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It's gonna cost HOW much???

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  • fleetwoodsimcafleetwoodsimca Posts: 1,518
    I had an old 1951 Cadillac (YES! A Fleetwood!) during undergrad college. A local parts store dude took pity on me (and wanted my business). He knew how to cross reference my Caddy needs into Oldsmobile language. It cut my expenses considerably.
  • oldharryoldharry Posts: 413
    When I was working for a Pontiac dealer in the mid sixties, a friend who was parts manager at the Chevy dealership told me that '58 Caddy's and '58 Chevies used the same generator armature. The Chevy parts listed for about $13 and cost the dealer just over $7. Caddy part cost the dealer just over $14 and listed for about $28. The local Caddy parts man ordered armatures through the Chevy dealership for $7 then sold them for $28. Now most GM parts cost the dealers the same no matter which franchise, as to selling price, it is after all, maunfacturer's SUGGESTED retail price.

    Harry
  • fleetwoodsimcafleetwoodsimca Posts: 1,518
    Yep! Times do change. I suspect the hullabaloo some years ago over mixing brands of engines into the "wrong" vehicles may have had something to do with the parts pricing change. GM decided to make a lot of stuff GM generic, rather than Olds, Chevy, Buick, etc., specific.
  • MrShift@EdmundsMrShift@Edmunds Posts: 43,633
    Road & Track had a little piece about the relacement cost of a transmisson on a BMW 850 coupe --$5,000.
  • kinleykinley Posts: 854
    My fathers '50 Caddie Series 61 eventually had a lot of "Chevie" replacement parts on it, including the master brake cylinder. It lasted more than 10 years and 150,000 miles. Great car.
  • bbpalumbobbpalumbo Posts: 9
    Can anyone tell me APPROXIMATELY what I can expect to pay for new front brakes? I've got an appointment tomorrow for an estimate and I'd like to get an idea so I don't get "taken advantage of". Also, is there anything they will try to include that I don't need? I've got a 99 Honda Civic sedan with 53,000 miles on it, and they said the wear was 2/32. I believe they charge about $60 an hour for labor and they said it would take about an hour to do the work.
  • MrShift@EdmundsMrShift@Edmunds Posts: 43,633
    Just get a written estimate before the job starts.

    If labor is one hour, that's $60

    If you just need pads, then it's $60 + pads, which will vary but should be about....oh, $35?

    IF you need rotors those might be $25-40 apiece or more if they are the very best. Then there's the labor to remove the old rotors and put on new ones. They might also ask if you'd like wheel bearings re-packed.

    Turning the rotors rather than replacing them would cost less of course, that's just a labor charge.

    So the total price will vary depending on what the car needs and what kind of shop you are going to. If it's a large chain operation they may try to stack up the things you need as their service writers are encouraged to sell as much as possible. . If they say you need rotors ask them what the minimum thickness is for rotors on your car and what thickness your old rotors were when they measured them. If they don't know those numbers, they probably didn't do it.
    If they say the rotors have the right thickness but are "rough", then you'll have to either eyeball them yourself or take their word.

    I'd be more concerned about the quality of parts they are using and the care they use to install them then a $25 or even $50 difference from shop to shop.
  • oldharryoldharry Posts: 413
    If you live in a "salt" state, ask them if they are thouroughly bleeding the hydralics. It's a good idea even if you don'tlive in a "salt" state. Using the pressure bleeder to insure all old contaminated fluid is gone makes your brakes work better and last longer. It shouldn't add much to the price, as quality shops do it anyway.

    Harry
  • oldharryoldharry Posts: 413
    Has anyone else noticed that strut support bearings seem to be failing earlier than they used to? I find "memory steer" or "boinging" noises when turning in cars only three to five years old with less than 100 K miles all the time. Often now, I sell new struts to go with the mounts and bearings, rather than the other way around.

    Depending on the vehicle, bearings and/or mounts and bearings can add from $30 to several hundred to the strut job. When I first started doing strut jobs in the seventies, mounts were a rare addition, and frequently were still good when the second set of struts wore out. Now all I'll say is, that they seem to outlast the warranty on new cars.

    Harry
  • MrShift@EdmundsMrShift@Edmunds Posts: 43,633
    I think (just guessing) that this is an effect of the increased precision of newer cars and also perhaps the effect of stiffer suspensions and low profile tires.

    Older cars were sloppier and you didn't notice degradation of the ride as much or all the clunks and bangs.
  • fleetwoodsimcafleetwoodsimca Posts: 1,518
    I've got to tell you, replacing struts in your garage at home is not for the faint of heart. I did it several years ago on a 1986 LeBaron Chrysler GTS-- and don't look forward to another opportunity! So, how much did I save?
  • MrShift@EdmundsMrShift@Edmunds Posts: 43,633
    It's downright DANGEROUS sometimes!

    Went to appraise an '83 Porsche Targa the other day for a guy thinking of buying it. Asking price is $8,000.

    The car comes from the original owner, but it's been in dead storage 5-6 years. Straight body, no rust, no accidents, high mileage.

    So I'm lookin' at it, thinking....hmmmm....

    Needs paint, just old, faded, crazed from 17 years of sun and abrasion.

    Porsche engine not started in 6 years? Uh-oh, that's going to have to come out and be "freshened up" for sure. The garage was a bit damp and you know that moisture has bound the rings to the bottom side of the liners, or at least caused some galling.

    Car won't roll, also typical Porsche issue, the calipers will freeze from non use. So four calipers, rotors, pads.

    Tires are flat-spotted, so four of those

    Targa headliner falling down, all the door and targa weatherseals are old and dried up.

    So this car all fixed up, in today's market, maybe worth $16K

    Cost of repairs could hit $16K no problem.

    Basically the car is worthless.
  • isellhondasisellhondas Issaquah WashingtonPosts: 17,347
    Well...not really. I have to wonder, why do people do things like that? Seems like someone could have started it once in awhile?

    And, there's probably a bunch of things wrong you had no way to determine. Bad trans bearings etc.

    Too bad...
  • MrShift@EdmundsMrShift@Edmunds Posts: 43,633
    Well, it's not a classic or anything. They made so many of them we'll be old and gray (well, gray-er) by the time the SCs bring any serious money, if they ever do.

    This is a typical case of why many older "luxury" or "sports" cars don't survive....if they are too common, but pricey to repair, then the cost of restoring them exceeds their value, therefore junkyard for parts. That's where this car should go, to keep really nice SCs on the road. Or better yet, I'd gut it and use the body for a builder if I had another car with good motor and trans but smashed up or rusted.

    It's the cost of the motor that's killing this car.
  • MrShift@EdmundsMrShift@Edmunds Posts: 43,633
    So a friend brings her '96 BMW to the dealer for a check up and some work. Here's the quote:

    check engine light on -- defective secondary air pump, $450.

    needs rear brakes --$475

    power steering leak -- $600

    Now the air pump is a fairly common problem on these cars (used for emissions) and a bolt-on job, but where else you gonna get the part?

    Brakes --outrageous IMO.

    P/S leak -- no real diagnosis here. BMW lines are known to leak after a while, so what's the $600 for? A new rack at only 48K miles. Seems unlikely. And a pump shouldn't cost that.
  • fleetwoodsimcafleetwoodsimca Posts: 1,518
    What else could it be?
  • MrShift@EdmundsMrShift@Edmunds Posts: 43,633
    Yeah, well have you priced a windshield for a PT Cruiser? Not teutonic but greed none the less.
  • swschradswschrad Posts: 2,171
    list for new (double platinum) plugs on my 2000 V8 exploder is $11 each, wire kit list is $198. no wonder Motorcraft recently allowed the dealer parts departments a little leeway, like 30 to 50 percent off list, so they could sell the first set to somebody.

    there are two pricing models, as shown by videos. one is "we only need to sell ONE." the other is "we want to sell one to EVERYBODY."

    used to be there was an area in the middle, but it doesn't seem to be a "popular price" any more in anything.
  • alcan .could you tell me what the time is on replacing the intake manifold gasket ,lower, on a 98 5.7 vortex K2500 ? THANKS, DUKE IN ANTELOPE,CA
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    Gasket, Intake Manifold, R&R
    C & K 15/35 (96-99)
    V8 305(5.0L), 350(5.7L)

    w/ Air Cond
    - Upper..... 2.5
    - Lower..... 3.9

    w/o Air Cond
    - upper..... 1.5
    - lower..... 2.9

    Where cruise control interferes, add .2
This discussion has been closed.