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Acura MDX Maintenance and Repair



  • I have a 2008. vibration starts around 60mph. worse at 70 to 75. swerve left at 75 and vibration goes away, swerve right at 75mph and it is more pronounced. dealer said replace left wheel and wheel bearing. replaced wheel bearing on left side and rebalanced wheels (walmart said wheel looked fine to them)...vibration still there...rotated wheels, vibration still there. please help
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    Front CV joints.
  • Where can u buy axles. Parts stores don't carry
  • Not sure if gas pedal will vibrate due to axle, do you hear a clicking sound from the front when you turn left or right ? though i am not an expert
    Here are some sites for parts
  • matth2matth2 Posts: 12
    My wife was rear ended on Sat. Whole bumper, left muffler, tailgate and left D pillar are damaged. I want OEM parts and done close to factory as possible. Can't imagine what ins adjuster is going to nickel and dime me for. I want some good advice as I enter this lousy situation.

    thanks in advance
  • JBaumgartJBaumgart Posts: 890
    You have the right to take it to the shop of your choice. In getting bids from reputable shops (do your homework if you don't already know) insist that you want OEM parts. Then decide which one you are most comfortable with and insist with the adjuster that's who you want to use. Good luck.
  • steverstever YooperlandPosts: 39,984
    The Questions About Auto Insurance & Accidents discussion may be helpful too.

    Need help navigating? - or send a private message by clicking on my name.

  • pony5pony5 Posts: 1
    After spending several grand for a rebuilt transmission that I did not need, I finally solved the metal scratching noise that was the source of the 40MPH problem. It was the coupling on the mid section of the driveline. Somehow, the metal bearing in the collar wore out and was the source of the unpleasant noise. The replacement required the changing of the whole driveshaft, so there goes more money for repair. What an expensive repair.
  • Have similar 07 MDX w/sp with 33k on odometer. It drives so smooth and quiet at 90-95 mph that I don't realize I am driving that speed.
  • Have 2008 MDX with Tech pckg and grinding always occurs when speeding up just after speed bump since car was new. It seems related to being in sports mode as less likely to occur if in comfort. Definitely related to driving too fast coming off the bump. Mechanic had hard time hearing it until I took him over the bumps on my street. Recommended I drive slower over the bumps. I change to comfort mode; mechanic claims everything is fine.
  • Have 08 MDX with 32k on odometer. Took it to dealer for oil change (A1 service message). Dealer wanted to service differential, transfer case and exchange brake fluid. alone with service D (replacing transmission fluid, coolant flush, change engine and cabin filter as well as the air pollution filter). All I can find in owners manual was to have brake fluid changed after 3 yrs. No mention about changing all the other fluids except under unusual circumstances that I do not have. I told him no; just change the oil. Felt I was being had. Anyone with similar experience.
  • If this happens on bumps with sharp steel plates on roads then there is a TSB out on this issue.
    Do the web search you might be able to find the TSB number...I will see if I can find it and will post it if I can find the number
  • jensadjensad Posts: 388
    Yes indeed. I have a 08 RL and at 30k I took it in for changing transmission oil and do their "free check". They "recommended" doing exactly what you posted. I told them to do the work they were supposed to do i.e. tranny oil change.

    I always read ahead in my service book of the service requirements at the milleage intervals i.e. 30k, 36, ect....

    Oh what happened with my little service job was that when I now come in for the requiste service, they do it and have not so far again tried their "recomendations for those other services.

    Good luck to all and stay safe.

  • Have U done your scheduled maintenance intervals. If U did , those things would have been done at the scheduled maintenance. I missed my schedule and the collant became clogged. I had to have it flushed at the dealer. Luckily, they didn't make me purchase a new radiator.

    I have a problem with my 01 heater, The fuse blows out every 2 days. I took it to the dealer and they change the soilnoid and the the blower. 2 days later the fuse blew again. Anyone had this problem ? any solutions. Tomorrow I'm returning the suv to the dealer. They changed those 2 things 3 days ago. I paid $800.00 for that service
  • The maintenance manual states that the computer will tell you when they need to be done except that the brake fluid should be replaced every 3 yrs. The computer notified me of the oil change which is what I requested. Service stated that I should change the differential fluid, transaxle fluid, transmission fluid, etc. Could find no reference to changing these in the manuals so I thought that I would post this question here.
  • jensadjensad Posts: 388
    You are right Pete as to getting the services done on time. I read the manual and check off what is to be done, then after the dealer does the services they still do the check list of things that might need work.

    I usually do the easy stuff eg replace air filter, inside car filter ect and let them do the differential/oil stuff. I used to do the oil etc but I am tired of getting under the vehicle and doing it myself. I also have a 100k warranty i purchased when I got the 08 RL. (I have read these web sites over the years and checked out what went wrong before I got the RL.

    Our Honda Pilot is the junior of the mdx. So if the mdx has issues then our pilot may also but I made an inference that the RL too might have issues so I got the 100k just in case.

    Love my 08 RL, my wife has an 06 Pilot, with (honest) 35k on the speedo ni issues yet. And we keep our vehicles and get our $$ worth. And the "scheduled maintenance" makes her feel better and has kept us out of the shop at least so far. :)

    Good luck to all and take care during this hard winter.

  • Hello,
    a couple of questions before I replace break pads on my MDX. I am not sure whether to replace them or not; during last maintenance the dealer mentioned that the front pads are "getting low"...

    - Is it possible to measure break pad thickness without removing wheels? There are numerous how-to videos on Youtube, including the one where a set of hex-keys is used to see which one will slide under the caliper so that key size is your remaining break pad thickness.... Does it make sense?

    -The dealer said that they would charge $40 dollars to measure break pads wear, on top of the usual tire rotation. So - is there extra work involved in measuring break pads even after wheels are removed, or it's just a hint to change break pads?

  • jensadjensad Posts: 388
    Recently I had my aura rl serviced i.e. change oil in tranny and read end. They do without cost a 52 point inspection, (it helps them get more business) and they informed me that my brake shoes had 7 mm left which is great on my 48k miles we have logs on our 08 rl.

    Point here is it sounds to me that the dealer you are working with wants to take you to the cleaners by the $ 40 charge. (JMO) That sounds to me like "gravy money" for the dealer.

    We live in No. Cal. and competition for the consumer's business is alive and well. :) I think if you would check out your area you may find a delaer that will not charge for inspecting you brake shoes.

    Good luck to all and have wonderful day.

  • qaliqali Toronto CanadaPosts: 58
    2005 MDX Touring. I have noticed that the interior auto-dimming mirror is not functioning the way it should. Even thought the green light turns on after I push in the button for the auto-dimming function, the glare does not seem to be reduced. Any ideas on what may be going on? Does the mirror have a battery that needs to be replaced?

    Thanks in advance.
  • stantonb1stantonb1 Posts: 50
    My children have a 2010 MDX and have been experiencing a problem opening the driver's side door with the door handle. The dealer has replaced the door handle and the problem persists with the new handle. The door is definitely in the unlocked position and the door handle does not open the door. Has anyone else experienced a similar problem? The door handles on the other doors particularly the passenger door sometimes present problems with opening too. The doors are definitely in the unlocked position, the door handles simply do not function.
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