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Buick Park Avenue Maintenance & Repair

11718202223

Comments

  • After a normal use of the car I pull into my garage and turnied off the ignition. I noticed that the radio went off before I opeined the door which was very unusual. When I tried to open the trunk with the remote it wouldn't open and when I went back and opened the car door I noticed the overhead security lights didn't come on. I realized then that I had a total power loss. I went into the house to think about things and a few minutes later I went out to figure out what was wrong. Much to my surprise the car started on the first try and all appeared normal. The failure acted like some sort of ciruit protection interruped power and when things cooled off power was restored.

    Concerned about the possibilty of something that might start a fire I moved the car of the garage and looked under the hood for loose conections and everything seemed normal. I put the car back into the garage. When I drove the car a few hours later I noticed a once per second clicking sound from the drivers side underdash which lasted for several minutes. I have heard this sound occasionally over the years but have never had a power failure assoicated with it.

    After reading several posts about problems envolving the auto headlight control I know that when I enter the garage my auto headlights come on. Although I didn't specifically notice at the time my headlights probably came on when had the power failure and I think they came on later when I heard the clicking sound.

    What is the likely cause of this momentary failure and what can I do to avoid it and the concern that the next power might not be restored?.
  • 2000 Park Avenue with 186,000 miles. A week ago, while driving on the interstate, it quit and I coasted to a stop. Repair shop replaced the battery and tightened the cables. They checked the alternator and it was fine. Ran fine for several days after, but I did not have it on the interstate. Several days ago, while driving to work on the interstate, it quit again, like first time. I coasted to a stop. Had it towed to the same repair shop. Shop could not get it to stay running, but finally pushed it in. Now, car will start and stays running for an hour. Shop can't duplicate the problem, even when they take it on the interstate. Fuel pump pressure is good and computer is not showing any codes that would indicate problems with the oxygen mixture.
    Other known problems are: struts and shocks need replacing, front wheel bearings need replacing, engine mounts look to need replacing, ABS light remains lit(has for several years...no braking issues), fuel gauge sensor in fuel tank is going bad and indicates wrong fuel gauge readings. The shop does not believe any of these items is related to the car quitting. Shop had a GM Master Mechanic check it out and he said it was fine and not sure why it would quit like that.
    Any advice would be appreciated.
  • bowfanbowfan Posts: 55
    Hello bowecho7

    Most likely a crank position sensor. (CKP) Y2k models seem to have the largest problem with this part failure, according to what I've read.

    It's a pretty common problem, not sure why a GM MM wouldn't have known.

    It's about a $30 part at your local autoparts store + labor. I've known some mechanics to install for $50, but that is probably below normal rate.

    I agree none of the other issues you listed would be the culprit.

    Unfortunately the problem shows up intermittantly, but will get worse over time until it won't restart right away, it may pause for 15 mins.

    In the past I just put the car in neutral (very carefully :surprise: ) , restarted the car, and dropped it back into drive. Probably not as safe as pulling over and stopping, but if there isn't anywhere to pull over, it is an option that works.

    I'm 99.94% sure that will fix it and you will go back to being comfortable in relying on it.
  • Did you ever fix this problem with the air conditioner?PLMK
  • 1998 Buick Park Avenue

    Our A/C is delivering cold air on the driver's side and hot, hot air on the passenger side. The floor fan is very hot air, too. Your help is greatly appreciated.
  • My 92 PA is missing at 50 MPH. It runs good until then unless you accelerate hard. New coils and ignition module. Any else seen this? If so what was the fix. Thanks for your input.
  • Forgot to add this. I have replaced the fuel filter and the air filter on this with no change. Next I intend to change the plugs and wires.
  • Start with the plugs. Put in AC Delco platinums, gapped properly (I had a 91,95 (3 of them),and a 96, all gapped to 0.060"). Put a very little Never Seize on the threads before putting in the new plugs. Take it for drive, try to go up a bridge or something with a decent incline to see if it misfires or bucks, AND the same conditions you experienced previously with the problem. If that doesn't solve the problem, put in a new set of AC Delco ignition wires, Lifetime Warranty, Amazon has the best prices. Put them in VERY carefully, one at a time, replacing the wire you just took out with the same length new wire. Put a very little di-electric silicon grease into the boot on the spark plug end using a Q-Tip. Test drive again. A half a pound of fifties says your problem is solved. If not, we'll dig further. Please keep us posted. Regards, Joe
  • My 99 park avenue just started blowing cold air on the driver's side, but will still blow hot on the passenger side. This occurs in auto mode, heat mode, with the passenger climate set to hot or cold or off.
    For the past 2 years I have heard something in the dash that sounds like a door trying to open or close, almost like the noise a blood pressure cup makes when pumping up, but everything in the climate control has worked just fine until this past week.
    So, I think an actuator is stuck or broken based on what I can find on various websites. Where is this so called actuator? I know it's under the dash somewhere, but can anyone point me in the right direction? Any help would be appreciated.
    Thanks,
    Mike
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 17,742
    edited February 2012
    Take off the plastic cover under the dash, a few screws. Look up and watch the actuator #52 in this diagram. It will have white parts that show up and should rotate as you change the temperature with the key ON and change the settings on the dash controls. I am guessing you'll find it's not working smoothly and rotating its full range. You might even be able to manually help it move to the heat position. Actuators are held on by one or two screws and easily replaceable.

    HVAC box diagram

    Page of parts numbers corresponding to diagram


    Good luck and let me know what you find.

    The earlier actuators on the leSabres before 2000 had a white plastic gear inside that cracks. Then the gear slips on the hub it's a press fit on. The hub doesn't move the arm that moves the blend door or other doors. I repaired mine with superglue to hold the gear on the hub. I placed the split in the gear so it wouldn't meet the small driving gear during the 200 deg. range of motion controlled by a nub on the hub shaft on the outside of the box.

    This message has been approved.

  • Thank you sir. I printed the diagram and will have to wait until Saturday morning to get it apart. I'll let you know after that.
  • O.K., I found three actuators under the dash. The one on the passenger's side is the one that has been making lots of noice all along, number 23 in the diagram. Then if I'm right, number 51 moves the doors to control the air to the floor, vents, defrost, this one is working fine. It must be the number 52 like you said, but I didn't take it out yet until I could figure out if this is causing the problem. The replacement is $110 for the driver's side and $155 for the passenger's side.
  • I got number 52 out tonight and manually changed the temp on the driver's side, now I have heat again on both sides. I ordered one today, but for now I have the ability to change it so tomorrow morning at 4:30 it won't be so cold.
    Thanks again,
    Mike
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 17,742
    Thanks for letting us know that it worked.

    Are you able to move the blend door after the actuator is off and have the blend door stay at the heat you pick even when the blower fan puts pressure on it? Or do you have to fasten it with a rubber band or string or something to hold it against the air pressure?

    This message has been approved.

  • I thought that I had it set to be on heat all the time without the actuator on there, but driving in this morning it was blowing cold air again. I guess it's because of what you pointed out above. The new actuator should be here tomorrow, the dealer had it for $286 in stock, $86 at Dorman.
    I should have it on Saturday morning, and I'll let you know.
    Thanks again,
    Mike
  • This thing's got me stumped. I put the new actuator on last night, car was off, HVAC off. Bolted it on, connected it and started the car. When I turned on the heat and changed the temp, the exact same thing is happening. I looked under the dash and the actuator isn't moving at all. Is there a way to check if the part is bad, or maybe the temperature sensor on the driver's side is bad.
    Any ideas?
    Thanks,
    Mike
  • I have read all the problem swith the opening mechanism on the PA doors. My right rear door would not open (from the outside or inside) so I took off the door panel to check the entire open / close / lock mechanism. I was able to open the door by giggling the linkage leading to the lock actuator, door latch and child door lock parts. When I inspected everything was in tack; the linkage was all hooked up and I couldn't see any broken parts. In fact, I also took it to my dealer with the door panel off and had two of their mechanics inspect everything...both said everything looked OK. I put the door back together and it worked for a few hours; opened, closed, locked, etc. All of sudden it again wouldn't open, from the outside or inside. I don't want to just start replacing parts - the outside door handle is fine. I've been told it could be the lock actuator, the latch or the child safety lock. Any help would be appreciated as I prefer not to just replace parts randomly. Thank you!
  • After reading a number of posts, this is how I fixed the climate control on the driver's side in my 99 park avenue:
    Disconnect negative battery terminal for 5 minutes
    Reconnect and turn ignition on, the HVAC should set to 75
    turn off climate control and wait 5 minutes
    When I started the car, I was back in business.
    Fun.
  • lewis17lewis17 Posts: 1
    I understand that engine RPM is limited to 4000 in park/neutral. However, RPM on my car is also limited in drive. If I do max acceleration, RPM stops and holds at 4000 in 2nd gear. I must let up on accelerator in order to shift to 3rd. Dealer suggested a new catalytic converter, which was installed today. This helped somewhat with power getting to 4000, but did not eliminate the 4000 limit. What to do next?
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