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Toyota Sienna Care & Maintenance



  • compcodercompcoder Posts: 5
    edited August 2010
    We didn't have an oil leak, but our 2011 Sienna LE is about to get a new Cam Shaft also. I reported an Engine Knock to the Dealer.
  • freebirdfreebird Posts: 77
    I have a '99 Sienna and am investigating installing an inline power steering filter. I do not see a real good place to install on the supply side. Anyone accomplished this yet? TIA
  • cevans123cevans123 Posts: 1
    Hello. We are having this same issue of stalling when starting with our Sienna. I know this was posted a while ago, but wondering if you remember the 'fix' you found on Edmunds that was faxed to the repair house? Was it cleaning the IAC valve?
  • mweinstemweinste Posts: 3
    I think so but I sort of remember the problem as stalling when driving as well as starting.
  • wills5wills5 Posts: 1
    If your Sienna won't idle when the engine is cold, then it is likely that the IAC valve is sticking.
    Loosen your aircleaner cover by popping out the clips on the fender side. Wiggle it out of the holds on the engine side. Take the 4 inch airduct off the end by loosening the screw clamp.
    Look down the duct with a flash light. You will see that the duct splits as it enters two throttle control units. The rear-most throttle control has a square hole in the bottom of it which you can see if you hold the duct straight and the light just right. Take a piece of plastic pipe or tubing with about a 3/8-1/2" inside diameter and stick it down to this square hole. Blow Gumout carburetor cleaner or a similar product through the tubing or pipe for about 3 seconds. Let it dry for about 30 minutes and repeat. Let it dry an hour and then reattach the airduct and the air cleaner cover. Start the car. It may take a few cranks to get any excess cleaner out of the system. Unless you have waited too long befor using this technique and thus damaged the IAC valve, this should solve the problem.
  • I got a code P1150 only 2000 Sienna LE, which I guess means Bank 2 Sensor 1. I am looking at Denso replacement part. It has upstream left (234-9007) and upstream right (234-9009). Is bank 2 sensor 1, upstream left, or right?

  • sgb2003sgb2003 Posts: 44
    edited December 2011
    I am getting confusing results when looking for P1150. In one place it said it is for bank 2 sensor 1, and in another place it said bank 1 sensor 2. Anyone know exactly which one it is supposed to be?

  • gsemikegsemike Long Island, NYPosts: 1,760
    My 04 XLE with 70k is having a little bit of a hard start problem that has been diagnosed as the fuel pump. Shop is pushing me to replace the fuel pump assembly. Difference in cost between a fuel pump and fuel pump assembly is about $400. Can anyone offer insight into which is the way to go? How much more work is it to replace the pump only?

    Can anyone recommend and good online parts houses that I can source one from?
  • gsemikegsemike Long Island, NYPosts: 1,760
    My 04 XLE is in need of a fuel pump due to a hard start problem. The part is sold as an assembly, but also as just the pump. The mechanic really wants me to get the assembly, but it's about $200 more. What is the difference in labor with the two?

    Additionally, what is the process to replace it altogether? How many hours am I looking at?
  • Can anybody tell me which glove box the cabin air filter is behind in a 2011 sienna? There is an upper and lower. Thanks is advance.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Lower, here are pics that should help:

    Get an OEM filter. I bought a cheap FRAM replacement, and it had a lot fewer pleats. I won't make that mistake again.
  • shuedshued Posts: 107
    Hi, guys:
    I needs some help here for my friends 2004 Siena LE with 8 seats.
    This car is daily driven, without disconnecting battery or jump-start lately.
    Its SMOG inspection fails because of MIL/ODB II not ready.
    When I use a scanner, I find that there have two monitors not ready or
    1): O2 sensor 2): EVAP.
    1): There has no error code, (completed or pending).
    2): MIL (Check Engine Light) is NOT on.
    3): Five monitors (misfire, fuel, etc ) are completed.
    Driving looks noraml in any condition.

    Any comments? Thanks.
  • nate406nate406 Posts: 1
    You can get them at
  • steine13steine13 Posts: 2,411
    This is nasty; no error codes per se, but "not ready" is going to be beyond the shade-tree mechanic.
    Go to and ask around. With luck, someone has had this and can point you in the right direction.
    OBD-II is fantastic when it works, and it has proven very reliable, but when the system fails, you gots trouble.

    The googles and enthusiast's web sites are your friend.

    Good luck,
  • mikescmikesc Posts: 18
    Can anyone suggest a good wrench to remove the housing on a 2011 Sienna. I bought a $6 housing cap wrench at Autozone and it was just a little to big to get a grip. Do I just need to go to Toyota parts and get it?
  • steine13steine13 Posts: 2,411
    I'm not familiar with the layout on the new ones; we have an '03.
    But if it's halfway accessible, just get a strap wrench at the auto parts store... even my grocery store carries them.
    I don't k now why the factory puts them on as tightly as they do. I spin them on and take them off by hand on both our cars.
    Cheers -Mathias
  • I have a 2001 Toyota Sienna LE with ~115,000 miles. It has the check engine light ON and is now due for inspection. The codes being read are P0440, P0441 and P0446 pointing to evap problem. I have already taken it to a local mechanic who is saying that he has thoroughly checked the emissions system (using smoke test) and found no leakages or cracks anywhere. He has now asked me to go to the dealer as it requires special diagnostics/tools that he does not have. In the mechanic's words, "you are at the mercy of a toyota dealer now". Can someone please help and advice what I can do to take care of this problem. My inspection sticker has already expired. Also, when I mentioned these codes to a local Firestone service manager, he was aking me to replace three items:
    - Purge Valve
    - Canister
    - Canister Shutoff Valve
    Reading thru the information on the web, I am confused as to which valves are part of the canister and which are seperate from the canister. In other words, do I need to replace all valves seperately or are some of the values included as part of a new canister assembly. Thanks for your assistance.
  • dooper67dooper67 Posts: 22
    4 months ago during routine service, my Toyota dealer found the control arms/bushings to be separated. That was about $400 parts and $1000 labor. Today, a front spring broke, bending the control arms, and destroying a tire. Luckily, this was at slow speed and my wife could pull over safely. Would have been a different story on the expressway at 65 mph. This will be another $2400. So, these 2 repairs are almost 50% of the car's value. I didn't see this issue raised in any other forum discussions. Any thoughts on this issue? Does this sound like just bad luck, or possibly a faulty repair the first time? Should I go ahead with the repair and keep the car, or trade it in. BTW, our dealer has a very good reputation. Thanks.
  • steine13steine13 Posts: 2,411
    edited April 2013
    On a 2004, I had not heard anything of the sort ... We had the rubber bushing (insert?) on our 2003 separate as well, when the car was relatively new and barely out of warranty.
    Since I never went to the dealer for anything after the purchase, I didn't even try to get a warranty claim honored. I think it was a bad batch of control arms in 2003 -- consumer report's ratings show a black spot for that category for that year only. It would not be unthinkable that the part hasn't really changed for the redesign and the 'badness' carried into the next model year.

    The replacement part has been fine; i kept the originals to see if they can be rebuilt... they can... but you need to buy the part for the Avalon... I read that year's ago, can't give you a source.

    As far as the spring breaking: That should never happen, but I don't see how they could have caused it during the repair. Either way, you couldn't prove it.

    With a car that old -- any car, really -- you need to find a good independent mechanic to handle stuff for you. Develop a good relationship and some trust, and it'll work out for both of you.

    Cheers -Mathias
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