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Corvettes and all things about them

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  • printzprintz Posts: 70
    Should be getting my Vette sometime in March.......Any suggestions on a good indoor cover that's real easy to take ON & OFF....Just concerned about keeping airborn particles off.......

    Thanks for any suggestions....
  • eliaselias Posts: 1,934
    i think it takes a bunch of engine on/off cycles to clear the gas cap code...
    my GTO gas cap failed as many do, and was replaced under warranty. GM later sent a letter saying that the gas cap warranty has been extended to 100k miles for all GTOs.
    in my case there was no pressure seal, but also no OBD dashboard warning - i drove it like that for months. mpg seemed lower.
  • starrow68starrow68 Posts: 1,142
    http://bgdailynews.com/articles/2008/01/09/news/news4.txt

    Discusses current sales downturn and production. Also mentions future economy

    http://money.cnn.com/2008/01/04/autos/corvette_not_leaving/?postversion=20080107- 14

    This is about the future economy issue, I like the line about Corvette MPG being
    better than smaller sports cars. Gotta love torque and that tall 6th gear.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,244
    It's a great combination but the driver has to be sober about the tall gearing. If he lugs even a torquey V8 at an extremely low RPM, the engine wear is going to be considerable. Lugging is one of the worst things you can do to an engine, bar none. This is why some automakers won't even let you GO into overdrive until the engine is warmed up. (automatic transmission cars).

    What a concept--- a hypermiler in a Corvette! :cry:

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  • chuckvchuckv Posts: 1
    Hi,
    I have an 89 Convertible that I'll probably put up for sale in the spring. I'm trying to establish a sale price but in doing a little research I'm seeing pricing for comparable Vettes that are just all over the place. Can anyone advise a good resource to assist in ascertaining a realistic fair market value ?

    My Vette is real cherry with only a little over 17,000 miles and has seen no bad weather driving. Photos here: 89 Vette Photos

    Thanks,
    Chuck
  • 02 Z06, daily driver,19000 miles with a new battery. Every once in a while when I turn the key it acts like the battery is dead or the clutch isn't on the floor. It starts after several tries but yesterday it took about 20 tries. I'm afraid to take it to the dealer because he'll keep it a week, charge a fortune and find nothing wrong. Any hints? Thanks, Joe.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,244
    You could temporarily bypass the clutch switch and see if the problem goes away. Also, check your battery terminals for corrosion or looseness; also inspect your wiring at the starter solenoid for looseness or corrosion; otherwise, I'd suspect your ignition key is just worn out at this high mileage.

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  • cnwcnw Posts: 105
    Huh? I tracked with you until "worn out at this high mileage." Since when is 19,000 high mileage?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,244
    Oh, LOL! I read it as "119000".

    Well would you throw rocks at me if I said "worn out as per a GM ignition switch?" (the C5s used to jam a lot IIRC)

    But seriously, the advice still applies regardless of mileage. Good luck tracking this down.

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  • cnwcnw Posts: 105
    Whew!! I thought you were trying to tell us something. Thanks for the clarification.
    Clark
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,244
    No worries--a C5 is not a Ferrari. 19K miles is nothin'.

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  • Thanks for the responses, I'm using the other key and keeping my fingers crossed! I'm also hoping to get another 19000 miles out of the old boy!
    Thanks again,
    Joe
  • cnwcnw Posts: 105
    Thank goodness none of the 'Vettes are Ferraris. Tempermental and costly to maintain. And they sell it as personality and status. Give me raw, brute torque and horsepower. Besides, there are distinct advantages to American production cars when economies are in turmoil. Clark
  • I have a '74 Corvette Stingray and am looking around for a local corvette club in the Washington State area, preferrable Seattle and north. Can anyone help.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,244
    yeah but Ferraris sound great. Nothin' like it Of course, it costs about $1 a mile to drive one. :P

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  • jsouthjsouth Posts: 13
    I work with a bunch of guys that have GT mustangs and Shelby Mustangs that say they can beat my 2007 C6 in a drag race. We are going to a local drag strip to see but the question I want to ask some of you guys is should I leave the traction control on or off . I have raced Motorcross for many years but haven`t drag raced very much so I need some input. Thanks
  • ruking1ruking1 Posts: 14,953
    Off.

    But if you seriously want to win and to lessen the chance of equipment failure, you really need to practice and correctly. My guess is the bunch of guys you work with have done this more than once.

    I personally would not do it unless I was ready for a minimum of a new clutch, flywheel and throw out bearing combo. (before you do this, you might want to peg a cost) Also you can easily fry a set of 1200-1500 dollar tires. So really a set of drag strip tire and rim combo is almost a must.
  • jsouthjsouth Posts: 13
    My car has an auto trans and i`m not going to push it too hard at least not hard enough to tear something up. This is just for fun so I hope not to do any damage. I just know that with the traction control off it is really hard to hook up. I`ll just have to practice alot. Thanks
  • 5539655396 Posts: 529
    Certainly agree on what the tire rules are. If you use stock street rubber, skill will be a factor off the line. Done properly, wear and tear shouldn't be excessive. I never ripped up anything when I raced, and always did full throttle power shifts with my heavier 65 Impalla SS 396CI 425HP. We even used sticky racing compound. Make a few trial runs both ways. If you can't master a hole shot, you may turn better times with TC on. Watch others to see how they come off the lights etc. Good luck.
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    Why don't you do this the simple way, and come back and tell us.

    Have the car warmed up, put the tranny in Sport mode, don't touch the paddles, leave traction control turned on, and just stand on it when the light turns green.

    I think you will eat their lunch.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,244
    I agree. You should beat them easily.

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  • jsouthjsouth Posts: 13
    You know in the old days you could let some air out of the tires to get a little traction but that won`t work on the run flat tires. The only thing about starting with the TC on is the car will seem to bog if you floor it so if I leave it on I will have to be careful. I also think with a little practice I can start with TC off. I`m just going to have some fun and not tear anything up hopefuly. Thanks for input.
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    Not only that, but with TC off, you are going to spin the tires, unless you practice some and can find out how to launch without spin.

    Have you done a full-throttle launch?

    The few times I've done it, I've not been able to hear the tires spin at all. The runflats do not squeal! This is on a 2007 automatic coupe.
  • jsouthjsouth Posts: 13
    My car is also a 2007 with auto and I have done many full- throttle starts. I have found the best way for me is to start with half throttle and get the car moving then go for it. I will still try to break loose but it seems easier to control that way. My original question was to ask if there is anyone that has used the TC off or on to drag race. I saw on TV where a new Mustang GT 500 and an old GT 500 raced and the new car won because it had the TC on but when they turned it off the race was closer. I will just have to practice,practice, practice.
  • 5539655396 Posts: 529
    I'll stick with my Ducati and Conti mufflers. That's music to my ears. BMW 6 series isn't bad either.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,244
    I like Ducatis, one of my two favorite makes of motorcycle. I wish America could make the motorcycle equivalent of the Corvette instead of that of a Buick.

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  • 5539655396 Posts: 529
    My Ducati is a 75 860 GT with electric start. Bought it new from a dealer friend. It only has 22k on it as I parked it in my other garage 1985 and got involved in other things like high end audio. Didn't fire it up again until 2005, then noticed it had a noisy bearing, so we did a complete rebuild. It is still at my friends dealership. He has put 300 miles on it running it in. In the mean time, I bought a Honda VTX 1800. The Ducati will probably have to go. I need to downsize lots of stuff as we just bought a place in AZ for winter. No place for a bike here. Spose I could leave a Vette here though.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,244
    Yeah but lots of wide open space for a Vette in AZ.

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  • 02 ZO6 16,000 miles. Every once in a while (like maybe once every 2 months) it fails to start. Everything works, acts like the neutral switch is not working. I replaced the battery after the first time it did it and it has happened about 3 or 4 times since. I changed keys, thought the chip could be the problem but it has happened again. It has always started after a bunch of tries and has not let me down yet but sooner or later I'll be calling for a tow truck. If I take it to the dealer he will have it for a while and give it back with a big bill and "couldn't find nothing wrong". Anybody got any ideas?
    Thanks
    Joe
  • starrow68starrow68 Posts: 1,142
    Hope if you went, you did well. With TC off you can do burn out if you want. I went
    3 times a few years back and got down to published 13.3's in a C5 coupe on the
    third day with a 6sp manual. With Auto just do a couple practice runs and roll on
    the throttle until you get some slip and figure out what the tires will take. Since my
    350hp will break loose the rear, your 400hp will do the same, easily. The best I've
    seen in autos, just hold brake, put in some throttle, far less than full and release
    brake and roll toward floor as you gain speed. Biggest issue is timing the light,
    and I had to release clutch on last of 3 yellows to get close, you will get to point
    where you just have to follow a script and then only change one factor to see if you
    get improvement.
    As to beating Stangs, remember $ are speed, and most drag guys have modded,
    some heavily but they are still heavier than you. Then it is all about grip.
    Good luck,
    Randy
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