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Buick Park Avenue Maintenance & Repair

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  • 1994 buick park avenue fully loaded.

    okay, my buick started off fine, then about 6 months ago, the battery just started draining. sometimes, it would take a couple of days, but since the battery's got warn down, it now takes a few hour to go dead. i replaced the battery 2 times.(big waste of money lol) the car will start, but it needs to receive a jump to do so. it will run with the battery unplugged, so its not the alternator. the vats system acts up to. like sometimes it will take me 10-20 minutes to start it cause of that. when i try to start it when its dying, it makes a strange very fast clicking sound in the relays. and the ac turns on when it wont start aswell. when it does start, everything is fine except for the light indicator(the thingy that tells u when a bulb is out). the 8 red lights on it blink fast. i checked all the bulbs, they are all fine. someone told me that the computer under the dash could be bad, but i pulled that, and everything was fine. i even started it without the entire computer hooked up, and it made no difference to anything. my buick sat for a few months, due to lack of money. but i have the money now, and i really want to get this thing running correctly. any help would be much appreciated. thanks in advanced.
  • the rear strut line broke, which is what i thought was causing the drain, but it didnt make any difference. its been unplugged for months. the blower motor i have heard on after i turned the car off, but not very often. and the throttle has slight instability when i first turn it on(slight revving, plus kicking when i put it in drive). if this is the problem, how could i go about repairing it?
  • I would take it by your local auto store, most of them will get their Actron Scan tool and scan it for you for free, they will let you know whatever code it has stored.

    As for your stall problem..
    I take it you are over 100k miles?
    If so have you ever had your fuel filter changed?
    I'd do that, and then have all 6 of those fuel injectors swapped for some re-manufactured ones.
    That or have a shop flush them professionally for you, I'm betting you will notice a big difference after getting this done.
    I say this because I had a similar stall problem for years, and I found out I had two bad injectors, my car was at 134k when it finally died due to the fuel injectors.

    As for the car wanting to go on its own, I read about that somewhere, I believe it may have to do with the Idle Air Control Sensor, the Throttle Position Sensor, or maybe it was the Mass Airflow Sensor.
    The IAC & MAF can be easily cleaned off if they are a bit carbon fouled.
    Just throwing some ideas out there, I am no mechanic, so maybe somebody else out there knows how to better help you.
  • They had to mean the MAF Sensor as imidazol97 mentioned.
    That will be attached to the throttle body, and should be easy to remove, it should have 2-3 screws.
    It can be cleaned with MAF Cleaner available at any auto part store, just DO NOT touch the little metal elements you will see once you remove it, or damage them in any way.

    I'd also consider having the EGR cleaned, as imidazol had another good suggestion, I have a 96' Park Ave and had some rough idle issue for a long time, I found out my MAF was a little dirty, my EGR was occasionally sticking open due to so much carbon build up.
    I also had a Idle Air Control Valve that was carbon fouled, so you may want to have it cleaned as well.
    Here is a pic of what it looks like.
    http://z.about.com/w/experts/Auto-Parts-3319/2009/09/IAC.jpg

    Last, but not least, if the car has over 100k miles on it, consider having the fuel injectors flushed, if not swapped out for 6 re-manufactured ones, you should be able to get 6 of them for 160.00-180.00.
    http://www.injectorwarehouse.com
  • Hi guys, I have a gorgeous diamond white 2000 Ultra with all options, and about 115K on the clock, and its great, but several weeks ago it lost the #3 fuel injector and set that code, so into the shop it went. They replaced the injector and also fixed a small oil leak they found by replacing the intake manifold, and S.C.gasket, they also did a coolant flush.

    Now the problem started, on the way home from the shop, and the car running great, it set the code PO-401. My tester reads that as "EGR insufficient flow" (This is a first). So back it went to the repair and smog shop. After 3 weeks in the shop, they say its operating fine, including the EGR system, but the computer will reset the PO-401 ever time its driven. GM has no computer flash (re-programing ?) for this code.
    Everything in the EGR system was replaced, some items twice, plus all lines cleaned. Even the intake manifold was removed again to make sure the new gaskets were not at fault.
    It has never had a PO-401 code before.
    Any ideas? I live in Calif and must find a solution.
    Thanks Mike.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,232
    some ideas:

    check for leaks in the exhaust system

    check for clogged inlet or outlet ports TO the EGR.

    Also:

    Check for the following conditions:

    Vacuum restriction to the MAP sensor. A restriction to the MAP sensor can cause the EGR flow test to fail due to insufficient MAP changes being monitored during the test. Check for objects blocking the vacuum to the MAP sensor. Also check for kinked or pinched MAP sensor vacuum hoses (if equipped.)

    Poor connection at PCM or EGR Valve. Inspect harness connectors for backed out terminals, improper mating, broken locks, improperly formed or damaged terminals, and poor terminal to wire connection.

    Damaged harness. Inspect the wiring harness for damage. If the harness appears to be OK, observe the actual EGR position display on the scan tool while moving connectors and wiring harnesses related to the EGR valve. A change in the display will indicate the location of the malfunction.

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

  • ccp2ccp2 Posts: 1
    I think I found the right window channel rubber for my 98' park ave. passenger side but want to know how to change it out first so it will work right( I had a tec.. at collision specialists install one on driver side related to a collision) but I got laid off recently and need to do it myself. The window that was fixed used to jump out and raise with trouble till this was done. That's all that was changed on that door.
  • I have the same car. You just need to find a mechanic that knows how to do it. It is not worth fixing to him, because it will probably cost what the car is worth. I would fix it for my mother.

    Anyways, if you ever want to sell the car in the future please email me.

    Thanks,
    Lou

    my email is diputs5643@aol.com
  • Hello,

    I do know that this info will help you because I have the same problem. Well hope you can save some money.

    Here we go. Before, buying the body control module, you should check these six things.
    1) check to see if wires come together in the harness
    2) check camshaft sensor wires
    3) check crankshaft sensor wires (2 and 3 check to see if wires come together in harness)and change and or retape wiring. Insulation wears out and they touch. Follow the wires from the cam and the crank and make sure they are not touching.
    4)Check to see in you have a blown amp
    5) Check fuel injection wires and make sure there not touching nothing
    6) Finally, check on the 1194 Buick recall for the (starter).

    The check engine lite would come on for all these problems, especially if its the wiring....sometimes the blank rapidly and then sometimes one or two lights stay lit.

    Hope this help everyone out. Pay it forward and let me know the outcome.
    Babysis
    5)
  • This car has 45000 miles on it Ran good for many years but 2 years ago it quit running replaced computer then replaced cam sensor ran ok but quit again diagnosed it again said crank sensor replaced but quit again now it says crank and cam sensor need to be replaced.
    Please help
  • When I shut off my 96 park ave the climate control continues to stay on. The AC and heat can be turned off but the exterior temperature display stays there, and the light indicating that the climate control is off stays on also. Now it is draining my battery. Does anyone have any suggestions?
  • 99 BPA, Heat or Air is only coming thru the Vent. Little or no air flow thru the defrost or floor. Last time i had it in for this they said the door was stuck and they used something to nudge it and it worked.
    What opening or where is the door located that controls the air flow from the vent to the defrost or floor?
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,367
    edited December 2011
    99 PA HVAC

    #52 is the actuator for the air door that switches flow from defrost to dash to floor.
    #51 may also be an actuator for driver or passenger. Your car has dual air controls, I assume...

    The actuators have white parts that show after you take off the hush plastic panel under the dash. By turning on the Key and operating the controls, you should see movement if the actuator is moving.

    Check connectors for poor contacts by reseating them.
  • How difficult is it to change the water pump?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,232
    edited December 2011
    Book says 4.7 hours

    The only snag I see here is how to support the engine if you don't have the special tool---you'll have to figure out a way to do that safely.

    Disconnect the negative battery cable.
    Remove the bolts from the A/C compressor splash shield.
    Remove the splash shield.
    Drain the coolant.
    Remove the supercharger drive belt.
    Remove the drive belt.
    Remove the coil pack. Position the coil pack out of the way.
    Remove the supercharger belt tensioner.
    Install the engine support fixture J 28467A
    Remove the engine mount.
    Remove the power steering pump.
    Remove the engine mount bracket.
    Remove the idler pulley.

    Remove the water pump pulley.
    Remove the water pump.
    Clean all of the gasket mating surfaces.

    Using a new gasket, install the water pump on the engine.
    Notice: Refer to Fastener Notice in Service Precautions.

    Install the water pump bolts.
    Tighten the bolts (1) to 15 Nm (11 ft. lbs.).
    Tighten the bolts (2) to 30 Nm (22 ft. lbs.).

    Install the water pump pulley. Tighten the bolts to 13 Nm (115 inch lbs.).
    Install the idler pulley.
    Install the engine mount bracket.
    Install the power steering pump.
    Install the engine mount.
    Remove the engine support fixture.
    Install the supercharger belt tensioner.
    Install the coil pack.
    Install the drive belt.
    Install the supercharger drive belt.
    Refill the coolant.
    Install the A/C compressor splash shield.
    Connect the negative battery cable.
    Check for coolant leaks.

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

  • hello I was wondering what the problem was I have the same problem please help
  • buickowner3buickowner3 Posts: 2
    edited January 2012
    Our car is hesitating during shifting and when accelerating has a bogged down feel. The RPM gauge floats up and down during this. The check engine soon light is also on. My husband stopped by an auto store and they scanned it and said it gave a general catalytic converter code. Anyone have any more specific ideas on what it could be? Or does it sound like the catalytic converter needs to be replaced? Letting off the gas pedal and easing it back down was helping, however, the problem has escalated over time. Thanks!
  • After a normal use of the car I pull into my garage and turnied off the ignition. I noticed that the radio went off before I opeined the door which was very unusual. When I tried to open the trunk with the remote it wouldn't open and when I went back and opened the car door I noticed the overhead security lights didn't come on. I realized then that I had a total power loss. I went into the house to think about things and a few minutes later I went out to figure out what was wrong. Much to my surprise the car started on the first try and all appeared normal. The failure acted like some sort of ciruit protection interruped power and when things cooled off power was restored.

    Concerned about the possibilty of something that might start a fire I moved the car of the garage and looked under the hood for loose conections and everything seemed normal. I put the car back into the garage. When I drove the car a few hours later I noticed a once per second clicking sound from the drivers side underdash which lasted for several minutes. I have heard this sound occasionally over the years but have never had a power failure assoicated with it.

    After reading several posts about problems envolving the auto headlight control I know that when I enter the garage my auto headlights come on. Although I didn't specifically notice at the time my headlights probably came on when had the power failure and I think they came on later when I heard the clicking sound.

    What is the likely cause of this momentary failure and what can I do to avoid it and the concern that the next power might not be restored?.
  • 2000 Park Avenue with 186,000 miles. A week ago, while driving on the interstate, it quit and I coasted to a stop. Repair shop replaced the battery and tightened the cables. They checked the alternator and it was fine. Ran fine for several days after, but I did not have it on the interstate. Several days ago, while driving to work on the interstate, it quit again, like first time. I coasted to a stop. Had it towed to the same repair shop. Shop could not get it to stay running, but finally pushed it in. Now, car will start and stays running for an hour. Shop can't duplicate the problem, even when they take it on the interstate. Fuel pump pressure is good and computer is not showing any codes that would indicate problems with the oxygen mixture.
    Other known problems are: struts and shocks need replacing, front wheel bearings need replacing, engine mounts look to need replacing, ABS light remains lit(has for several years...no braking issues), fuel gauge sensor in fuel tank is going bad and indicates wrong fuel gauge readings. The shop does not believe any of these items is related to the car quitting. Shop had a GM Master Mechanic check it out and he said it was fine and not sure why it would quit like that.
    Any advice would be appreciated.
  • bowfanbowfan Posts: 55
    Hello bowecho7

    Most likely a crank position sensor. (CKP) Y2k models seem to have the largest problem with this part failure, according to what I've read.

    It's a pretty common problem, not sure why a GM MM wouldn't have known.

    It's about a $30 part at your local autoparts store + labor. I've known some mechanics to install for $50, but that is probably below normal rate.

    I agree none of the other issues you listed would be the culprit.

    Unfortunately the problem shows up intermittantly, but will get worse over time until it won't restart right away, it may pause for 15 mins.

    In the past I just put the car in neutral (very carefully :surprise: ) , restarted the car, and dropped it back into drive. Probably not as safe as pulling over and stopping, but if there isn't anywhere to pull over, it is an option that works.

    I'm 99.94% sure that will fix it and you will go back to being comfortable in relying on it.
  • Did you ever fix this problem with the air conditioner?PLMK
  • 1998 Buick Park Avenue

    Our A/C is delivering cold air on the driver's side and hot, hot air on the passenger side. The floor fan is very hot air, too. Your help is greatly appreciated.
  • My 92 PA is missing at 50 MPH. It runs good until then unless you accelerate hard. New coils and ignition module. Any else seen this? If so what was the fix. Thanks for your input.
  • Forgot to add this. I have replaced the fuel filter and the air filter on this with no change. Next I intend to change the plugs and wires.
  • Start with the plugs. Put in AC Delco platinums, gapped properly (I had a 91,95 (3 of them),and a 96, all gapped to 0.060"). Put a very little Never Seize on the threads before putting in the new plugs. Take it for drive, try to go up a bridge or something with a decent incline to see if it misfires or bucks, AND the same conditions you experienced previously with the problem. If that doesn't solve the problem, put in a new set of AC Delco ignition wires, Lifetime Warranty, Amazon has the best prices. Put them in VERY carefully, one at a time, replacing the wire you just took out with the same length new wire. Put a very little di-electric silicon grease into the boot on the spark plug end using a Q-Tip. Test drive again. A half a pound of fifties says your problem is solved. If not, we'll dig further. Please keep us posted. Regards, Joe
  • My 99 park avenue just started blowing cold air on the driver's side, but will still blow hot on the passenger side. This occurs in auto mode, heat mode, with the passenger climate set to hot or cold or off.
    For the past 2 years I have heard something in the dash that sounds like a door trying to open or close, almost like the noise a blood pressure cup makes when pumping up, but everything in the climate control has worked just fine until this past week.
    So, I think an actuator is stuck or broken based on what I can find on various websites. Where is this so called actuator? I know it's under the dash somewhere, but can anyone point me in the right direction? Any help would be appreciated.
    Thanks,
    Mike
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