Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!





Toyota Corolla Maintenance and Repair

15681011188

Comments

  • dchinndchinn Posts: 64
    Don't know where U live and where the cars are located but the Toy engines are relatively durable if well-maintained (regular oil changes & belts changed as annotated in the service records). If the cars are in the e. Coast/Midwest, I would be hesitant due to the salting of the roads during winter affecting the undercarriage of the cars, i.e. their steering components, exhaust systems etc. They are prone to premature rust. West Coast & South have less of a problem. Hope that helps. Best yet, get a reliable mechanic to give it a good diagnostic.
  • aichezhuaichezhu Posts: 6
    Thanks dichinn. Yes, I live in Midwest and there are lots of snow. Rust is really my concern. the car I am looking at has 89K on it. there is no rust now. does it need changing timing belt and any thing recently? I just want to make sure it's worth buying before I have it checked by a mechanic. By the way, the price is $4400. Is that reasonable? It is auto, radio and tape, power lock, window, steering, rear defroster. Thanks for your attention.
  • dchinndchinn Posts: 64
    U need to check out the owner's history of repairs. Ask him/her 4 the latest receipts which show service changing the timing belt, brakes, hoses, sparkplug cables, transmission fluid, etc. Look at the owners manual when the major engine service is due. Normally, it's at 90K miles. As 4 the price, pls check www.kbb.com for a ball-park figure based on condition & options. TTFN.
  • cchiefcchief Posts: 1
    WE CURRENTLY HAVE A 90 TOYOTA TERCEL, IT HAS APPROX. 120XXX MILES ON IT AND THE ENGINE HAS BEEN GOING BAD FOR ABOUT THE LAST 5XXX MILES. TOYOTA APPARENTLY ISSUED A TSB (TECH SVC BULLETIN) ON THE VALVE SEALS FOR THIS ENGINE, AND SO WE ARE AT A POINT WHERE WE NEED TO DECIDE WHETHER TO REBUILD THE ENGINE, INSTALL A NEW/USED, SELL THE CAR, OR TRADE IT IN ON A NEW ONE. ALSO THE REAR SUSPENSION MUST HAVE SOMETHING WRONG WITH IT, WE HAVE GONE THROUGH 4 SETS OF STRUTS IN THE PAST YEAR (INCLUDING THE ORIGINALS), BUT THE MECHANICS SAY THAT THE REST OF THE REAR END IS OK.? THE CAR WE ARE CONSIDERING PURCHASING IS A 2000-TOYOTA COROLLA. HAS ANYONE HAD ANY EXPERIENCE WITH THESE YET? AND HAS ANYONE RUN INTO THE TERCEL/ENGINE AND REAR-END PROBLEMS? THE TERCEL WAS A GREAT CAR UP UNTIL IT HIT 100K MILES, BUT IT IS BURNING OIL AND COOLANT AND IT GETS WORSE EVERYDAY.
  • pat455pat455 Posts: 603
    Hi cchief,

    Welcome! Have you had a chance to look through out Sedans conference yet? There are several topics on the Toyota Corolla that might interest you. Here is a link to one of them: Toyota Corolla. You can just click on that link to find lots of opinions about the 2000 model. Also, you can key Corolla into the Topic Search feature on the left side of this page to find more conversations about that car.

    Meanwhile, maybe someone around here has some thoughts about your Tercel difficulties.

    Pat
    Community Leader/Maintenance & Repair Conference
  • bmaigebmaige Posts: 140
    I have a '92 Tercel with 164,000 miles on it that is still going strong and hammering out around 40 MPG. I bought it new and commuted in it about 100 miles daily round trip until I retired. The only thing I have ever done to it is change the oil and filter every 5,000 miles, put brakes on it once, and gas in it as needed. And it will still start at the touch of the key and run like a scalded ape.

    It and the rest of the Toyotas I have owned have opened my eyes to the fact a car can be built to run 100,000 miles without a problem, so I have developed a terrible taste for American built vehicles and the poor mouthing of those who are convinced otherwise.

    The Tercel is no longer made, replaced, apparently, by the Echo. I have been retired for a couple of years and don't put the mileage on this car I used to, but when I do need to get rid of it I will probably get an Echo. I have plenty of vehicles, but live in the country and find it is nice to have a "scooter" vehicle that gets good gas mileage to run around in.
  • dchinndchinn Posts: 64
    By yourself a new Corolla or Echo. Save yourself the aggravation on worrying when and what is going to go wrong next w/ your Tercel. I bought my 2K Corolla CE in late March. Currently, I am still breaking it in. No problems w/ it so far except for replacing a floor mat where the threads were unravelling at no cost.
  • mano2mano2 Posts: 9
    What can be the problem with my 1998 Toyota Corolla? I have 28,000 miles on it. When the engine is warm, it wants to stall on me while idoling. If I give it a bit of gas or when the cooling fan kicks in, the engine starts running all right again.
    I just got an oil change and tune up (replaced spark plugs and air filter) about a month ago. My gas milage is incredibly good, and the car starts without a problem all the time.
  • wenyuewenyue Posts: 558
    I posted an answer for your problem in Toytoa Corolla forum. It seems to be a pretty obvious sign of low idling speed. Just ask your dealer to tune the idling speed up a little and you won't have a problem at all.
  • dave594dave594 Posts: 218
    I think a check of the electrical system is in order. Could be something as simple as a loose wire, bad relay or bad ground. But finding out what is the exact problem in the electrical system is the hard part.
  • mano2mano2 Posts: 9
    Thanks for your answer. I wrote to you more "over there".
  • dchinndchinn Posts: 64
    The Toy Corolla shop manual states the cause as either a bad fuel pump/circuit or a faulty Air Cond switch.
  • I just purchased a used 1998 Corolla and I can here a ticking noise coming from the engine. I took it back to the dealer and they told me it's a normal sound for Corolla's. Is this normal?
  • wenyuewenyue Posts: 558
    Do you only hear the noise after you stoped your car and turned off the engine? Not while you are driving, and the ticking noise goes away after a while?

    If your noise fits the discription, then there is a good chance it's just the car cooling. And that's normal.

    If you hear a knocking noise when driving, or with your engine on. Then I would say you need to take it to a mechanic for a check.

    Good luck.
  • pat455pat455 Posts: 603
    I am copying and reposting the following from a similar topic:

    #0 of 0: (chipzz) Fri 21 Apr '00 (08:13 AM)
    I'm getting a whine from the rear end of my '92
    Corolla 4wd wagon I bought last yr. Toyota dealer
    mech said probably differential, $200.just to
    open it up to assess problem, then big bucks if
    differential replacement. I noticed a slight whine
    when I test drove, Toyota dealer mechs examined
    and gave it A-1, AOK, "go ahead and buy it",seems they didn't test drive it, now I'm facing big bucks, cause I assumed the whine was normal for 4wd, but noise now seems louder and I want it fixed. Called junk yard for diff., they have the part for $300. (I hear new diff. can cost 1000+?Any advice, similar problem of this model/year?


    Any suggestions for chipzz?

    Pat
    Community Leader/Maintenance & Repair Conference
  • I purchased new a 1993 Corrola LE that now has 110,000 miles and is in still good shape. When I first got it I complained that there was a ticking. The dealer told me it was normal for the Corrola. One hundred thousand plus miles later the car runs great and I can only say good things about it. I travel often and get to try out many rentals of the same class and can can honestly say that Corrola is the best of all them. And that includes even the foreign models. As for the american cars, they just feel like junk.
  • dbz1dbz1 Posts: 1
    I got my 93 corolla from a toyota dealer not long ago. It has about 103k on it. I found it shakes slightly even on quite smooth roads, and this is more obvious when turning or braking. But it runs ok on highways. Anyone can tell me what the reason might be? Thank you.
  • pat455pat455 Posts: 603
    I am copying and reposting the following from a similar topic:

    #0 of 0: 1988 Toyota Corolla Charge warning light problem (randell) Tue 25 Apr '00 (08:44 AM)

    Hello --

    My trusty 1988 Toyota corolla LE Sedan has just
    started having a problem where the 'charge' and
    'brake' warning lights are both staying on after
    starting the car (they are next to each other in
    the console display).

    Anyway, I removed the instrument panel, did not
    find any shorts or anything. The fuses called out
    in the Toyota service repair manual look okay, as
    well as the wiring...continuity checks okay. The
    alternator appears to be charging fine, although
    admittedly I have not checked everything as the
    regulator is built into it.

    The only thing that seems funny to me is that
    according to the electrical diagrams, both the
    'charge' warning light and the 'brake' warning
    light are connected via diodes on the ground side
    to the 'charge' 7.5 amp fuse (which is okay as
    mentioned above). Removing this fuse does not
    change the problem, although when I apply the
    brake I hear a solenoid of some kind clicking in the engine compartment. I have not figured out which solenoid is the one making the noise, and this may be irrelevant, but it seems strange to me, as no solenoid noise is heard when the fuse is there.

    Any ideas or pointers would be most appreciated.

    Ken Randell


    Any ideas about Ken's problem?

    Pat
    Community Leader/Maintenance & Repair Conference
  • i used to drive a circa 1990 corolla and it would sometimes emit the same smell. i read somewhere once that it was due to a problem with the fuel injection. it seemed to me that the smell wouldn't come if i went easy on the acceleration, especially when using the car for the first time in the morning. hope that helps.
  • dchinndchinn Posts: 64
    Question for all 98 & newer Corolla owners... Are
    there 2 very small springs holding the c-ring of
    the rear cup holder (one on each side) located in
    the center console (2K Corolla CE). I noticed only one spring on the right side when it is pulled out (it does not pop it cleanly) or should
    there only be one spring on the right side. I've
    checked the shop manual but unfortunately, it does
    not have a blow-up of the center console. Thanks
    all for any replies back. I've addressed this earlier #448 in another townhall Toy topic. No answer to date.
Sign In or Register to comment.