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Buick Park Avenue Maintenance & Repair

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  • This car is driving me nuts! It has the auto, dual a/c. I'm having a problem with the compressor disengaging after about 2 minutes after "clearing" a "00" code. It runs and cools good til then. I can then repeat this cycle indefinitely. I've replaced the programmer twice. The first one(original)didn't work at all. The new replacement kept giving me a code 40, driver side blend door. This one corrected that problem. The clutch relay seems to be losing the signal from the PCM. When it does this, the control panel goes from "dual zone" to "econ" and the comp. disengages. The only way to get it to return to cooling is to erase what reads "00", no codes. It has passed all the procedures laid out in Mitchell's repair manual. All help appreciated, please!!
  • i bought a 91 buick park avenue a month ago,, the car goes completly dead while driving all lights everything shuts down , i have to drift to the side of the road and restart the car,, my macanic thinks it's the ignition switch? and want's to charge me $110 for the swithch and another $200 to put it in is this reasonable? :(
  • Hey, my 94 had all kinds of probs, including what you mention, pulled left trim on floor and there is a ground plug down there, under the driver's side trim panel by the seat in the floor part of door opening, I hooked all these grounds together and eliminated the plug, and it worked.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,528
  • bob2bob2 Posts: 10
    I recently had the battery replaced and I noticed after driving for awhile that my gas guage needle had dropped way below the empty mark. The dealership told me that this happens when you disconnect the battery terminals and I would have to bring it in and they could fix it for $100. Anybody have any idea what's going on. Thanks in advance for your help.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,528
    I've read about people drilling a small hole in the plastic in a good location and using a 90 degree paperclip to lift the needle back over the post.
  • Have a 91 Park Avenue, need to know what circuits ( componets ) are controlled by quad driver B, as reading is HI and ECM has been replaced.
  • Looking for guidance on how to access and then change the fuel filter on a 1990 Buick Park Avenue.
  • I have the same problem and the dealer cost for the part is now $158 with lowest internet price $120.

    I took out the ashtray assembly (4 bolt/screws) propped it up on a box (the connectors are difficult to remove) and looked at the latching mechanism. There is a bump which pushes the connector dowm allowing it to engage the tongue. Mine wasn't broken or worn, just wasn't engaging well. I built up the bump with JB Weld. Now when the latch is pushed in it is forced down for a more secure hold. I don't know if this is permanent fix, but it is about $115 less than buying the part and only took about a hour - mostly getting the 4 screws out and back in. Use a 7mm socket and with 1/4" rachet for the top two and the same with a 5" wobble extension for the bottom two.
  • I have a '94 Park Avenue that the ride levelers don't always kick in when I load something in the trunk, or take a gravel curve a little to fast. It seems that I have to park it, turn it off and sit for a bit until the leveler kick in, then it sort of clunks as the car rises. Can anyone tell me what the problem could be, I have called the body shop, and they tell me that it will cost around $600 to $800 dollars to fix, but my neighbor kid says no way. I can't afford that much, and I do love my Park Avenue.
  • When using the automatic window on the driver side of car there is a weird kind of groaning sound coming out when its going down. It is also going down slower than usual. could this be the motor? It kind of sounds like its rubbing up against something inside. I dont even know where to go to take the door panel off without damaging the car. I also am now having trouble with my driver side seat warmer it doesn't come on anymore this just started also what could this be its getting cold and my wife is not happy. Can anyone help me?
  • hi

    I just bought 2002 ultra with 79000 miles this is my second. I had a 1998 love the cars.While driving the service stability system EXP 54 message comes on at random. some times with 10miles after starting up and others at 50miles. I did not get the manual is this just regular maintaince? What compontents are involved in the stablity system?

    thanks Steve Wiater
  • I have a 1995 Buick Park Ave. It has climate control on passenger side. This summer when I turned on the AC the drivers side got cool but most of the time the passenger side was hot (the climate control button did not help). Sometimes it did get cool though. Now that is winter it is doing the opposite. I have heat on my side but not the passenger. It has worked one time only. Any ideas on what could be wrong. Hopefully I can fix it myself.
    If so, HOW?
  • pmtrepmtre Posts: 55
    I have the same problem with 97 Olds Regency, I've read other post regarding the problem and they suggest a vacuum leak or stuck cable or vent door. It sounds like it could be easy to fix.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,528
    I think it's more than vacuum. That would prevent the vane inside the heater box from closing to give you heat out the floor or from having the bilevel work. Usually the problem with vacuum tube connector failure was no control over the vane closing off the defroster which forces the air out the dash vents; this is usually used in summer for AC and noticed then.

    I think the problem is related to the actuators for the main heat vane and the actuator for the passenger heat vane. I can find pictures of actuators for the passenger which have a cracked nylon gear in them. This causes the actuator to lose its index setting. When the car starts up asking for heat the actuators are cycled to full heat and then moved to a modulated setting. From what I can glean if the passenger actuator doesn't move correctly it sets a code which causes the dash AC control unit to flash for 90 seconds and causes a difference in control settings.

    The difference in control is that heat goes to full only when set at 90 degrees.

    Getting to the small actuator is easier in some applications and hard in others. It requires some mechanical skill and agility.
  • bowfanbowfan Posts: 55
    My '98 acted the same way, and seemed to be worse on rainy or humid days. My mechanic recommended spraying silicone spray lubricant on the tracks that the glass slides in. I rolled the window down and sprayed the fuzzy window tracks at the front and back edges of the door. Raised and lowered the window a few times, and then resprayed again followed by more raising / lowering.

    It seems to be working well now. I've got 245k miles on mine so they've probably been up and down a few times and have some sort of buildup in the tracks that the glass slides in. The silicone spray seems to free it up, and doesn't seem to leave a greasy film on the window.
  • bob2bob2 Posts: 10
    Does anyone know how to remove the plastic that covers the speedometer cluster on a 97 Park Ave Ultra? Thanks for any help you can provide.
  • Hi, My brother has a 94 park avenue and its had this problem he will go to start the car and when he turns the key all the lights come on but nothing happens. It doesn't even try to start. Before they would pull the dash back and then try it and it would start Now it wont start at all. the lights come on but nothing. Anyone have any Ideas I would so appreciate it. thanks
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,528
    #1 is to see if it's the chip in the key not making contact with the wires in the lock cylinder that read the resistance or if the VATS system that does that is not working right.

    When you turn the key to ON the security light should come on as the key chip is read. Then the security light turns off after a few seconds because the right resistance was read.

    If the security light starts flashing the VATS system did not read the key correctly. Either the key contacts are dirty, the contacts in the lock cylinder that it rubs against to make contact are worn, or the wires in the steering column that carry the current/voltage are breaking from flexing the tilt steering wheel up and down hundreds of thousands of times OR the VATS Theft Deterrent box is not working right.

    Let me know which is happening?

    Other problems can be ignition switch at the bottom of the steering column that operates through a rod from th lock cylinder. They can turn everything on but not make contact with the contact for the starter. Try moving the key and cylinder around to see if they make contact.

    Also you could have a slipped switch that determines when the car is in P and N so the starter can turn. Try moving the gear selector as you hold the key to START.

    You also may have corrosion on the positive cables or on the negative cables. Espeically troublesome are the double layer positive cables at the battery. They can build up corrosion in between them. Take off the negative first. Turn off everything in the car including the AC unit first.

    Then take off the positive cables and check between. Also cut down along the plastic insulation to see that the copper core is not corroded away from battery acid leaking out of the battery at the posts.

    Last is your starter has died and doesn't make contact at the solenoid so it doesn't draw any current trying to turn which dims your lights; the lights just stay bright. If someone is knowledgeable about doing that correctly they know how to check at the starter, otherwise I don't recommend it yourself. There is danger of hurting yourself.
  • I am in Iowa and its gotten cold our driver side heated seat has stopped working and I dont have a clue as to what the problem may be. The car is a 2000 Park Ave and it has about 197000 miles still runs great! Just dont like the fact that in 5 and 10 degree weather we cant heat the driver side. HELP!
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,528
    If you get a light on the door that goes off a few seconds after pressing the button, then it probably is a broken wire in the three heaters wired in series in the seat.

    There are aftermarket suppliers of replacement heaters. HEaters are available from GM if I recall the info I've read.

    If you are handy, press the buttom and listen for a click. That indicates the relay unit is working (I believe it's under the seat). Some people have switched the seat units from left to right to check that it's not a defection switching control unit.

    One person has reported taking the seat out of the car, taking off the leather cover, and looking at the wiring for the heaters. They are in series so only one has failed most likely. In troubleshooting with his meter he found that the wiring connector at each heater is held in place with a hard glue, and that the wiring had broken where it flexed next to the hard glue. He repaired that connection and had his seat working again without a replacement.

    Good luck and welcome to Edmunds.
  • Thanks for the info. Our switch is on the dash and it does click when pressed I do believe. However taking the seat out and removing the cover sounds like a project of intensive proportion. Does the covering come off easily as the seats are powered and have switches and such that I dont want to damage, I also wonder how the covering will go back on? Just concerned about causing more damage by trying to to repair myself.
    Thanks for the info and the welcome
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,528
    What you're listening for is a relay sound under the seat where the power is switched off and on. The click of the switch's movement is different.

    I have not taken the seat off. You can look around the ends and around the controls on the seat to see how difficult. I can give you some links to places where people might tell how difficult. I believe removing the seat from the floor is 4 bolts. And I believe on one car in the past the seat material was zippered on. But I would have to check a service manual for a recent leather seat to see what to expect.

    A couple of people have reported connections pulled apart under the seat that caused the seat to quit. That's why I suggest listening for the relay and then inspecting. You have to stand on your head for some of these car repairs!
  • pau03pau03 Posts: 14
    Hi,
    I have a 2003 PA Ultra and I've had to deal with a seat that seemed to heat out of control. I have the service manual and I investigated digging down to the controller. It's a very large job requiring removal of most of the seat bottom components and the seat cushion. This won't be for the faint of heart. Fortunately I'm an electrical engineer and I was able to build my own controller and hot wire it in. Also, I looked at the schematic for a 2000 PA and it looks to be the same as my 2003. So, I'll assume the rest of the set-up is basically the same.

    I'm not sure if there is a relay in the controller that will go click. I know for a fact that power modulation is accomplished via a solid state switch that doesn't make any noise. I wouldn't think that a relay is needed, especially since they have reliability problems.

    Again, assuming that a 2000 is like a 2003, the seat is held in by 2 bolts in the back and two metal tabs that slide into grooves in the front. The seat is very heavy and it has to be lifted up in the back to release it from the tabs in front. I was able to do it by myself but it would be better to have two people work on it. A small person probably won't be strong enough to manuever it around.

    If you want some help with the electrical part let me know. If you know how to read schematics I could email one to you if you let me know what your email address is. I'm not sure if there is a way to post it in this thread.

    PAU03
  • Thanks for the info on the seat. At this time it would be great for me to get this seat fixed and I would love the schematics on the wiring, and any info on how to remove the seat and the cover.
    I have some experience with electronics and am pretty good with my hands also am a pretty good size fellow and consider myself strong so i think I can handle the lifting I am just concerned about having to do some type of major repair as I dont have the shop equipment. I would really appreciate it if you would contact me dtracy40@yahoo.com with the info.
    Thanks
    D
  • jam65jam65 Posts: 1
    Hi,

    I am so new to this but I hope someone can help me. I have a 93 Park Ave Ultra I noticed while driving that the rpm decelerates down and the car begins to sputter. I then take my foot off of the excelerator and place it back on there and that seems to correct it for a little while then it happens again. I can be going 70-80 on the freeway and suddenly it will start dropping. If I continue to give it gas it sputters until I release the pedal and then place my foot back on the pedal again. Any idea what this may be? and how can I get it fixed without being taken.

    Thanks :cry:
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,528
    Miles on the car?

    Maintenance?

    Has fuel filter been replaced? Fuel pump?
    Spark plugs been replaced in last 30-40K miles with exact AC plugs recommended by book at auto parts store?
    Plug wires if over 80K or 8 years on them need to be replaced with OEM quality wires, AC/Delco, NAPA Belden, etc.

    Since it sounds like it's happening at higher speed and when car is warm it could be a coil or electronic spark control module which I've read some having to replace. But my most likely would be the plugs or wires. I'd have to feel the push back.

    have you had the car scanneda at one of the auto parts stores to see what code you're getting?

    Does it do the same thing in 3rd at a proportionately lower speed--same speed on the tachometer?

    To fix remember you have to diagnose first. You can spend a lot of money throwing parts. Assume the easiest and most likely causes first.

    I had a problem with a 93 where under load, light such as slight uphill on interstate, I would feel a slight push back like a light misfire or EGR valve not working right. Plugs wires didn't fix. EGR seemed okay. Later GM had a PROM reprogram that adjusted the lockup speed for the TCC and I'm sure trimmed the fuel slightly and it was gone. The TCC didn't lockup at the low speed in 4th. I think it was about 5 mph higher before it locked up, like 52.

    Go see if there's a misfire code stored without setting the SES light on by having it checked. You can always run a bottle of Chevron Techron fuel system cleaner through also.

    Have you tried changing fuel? Changing to midgrade, i.e. or changing brands for a couple of tank fills.
  • Today someone backed into my 94 pa. the passenger side blinker cover is broken. (it's on the side of the car next to the headlight). I need to have it replaced and only the junkyard has it. He asked me if it was the one with one bulb or two...what does that mean? I'm really confused!
  • I have a 95 PA. I purchased it from an old lady about 3 months ago with 75,000 mi. on it. It had a small stutter while driving which she said was changing gears. It has gotten so bad it feels like you are driving a bucking bronco. It is impossible to drive very far, and at times is worse than other times, but still is unreliable to drive farther than 5 miles or so, and then it will still buck. I have had the fuel filter, plugs, wires,and crankshaft sensor replaced. The engine light comes on infrequently and goes off before you can get to auto Zone. No code shows up when they put their tester on it.Has anyone got any ideas? A garage I took it to said they couldn't figure it out. The dealer will rip me off I know,as they said they would need to keep it to go through it. I can't afford to pay what they charge per hour. Any ideas anyone?
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