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Buick Park Avenue Maintenance & Repair

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Comments

  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,184
    I'm not clear about what you're saying.

    You are saying your fan for the heater inside and AC air is blowing just fine.

    You are saying that the fans behind the radiator do NOT come on when the AC is turned on.

    Am I right?

    If so I believe there are two relays in the Relay Center that handle this. Give me some time. I have a 93 LeSabre/Park Avenue factory service manual.

    If I'm not understanding, try explaining to me again.
  • I would like to thank everyone for their advice on my Park Avenue. I had the crank sensor changed and have gone 3 weeks and 1500 miles without of hitch.
    I purchased the sensor off Ebay for 1/4 the cost of a new one from a seller who purchases overstock parts.
    Once again --- Thanks.

    Jake :)
  • Hi Folks,

    My 1st post to Edmunds so please excuse me if I've ended up in the wrong forum!

    anyway, I have a 1992 Park ave. Ultra and I've tried every thing between a new battery and starter (relays, etc...all the bells and whistles work but starter make's absolutly no noise) so I've bought a starter and it looks to me as if one of the bolts is under the front frame bar(? terminology) and I just can't get to it or I'm missing something about it. I mean there's only 2 bolts!

    Anyone out there that has done this before? Especially in your on driveway? I would love any help that can be put forth. Even though it is the one with the supercharger, I would think the starter would be in the same pos. as other Park Aves. placement on the trans.

    Or, if someone has a maintenance manual for a 92 P.A. Ultra I'd love to get my hands on one. As all of the car shops can get manuals for the 92PA, but they come back with, "except for the Ultra model".

    And I love this car!

    Thanks for any help you folks could generously give me............

    Skydiver4
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,854
    When removing starter, note if any shims are used between the starter and mounting surface. If shims are found, reinstall in original locations.If starter is noisy during cranking, remove one .015 inch double shim or add one .015 inch single shim to the outer bolt. If starter makes a high pitched whine after engine start, add .015 inch double shims until noise ceases.

    1. Disable airbag system as described under MAINTENANCE PROCEDURES/AIRBAG SYSTEM DISARMING.
    2. Disconnect battery ground cable and raise and support vehicle.
    3. Remove starter braces, shields or other components that may hinder starter removal.

    DISARMING

    The diagnostic energy reserve module (DERM) can maintain voltage to cause a system deployment for up to ten minutes after the ignition switch is turned off and the battery is disconnected. Servicing the SIR system during this period may result in accidental deployment and personal injury.

    1. Ensure front wheels are pointed straight ahead.
    2. Turn ignition switch to Lock position and remove SIR or AIRBAG fuse.
    3. Remove lower left sound insulator.
    4. Remove connector position assurance (CPA) lock and disconnect yellow two-way SIR harness connector at base of steering column
    4. Support starter and remove mounting bolts.
    5. Lower starter and disconnect solenoid wires and battery cable.
    6. Remove starter from vehicle.
    7. Reverse procedure to install.
    8. Rearm airbag system as described under MAINTENANCE PROCEDURES/AIRBAG SYSTEM DISARMING.

    ARMING:

    1. Connect yellow two-way SIR harness connector and install CPA lock.
    2. Install left sound insulator.
    3. Install SIR fuse.
    4. Turn ignition switch to Run position and ensure ``Inflatable Restraint'' lamp flashes 7-9 times and then remains off.

    MODERATOR

  • tankbeanstankbeans Posts: 585
    Hello all-

    It's been about 6 months since I posted about this problem. My mom and I finally got around to bringing this vehicle in to get looked at. After much trial and error those who were checking it said that it was the "crankshaft position sensor."

    How much should it run to have this fixed? Just curious. They said that after an $85 diagnostic fee and some money spent on gas the whole bill would come to $350. Does this sound reasonable?

    We haven't authorized the repair yet, so we're just waiting.

    Thanks for your patience and assistance.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,854
    it's $65 for the part and 1.1 hours labor.

    So $85 diagnostic + $70 (with tax) for part + 1.1 hour labor at $100 an hour = $265.

    If you are in places like California or NYC, labor rate may be higher.

    MODERATOR

  • tankbeanstankbeans Posts: 585
    Thank you for your reply. I would guess that I'll have to just bite the bullet since this is something that I can't do. I guess my mom said they had given her a big list of codes that the car threw. I'll post those to see if there is anything else that I need to get taken care of soon.

    Once again thank you everyone for your help. I know that I don't have a Buick, but I know that most GM cars are the same across the bored with cosmetic differences.
  • tankbeanstankbeans Posts: 585
    As promised here are some codes. If it is possible I want to know which ones are most important and which ones can be skipped. Thank you in advance for your help. Also, how much it might cost to get the big ones taken care of.

    P0706 Trans range sensor circuit--out of range
    P0705 Trans range sensor circuit--(PRNDL input)
    P0332 Knock sensor 2 signal short/low
    P0327 Knock sensor 1 signal short/low
    P0135 02 Heater circuit B1 S1
    P0133 02 Heater signal slow B1 S1
    P0102 Mass air flow circuit signal low

    This is exactly what was written down. I omitted the code about the crankshaft sensor since that was replaced. Thanks again for helping out. I know with older cars certain things aren't worth fixing.

    Also, how difficult is it to change brakes on this car? They said that the car pulses when braking. I've never done it.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,854
    Well I guess the question is---is the engine light on? AND....how does the car run? Were these codes cleared? Did the light come back on?

    The brakes shouldn't be too hard. You need new brake rotors, sounds like they are warped.

    MODERATOR

  • tankbeanstankbeans Posts: 585
    So far, and I've not driven it since the fix, my mom says that it's fine. I know that before the fix it was running okay when it ran. I have noticed that the shifting from park to drive has always been a bit rough, especially when on a slight incline, nose pointed up. I don't know if the lights have come back on, they were cleared though.

    Are these the type of rotors that you need a machine to remove, like the front rotors on a 95 Accord EX (pressed on I think is what they referred to those as.), or are they the ones that slide off after you remove the pads. I think I'm getting to the point where I can do that. Would having bad brakes cause the car to pull to the right if you don't have you hand on the wheel? I ask because we once had a van with a rotor that was completely rusted through, nothing was grabbing anything, and the steering would always pull severely to the left, the side with the good rotor, when the hand was off the wheel.

    Sorry to pick your brains, but I have little money to play with and my mom has less. We just need to keep it running.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,854
    Let's deal with this in our Answers Department. Be sure to post the year, make and model and specify you want instructions on replacing pads and rotors:

    ANSWERS DEPARTMENT

    MODERATOR

  • tankbeanstankbeans Posts: 585
    Will do. Thanks.
  • Does anyone know the procedure for replacing the belt on a 1996 park avenue?
  • I HAVE A 1998 BUICK PARK AVE AND MY REAR WINDOW TAKES A LONG TIME TO DEFROST WHAT COULD BE THE PROBLEM
  • Does anyone know about the steering sensor on a 03 buick park ave ultra?
  • ...that the check engine light hasn't come on once since I had the crankshaft position sensor replaced on the 98 Regency. Hoping I didn't just jinx it, but it seems to be running fine. Now I just have to gather up the money to put some brakes on it. They're squealing something fierce.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,184
    I saw your post and have been looking for a writeup on how to do it. I found it here at this location link titletarget="_blank">http://www.pontiacbonnevilleclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=53&t=2652

    I suggest trying the locknut on the stud to see if it turns the stud out or it you'll need a torx or the socket size that will jam onto it they mention in the writeup.

    Another thing missing in the article is a supporting the motor slightly. Find a spot to lift with a small jack--some mechanics would tell you to put a block of wood under the oil pan give a small upward lift there but the factory service manual recommends not because it's easy to dent in the oil pan. The little lift is needed to help slide in the space at the end. They end up buffing the ends to make it fit. I have a hint because I watched my dealer change it at 60K on my 1998 leSabre. They lifted the left side of the car with a jack under the door where you would jack to change a tire onthe left side. That lifts the left side and takes the motor up with it giving support to the motor and tending to pull the lower part of the mount where the spacer sleeve is apart--giving more room for the spacer. They did not use a jack under the right wheel and just turned the front wheel all the way to the right to allow the mechanic to work. Good luck.
  • I bought a 94 PA in May 2008, with 54,000 miles on it. The lady who owned it died, but she had maintained it fairly well. The main computer had been replaced in 2007. After i bought it, we replaced all hoses (originals), the water pump, and the battery. A few weeks ago, the alternator gage starting wavering wildly with the light sometimes going on and the battery kicking in. when I would arrange to take it to the mechanic, it ran normally. The mechanic tested the charging system and battery and it all was good. When the problem came back, I had the alternator, battery and ignition tested again by AutoZone - all tested good but the guy said the diode in the alternator could be going out. The car continued to have spells of the alternator gage coming on and the lights dimming. Had more than 2 weeks of normal operation - one bad day - then last night the gage went to the 8, the light came on, my headlamps dimmed and it finally stopped running. My husband came and jumped it and took it to the Good year garage across from where it died, they tested the alternator, said it was gone and replaced it for 2.5 times the price of buying one at Autozone. When I picked the car up, it seemed fine until I'd driven 40 of the 50 miles back to my home. Then it all started up again. I'm beginning to think I should try to sell it rather than put more money into it. (The mechanic I mentioned earlier also told me it needed new struts front and back and new shocks - but said I could put those off since they'd cost around $1,500).
  • Please help. I just completed replacing the water pump, LIM gaskets and UIM on my 1995 Park Avenue. The job went great, runs beautiful, no leaks anywhere. I put the alternator power lug on in a slightly wrong orientation so the engine cover would not go on due to interference. So like an idiot without disconnecting the battery, I started to loosen up the alternator nut and accidentally touched the wrench to the fuel rail where it goes over the UIM. There was a little spark between the wrench and the fuel rail and I knew I screwed-up. Car would not start. The starter solenoid clicks, but the starter won't turn. Every other power user in the car seems to be working fine. I checked every clear (colored) fuse in both fuse blocks, they are all good. My guess is that I either cooked a relay or a fusable link. The car has 88K miles. Any ideas? Thanks in advance for your help.
    Thanks and regards, Joe
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,184
    I'm not familiar with the differences of which year the Park Avenue became more different from LeSabre. I think this is one that's like the leSabre.

    Is the click when you turn the key a light snap or is it a heavy click like the starter engaging but not turning?

    My guess would be you might have burned something out in the alternator. But I think that shouldn't affect the starting, just the charging.

    See if the click you're hearing is actually the starter. I might be another relay.

    You sound proficient at working around the car. I'd try on my own car a direct connection to the starter terminal on the starter. I don't recommend that for others because you can contact the wrong thing--as you found out.

    I'd do it with someone else touching the battery at the top so that the other end of my jumper at the starter wasn't hot until I was ready. I can't really tell what fusable link might have burned up or whatever in the alternator. If you set up your carspace email on your automatic carspace account (it's linked in the green bar at the top of page, right under the word home) send an email to my username with the at sign and carspace.com from your carspace account. I can suggest a couple of places to look for help.
  • corvettecorvette United StatesPosts: 4,115
    I am getting a 1998 Park Avenue Ultra ready to sell, and as I was leaving Autozone after purchasing some touch-up paint, the CEL came on. I returned to Autozone and had the codes read. There were two instances of a P0102 code, which indicates that the mass air flow input is lower than expected. Is this a common problem on these cars? I will check the vacuum hoses, but I'm guessing the car needs a new MAF. It has 74,000 miles.

    I haven't noticed any drivability problems with the car, but it isn't my daily driver.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,854
    Well vacuum leaks at the intake manifold or EGR valve will throw this code.

    Also a bad connection at the MAF (wiring or connector) will throw the code

    A bad MAF will also cause this as well as a bad PCM module.

    The only way to know for sure is with a scan tool, a volt/ohm meter and use of a diagnostic tree of step by step measurements.

    MODERATOR

  • ggeeooggeeoo Posts: 94
    A. As for removing the door panel, they hide those screws very nicely don't they? There have been some problems with the lock actuators. They have these little rubber things that act as a connection between the actuator motor and the door latch. They tend to split and keep it from opening the lock.

    If you can hear the actuator in that door working and not opening the lock, this is the problem. GM sells these little things in sets of two. As for the door panel, take it to a dealer and have it done, you'll not like taking out the actuator either. The door latch and door lock actuator need to be replaced as an assembly.
    Buick Park Avenue Door Lock Actuators

    1. Remove the door handle trim plate (6).
    2. Carefully remove the armrest cover plate (2) by prying upward from the access hole using a thin-bladed tool.
    3. Remove the 2 fasteners (3) from the armrest.
    4. Remove the courtesy lamp assembly (5).
    5. Remove the fastener from behind the lamp assembly (4).
    6. Remove the push in retainer from the defroster duct.
    7. Lift straight up on the trim panel in order to disengage the hooks on the backside of the panel (4).

    Buick Park Avenue Door Lock Actuators

    8. Disconnect the electrical connectors.
    9. Remove the door trim panel.

    I found this out the hard way ,this was such a good explanation I wanted to share
    it if you search images on google you sometimes get lucky.
  • corvettecorvette United StatesPosts: 4,115
    Thanks. I checked all the relevant fuses, and they appeared to be good. Doing this apparently reset the PCM, and the light no longer comes on. I drove the car through an OBD "drive cycle" and the light didn't come back on. The MAF sensor itself is not an OEM part, so I'm guessing it's been replaced at least once.
  • ggeeooggeeoo Posts: 94
    This is not the professional way but....My gas gauge needle got stuck under the post
    when I removed the bat cable recently. I simply drilled a tiny hole in that plastic and
    used a paperclip wire to grab and pull it gently it works fine now.
  • ggeeooggeeoo Posts: 94
    My drivers side front door handle (pot metal} recently snapped the finger off the back
    of it that controls the brass lever that pushes the rod that allows the latch to disingage
    so that front door can be opened from outside the car. This is a Diamond White color
    car ,hard to find a replacement in junk yard. I simplly drilled a small hole in the face
    of the broken finger lever and screwed a brass screw i had in my junk can,wrapped
    elec tape around until the with of the finger was the same as the manufactures' was.
    The Actuator is more complicated Autozone 75617 Door Lock Actuator is only 1/2
    the fix ,their is another part that this attaches to that is a dealer item that 245.00
    that is necessary to fix it completely. I understand that you can re attach the 75617
    by drilling the rivets and the re riviting it back before install has anyone tried this?
  • ggeeooggeeoo Posts: 94
    The coolant also cools the transmission, you have air in the line that is why the
    funky trans on start up there is a inline pump that could be sticky as well.
  • ggeeooggeeoo Posts: 94
    Sometimes the Windows in the 99 PA would move slowly in the track. The problem
    is not the motor. The problem is the track. The rubber weather strip gets old and brittle
    and the window binds. The fix get a new one $110.00 replace it very easy took me
    2 hours per window. Tools a credit card to help it into the plastic edge.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,184
    The vertical guides for the windows get gunked up with dirt accumulation. Try cleaning that with normal paint thinner by wiping the felt surface to clean it. Or you could try rinsing it with a strong Dawn solution which also removes oily materials. Dry it. See if the window works more easily.
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