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Acura MDX Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    "..clicking sound when turning either direction..."

    What you seem to be describing is common to a 4WD system that uses a locked center differential which is inadvertently left engaged on a tractive surface. So that clicking sound CAN be the result of the SH-AWD system keeping the rear drive too tightly engaged during tight and/or low speed turns.

    A R/awd system, base REAR drive vehicle, would NEVER have the front drive engaged while turning turning tightly, high lateral loads on the front wheels, But a F/awd system such as the SH-AWD system absolutely MUST keep the rear drive engaged while turning. Otherwise the combined stress on the front wheels' traction coefficient due to having to support drive torque, FULL drive torque, along with HIGH lateral forces might very well result in loss of traction altogether.

    Pull the fuse(s) for the SH-AWD system while the ignition is off and see if the clicking sound remains.

    The early MDX's with the VTM-4 F/awd system had premature transaxle failures for this very reason, both front and rear drive torque applied simultaneously simply resulted in to much stress, driveline windup and/or tire scrubbing, and that resulted in failure of the weakest link, the transaxles.
  • QUICK - have your torque converter checked before your warranty is up. I had exact problems, they told me to replace the original tires, new balance, new alignment ($2000). Fast forward 2 weeks - I drove a stick shift for many years & could feel the "tug & shake" of improper shifting ... had the technician go for a 40min drive with me ON HIGHWAY where the car could heat up & really experience its issues. The converter is being replaced & they told me that I'd have to replace 2 front brake routers on my own ... going to ask corporate to pay for that too ... after reading this blog.
  • Same! grinding right after speed bump... tried with brake, tried w/ gas, tried neutral - all the same. Have had my 07 T&E 48k into the shop more times than I'd like since Nov06 purchase. Had technician drive it over bumps, but he couldn't recreate. Put 4 new tires on balance, alignment ... one month later shuddering, gears seem off, smells funny ... they are replacing my torque converter and hopefully, full transmission. I've also had trouble with one of the doors unlocking, the battery dying very quickly when engine is off / radio on, and the back seat getting "stuck" in the down position. Bought Acura for its reliability, but definitely questioning my purchase.
  • tunlotunlo Posts: 7
    ok... just got my car back 2 days ago after dealer replaced front left struct with them indicating internal struct damage. Took the car for a drive and indeed drives like new with new struct over bumps. But sadly the darn clicking sound still lurks when turning But not as loud as before. Will need to put the car back to the dealer for Another Check. my 07 have 37K+ on it.... warranty almost run out.

    What would pulling fuse(s) off for SH-AWD do?

    I'm like thinking could there be something lose around the axles when turning something is in the way or rubbing against it causing the stupid clicking sound?
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    edited October 2010
    What would pulling the SH-AWD system fuse do..??

    Lower the stress on the drive train, the ENTIRE drive train. When your SH-AWD system pre-emptively engages the rear drive on a tractive surface that often results in a rather serious level of driveline windup and/or tire scrubbing, most especailly so in a low speed turn, tight turn or accelerating turn even moreso.

    IMMHO what is most needed for the SH-AWD system, or ANY pre-emptive F/awd system, is the ability of the driver to enable (not "engage") it ONLY in known or suspected low traction conditions. It could also be made reactive, activating ONLY with actual wheelspin/slip and the following 2-3 minutes, in order to cover instances of which the driver might not be aware in advance.
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    "..darn clicking sound.."

    We're not, I hope, talking about the clicking sound at/within the stearing wheel resulting from the turn signal cancel mechanism.?

    "Replaced the left front strut.."
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    "..it is most noticeable on a stop and make turn gradually..."

    Low speed acceleration, and/or acceleration into a turn, will ALWAYS result in the SH-AWD system engaging, PRE-EMPTIVELY engaging, the rear drive. That, in turn, should the tire contact surface be reasonably tractive, will end up putting a LOT of undue stress on the ENTIRE drive train.

    So your clicking noise could be coming from any point in that STRESSED drive train.

    Your SH-AWD system is, at base, a simple FWD system. Therefore since loss of traction on the front wheels is such a HUGE threat to safety the TC system is tuned to be HYPER-ACTIVE, absolute INSTANT activation at even the slighest hind or indication of a loss of traction event.

    Are you by any chance in the habit of even moderately accelerating into, out of, a turn..?

    Accelerating into a turn, a tight turn especially, on a low traction, WET, surface might result in a period of brief wheelspin/slip, thereby activating TC, Traction Control, engine dethrottling and the "clicking" from pulsating front brake application.

    "over bumps"

    Wheelspin/slip very often occurs in that situation and that brings TC into play if no braking is involved.

    "over bumps while (lightly) braking"

    Brief wheelspin/slip often results from loss of traction due to tire rebound and that results in brief, one "click" ABS activation.
  • tunlotunlo Posts: 7
    thanx for the info wwest. Being not a car fanatic so much so not a drive train expert your explanation do sound on par with your reasoning. At a stop prep for a turn I usually take off(not gradually) into the turn unless there's obstruction. It is on a gradual acceleration into a turn the click sound appears. Might be what you explained FWD losses traction and RWD kicks in putting stress on the ENTIRE drive train.

    If my front wheel losses traction and my car is 4 yrs old, tires may be thinning out on the thread. Can replacing tires solve the problem? or could it be sth with the drive train itself?

    when I parallel parked into a space and adjust the car more to the curb by turn left and right, on reverse i would hear clicks too. Does that also mean stress is transferred to the drive training causing TC system to come on in turn activating the ABS?

    I didn't get a chance to really pull out the SH-AWD fuses to see click sound disappear. I will try it this weekend and will post my findings afterward.

    If clicking sound would be appeared normal (ABS activation) from stresses on drive train what can be done to cure it? There wasn't any clicking ever since I purchased the car until the last 6-months or so.
  • tunlotunlo Posts: 7
    well... sometimes i turn without turning on turn signal and clicking still comes on.
  • tunlotunlo Posts: 7
    Get a Gel Battery... that will SOLVE your BATTERY DYING Problem!
  • tunlotunlo Posts: 7
    Finally.... Clicking grinding noise fixed. Took my car to the shop for all the fingers I can count. Dealer have changed both rear structs, front left struct, cv joints... All the didn't fix my problems until recent they found internal damage on my front left axle. After the replacement the damn sound is gone and the car drives much better. Took at least two months to find the culprit of my problem. Like I said before I'm glad they replaced most of my structs before my warranty runs out in 2000 miles.
  • The stock Michelin latitude on 08 MDX need to be replaced.
    I got multiple quotes all in the rnage of ~$1240.
    I read some good reviews about nitto nt420S tires including one MDX owner.
    Got discount tire to match the price quoted by onlinetires.com, ~$600 out the door (no tire protection warranty).
    Given nitto's are almost 50% of Michelin was wondering if anyone else has tried the tires out and what the experience was.
    Really leaning towards trying them out though any feedback would be great.
    Thanks
  • Not sure if this will help...I have an 03 MDX and switched to Yokohama Geolanders. They're great rides and very quiet.
  • Thank You, it does help to know these tires are also a option. I checked the price and still around $450 cheaper than Michelin.
    Thanks
  • I put the nitto 420s on my wife's '07 MDX.
    (compared to the oem Michelin's)

    better wet & dry traction have not driven them in the snow yet, a little more road noise in the cabin, we had vibration & balance issues with the michelins the dealer replaced all 4 michelin tires because they could not road force balance them within spec. so far no vibration issues with the nitto. I had them road force balanced & the mechanic made it a point to tell me that they balanced very nicely. Which says alot for the quality of manufacturing of the tires

    My vote is for the nitto. Great tire for the money.
  • Thanks for the feedback bloomy63. 2 of my Michelin tires got damaged on the side wall a year after (within a period of 3 months) we bought the MDX, had to shell out over $500 to replace them (road hazard expires after 1 year).
    Since then we have been having the vibration issue also.
    I guess i will be going with Nitto even if there is little more noise, specially since the total price is half of Michelin's.
    .
    Thanks
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    Did you check the owner's manual regarding buying/replacing anything less than all 4 tires simultaneously..?

    I suspect it will say those new tires should go on the rear ONLY.

    Anything else and you may have been over-stressing your F/awd driveline components.
  • Actually i didnt' and the dealer did not mention anything either. Both replacement tires were bought from the dealer.
    My rear tires are a little more worn out than the front ones at this point (dealer kept on rotating them and was aware of the fact i had 2 newer tires).
    At this point i will be replacing all four in a couple of weeks anyways.
    Thanks for the pointer though i will check the manual also.
    I will let folks know of my experience with Nitto in case others are interested.
    Thanks
  • Just got the Nitto's installed. Total out the door $672 (didn't buy the $92 road hazard warranty).
    First impression in positive. I didn't feel much difference between the Michelin and Nittos. Probably a 10%-15% more road noise though not bothersome at all and hardly noticeable.
    For ~$600 less than Michelin i think they are very well worth it.
  • I bought my MDX one month ago; I found out after two weeks that there was a bump at the back of the ceiling. when I brought back to the deal, they refused to repair and told me that was not under warranty; I should find it out when receiving the car. They said I must pressure it and make the bump (I told them that I found out when I was trying to installing a dog screen: pressure the bottom and top)- but the fact is that it was there before I did anything. Is there a way I can make them repair this? Thanks.
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