. Nice car for driving around town, but not much of a trip car because of the noise level, and the trunk/back seat can't be compared to the Corolla. Depends, as always, on what you want/need.
  • beernutbeernut Posts: 329
    Before we bought our '05 S, a wholesaler friend of mine in Chicago called us with a real nice, real low mileage '04 Intrepid. It was a beautiful car, great price and I wanted it. I called a Chrysler mechanic friend in Newport News for a recommendation and he said to run away from the Chrysler 2.7 as fast as we could - chronic sludge problems leading to no oil flow leading to internal ground steel. We ran fast to the Toyota dealer. The Toyota dealer, as it turns out, kinda sucks, but we love the car.
  • beernutbeernut Posts: 329
    Also, we thought the M3 interior was MUCH smaller than the Corolla.
  • paulrlpaulrl Posts: 11
    My 01Corolla check engine light come on with code p0171 My mechanic replace o2 sensor the first one from exhaust manifold ,the light still come back on
    Anybody has exp. please help ,my mechanic doesnot know
    Paul
  • vlanman25vlanman25 Posts: 49
    I have a 2003 Corrola standard shift and I get at least 40+ MPG highway driving it at a reasonable speed and 30s around town (suburbia). I have 39,000 miles on the car and without a doubt it's the best car I've ever owned including some that cost a lot more. It's never been in the shop for repair of any kind. I hope you find the same to be true.
  • ski46ski46 Posts: 24
    Answer to questions #1 - Yes, your mileage will continue to improve and should stabilize after about 3,000 miles.
    Answer to Question #2 - Synthetic oil generally is thinner and slipprier than conventional oil. You might want to check out Amsoil, the first synthetic on the market, before Mobil 1. They make a 0W-30 synthetic oil that can be used year round in cars that require 5W-30. It's a bit expensive, but you can leave it in a lot longer than regular oil. Go to www.amsoil.com for more details.
    Answer to Question #3 - all cars are different and geared differently. When the EPA estimates miles per gallon they are driving the speed limit on the highway,not 75 mph. I have an 03 Corolla and I am using Amsoil 0W-30 oil, I run an extra 2 lbs. of air in my tires and at 65 mph, with the cruise control on, I have gotten 38.5 mpg on the highway.
  • mole1mole1 Posts: 3
    Coasting is an extremely dangerous practice, you should be utilising engine braking wherever possible, this saves wear on the brakes and means that you are not entirely reliant on one method of slowing you down.

    If you must coast why don't you just slip the clutch ?.... how quickly do you think you could get the car back into gear if something went wrong ?
  • cray4cray4 Posts: 1
    I have a 1994 corolla with 141,000 miles. Several days ago I replaced the alternator.Yesterday, the car failed to start. I engine almost turned over. As I examined the engine I saw sparking on the distributor; it moved counterclockwise and was present on each spark plug. Do I have a distributor cap/plug wire problem or is it more serious?
  • We can only see one light pole ahead at night. Is this a normal condition for the Corolla??? We have the base CE. Maybe we should have upgraded to the model with the fog lights.
  • Have had to bring the Corolla in for the check engine light. Came on and went out before I was able to get it in. Came on again Sunday, and of course went out again.

    The Corolla handles great, but I was very surprised to have to bring a new vehicle back in to the dealer so soon. (UInder 1000 miles) Believe it or not I have not had to bring my new GM made vehicles back to the dealer for vehicle problems. The great Toyota reputation sold me, so I will try to believe, but I hope they are able to solve it and perform as well as GM has for me in the past.

    The other annoyance is the very poor low beam lighting at night, Is that normal for a Toyota???
  • Just checked my mileage on a new 05 Corolla CE @ 36mpg with a mix of city and highway miles. I operate the 5 speed manual at 2200- 2300 revs tops. I don't believe it goes much over 2500 even at highway speed. I don't know why you are taching up so high. A real driver would get a manual transmission and learn how to drive!!!!!!!
  • beernutbeernut Posts: 329
    I fully agree with the joys of driving a stick and I'm sure you are quite proud to be a member of the exclusive "real driver" club, but with one to two hour commutes in bumper to bumper traffic and/or my wife driving 100 miles per day shuttling kids, groceries, etc. around while eating, talking, writing, yelling and the rest, the automatic becomes a safety and sanity item.

    Its one of the life numbing facts of middle-age.
  • I am sorry I was so hard on you. Please accept my apology. I am 60 years old and have mostly had standard shift cars and trucks over the years. I have had a couple of automatics, but not really happy with them. It's all you can get in a minivan, for example.

    That said, I really don't blame you for choosing an automatic for driving in City Traffic. I am fortunate to live in Maine where traffic is not really a problem, except for the Maine Turnpike on the 4th of July if you are heading North at the Kittery Toll booth.

    It does seem like the RPM's are a lot higher than what I see with the Standard. Of course the fact you are stuck in traffic a lot is going to have a huge impact on your fuel consumption.
  • Update: The dealer adjusted the low beams. Lights were both aimed real low from the factory!!!
  • Update: Dealer adjusted the low beams today, but have to bring it back in for the check engine light next week. Apparantly there was a recent recall of certain engine numbers for computer chip issues.
  • mukka39mukka39 Posts: 1
    HELP!

    I've read a lot of posts in which people have noticed a rattle or creak coming from their sunroof when it is either open or tilted, but has anyone noticed a rattle come from the sunroof when it is closed? I am having a DREADFUL time with my 2005 Corolla S sunroof.

    I believe the problem is with the shade. However if i slide it closed or all the way back it still does it. Even if I put pressure on it with my hand. My commute to work is a nightmare. I can't get this sound out of my head. I took the car to Toyota, but they couldn't hear it, and i'll be honest I even drove with the service guy, and it was barely audible. However, it was the first warm day in a while, and later that night when it was considerabley colder the noise was back just as before. Any ideas???

    Thanks
  • jrct9454jrct9454 Posts: 2,363
    Take a paper towel or rag, spray it with silicone spray [available cheap at any auto parts store], open the sunroof, and go over all of the rubber surfaces with the silicone [every place where the glass and the rubber seals make contact]. This won't help if it's the cover, but if it's the glass slightly shifting when it gets cold, this may solve the problem.

    The second thought is preventative: avoid sunroofs at all costs. In an era when AC is universal in cars, sunroofs are just a potential source of problems and annoyance. Exhibit A...
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