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Audi A6 Maintenance and Repair

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  • I am a new owner of a 2000 Audi A6, 4.2L with 63,000 miles. Car is in beautiful shape....or so I thought. Very happy with car initially, but in less than 5 weeks of ownership I had a bad experience...apparently with the transmission. I was driving about 70 mph on highway when I heard and felt a loud "thump" that seemed to slow the car down. Within 8-10 seconds, a horrible sound followed, resembling throwing a set of tools into a shredder. Not one engine light or warning. Immediately pulled over (luckily) to the side of the road and it was smoking from under the car and black fluid was streaming onto the pavement. The car broker (and Audi enthusiast) who sold me the car has since told me that it was a bolt that went loose inside the transmission and ruined it. Understandably, I'm perplexed and very disappointed. I have owned Infiniti Q45, BMW 535i and Lexus without any problems at all...all with more mileage than this one. Is this "to be expected" with an Audi?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,631
    There have been transmission issues with this model but I don't recall anything quite so drastic as that.

    MODERATOR

  • ccusickccusick Posts: 5
    I recently purchased a 2006 Audi A6. Since I purchased it I have had a problem with the car bogging down at slow speeds or when stuck in rush hour conditions. Sometimes I will hit the accelerator and nothing happens briefly also when pulling into traffic which can be dangerous. As I stated this problem is intermittent and I have had it to the dealer several times including as we speak and they can't duplicate the problem. Help!
  • liferulesliferules Posts: 531
    This is not uncommon. Search "drive by wire" and "tip lag" here and on Audi forums for loads of info. Unfortunately, I don't have time to type all the details...
  • ccusickccusick Posts: 5
    I have gained a good bit of knowledge from your prompt and will be visiting with the service department tomorrow when I pick up my car and share some of my newly gained knowledge thanks to you. Having said that it appears I am not the first or will be the last to share their thoughts ... darn it I really love the car besides this issue.

    Regards!
  • liferulesliferules Posts: 531
    Yeah, it is frustrating. You will learn how to drive it...such as avoiding starting immediately after stopping, to avoid lurching forward. The best way to avoid this is to drive in "sport" mode, which by the way, is the most fun mode IMO! I drive in "S" 75% of the time (uses more gas, but is a lot more peppy and fun).

    Best wishes.
  • I have the same problem. (2001 2.7T A6) I took the car to the dealership and they wanted $1400 to replace the two sensors. I of course drove away, hence the reason I'm fishing around the web looking for a solution.
  • ccusickccusick Posts: 5
    After I got your last posting I went and picked up my car the next morning. I was driving a Passat for three days while they searched for a problem that they would never admit exsisted. The shop foreman put a note on my receipt suggesting that I drive in sport mode as you suggested and it does indeed perform better. You really helped me to fall back in love with my A 6 and I thank you for that.... it trully is a very nice automobile.

    Happy Motoring!
  • ccusickccusick Posts: 5
    Put some Chevron high test in the tank and see if that helps also driving in S or Sport mode has really made a big difference. BTW they (AUDI) will not replace sensors on my car even though it is under warranty and they consider that a cusotmer pay option. Never use Amoco or BP gas don't know why but my car runs better without it.
  • jaydolljaydoll Posts: 120
    HI,

    My lease on the my mid life fun car(04 G35 coupe/6speed) ends in two months. Replacements I have been looking at are as follows:

    03 BMW 530/5speed/sport/prem/cold weather cost of $29,500 with CPO warranty.

    03 A6 2.7T 6 speed/prem/sport bucktet seats/luxury in Alpacka beige. Cost approx $27,500

    I was shocked at how much more comfortable and peppy the A 6 was to drive than the BMW.

    Now here is the big question- the A6 has 27K and is warranted until feb 09 via certified.

    I know everything on the 2.7 T cars costs more. Have you owners of the 2002-2204 model year 2.7Ts has lots of problems?

    I understand that forums are the place to grip about problems and not usually full of driver compliments. So, all of you A6/2.7 T owners, especially ones with the 6 speed, would you do it again?

    And lastly, what can I expect in the future for problems/repairs.

    Thanks for any thoughts.

    Ja
  • I have the same car with the same problem when I stopped for gas yesterday, starting the car again acted as if it didn't have any gas,had to floor it in order to start. why does it do that??
  • kirby2010kirby2010 Posts: 136
    From my perspective there's no question - I would buy another 2.7T w/6-speed. I have a 2001 w/70,000 miles. I've had a few problems but the dealer has dealt with all of them during a routine service interval. In the one or two instances I've had to leave the car I had a loaner. Usually I wait for it. The car is a blast to drive. I looked at BMW, Volvo, etc. I may trade next year. I really like the manual - the whole family learned on a manual - and there's not much left out there to choose from. So a 4.2 Audi is near the top of the list.

    I have the oil changed every 5,000 miles and I never, ever, drive the car anywhere less than distance enough for the water AND oil temperature to come up. And I don't merge onto the highway at 90 mph unless the temperature is up. I have a '93 Jeep Grand Cherokee that I drive to Home Depot. Five years and no dents in the doors!

    I almost got a ticket once. I drove through a radar trap and around the curve a state patrolman ran into the highway - stopping a couple lanes of traffic - to point at me and wave me over to the side of the road. By the time I got over and onto the shoulder I was 1/4 mile up from the three or four state police cars with flashing lights and patrolmen passing out tickets. My wife was pissed but she dug out the registration. Suddenly one of the troopers, not the guy that waved us over, got in his patrol car and sped past us. I looked at my wife and said "the hell with this." I told her I was taking off and if the guy that flagged us over came after us we'd tell him we thought it was the other guy and we had pulled over by mistake. Needless to say we drove the rest of the way with the cruise on at 67 mph. In case any patrolmen are reading this - we were in Arizona.
  • akiehlakiehl Posts: 1
    I just bought a 2002 A6 with 64,200 miles. The seller told me that the "vibration" at lower acceleration speeds was some worn motor mounts, which he replaced. After just 2500 miles the "vibration" has turned out to be very jerky and erratic shifting. At low speed acceleraion and sometimes around corners it feels as if it jumps gears, hesitates and then jumps into gear. I am afraid it may be transmission. However, I did take it to a reputable import dealer who drove it and was able to replicate the experience. They were very convinced that it was NOT a major transmission, but rather, simply needed a "reflash" of the computer components to correct an electrical issue. Doe sthis sound consistent with the symptoms of your transmission problem and if so, what was your course of action? thanks for your response. Andy K.
  • agentblagentbl Posts: 1
    I have a 2002 A6, 3.0 and I have a strange whistle that seems to come from "the unknown". It sounds off when the engine is cold. Then seems to just disappear. No dealership can find it. Anybody else have this problem??
  • ...So..I took my 99 A6 in to an independant mechanic this morning for the 80000 mile service...hoping to save a few bucks from the dealer. He call me and tells me I have a major front suspension problem...I shouln't drive the car on the freeway..if I have kids don't let them ride in the car....I've been driving on the freeway...haven't noticed any shaking in steering, or regular noises or anything...now not saying he's TOTALLY full of it but...has anyone had any issue with their suspension?? Is it a common issue? Cause this dude wants 1300 to replace it....seems mad suspect.....can anyone provide some insight?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,631
    I would think this grave condition could be demonstrated to you on the lift by the mechanic. Sounds like you don't have enough information.

    MODERATOR

  • dan339gdan339g Posts: 56
    I think I may have my first warranty issue with my 5 month old A6 3.2. The "one touch down/up" feature for the driver's power window, whereby it goes all the way down or up if you depress/pull the button to it's full extent of travel does not seem to be working. I pulled out the manual to see if I had inadvertently disabled this functionality in some obscure MMI sub menu option, since it had been working previously but that does not appear to be the case. The window does still function manually, and the auto feature works for all the other windows, so I'm thinking it is a just a bad switch. This wouldn't be shocking since it is the most frequently used window, but was wondering if anyone else has experienced this issue.
  • picard12picard12 Posts: 55
    After reading the A6 forum, I am convinced German engineering has gone south completely. It shows japanese technology rule supreme. I won't be shopping for audi or VW, MB, BMW.

    I will stick to Honda, toyota, nissan. mazda was bought by Ford hence its inherit ford problems.
  • i just bought a 2001 a6 2.7t and was completely unaware of how much it cost to fix these cars. anyway my comfort control modual that controls the windows, sunroof, keyless entry, and interior lighting. so i orderd the modual myself and don't have the owners manual yet so i don't knoe where it goes!!!! does anyone know where it goes??????
    thanks
  • guzzler4guzzler4 Posts: 3
    I have a 2001 A8L with approx. 55K miles and the MIL has been on for quite a while. The dealer said the codes indicated sporadic misfiring of the #2 & #4 cylinders, and the service writer says it may be due to a camshaft controller that is sticking or malfunctioning. Of course, they warned that ignoring the problem could lead to the catalytic converters failing. I have an extended warranty, but the dealer says the problem is not covered by the contract. I have tried using PROTECH to "clean" the intake system, but the light does not go out. It did go out on several occasions when the problem first occurred. I don't feel I have the power I should have, but the car seem to run fine other than that. I plan to get the light diagnosed at the dealer soon to make sure there is no other problem developing other than the occasional misfiring in those cylinders. It seems the engine monitoring devices may be overengineered, but you have to keep in mind it is a 5 valve engine. Good luck with your issue, and if I find a good cure, I'll send it along.

    Guzzler4
  • Sounds familiar to me.
    Only got rid of the problem buying the new A6 (211 HP... Smashing !!!)
    Was tempted by the BMW tough.
  • sdevinesdevine Posts: 3
    Hi. I also have an A6, mine is a 1998, and I have about 105,000 miles on mine. There are a couple of weak spots in the front suspension that you need to be aware of- the first being the tie rod ends. This is probably the one he is identifying at the most serious hazard. However- you need to check and see if there is a recall item on this and whether it applies to your car. It seems- if my memory serves me- that they had to change them to cast iron units, because the others were wearing prematurely. At any rate, I had mine done at about 80,000 so the time seems about right. Check with an Audi dealer for recalls. Otherwise, these should be replaced- but as the other guy said- he should be able to demonstrate it bad ends on the rack- there will be excessive play in them. If they are bad and you have to pay for replacing them- you are looking at $300-$400. Not $1300. Yes these are a saftey related issue and get them done SOON. The other weak point are the control arms. They are aluminum, and they have a tendency to wear out on A6's. The upper ones are cheaper, and the lower ones are more expensive- but they don't tend to go bad all at once. I had 2 uppers go bad so far. The others are just fine. We check them periodically. If one of these goes bad, you will have a clunk as it rattles where the bushing is. The bushings go bad but you can't replace them- have to get the whole arm. With one of these bad, it will clunk way before the safety part comes to play, but with the tie rod ends, I had no indication I could tell when driving. Get a second opinion, have them show you the play, get a better price. Unless of course they are all bad then the price seems about right- but unlikely. Get those tie rod ends checked! Hope this helps.
  • sdevinesdevine Posts: 3
    I have a 1998 A6, and am wanting to convert the ATF over to pure synthetic. I have been warned that it is difficult to remove all the existing ATF from the torque converter, and that I may have it diluted somewhat by the old fliud. The dealer of course wants $200 to do a normal replacement- which doesn't usually empty the torque converter. My local shop will do it for $30 plus fluid. This is my first car with an automatic, so I am not too familiar with ATF quirks. Has anyone else switched over to pure synthetic, and are there any major issues to be concerned with?
  • richer1richer1 Posts: 1
    If the PRNDL switch is bad (they now call it the multifunction switch)the auto will exhibit the conditions that you state. This is a simple job for the service department to perform. ;)
  • aka1aka1 Posts: 110
    Can anyone give me detailed instructions for an oil change, including dropping the belly pan to get to the drain plug as well as filter on a 2001 A6 2.7T. Just got done with 4/50K all inclusive maintanence... Please respond if you've actually done this your self- if you haven't no worries. I'd like to do this, but wanted to know what I was getting into. I have changed the oil on my Acura CL-just read that it was a pain to get the belly pan on the A6 removed.

    Thanks!
  • kirby2010kirby2010 Posts: 136
    I'll be looking forward to that response, too. My guess is it will include putting the car up on a lift.
  • audia6ltcaudia6ltc Posts: 1
    You probably have received your answer allready but if your A6 is like mine, the blinker relay is in the hazard switch. You have to take a puddy knife and "carefully" pry of the trim piece around the air ducts and hazard switch and then take a pair of needle nose pliers and pull HARD on the hazard switch and it will come out. Then it is merely unplugging the old and plugging in the new. Push the new unit back into the dash. When replacing the trim piece, make sure you do the top first because it has to get under the hard rubber dash overhang. Be careful because the clips on the trim piece can break easily. Hope this helps
  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    It may be this you need. ;)

    image

    You can find it here. :)

    http://kalecoauto.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2&products_id=6

    -Paul

    Just throwing some humor out there.
  • I have 2000 A6 2.7T...several times recently (randomly!) the drivers window has been stuck in the down position or halfway open, with no response from the controls. Any similar problems and resolutions would be greatly appreciated
  • kirby2010kirby2010 Posts: 136
    I've had the same problem with my 2001. First on the passenger side and then on the driver side. I had a cracked nylon rail - the thingy the widow rides up and down in. The cracked rail was binding the window and it wouldn't close without a push. The last time was out of warranty and I had it fixed at the dealer - $268.
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