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Chevy S10 Owner Reviews

1568101132

Comments

  • bkbxxbkbxx Posts: 1
    I have an 85 s-10. It is an automatic and 4wd. It's got about 123,000 miles on it. It's also not fuel injected. The truck runs great and there have been no major problems with it. However if it's been sitting for about 5-7 hours (during school,) it makes a loud squeeling noise for about twenty seconds. It runs just like normal after that. I think it might have something to do with the belts but I'm not sure. The strange thing is that it doesnt make the noise in the morning when I first start it or if it's just been sitting for less than 2-3 hours. If anybody knows what this is and how to deal with it I would appreciate it. Thanks, Brian.
  • mm_in_pamm_in_pa Posts: 1
    I have a 99 S-10 with the L35 high output 4.3 vortec engine, and 13000 miles. After it warms up to operating temperature, and I shut it off and start it up, it has a spark knock. I have had it to a couple dealers and they say it is normal. I am skeptical. I had a vortec before, and never experienced this.

    Have any of you had this problem? And how did they fix it?
  • It isnt normal I have the LF6(woo hoo 5 hp difference?), 16k. Keep taking it in. The dealer apparently doesnt know how to fix it or doesnt want to fix it. Try a different dealer or call GM. You know what they say about the squeaky wheel.....keep bugging em especially since its under warranty!!
  • I have a '96 S10 extended cab 4x4. It has the L35 4.3 V6, 5-speed manual transmission. I've not experienced knocking in the 69,000 miles I've put on it since new.

    However, I've had on three occassions a missfire on a cold start, as though one cylinder was not firing. The CHECK ENGINE light would then come on. On all three occassions it would clear as soon as I was able to get on the road and give it the gas. A study of the function of the CHECK ENGINE light in the owners manual helped to lessen the worry somewhat. On the first occassion it took a week and nearly 300 miles before the CHECK ENGINE light would go back out. On the other two occassions it was considerably less.

    I took the truck to my mechanic (AAA approved) and after the truck was checked out he told me that the truck's computer would only store the coding that indeed a missfire did take place, but not the reason. He told me that he was familiar with a problem Chevy has with that engine in that the ports on the fuel injectors are too small and clog easily, causing the stumble. Since the injector was squirting when told to do so, the computer could only detect the misfire, not the fuel problem (since the injector was squirting when told to do so). At the time Chevy was considering a recall.

    The recall was and is now in effect. I took my truck to the dealer, but nothing was really done about it. The entire block of injectors have to be replaced, an expensive job, just to take care of the offending injector.

    Other than that, I've not experienced any major problems with the truck. At 18,000 miles I had a water pump housing crack. At 30,000 miles the top seal on the transmission started to leak. Both were replaced under warranty. The truck continues to look good, run good, and the interior and exterior has held up well in the desert/mountain region I live in.
  • ddrewddrew Posts: 1
    purchased truck on reputation but found out after delivery the manual shift is is anything but smooth. actually sometimes grinds shifting up. Took to dealership after weekly complaints . Finally they installed new sleeves. Rcd veh back and is worse than before. Serv mgr states that is the way they are and he has had no complaints other than mine. He doesnt like it either but that is the design. Has anyone else find the stand shift as I have?
  • glumglum Posts: 3
    I'm a service tech that drives a 1998 S-10 with a high output Vortec V-6. I've put on 70,000 hard miles. The truck has been very reliable. With the exception of regular maintenance; the only problem I had was the u-joints. Just this week the check engine light came on. The truck runs fine and gas mileage has suffered a bit. I figure it is a emission problem, as I haven't had a tune-up since last October.

    The only gripes I have with the truck were the lousy Tiger Paw tires; living in the northeastern Ohio snowbelt the tires couldn't grip the snow even with 300lbs of sandbags in the bed. I would always spin out from a stop. I replaced the tires at 50,000 miles. The manual shifter can be troublesome when I downshift to 3rd gear. The Vortec V-6 consumes a lot of gas on the freeway; I'm lucky to get 280 miles on a full tank. Overall I'm very happy with the truck.
  • gmh1013gmh1013 Posts: 1
    I own a 2000 s-10 with a 4 banger and auto trans
    the truck is great except for the "popping noise"
    I get from the left front end at slow speeds or
    turning to the right.Does anybody else have this
    same problem? is this normal for a s-10?
  • think the hissing is caused by vacuum changing the selections (I have a hissing sound when I change mine), if it is changed by vacuum and you dont hear the hissing you probably have a leak somewhere :(
  • ggosselinggosselin Posts: 22
    I own a 1997 S-10 SS blk fleetside with a new hood.
    Why the new hood you ask? because the belt tensioner blew up literally and went through the hood while I was doing 80mph on the interstate!
    The alternator, the belt tensioner, and needless to say, the hood were replaced under warranty.
    Has anyone else had a similar problem? Chev dealer tells me that it was a freak thing- but I'm curious as to why they replaced it without question or hassle. I'd have guessed that they were going to make me pay for it or blame it on my driving or some dumb thing like that.
    Other than that, truck has been perfect- new tires and brakes, but nothing major as of 39k miles! Does not get the greatest of mileage, though- about 18.5-19 no matter city or highway.
  • blearmanblearman Posts: 1
    martyg2: #103......

    I also have a '99 s-10 with the same noises in the transmission. my dealers also say that they are the normal noises. i guess we both are hearing little gremlins that chevy wants nothing to do with. I have 15,000 miles on mine and have had to change the pinion bearing seal 3 times. has anyone had this problem. also, two nights ago i had both of my front shocks blow out on me. i baby the truck and it's never seen mud or been over a big bump. i also get the crapy gas mileage everyone is talking about. I've been in communication with the consumer 1-800# at chevy and they are telling me that i'm having isolated problems. while, my mechanic is telling me they are very wide spread.

    So. you guessed it. american truck makers have lost my buisness and i'll down load this lemon as soon as possible..... just interested to see if anyone else is having the same problems...if you are please post them....
  • Wow never heard of a tensioner letting go. They replaced it because maybe they want you as a customer, it is under warranty. BTW what engine in your truck? I have a 99 put new tires on it at 5,000 miles and until last week got 20 mpg but at the last fill up I was getting 23!! 70% freeway with the V6 auto and 3.42 posi.
  • tattoo3tattoo3 Posts: 1
    Does anyone know anything about this type of truck
    that has paint peeling off. My daughter bought her
    first truck, and found out that the paint started
    to peel off. She then found out that it was a primer problem. Is there any recourse with the manufacturer about this. Any help would be appreciated.
  • ggosselinggosselin Posts: 22
    My truck is a 1997 SS w/L35 4.3 and 4L60E auto with locking 3.42 rear end.
    My reason for being skeptical about their hassle free repair is that I have had some pain in the [non-permissible content removed] minor oil leaks- oil cooler adapter to be exact. They (chev dealer) were not too happy about fixing leaks I guess, because they tried to make me pay for it- the three times it had to be fixed- telling me that "maintence items" such as that were not covered under warranty.

    tattoo3- FYI- late 80's and early 90's chev trucks had [non-permissible content removed] paint jobs due to lousy primer- as you have found out. Chevy may still even repaint your truck under their recall deal- the only way to find out is to call GM itself- not the dealer.
  • tbr3847tbr3847 Posts: 4
    I just bought a s-10. It has less than 1000 miles, when I kill the engine there is a reoccurring ping coming from under the hood just wondering what this is and if it is normal can anyone help
  • I once had a 1980 Chevy Silverado that did the same thing after it was about 10 years old. The truck was a two tone while with blue sides. Suddenly it began to "pop" pieces of paint about the size of silver dollars, then pieces about the size of your average flapjack. Before long much of the truck was looking like someone had a black paintball fight with the truck. Looked awful. I've seen all American makes do the same things, all the trucks were 1980-1994. I know of two people who have had their trucks repainted under warranty, both were 1994 Fords.
  • I bought my 95 S-10 (4-cyl auto) used with high miles. Test drove it and I thought it shifted fine. Shortly after absolutely, positively would not shift out of second under full throttle. Changed the fluid, unplugged a few of the cables form it(then would not get out of first). Took to dealer and described problem. They thought it was the fuel filter (change it, it was cheap) until they drove it. They said I would have to bring it back for another inspection. I talked to the mechanic and he said maybe Vehicle Speed Sensor. Ordered one (about $40) and put it in myself. Bingo. Shifts fine under power. Original sensor pick-up was bent. One way to diagnose this is watch speedometer, if it climes steadly to speed and then at the shift point goes BACKWARDS this may be your problem. Shifts to third at approximately 62mph (mine with the bad sensor only reached 60mph with the bad sensor, so close yet so far).
    When testing you trans try not to over rev it because there seems to be no rev limiter. Now to my problem, keeping the above in mind, sometime when going from park to first or reverse it doesn't seem to go into gear like it's slipping. When it's warmed up it works fine. Seems to be more often when it has set for awhile (overnight). Next, this is a 4-cyl with 85,000 has a lot or valve noise (lifters?) when cold (again overnight), however this problem seems more ambient temperature related (summer little or no noise winter lots of rattle) Is this normal or is the mileage catching up with it?
  • afeyafey Posts: 20
    Don't worry about your S10. I have just clicked over the 101K mark today. 5 spd 4 bang 95 chevy bare bones s10. Paid $9,995. Woth every penny!
    It got me through ice, snow, mud, and traffic.
    In college I towed uhauls with heavy amounts of furniture. I moved 12 times during my 4 years of college. This has caused my rear suspension to sag. This truck has never failed me. My battery and brake pads are still the original.

    Here is my breakdown
    Oil change every 4000 miles
    Lube cha. every 7k or 8k
    Air filter every year
    Changed trans fluid at 92k & Diff
    Make sure to grease fitting on transmission if 5sp
    Coolant at 98k
    Fuel Filter at 65k
    New tires at 75k
    Same brakes
    Same battery
    Fan Belt at 100k
    Plugs at 95k

    Thats it. It probably is time for a new clutch.
    This truck will reach 200k+. I commute 95miles per day. This truck never fails. I am sure there are trucks out there such as toyotas and nissans that people claim are better.But they lack the emotional bond that only a Chevy truck can bring. Plus I am proud my truck is American even though nobody is proud of what we produce anymore.
  • hey dont say "I am proud my truck is American even though nobody is proud of what we produce anymore. " key word "nobody" I'm a proud American and a Union worker, where I live I'd say 90-95% of the vehicles are American.
    I also have a S10, awesome truck. I'd never go with an import because of:
    A 12/07/41
    B unfair trade practices (remember the taxes that were to be put on [non-permissible content removed] vehicles unless they opened their market? ie they can sell here but we cant there UNFAIR)
    C price of parts, a $700 alternator? give me a break how many GM/Ford/Dodge alternators could you buy for that money?
    D wimpy trucks with no power or style and I dont care how many plants they build here the bottom line is you buy japanese the money goes to japan and doesnt return
  • amoraamora Posts: 204
    There was an interesting PIE CHART in AUTOMOBILE MAGAZINE regarding import ingrediants of DOMESTIC vehicles. The only vehicle with near 100% US
    components was Saturn with Ford T-BIRD a close 82%, Majority of trucks and components are quite a
    mixture of foreign made....Jeeps made in canada, many GM engines made in Hermosillo, Mexico, Many
    joint ventures of GM/Japan mfrs in US, NUUMI plant in Fremont, Calif makes Toyota mini-trucks, most
    of the HONDAS, NISSANS, TOYOTAS, EURO vehicles are made in US by UAW workers and sold by US salesman and dealers, I realize the overpriced imports need to be that way because most of the money goes to Japan....ie a $10,000 TUNDRA sold for $30,000...

    If you want to buy STRICTLY AMERICAN, I MEAN USA
    ONLY...Buy any '50s, 60's Detroit autos, many are
    still around..By the way, S10 engines are made in
    Hermosillo, Mexico and Brazil....ask GM

    Iam
    S10 diehard myself have had good ones and very horrific bad ones...best '87 S10 EXT CAB 4x4 2.8L
    Tahoe...worst '91 S10 BLAZER 4X4 4DR TAHOE with
    thousands of defects, a real bad LEMON, but have had beautiful luck with '88, 94, and my new 2000
    Xtreme with 6500 trouble free miles...

    I will only buy AMERICAN MADE.....Chevies, Fords,
    Toyotas....
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