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Buick Park Avenue Maintenance & Repair

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  • sr5967sr5967 Posts: 1
    does anyone have any ideas what would make the a/c not engage and both electric fans not to come on either. just came back from a weekend trip all worked fine car set for two days then noticed a/c and fans not working any ideas would be very helpfull.
  • tankbeanstankbeans Posts: 585
    Not knowing that much about cars, I would have to say that you may have a blown fuse or two. Unless you've tried that in which case I don't know.

    Good luck finding the problem though.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,374
    It could be low freon charge. The pressure has to be a minimum to turn on the switch telling the system that it can operate. If you can determine that switch location, usually on the low pressure line, you can jump it to see if the compressor will start running.

    It could be a blow fuse, as the previous post says. It could be stuck relay.

    My bet would be on the low freon.
  • dtracy66dtracy66 Posts: 6
    Hi guys,
    My 2000 Park Ave is sputtering and it looks like I need a tune up! The quotes I have received for the work are incredible so I'd like to do it myself. Does anyone have instructions on how to replace the coils, wires and plugs and any other useful info I can use when embarking on this project on my own!
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,374
    It would be better to diagnose what's causing the sputtering before hanging parts. Guessing can be expensive.

    Tell us about the car and when it does what!
  • dtracy66dtracy66 Posts: 6
    Well I had a co worker who is ASE certified look at it. No diagnostic but he suggested getting the coils replaced as two of them are definitely miss firing. We can see the blackening of the towers so we think that a replacement of the coils wires and plugs along with a new air filter would do the trick. I am no mechanic, however; I am pretty good with my hands and have a general knowledge of autos. I just wanted some feed back from the forum about the best way to go about it. Any info about how to go about it would be useful. We also can hear the coils arcing so we pretty much think that is the problem. I have just never changed the coils in this car or any car for that matter so I am not sure about the rings my co-worker told me about within the coils. I dont want to mess the car up it is a great car with a lot of miles on it, about 200k. Never had a problem out of it and dont want anything expensive to go wrong with it.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,374
    If you can hear a spark jumping gap inside the coils that's a good sign they need replacing. At 200K I'd do them all.

    IF your spark plugs and plug wires aren't less than 70K miles old, they need replacing with original equipment quality--for the plugs use the correct AC/Delco plugs recommended in the book. Weak wires and plugs can affect the coils and make them go out from the extra load of firing the plugs through the poor conductor in the wires. The iridium plugs that AC should have in there are meant for 100K and do that easily. You can judge when you take them out.

    If I recall the coils just unscrew with two screws. Be sure to clean the contact area on the plate under them and use dielectric grease there.

    You might check the coils with resistance meters. Your problem could be all in the wires if they've been on a long time. Depends on how much you want to spend. The crossfiring on them may be because of the wires not carrying the current they produce easily.

    Keep the oil changed regularly. Check the transmission fluid to keep it drained and a filter replaced IF it has been maintained all along. If it hasn't let it go. Do not allow anyone to sell you a transmission flush.

    Let us know how it works out for you.
  • I have a 2000 Park with 95000 miles. It has been an excellent car with few maintenance problems. Lately, while driving the engine will die for no apparent reason. I just shift to neutral and then it starts up again. This has happened about 4 or 5 times now in the last 1500 miles. Any clues. Thanks.
  • bowfanbowfan Posts: 55
    I'd say the odds are about 100 to 1 that the crankshaft position sensor is going out on you. It is sometimes abbreviated as a CKP sensor. This happened to my father's 2001 and another symptom it would show was the tachometer would drop to zero. I drove his 2001 for a while as I tried a couple things to diagnose it. Typically, if I was driving over 50mph when it happened, it would just kill the tach but the engine might keep going, and the performance would decline - engine would ping and "service engine soon" light might indicate a problem code. If I was driving under 50mph, it would sometimes just kill the tach, but would also frequently kill the engine. :mad:

    Someone in New Jersey tabulated the failure of the CKPs and if I remember correctly, there was a batch of them manufactured during a portion of 2000 that were 4 times more likely to fail than other dates.

    My father followed up on a lot of advice, replaced numerous sensors that were supposed to be grounding the computer, or indicating a high temp to the computer. But when he finally broke down and replaced the CKP, the problem went away. The part costs about $25-30 at Advance and he had a small front yard mechanic install his for about $50. Most won't install it that cheap, it is about an hour to hour and a half job to replace it.

    He's happy with it now, and feels comfortable driving it on 2,000 mile trips again. He just got back from one.

    You can search the net and find some people have sites that have pics from when they changed their's out. Very common engine. The service manual says you need to have the computer 'relearn' something when you replace the CKP, but I'm pretty sure this guy never did that. When I've replace the CKP on other model cars, there was never a 'relearning'. Just install and go.

    If you have your CKP replaced and that fixes it, please write back for future readers. :)
  • The dash warning lights for the ABS system and Tractkion Controll Off lights come on and remain on when the vehicle ist started. If I turn the engine off they go out about half the time. Any suggestions at to what the problem may be
  • Thanks for the info. It was a great starting point. We did check the crankshaft sensor and found it to be OK. I was also told sometimes the waterpump can leak and short this sensor out, but we found no leaks.
    However, something I didn't think about was checking the fuses. I had a bad key chip and thought the problem might be in the ingnition switch even after buying new keys. What I found was that over time the fuses had vibrated part way out with the ingnition fuse the furthest out. These were tightened and so far I have had no further problems. Thanks again.
  • fohlenfohlen Posts: 4
    the 95 buick was missing so took it to repair place and they replaced plugs wires fuel filter and flushed trany fluid and cleaned the fuel injectors. it has 57,000 original miles on it and it was getting 20miles to gallon after tuneup it now get 15.79 per gallon or 16 miles only what could be wrong? Thanks shirley
  • fohlenfohlen Posts: 4
    Took the buick back to auto repair and they checked it out because it was losing 4 mile per gallon after tuneup and they said they didnot look at the update bulletin, so this time they did look and say they think they found the problem after the tuneup and fixed the problem. Too soon to tell.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,374
    Did they say what had been done wrong or what was missed that would cause a drop in mileage? I am finding that hard to believe that there was something in a bulletin...
  • how do you get to the fuel pump is there an easy to take the tank out?

    tks
    tom
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,374
    There's an access cover in the trunk under the mats.
  • I have a 00 park ave with 110,000 miles. it drove fine untill last night the thing just started sputtering and then died out. It still starts up but does the same thing unless the rpm's are up high. the wierdest part about it is that the check engine light didn't come on. I tried to diagnose it anyways but it came up with no codes. I have replaced the spark plugs and wires, the coils looked fine,checked the pcv valve and that also looked fine. checked every vacuum hose that I could find and cleaned most of the sensors. I have also replaced the fuel filter and put in some fuel injector cleaner but it is still doing the same thing
    any help would be greatly appreciated!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,374
    The only thing to try that you are able to do yourself without a fuel pressure gauge is to remove the wires from the MAF sensor on the throttle body. Disconnect that leads. And start the motor. See if it will run without it connected.

    My other thought would be fuel pressure. It's a little young in miles and years for the crankshaft position sensor or camshaft sensor to be bad.

    Note that pulling the wires for the MAF sensor will turn on the Check Engine light.

    Another thing might be to remove the IAC, idle air control, also on the throttle body. See if it's stopped up with black, wet soot.
  • Well, all things considered it did work for awhile since my last post. Now my 2000 park avenue is dying again while driving. Sometimes in cruise - sometimes not -sometimes only once in 300 miles - sometimes 3 or 4 times in 50 miles. I had the fuel pressure checked. It is steady at idle and running down the highway. I also had the computer hooked up and no codes showed bad. The crankshaft sensor showed good. I have tried 3 different keys and the same happens. This happens with a full tank of gas or not. The car justs dies like the key would shut it off. I have to stop, put it in park, shut off the key, and then it will start right up again. Again I would appreciate any ideas. Thanks much. Jake
  • Hello Jake,

    Sorry to hear it is still giving you problems. If you google a bit, you'll find many mechanics get a lot of mileage out of this problem until the crank position sensor is finally replaced. I'm not sure how the mechanic was able to test a part that is only intermittantly failing but was hesitant to tell you that for fear of sounding too negative and bursting your bubble.

    I have the factory service manual and I can't find a section in it that tells how to test it. It does list a group of components to test: wiring harness, plug wires, misrouted wires, poor connection, ign coil. There is a replacement section tho.

    Before you spend too much on other parts, or trips to the mechanic, I still recommend having the CKP replaced. It really is a very common failure, and fairly inexpensive to fix.

    This engine is shared with many GM cars and the problem is not unique to BPAs. Look at the top solution to this problem in the Chevy Impala:

    http://www.carcomplaints.com/Chevrolet/Impala/2000/engine/stalls_while_driving.s- html

    Thanks for updating, hope you get it fixed soon! :)

    Brgds,
    Brad
  • Hey imidazol97,
    Thanks a million, it ended up being the MAF sensor. After unpluging it the car ran beautifully and I was able to drive it home. I was going to take it out and clean it to see if it would start working properly again before dishing out the 150 bucks for a new one. kinda wierd though, even with the sensor unpluged the check engine light still didn't go on. Anyways thanks again for the help!!!! :shades:
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,374
    You might check the connections to the ISC which is the unit under the three coils. The contacts occasionally don't (CONTACT) and then restart.

    I just read another problem car with some miles that would die after running for a while because the fuel pump was heating up and not working right. The description was that it would start right back up. I assume that's because it cools quickly when it's not running. My suspiction was that it was a contact problem but either way the fuel pump fixed it. The only added part was that it sometimes would act like you were trying to give too much fuel. That was due to reduced pressure affecting the spray pattern of the injectors when the throttle body was opened up.
    The one thing missing is yours seems to quit right now. No sputter. No poor running. Just quits.

    A CPS, crankshaft position sensor, often gives trouble restarting. Cooling them with a splash of water onto the sensor at the edge of the crankshaft balancer will sometimes speed up the restart. But others have had problems and the car restarts right away.

    Myself I would look carefully at the contacts on the Ignition spark control. The ground wire is black if I recall the post.
  • The drivers door on my "91" Park Ave will not lock from the inside or outside.
    Anybody have/had this problem?
  • Re post 183.
    The coil pack on mine was the problem. Runs great now.
  • How can I reset the anti theft device in my 1992 Buick Park Avenue?
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,374
    can they be reset? Maybe by disconnecting the battery for a good while to completely clear the computer of current memory. Be sure to turn off the HVAC before you disconnect it.

    What is the symptom?
  • Hello I am in a world of hurt. Recently I was rear ended and my bumper assembly collapsed because the energy bars and upper and lower impact bars were rusted. Fortunately all the damage to my vehicle was confined to the bumper area and did not damage the quarter panels or frame. The problem is when I took my car to the repair shop they say they cannot find any replacement parts for the car. GM has stopped making the rear bumper cover (the plastic wrap around assembly). I believe the repair shop because I did a search myself and came up empty also. Does anyone know of any place where I may find what I am looking for.
    rear bumper
    bumper cover
    upper and lower impact bars
    right and left energy absorbers
    upper molding
    lower bumper cover support

    This car is in great shape both mechanically as well as inside and out to be just written off as a loss The engine and transmission are in great running condition.
    thank-you for any info you may have vanman391
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,374
    gmpartsdirect.com

    rockauto.com

    car-parts.com (recycling yards) a very interesting way to search for things.
  • Thank you for the great info on finding parts for my "Ultra" however I believe I have found what I need from a local salvage yard. I will know in a couple of days when the parts arrive. Now I need to have them installed.

    icemanstone
  • help me please! the fan will run for the air conditioner, but the other 2 fans will not run that keeps the motor cool! can any-one tell me what this might be? i hit the fuse cover a couple times and it clicked right on, tried it again today it didn't work. i feel there is a short somewhere. think maybe it might be a relay switch? what else can i try? help me please!<img src="
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