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ford power stroke diesel questions



  • mullins87mullins87 Posts: 959
    First off, only buy fuel from the busiest truck stops in your area. That way you are assured of fresh fuel, and fresh fuel is very high on the important list. These truck stops will(should) change between No. 1 and No. 2 Diesel depending on the time of year. No. 1 Diesel is for winter/cold weather use and No. 2 Diesel is for summer/warm weather use.

    Most likely what you are seeing is just labeling on the pump. But you might want to ask someone at the station of your choice.
  • brillmtbbrillmtb Posts: 543
    I am considering the new 6l V8 diesel in a crew cab configuration with 6 3/4 bed. Has anyone heard any details about this new motor?
  • y2k4my2k4m Posts: 9
    is it worth the cost? The Ford parts guy was really trying to sell me one, but everything I saw in my truck info said "don't do it". My thoughts are if it's such a good deal (to increase hp and mileage) why isn't Ford doing this at the factory? Feedback is welcome.
    '02 F350 CC Lariat SWB 4X4
  • lariat1lariat1 Posts: 461
    Generally when you install a "chip" upgrade in the ECM for a diesel it increases the exhaust temperatures which can cause damage if the temperatures get to high, not to mention the added wear and tear of more Hp and Torque.
  • y2k4my2k4m Posts: 9
    I did some more searching on-line and found limited info. (always better to get it from the source). It appears that you do get more hp, but as you said it raises the temperature which will shorten the life of the turbo. Bad trade off in my opinion. Thanks again for the reply!
  • mullins87mullins87 Posts: 959
    You can put a mild chip in your truck without significantly affecting the life of the engine. But get a pyrometer along with that chip. A pyro is a gauge that shows the exhaust gas temperature. It allows you to monitor the temps in realtime so you can alter the way you are driving at that moment in order to keep the temps down. Noboby that I have ever talked to has had any trouble with their EGT's when using a mild chip. It seems only those who run the wilder ones that have trouble. Stay with a reputable chip maker that has considerable diesel experience. Right off the top of my head I can think of four manufacturers that would be good choices; Banks, SuperChip, Western Diesel and Hypertech. IMO, Banks and Western Diesel would be the best of the four, but the other two are excellent companies and they have a tremendous number of chips out on the road. My recommedation: Drop about $500 for a mild chip and a pyro. You won't be sorry. If you are concerned about the warranty, buy the Ford chip. There's no way they could void your warranty if you were using their product installed by their technicians.
  • mullins87mullins87 Posts: 959
    Sorry lariat1, I meant to address that last post to y2k4m.
  • bmaigebmaige Posts: 140
    I have seen posts in which people say a PSD should run 300,000 miles, but "should" and "will" are two different things. Is there anyone out there that has a PSD with over 100,000 miles on it? How about 200,000? 300,000? What expenses, other than normal oil and filter changes have you experienced?

    I would like to know the actual experiences of owners. Right now I am in a quandry as to whether to go with gas or diesel, and if there are cases of these engines lasting as long as some say they "should" it would be a "nobrainer" for me. I drive a truck long and tow heavy loads on occasion with it, but not enough to warrant the additional cost of a diesel for that alone.

    Also, I've heard of a 100,000 mile engine warranty. Ford's specs don't show it. Is that a Ford or International warranty--or does it not even exist?

    I would appreciate any help anyone can offer on these questions.
  • markbuckmarkbuck Posts: 1,021
    If you don't keep the coolant treatment up on the powerstrokes, you will have cavitation problems...

    I only got 180,000 out of my last ford diesel. This was before it was readily known about the coolant issues.
  • mullins87mullins87 Posts: 959
    I am on my first PSD, a '99 F-350. I have nearly 109k miles on it. The only repairs made to date are a broken clock spring in the steering column, not PSD related, and the infamous turbo bolts that fall out. The bolts were fixed under my Ford powertrain 100k mile warranty at 97k miles. Other than that, only routine maintenance. Like markbuck said, keep up with the coolant treatment. Check it everytime you change the oil and adjust as necessary. I would guess that most early PSD deaths are caused by cavitation and the resulting pinholes in the cylinder walls. Just do the maintenance, use good fluids and filters, and use common sense when operating it, and the thing will last you a long time.
  • rayrockrayrock Posts: 14
    i'm interested in a diesel pick up but can't find any mileage figures. i don't tow but like the durability stories i hear. anyone with mpg numbers?
  • mullins87mullins87 Posts: 959
    I have a '99 F-350 PSD SC LB DRW 4x2 6-speed with a 3.73 ratio. I get 18.5 mpg empty.
  • jdtopperjdtopper Posts: 58
    I have a 350 CC LWB 4x4 PSD with a hard tonneau cover. I can confirm Mullin's numbers - 18 to 19 on the freeway at 65 mph, about 16 or so combined highway/city mileage.

    I've seen numbers as good as 21 mpg if I'm on a long trip on 50 - 55 mph roads, and as low as 16 highway when I'm flogging it at 80. I don't have any numbers for towing/loaded, but it's absolutely certain that you'll get better mileage with your diesel than with an equivalent gas engine.
  • I have a '00 F250 Crew Cab w/ a PSD and have had very poor luck at fixing a "popping" or "clunking" sound from the underbody. My dealer has replaced the cab mounts and spring isolators several times and sometimes it's better, but still comes back after time. Any similar problems or issues???
  • ccdickccdick Posts: 1
    Considering buy a psd. Reading this board I see mention of an infamous turbo bolt problem. I am totally ignorant here. Please explain. Also if you will please explain cavitation cause and how to prevent.
    My primary use of this truck is a towing and everyday vehicle. Can't make up my mind between crew or extended cab. Any feed back there? LB or SB. Thanks
  • mullins87mullins87 Posts: 959
    Good choice! The turbo bolt problem is a persistent one, but fairly easy and cheap to fix. First, look at the turbo where the two halves come together. The compressor side will be fairly shiny(silvery-gold color) and the exhaust side, not sure what that side is called, will be rusty. There will be four bolts just bairly sticking out of their holes with the heads facing the compressor side. The heads are not your typical hex heads, they are of a 12 point design. If they are loose, or missing in some cases, then you can get a turbo bolt upgrade kit at the Ford dealership for around $35 to $40 dollars. You can replace the top two bolts easily as they are out in the open. The bottom two have a pedestal bolt, one on each side, in the way. Once the top two are in, take out ONLY ONE of the pedestal bolts and replace the turbo bolt, replace that pedestal bolt. Then do the same for the other. The lower bolt on the back side is the most difficult since you can't see it. DO NOT REMOVE BOTH PEDESTAL BOLTS AT THE SAME TIME AS THE TURBO HOUSING COULD/WILL SHIFT CAUSING THE TWO HALVES TO BECOME MISALIGNED, DAMAGING THE SHAFT. Just ask the parts guy if you have any questions.

    The cavitation issue is caused by tiny air bubbles forming around the cylinders while the engine is running. These bubbles form due to the rapid expansion/contraction of the cylinder walls due to the high compression. A bubble can form as the cylinder wall contracts, a result of the low pressure area caused by the contraction. As the cylinder wall expands, the air bubble is subjected to extreme pressures causing it to implode violently enough to actually eat away at the metal. To prevent this, Ford has a product called FW-16. This is a coolant additive designed to prevent cavitation as well as prevent other common cooling system woes. This stuff will allow you to run the coolant for 200k miles, or 24 months. I think.

    I have a Supercab and wish I had held out for a Crewcab. I admit, sometimes the added foot or so could be cumbersome, but you know, I don't think it is worth the trade off in lost backseat space.

    Get the longbed, especially if you are to be pulling a 5th wheel or wide nosed gooseneck. You really need that extra foot in front of the rear axle when doing tight manuevers. Otherwise, you might hit the cab with the corner of the trailer.

    I have a '99 F-350 PSD DRW SC LB 4x2 6-speed. I have 110k miles and I love it the more I drive it!!! It is mostly stock, a few small exceptions, but nothing major, yet.

    What are you wanting? New, used? Good luck and welcome in advance to the all addicting world of diesel ownership. I am welcoming you now because once you get diesel in your blood, you'll never go back.
  • nobitenobite Posts: 3
    I've been lurking here, reading and thinking and then going to Ford-diesel and doing the same. I am nearing a decision to jump into the diesel experience, but I have some concerns. My first set of concerns are regarding choosing the right model.

    Needs and wants: 1) pulling a 9,000# gooseneck horse trailer; 2) extended cab (not crew cab); 3) long bed; 4) 4x4.

    It would be ideal if I could meet the above needs with an F-250 as that would also fit into my garage and would be handy getting into and out of my friend's barn when hauling hay. But, I have been informed that the weight of the diesel, plus the extended cab, long bed and 4x4 leaves not too much left before I exceed the GVWR capacity. This really surprises me, but I don't have enough experience to disagree. Anyone here have thoughts on this subject?

    My second set of concerns centers on buying a used truck, specifically a PSD. I have read about the many horrors that can come from the Ford trannys if they are not maintained perfectly. (Heck, some of the stories sound like even good maintenance won't prevent these babies from breaking down!) And, I'm sure there are other possible weak points to consider that I have not read about yet. So, I'm looking for some good tips on how to evaluate a used PSD --- whether on a car lot or from an individual. I've never owned any diesel so please start with the basics! Other than checking for wheel balance, breaks, unusual sounds, body integrity - what should I be looking for? How can I best not buy myself a bunch of hidden problems?

    Thanks for your thoughts!

    western KY
  • wpalkowskiwpalkowski Posts: 493
    You can exceed the "legal" capacity of the F250 pretty quickly. Your payload gets eaten up by passengers, gear, fuel, etc. doesn't leave much for the gooseneck and hitch. The F250 can easily pull it and probably stop it too, but if you ever have an accident while towing your insurance company may leave you dangling in the breeze if you're overloaded.

    From 2001 spec sheets:

    Max payload F250, SC, LWB, 4x2 is 3355 lbs., with 4x4 it's 4015 lbs.
    F350, SC, LWB, SRW, 4x2 is 4435 lbs, 4x4 is 4015 lbs. Gives you an extra 1100 lbs to play with. Even better, an F350 Dooley will give 5510 lbs 4x2, 5085 lbs as a 4x4, plus you get extra stability for towing.

    These payloads all assume you have base 5.4L V8 gasser, XL model. (I think they use weight of manual tranny, not auto.) Not sure what A/C and other options weigh. For their calculations they assume there's only the 175 lb driver in the vehicle. V10 weighs ~200 lbs more than V8. the 7.8L PSD weighs almost 600 lbs more than V8 gasser - so you've got to subtract that weight from your capacity too.

    I have a F350, v10, CC, so can't really comment on PSDs too much. From my buddy who has one though - most important is regular oil changes, and keeping the coolant additive up to prevent cavitation and pitting of cylinder walls. Biggest enemy of auto tranny is heat. From 2000 on, Superduties had bigger radiators and supplemental tranny coolers. So unless truck pulled a lot a big hills at slow speeds where wasn't enough airflow through coolers, it probably wouldn't have cooked transmission with newer stock cooling.
    "Used" is always kind of a crap shoot. I suppose if you find a truck you like, you could take the VIN and check with CarFax on accidents/insurance claims. Also you could have a Ford service department check to find out its service records. (Not sure how agreeable they are to that though.) At least maybe find out if it was serviced regularly while under warranty.
  • mullins87mullins87 Posts: 959
    Do you know the loaded ball weight of your gooseneck? I have a dually, so I have no problems, but friends who have the 250 similar to what you describe tell me that they only have about 1,500 lbs of hitch weight to play with before they are overloaded. The 250's and 350's, both with PSD's, will have the same GCWR.

    In my experience, I was able to buy a 350 cheaper than a 250. Why, demand. Most people who like the Superduty's don't want a 1-ton, even a SRW model. Unless you're in a bind and need it now, wait for the perfect truck to come along. It will eventually. A SRW F-350 has the same dimensions as the 250, but has an extra 1,000 lbs of payload capacity.
  • wpalkowskiwpalkowski Posts: 493
    Max payload F250, SC, LWB, 4x2 is 3355 lbs., with 4x4 it's 2905 lbs.

    Again, that's an empty truck, no fuel, no passengers, without the 600 lb difference for the PSD. Like Mullins said, doesn't leave too much to play around with.
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