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Corvettes and all things about them

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Comments

  • gbjerkegbjerke Posts: 158
    Boy, I'm busy tonight.
    Don't know exactly what you are looking for as you describe you want a "purring sound".
    There are all kinds of aftermarket systems you can get. If you want a lot of "bark" you can get it. Don't think I can mention vendors here.
    If you are not in a "smog tested" area, you can get manifold back systems (no cats) and use stock mufflers and believe me, they will bark at you.
    Post what you are looking for and I suspect there will be several suggestions.
  • jmessjmess Posts: 677
    Be careful about muffler changes with a C6. The stock C6 system is a pretty good balance of performance, noise management, and light weight.

    I have never been a fan of the muscle car sound/rumble. There are so many V8 pickup trucks running around with loud exhaust systems that I don't want my C6 to sound like that.

    So I recently installed the Corsa Sports which have a higher pitch; more European sound. The popular C6 muffler culture says the Corsa Sports aren't much louder than stock. That isn't true, they are a lot louder than stock to a point that they are annoying in daily stop and go driving.

    So now I am going to install the Corsa touring kit which adds some resonators and see if that helps. I was lucky to find a fellow C6 owner who gave me his touring kit. If that doesn't smooth things out I am going back to the stock system.

    So try and find somebody who has the exhaust system you are interested in and go for a ride if possible. The sound clips posted on some of the websites don't really give you a real sample of what the different exhaust systems sound like when they are in your car and you are driving it.
  • vettevervettever Posts: 20
    Three words... Borla Cat Back!
  • starrow68starrow68 Posts: 1,142
    My POV on avg expenses is not much use unless you plan to track a car and auto is not the best for that, vert is also not good on track. I have two sets of wheels and have Michelin run flats on the stock set. They hardly ever seem to wear, actually I think they have been in the garage all winter since I did lots of track days. The track wheels are Z06 OEM which are 1" wider all around. The tires are usually $1,100 to $1,500 a set and on track they can go quick if you don't manage them well. I've gotten up to about 10 track days on a set with good monitoring of track and street air pressure. I just don't find it worth the time to swap without more than two weeks between events.

    The brakes are not up to heavy track use in long sessions, but if you add cooling as I have done and back off some on threshold braking at the limit they will work. I've been on stock rotors, pads and fluid for three years and now get about 3/4 days out of pads, 1/3 days out of fluid and 10 or so days out of rotors. Pads are about $250 all four wheels, with rotors about $100 for all four. The fluid cost is a function of doing it yourself or not. When I find a brake upgrade that seems well engineered for the whole system I will probably upgrade. I have heard too many problems with partial changes.

    If you drive on the street, as my wife does, I don't expect replacement issues for some time yet.
  • starrow68starrow68 Posts: 1,142
    Borla, Magnaflow, Corsa, GLH (?), Billy Boat, SLP, Bassani, Dynatech, Callaway, LG, etc. The choices are so wide that without hearing some, all the input in the world from somebody else's ears isn't going to solve the problem. Find a local Corvette Club, go to a meeting and ask to hear some, they love to show off what they think is best. I love my Magnaflows on the C5 at the track since I can run at Laguna Seca on sound restricted days at 92db and have no issues, yet at WOT I get enough feedback to make my shift points. No drone on the freeway either. I love the wife's Corsa Indy on her C5 and she does too, but I'm the only one who gets past about 3000rpm and above that they are really loud, great on ramp from Ygnacio Valley Road, in Walnut Creek s/b 680 between 30 ft high walls for a few hundred feet. At 5500 just a little lift, astounding! But in her driving and since both cars are 6 speeds with cruise on the freeway at about 1500 rpm, no loud sounds.

    Go find some, they are a treat, all depends on what you want.
    Randy
  • starrow68starrow68 Posts: 1,142
    http://www.edmunds.com/insideline/do/News/articleId=114943

    My only thought is will that make the current Z06 more available?
  • dmonizdmoniz Posts: 15
    I'm thinking of buying an '89 Vette Ragtop with 56,000 miles listed at $13k in Mass. Is this a good deal? I've only seen a few pics and it looks good with just a tear in the driver's seat. What should I look for when I inspect it? Anything you guys can tell me will be appreciated.
  • volvomaxvolvomax Posts: 5,274
    First of all, make sure the guy has service records.
    Run a carfax. Look for any cracks in the fiberglass, frame damage etc.
    Those C4's had a tendency to go through U-joints, and their digital dashes could act up.
    Check for leaks, those 350's had iron blocks, but aluminum heads, if they overheated the heads would warp.
    Take a look at the underhood wiring, heat was a killer in those cars, but being in Mass. should have helped it.
    As for the price, unless it is absolutely perfect, new rubber, brakes etc I think it is a little high.
    I wouldn't look at that car for anything over $9-10 grand.
  • starrow68starrow68 Posts: 1,142
    Below is copied from the 2004 Vette Magazine price guide, you can go to Vetteweb.com and search on price guide to find in the April 04 issue.
    About the time that came out I got a '95 Coupe with only 18k miles for just under $16k and it was perfect inside & outside, but had debris in the engine compartment. I too would say that without service records to confirm mileage among other things it's a roll of the dice.

    1989 COUPE TOTAL PRODUCTION 16,663
    ENG/TRANS HP RPO# Excellent Good Average
    350 TPI/AT 240 L98 16 12.5 9
    350 TPI/6-spd. 240 L98 16.5 13 9.5
    Add 10 percent for Z51 HD suspension option.
    1989 CONVERTIBLE TOTAL PRODUCTION 9,749
    ENG/TRANS HP RPO# Excellent Good Average
    350 TPI/AT 240 L98 18 14 10
    350 TPI/6-spd. 240 L98 18.5 14.5 10.5
  • tsytsy Posts: 1,551
    I wonder how many they're planning on building? Probably not a lot, which means a lot of people will just have to 'settle' with only 500 hp. ;) My guess is that it won't make a big difference in Z06 availability.

    Of course, maybe GM will do something right and build more than 25 of them? Let's see, if they could sell 1000 of them at $100K, that's $100M! Ah, still won't put a dent in their financial problems.

    One thing's for certain, 600hp makes our C6 seem down right anemic. :D

    tom
  • motorhead1motorhead1 Posts: 111
    I tried my 1991 Corvette out on a stretch of road that is about 3k long and not any traffic to speak of the other day just to see how fast it would go. I noticed in Overdrive at about 135 it seemed to shift up and quit pulling very hard. I guess it shifted into OD, so the next run I left it in Drive and it did better but I was meeting some traffic so I slowed down. So I guess the best thing to do for top speed is leave it in Drive with an auto trans, what do you guys think?
  • starrow68starrow68 Posts: 1,142
    From discussion with people on the C5 6sp, the top end is in 5th gear not 6th so I'm guessing that you found the same issue in the auto. The air pressure drag at that speed seems to exceed the ability of OD to provide acceleration. Stay safe and remember that birds and rabbits at those speeds are big missles.
  • bigmike5bigmike5 Posts: 960
    Ah, what a great weekend, as I cruised up to Indy for opening day ceremonies, and got to run a lap on the track with 90 Vettes and the Pace car. 3 abreast in 30 rows, trying to keep good spacing and covered down. A memorable day in beautiful 70 degree weather. I just hope some of the promo shots that were taken are made available. My passenger shot some Sony tape, and I got a few digital still shots. Conti posted 2 and Dan did on his Indy site too. A really classy event, done up right by the Chevy and Indy folks and the Circle City Corvette Club. It was a "Corvette Day." :shades:
  • vettevervettever Posts: 20
    I have a 2002 ZO6. I had a twin tube intake from a my 99 hardtop and would like to know if it will do anything for the ZO6 performance. It looks to me that GM has put a bigger intake on the ZO6 already. The company that manufactures the twin tube said the one from my 99 will fit (with a differante coupler the sell) and improve the performance on my ZO6. What do you guys think?
  • ruking1ruking1 Posts: 14,958
    Given the results of dyno's on the "cable tie" modification for the Z06, I would say you money is better spent else where. In addition, "other than" factory oem air filters do not filter as well. Oiled cotton media also increases the likelihood of getting mineral oil on VERY sensitive MAF parts which can cause your MAF to give false readings and or malfunction.

    The factory designed air filter housing is really designed to meet or exceed the snow "prophalatic test: i.e. to prevent snow ingestion thereby increasing the chance of hydro lock.

    Keep in mind the after market versions are NOT designed with snow prophalatics in mind.

    So IF one does not need the snow prophalatics of the original design, a few options are: drill more holes in the cover to increase surface area, remove the cover all together and "cable tie" the air filter to the frame.
  • volvomaxvolvomax Posts: 5,274
    If that is the only mod you are doing, then you will see very small improvement.
    However, if you are doing further mods, headers, exhaust, ecu mods than a freer intake is a must.
    As for damage to the engine, most aftermarket systems aren't oiled like the old K&N filters. MAF damage is unlikely.
    So is weather damage.
    I think everyone has more sense than to drive a Z06, or any other Vette in the snow!
    The biggest issue is heat soak. Esp here in the southwest.
    Alot of "cold air" systems just pull in air from under the hood, air that is already quite hot.
    If you are in traffic alot, the exposed filter will tend to pull in hotter air from under the hood.
    The Z06 has a better cold air intake than the regular C5's do, so this shouldn't be as bad.
  • bhill2bhill2 Posts: 1,371
    I have a '03 6-speed that sometimes does not want to engage reverse. By that I mean that when shifted into reverse the gears don't actually engage, and if I then release the clutch it chatters and goes nowhere. A second try usually gets it in. I can get around the problem by holding the shifter in reverse position as I start to let out the clutch; the gears then engage and reverse acts normally. Has anyone else had this problem?

    2009 BMW 335i, 2003 Corvette cnv, 2001 Jaguar XK cnv, 1985 MB 380SE (the best of the lot)

  • volvomaxvolvomax Posts: 5,274
    My 99 6spd does the same thing.
    Shifter needs to be adjusted.
  • ultraman19ultraman19 Posts: 24
    I have a build date of May 22,2006. How many days does it take to construct a corvette?

    Approximately, how long after next week will the car arrive?(OKC.)

    I always purchase GMPP Extended Coverage.Usually, I can get a lower rate than the GMPP MSRP on the coverage, but this time they are not negotiating. ( 84 months/70,000 miles with $100 deductible for $2740). Does anyone know of dependable,equal or superior, coverage for less money?

    I got a 3LT, Z51, 6sp. for $50,780. I thought it was a good deal, was it?

    I have never owned a convertible, any do's or don'ts? Advice?

    Thanks!!
  • starrow68starrow68 Posts: 1,142
    You don't have to get GMPP from the dealer selling the car. I have two policies from Fichtner Chevy, Laurel, MT, yes Montana and I live just east of San Francisco. If you want a quote I think it would take you an email to the contact on the web site, search Google. I've had my GMPP honored at two local Chevy dealers with no questions, it is simply in the GM system.
    Randy
  • arizona99arizona99 Posts: 3
    Does anyone know how to fix a track problem. My drivers seat moves forward about 4inches when I'm driving. Has anyone had that problem before. I know a new track cost about 900.00. Is this a common problem.
  • arizona99arizona99 Posts: 3
    I just changed out my front rotors and front pads and my brakes still vibrate. Does anyone have any ideas what I should try next.
  • volvomaxvolvomax Posts: 5,274
    are you sure that it is the brakes?
    Or is it a general shimmy?

    If you replaced the front pads and rotors, maybe it is the back ones that are causing the problem.
  • gbjerkegbjerke Posts: 158
    Guess I'm not sure what you mean when you describe it as "vibrate". Do you mean a "shimmy" in the steering wheel? If the rotors were warped you would notice this shimmy only when you applied the brakes. If you have this problem when the brakes are not applied, I would first suspect a wheel balance problem; or bent rim? Maybe even a belt seperation on one of the tires?
    To many unknowns. Did it come on gradually or was it a sudden event? Sudden event would suggest you lost a wheel weight and a balance of the tires would be the cheapest attempt at a fix.
    Post a bit more info and I'll do my best at attempting to make a suggestion(s).
  • ruking1ruking1 Posts: 14,958
    I guess the anwer would lie in the level of ones notion of "safety". I have been running "NON" run flats for 73,000 miles on a 2001 Z06. ZERO problems!! This is not to say I have NEVER taken a nail. I have taken three and all in the same tire. (right rear) In all cases, they were slow leakers. This (3 "peat") patched tire went on to give 56,000 miles of wear. They were GY Eagle F1 SC's. I happened to go to the Toyo Proxes T1S's. I had wanted much better rain performance, as I drive a lot of longer distance touring and can't always control the rain. :)

    There are of course many more options. You might look into the Michelin's Pilot SportPS2's, Dunlop SP Sport Maxx's, or GY Eagle F1 GS D-3's as they are rated the latest and greatest HOT numbers.
  • motorhead1motorhead1 Posts: 111
    I just bought a 2002 vette with 1sb package. I locked my keys in the car the other day and was surprised because my 2004 truck and the 2003 truck I had would not let you lock the doors with the keys in the ignition. The owners manual says that the car will not allow you to lock the door with the keys in but mine will. Is there a setting wrong or will all vetts let you lock the door with the keys in?
  • vettevervettever Posts: 20
    I have an 02 ZO6 and it doesn't come with run-flats but with a compressor and GM fix-a-flat. The drawback with using fix-a-flat is the air pressure sensor will no longer work if you use it.The ZO6 does not have air pressure sensors. I had a 99 with out run-flats and carried a compressor, plugging kit and a can of fix-a-flat in case I couldn't plug it. Try not to get a flat (or lock your keys in it)! Best of luck with your Corvette!
  • stormin800stormin800 Posts: 39
    I own a 99 coupe. 2 days ago, I noticed that the passenger window wouldn't go up or down. Before I go spend hundreds at the Chevy dealership, does anyone have a thought. There is a clicking inside the passenger door. any thoughts??
  • abbylouabbylou Posts: 33
    I just purchased our first Corvette and have a few questions? We bought a 2001 with 25k on the odometer and one of the options that intrigued us was the driving mode settings that are located on the console? There is a touring, sport, and performance setting. We have read the manual concerning this, but really wanted to know from true experienced drivers, is this a pretty worthless option, or is their value added? It also has a Route 66 exhaust system? 3.15 rear end with an automatic tranny, which seems to launch it like a rocket? It looks like there has been two previous owners in its short life and was wondering if the gearing changes the everyday driving of this vehicle?
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