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Toyota Sienna Care & Maintenance

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  • thanks ateiexeria

    sadly 2 of my kids are taller and i do have some adults in the car as well.... just have to live with it i guess.
  • i have seen a few posts re mid 2000 siennas and the battery draining if you leave the rear hatch open because "the computer is talking to the open hatch"....has anyone had this happen with later years?

    i park my 2010 le in a garage and usually leave the power doors and the back hatch open...so far, so good but i do not want to do it if it will drain the battery.

    thanks for any feed back.
  • I have a 2000 Toyota Sienna. How do i reset the Tire pressure censor?
  • not sure about a 2000, but my 2010 sensor came on after a 270 mile highway trip in cold weather... i just filled the tires up to the correct pressure and the light went off by itself.

    i think you can also press and hold the small round button on the drivers side dash....it is one of the switches by your knees(2010), but if the tire pressure is still low it will come back on.

    and "baba-booey to you all"
  • cptpltcptplt Posts: 1,075
    I don't think 2000s have a TPMS sensor in the wheel, IIRC prior to 07 they used the ABS system for the TPMS.
  • steine13steine13 Posts: 2,427
    Learned Friends,

    I have a 2003 Sienna CE that I bought in January '03. It was about the last '03 they had before the '04 started showing up. It now has 115k miles, and it has been an excellent car overall.

    Here is an issue that cropped up at least a couple of years ago:
    On cold mornings, when the transmission holds 2nd gear until 35-40 mph, the engine revs to ~ 3000-3500 rpm. At that time, there is a noise from under the hood that sounds like a rattling heat shield or like pinging, depending on who you ask.

    I can reproduce the noise with the car parked and the hood raised by grabbing the throttle directly. The noise appears to come from the front cylinder bank. My mechanic suspects the VVT mechanism, and I suspect it'll be spendy to fix. It also doesn't seem to be too big a deal, as it's been going for around 30k miles.
    When the car is warmed up, the noise disappears.

    Recently I was biking home from work and was passed at close range by another l Sienna with exactly the same noise... except louder.

    So I thought I'd ask: Is anybody else experiencing this noise? Has anyone had it fixed, and how? Advice and comments are much appreciated.

    Thanks in advance,
    -Mathias
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    That is correct, I got an 07 and read about that new feature when it came out.
  • siennamisiennami Posts: 116
    From what I remember about my 2000, there was a reset button(about left knee level). When you initially start the car, press it in, and it should reset, unless there's a problem with your tires.....I think! At least, that's what I remember! I have a 2007, and the button is in the same place. Good ol' Toyota....making it easier for those of us who don't particularly like change!
  • madams1madams1 Posts: 101
    For those that ordered and replaced your cabin air filter, which brand did you get and where from. I see Kinsen, NPN and TYC brands a lot on the internet. The Kinsen and TYC look similar and the NPN looks more sturdy. Called the dealer and they wanted 29.99 for a filter. I will pass on that price.

    Thanks for your input.
  • Just replaced my Cabin Filter today. Bought a Wix brand, at a local autoparts store in my town in Michigan. Paid $19 plus tax. I will try Walmart next time and see if its any cheaper.
  • mnrep2mnrep2 Posts: 200
    I just put in the FRAM Fresh Breeze cabin filter for $14.00. If can be purchased on Amazon, and features a carbon impregnated filter with an additional layer of Arm and Hammer baking poweder to boot. Smells like a new car, you won't be dissapointed ;)
  • jezmiajezmia Posts: 36
    The manufacturer's suggestion is 205 70R/15 or 205 65R/15. I would like to know from your experience which tires to use for this car. I am in FL. Brand and model if you have it. Someone suggested using tirerack.com, but with shipping and installation it seems much more expensive than getting it at a local tire store.

    I've had Uniroyal installed before with 75k miles guarantee 205 70R/15, but the steering wheel shakes when driving, only 45k in the tires. I took it to the mechanic and he did balancing and rotation, but the problem persists.

    He said I need to change the tires. I don't think he is trying to sell me new tires or anything as he suggested going to any tire place for replacement as he doesn't do that.
  • redpearlredpearl Posts: 14
    edited April 2010
    I am hoping to protect the front bumper from stone/insect dings on an upcoming road trip. Does anyone have any experience or recommendations on a front end cover such as LeBra? Appreciate your advice.
  • They all help, but don't leave them on for good; they can damage the finish.
  • madams1madams1 Posts: 101
    Was going to get the fram fresh breeze cabin air filter and noticed that the air flow arrow points downward and on the original OEM filter the air flow arrow points upward. On the non OEM filters, would you just reverse the direction of the filter. On the Fram Fresh Breeze there is more of the Arm and Hammer baking soda on one side than the other. Otherwise both sides of the filter are identical.

    Thanks for your input.
  • madams1madams1 Posts: 101
    What I meant to say on this original post is on the OEM filter, there is an arrow with the word up, which probably has nothing to do with airflow, just the position of the OEM filter. Question is with most filters I see there is an air flow arrow pointing downwards. So is the airflow always downward no matter what the filter?

    Hope this makes sense.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    I just did EXACTLY the same task yesterday, so it's fresh in my mind.

    Same replacement filter, actually - Fram fresh breeze.

    What I noticed it that the "dirty" side was facing up on the OE filter. So I looked at the flow direction of the new filter, and installed it in that direction.

    One thing I did not like - the OE filter has many, many more pleats. So the surface area is greater. The Fram filter may not flow as well. I'll check it in 10,000 miles or so to see if it clogs up sooner, but that was a bummer.

    Next time I think I'll buy an OE filter. The Fram wasn't cheap, either, IIRC $17 or so at WalMart.

    What did you pay for yours?
  • madams1madams1 Posts: 101
    Thanks, you confirmed what I thought. After I posted I realized it was probably a dumb question. I have not bought yet, but 17 bucks at Walmart. Was your OEM and fram replacement flat on the bottom with the pleats on top(fram CF9846A? I also see a CF10132 with pleats on both sides. The CF9846A shows CE/LE and the other one shows XLE/Limited. That is confusing since I have seen other sites that show you can use either one.

    Not CAF related, but when you replace your tires what brand will you be looking at? Mine have 41K and still have some tread left, but wife says they slip on takeoff sometimes in wet weather. Was looking at the Michelin Harmony or Yokohama brand.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    I got the CF10132, with pleats on both sides.

    To be honest I doubt it matters, the direction of the air flow, but I did install as per the arrows.

    Haven't shopped at all for tires yet. 30k miles and the Dunlops are still going strong. Not bad for an OE tire.
  • madams1madams1 Posts: 101
    Since you mentioned the OE filter, I found one Toyota site that sells them online. They were about 15.00 a piece plus 8.00 shipping. If you get 2 the shipping is about the same. Believe it was Toyota of Nashua. Weird, but the 2 pack was more than buying two seperatly.

    By the way, is your van an LE and was your OE filter pleated on just one side?

    I have seen the OE filter online both ways, pleated only on one side and pleasted on both sides. I assume the filter casing with accept both.

    My local dealers wanted 24.00 for one filter.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Weird that the 2-pack costs more.

    Yes, 2007 LE, and exposed pleated on both sides of the OE and the Fram filter.

    Next time I'll buy OE even if it costs more.
  • madams1madams1 Posts: 101
    Ateixeira, forgot to ask - Did you have any trouble getting the damper arm off? It looks a bit tight getting your hand in there and looks like it may be a bit tough getting the arm to slide off. Also, I get from the video that you do not have to push in very much to drop down the glove box. In the video it looks like the guy took the glove box all the way off. I thought it just hangs there after pushing in and dropping down.

    Have a great weekend!
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    edited May 2010
    It was surprisingly easy, actually.

    I didn't even see the video - I just followed the instructions in the owner's manual.

    Very easy job, took me just 2 minutes, maybe.

    PS Yes it sort of just hangs there.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Goodyear Auto Center did my last oil change, and the oil filter housing is too tight.

    I usually do my own oil, but this was in the middle of the huge blizzard we had.

    Any how, I tried a wrench, failed, tried a metal 65/67 filter wrench on a ratchet, failed, then tried another plastic 65/67 filter wrench from NAPA, failed yet again.

    This thing seems bonded on.

    Any advice?

    Will a 64mm filter wrench do it?

    Should I try a strap wrench or a clasp-style?

    Or take it back and demand they torque it to spec?
  • steine13steine13 Posts: 2,427
    Don't go back. If it's "doable," do it yourself. If it's not doable, they will mess it up... they'll be on the hook for it, but you really want these goons to get creative on your car?

    The filter wrench on a ratchet is no good... by design, there's only so much torque you can put on there... makes ya wish they had used one of those to tighten...

    A strap wrench is probably your best bet, but dolce, dolce. If you break the filter w/out getting it off, it's tow-truck time.

    If you feel strong in the faith, and have room to maneuver, a really large screwdriver from Sears, rammed through the center off the filter, makes an excellent and proven wrench. However, once you start, there's no going back.

    First, try the strap wrench, but don't twist to more than a little... you still need flow to drive it to a "real" shop.

    This would bother me not a little. How hard is it to do this right? Like you, I change my own oil, and I tighten the filter by hand... and 9 times out of 10, remove it by hand as well.

    Good luck,
    -Mathias
  • islandvanislandvan Posts: 23
    just took my 2010 in for the 10k service and was told I must use synthetic oil. has anyone else heard this?

    Thanks
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    This is a canister/cartridge refillable type filter, so the screw driver punch idea doesn't apply.

    I may get a strap wrench for next time, though.

    I ended up taking it back yesterday, though I spoke to the Manager politely but firmly about following OE torque specs.

    They got it off, saying it wasn't difficult (doubt that). I supplied the filter and they changed it, and then topped off the oil since some was lost.

    So at least they corrected their mistake for free.

    I just hope I can get it off next time. Thing is - they can tighten using the 3/8" drive at the bottom of a removable cap, but not loosen since the cap itself comes off.

    Lesson learned - strap wrench next time and if you want to do it right, do it yourself!
  • dbj44dbj44 Posts: 1
    Was hoping someone culd tell me where the Theromstat is located
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    FWIW, I bought a huge crescent wrench, 16.5", that should help remove the filter no matter how tight the guys at Goodyear Auto made it.
  • Within a week of driving home our new 2011 Sienna XLE, we saw oil on the garage floor. After several days back at the dealership service center, it turns out that there was a defective cam housing and gasket that required replacement, and it appears we aren't the only 2011 Sienna owners with this problem already. They pretty much have to remove the top half of the engine to replace the part. Yea, right, our new Sienna with half it's engine pulled out didn't please us at all. We've owned several Toyotas now, but this by far has been a major frustration. So it's fixed, but now we keep finding all sorts of little things like loose screws, dangling wires, broken wire harnesses, etc. We wouldn't wish this problem on anybody.
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