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Acura MDX Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • stinger3stinger3 Posts: 16
    I'd love an Audi but went with the MDX for reliability ratings. And we need the space that the MDX provides (two kids and lots of road trips). I have had such atrocious luck with two Volvos that I can not go back. But thanks for thinking of it. The MDX is great and the booming comes and goes. I will see how long my patience lasts.

    Best of luck in your Audi.
  • JBaumgartJBaumgart Posts: 890
    I wonder if it could have been bird crap that sat on it too long? Very acidic and corrosive if you don't clean it off right away...otherwise, I wonder if it didn't incur damage at the original selling dealer and they did a poor job of repairing it? Would be impossible to prove if that's the case...
  • I realize that your posting is close to 5 years old but am nonetheless curious what you did to fix the sporadic A/C. Our MDX loses its A/C on really hot days. I suspect that it freezes and becomes dysfunctional. Any advice as to the fix is appreciated. Thanks!
  • steverstever Ex Yooper, en route to New MexicoPosts: 40,499
    edited July 2010
    Your symptoms sound a bit like this Civic problem someone posted in Answers yesterday. Moisture in the system can freeze and plug it up.

    Climate Control Problems (Air Conditioning, Heat) - All Cars may help too.

    Moderator
    Need help navigating? stever@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.

  • x5killerx5killer Posts: 368
    my rear gray bumper was already a little scratched up but recently got hit in a parking lot so I need to replace it. my body shop can get it i'm sure as they got my wife a new bumper on her acura when her parked car was hit in a parking lot by a commercial truck who paid for the new bumper.

    But I wonder if the body shop gets the bumper for one price and then charges the customer a little more i'm sure even for this seemingly mostly honest shop. Unless they have some in to cheap parts and actually pass that along to the customer I'm sure I could get it cheaper myself.

    acurapartswarehouse.com seems to be cheaper then bernardi.acuraparts or curry.acuraparts

    anyone know of or order replacement parts (and/or accessories but actual parts are harder to find as many sites shops have the acccessories) from other shops/sites?

    for rear bumper there seems to be a bunch of different parts but you can get the main whole bumper which I'm assuming I need but hope I dont order more then I actually need. Here is a list of all the bumper parts front and back

    http://www.acurapartswarehouse.com/online/Page_Product/PartDetail.aspx?catalogID- =26&productID=8&yearID=24&doorID=4&gradeID=120&areaID=1&transmissionID=2&originI- D=-1&colorLabelIDs=-1&colorLabelID=-1&sectionID=7&idAndImageID=4929%20227488&isB- igPicture=False

    so I'm guessing I need #2 on the list
    04715-STX-A91ZZ FACE, RR. BUMPER (DOT) CAN 1 $431.82 $318.68

    which is the whole rear bumper. I just hope that isn't more then I need. I guess I should wait and see what the body shop says and exactly what part I need which they be reluctant to tell me if they make part of their money on the part which be kind of dishonest though.

    hopefully they can tell me exactly what I need and exactly what they would charge me for the bumper part before labor so I can compare to what I can get the part for myself.
  • un_sidiqun_sidiq Posts: 31
    Got a quote of $188 for B13 service; (dealership)
    1- Oil Change and tire rotation ($34.95 + $28)
    2- Transmission and rear differential flush and fill. ($115)

    I am skipping the inspection part as i can do it on my own, and also holding off on break fluid flush and fill for a couple of months (Almost 3 years old).
    Called up Honda dealer ship and the price is almost the same.

    Is that around what other folks are paying, should i try to go to some other generic shop ?
    Thanks
  • un_sidiqun_sidiq Posts: 31
    For 05 you will need to open some screws, i have on 08 and the glove box just drops down, you pull out the filter and put the new one, no need to go to the dealer for this. The only thing to watch out for is when you drop the glove box make sure you dont let it drop all the way and give some support with your hand as there is a vacum rod in the back that can come of (it can be put back in just takes a few minutes extra).
  • amdx09amdx09 Posts: 2
    Can you tell me what area you are in? I'm looking for similar service, I need B16. I haven't shop around yet.
  • un_sidiqun_sidiq Posts: 31
    I am in Dallas, going to the dealer in Plano, i was also able to use a 15% off coupon that i found at another dealer's site, so the total would be a little less.
    Seems like Acura dealers will accept coupon as long as it is from another Acura dealer.
  • un_sidiqun_sidiq Posts: 31
    Small correction, it's not rear differential fluid, it's transmission and transfer fluid that is $114.95 (service item # 3)
  • amdx09amdx09 Posts: 2
    Thanks, I guess I'll call around and see if the deal will match the lower ones. I saw your old post for B16, so I have some idea for the price range now.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,829
    that looks like the part but when you bring that to a body shop don't be surprised if they will paint it and install it but might refuse to warranty their work. They might not object, but they might. Given that it is a genuine factory part, you're probably okay, but if there's something missing, or the wrong fit, wrong part, damaged in shipping, etc., this is going to be your problem, since you ordered it.

    Personally, I don't see this as worth the trouble. If the body shop marks up the part 10%, that's maybe $40 bucks.

    MODERATOR

  • So here is an update, i also noticed excessive hood movement when on the highway and also notified the dealer ship about that.
    Just got a call from the dealership, the MDX only has around 38k miles.
    1- The hood needs repair as i was not imagining and there is excessive ply.
    2- One of the axle is leaking and needs replacement (still under warranty)
    3- Whistling sound from the window at highway speed (i complained about it and it's getting fixed under warranty)
    4- Dealer said that the tires that the vehicle comes with (Michelin) are not the best, as i had noticed steering vibration that felt like balancing issue. Looks like will need new tires soon as tread has already worn out.

    Any suggestions on what tires to get ?
    I had bought extended warranty though dont' this stuff like axle will be covered.

    Over all not very pleased with the MDX.
  • 2007 MDX starts vibrating at 65 mph, new set of tires didn't help. Definitely coming from the front, I assume it's the suspension and not the wheels. Acura service rep dismissed the problem by stating - Oh, we can't recreate the problem because we can't drive at that speed for fear of getting a ticket! And that's after dropping 1K for a new set of tires, at $45k a pop I'd expect a near damn perfection. Can't imagine a BMW dealer insulting his customer like this... Is this a safety issue? I understand most drivers of this car are soccer moms who only drive at that speed in the Nordstrom's parking lot, so they don't complain about this issue.
  • I had the same problem. After 3 dealerships and the run around, it turned out to be bad rotors. I ended up having to get corporate involved as none of the dealerships could find the problem and kept blowing me off.

    The rotors they used on the 2007 are no longer being installed.
  • 10sfan10sfan Posts: 136
    At what mileage did you have to replace the rotors and brakes? I have 45,000 of mostly highway miles now and was advised to consider replacing brakes and rotors.
  • I replaced mine at 50k but only to seriously upgrade system, not for regular maintenance. Used Hawk HPS pads and upgraded rotors. Night and day difference. Also replaced tires with Grand Touring M+S - dropping the truck tires that came on the MDX. Much better cornering and braking, especially in the wet. Works just fine in Snow, also.
  • "I have 45,000 of mostly highway miles now and was advised to consider replacing brakes and rotors. "

    Brakes and rotors that were an inadequate design for this vehicle unfortunately. I replaced allthe way around between 40-50k miles at a cost of $1000.

    BTW, the brakes on our '07 are light years ahead of the '04's
  • tunlotunlo Posts: 7
    Battery problem?.... suggest anyone using a factory battery replace with a gel battery. Battery came with with MDX is a joke. I purchased a 07 MDX back in 06(November) and decided to take a long road trip(winter) from new york to Canada. having driven half way there i stopped on a rest stop to get some snooooze; engine turned off but left the radio on for like a hour or so. woke up and found the darn MDX couldn't start and realized the battery have just gone KAPUT. finally i was rescued by a good samaritan driving a MB AMG. i was like why you want to trade my car for your car? Enuf BS... after driving back to NY the battery would die everytime if i turned off the engine for 10 minutes or so with light or radio on. I had to flag other cars for jump start couple of times. after 5th or 6th times i decided to crash myself into auto parts store and get myself a gel battery. Ever since the is replaced, I have not have any problem with battery dying every so often even if i have the card turned off and/or lights on.

    Clicking sound when steering either direction.... OH BOY I'm having this problem and is becoming ANNOYing! I've been to the service center complaining bout' the noise for at least 10 times. They have changed front CV joints and even replaced both rear structs(which I'm glad they did cuz if they don't they cost at least $1500 for one) and still the clicking noise is there. It is most noticeable on a stop and make turn gradually to either direction. Noise can be most noticeable during parking reversing into a spot. I just took my car back to the dealer and now they claim noise is coming from the front left struct. They are in progress ordering the part and should be in sometime this week. I'll let you all know if that kills the clicking sound.

    P.S.: Sometimes I wonder if I should have just trade the car to a German Dealer and get myself a X6.
  • tunlotunlo Posts: 7
    Did your dealer replace you a set of tires free of charge? I know one of my rim is slightly bent but i hessitate to shell out near $500 for a brand new one. Anyone in this forum awared if dealer will replace your rim(s) if still under warranty? Wheel vibrate at high speed on the highway.... aside from changing your tires.. you might want them to check your RIMs. One or more rim(s) bent might give you vibrating... not just wheels not being balanced.
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    "..clicking sound when turning either direction..."

    What you seem to be describing is common to a 4WD system that uses a locked center differential which is inadvertently left engaged on a tractive surface. So that clicking sound CAN be the result of the SH-AWD system keeping the rear drive too tightly engaged during tight and/or low speed turns.

    A R/awd system, base REAR drive vehicle, would NEVER have the front drive engaged while turning turning tightly, high lateral loads on the front wheels, But a F/awd system such as the SH-AWD system absolutely MUST keep the rear drive engaged while turning. Otherwise the combined stress on the front wheels' traction coefficient due to having to support drive torque, FULL drive torque, along with HIGH lateral forces might very well result in loss of traction altogether.

    Pull the fuse(s) for the SH-AWD system while the ignition is off and see if the clicking sound remains.

    The early MDX's with the VTM-4 F/awd system had premature transaxle failures for this very reason, both front and rear drive torque applied simultaneously simply resulted in to much stress, driveline windup and/or tire scrubbing, and that resulted in failure of the weakest link, the transaxles.
  • QUICK - have your torque converter checked before your warranty is up. I had exact problems, they told me to replace the original tires, new balance, new alignment ($2000). Fast forward 2 weeks - I drove a stick shift for many years & could feel the "tug & shake" of improper shifting ... had the technician go for a 40min drive with me ON HIGHWAY where the car could heat up & really experience its issues. The converter is being replaced & they told me that I'd have to replace 2 front brake routers on my own ... going to ask corporate to pay for that too ... after reading this blog.
  • Same! grinding right after speed bump... tried with brake, tried w/ gas, tried neutral - all the same. Have had my 07 T&E 48k into the shop more times than I'd like since Nov06 purchase. Had technician drive it over bumps, but he couldn't recreate. Put 4 new tires on balance, alignment ... one month later shuddering, gears seem off, smells funny ... they are replacing my torque converter and hopefully, full transmission. I've also had trouble with one of the doors unlocking, the battery dying very quickly when engine is off / radio on, and the back seat getting "stuck" in the down position. Bought Acura for its reliability, but definitely questioning my purchase.
  • tunlotunlo Posts: 7
    ok... just got my car back 2 days ago after dealer replaced front left struct with them indicating internal struct damage. Took the car for a drive and indeed drives like new with new struct over bumps. But sadly the darn clicking sound still lurks when turning But not as loud as before. Will need to put the car back to the dealer for Another Check. my 07 have 37K+ on it.... warranty almost run out.

    What would pulling fuse(s) off for SH-AWD do?

    I'm like thinking could there be something lose around the axles when turning something is in the way or rubbing against it causing the stupid clicking sound?
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    edited October 2010
    What would pulling the SH-AWD system fuse do..??

    Lower the stress on the drive train, the ENTIRE drive train. When your SH-AWD system pre-emptively engages the rear drive on a tractive surface that often results in a rather serious level of driveline windup and/or tire scrubbing, most especailly so in a low speed turn, tight turn or accelerating turn even moreso.

    IMMHO what is most needed for the SH-AWD system, or ANY pre-emptive F/awd system, is the ability of the driver to enable (not "engage") it ONLY in known or suspected low traction conditions. It could also be made reactive, activating ONLY with actual wheelspin/slip and the following 2-3 minutes, in order to cover instances of which the driver might not be aware in advance.
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    "..darn clicking sound.."

    We're not, I hope, talking about the clicking sound at/within the stearing wheel resulting from the turn signal cancel mechanism.?

    "Replaced the left front strut.."
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    "..it is most noticeable on a stop and make turn gradually..."

    Low speed acceleration, and/or acceleration into a turn, will ALWAYS result in the SH-AWD system engaging, PRE-EMPTIVELY engaging, the rear drive. That, in turn, should the tire contact surface be reasonably tractive, will end up putting a LOT of undue stress on the ENTIRE drive train.

    So your clicking noise could be coming from any point in that STRESSED drive train.

    Your SH-AWD system is, at base, a simple FWD system. Therefore since loss of traction on the front wheels is such a HUGE threat to safety the TC system is tuned to be HYPER-ACTIVE, absolute INSTANT activation at even the slighest hind or indication of a loss of traction event.

    Are you by any chance in the habit of even moderately accelerating into, out of, a turn..?

    Accelerating into a turn, a tight turn especially, on a low traction, WET, surface might result in a period of brief wheelspin/slip, thereby activating TC, Traction Control, engine dethrottling and the "clicking" from pulsating front brake application.

    "over bumps"

    Wheelspin/slip very often occurs in that situation and that brings TC into play if no braking is involved.

    "over bumps while (lightly) braking"

    Brief wheelspin/slip often results from loss of traction due to tire rebound and that results in brief, one "click" ABS activation.
  • tunlotunlo Posts: 7
    thanx for the info wwest. Being not a car fanatic so much so not a drive train expert your explanation do sound on par with your reasoning. At a stop prep for a turn I usually take off(not gradually) into the turn unless there's obstruction. It is on a gradual acceleration into a turn the click sound appears. Might be what you explained FWD losses traction and RWD kicks in putting stress on the ENTIRE drive train.

    If my front wheel losses traction and my car is 4 yrs old, tires may be thinning out on the thread. Can replacing tires solve the problem? or could it be sth with the drive train itself?

    when I parallel parked into a space and adjust the car more to the curb by turn left and right, on reverse i would hear clicks too. Does that also mean stress is transferred to the drive training causing TC system to come on in turn activating the ABS?

    I didn't get a chance to really pull out the SH-AWD fuses to see click sound disappear. I will try it this weekend and will post my findings afterward.

    If clicking sound would be appeared normal (ABS activation) from stresses on drive train what can be done to cure it? There wasn't any clicking ever since I purchased the car until the last 6-months or so.
  • tunlotunlo Posts: 7
    well... sometimes i turn without turning on turn signal and clicking still comes on.
  • tunlotunlo Posts: 7
    Get a Gel Battery... that will SOLVE your BATTERY DYING Problem!
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