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Audi A6 Maintenance and Repair

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  • Thanks again. On to Plan B....... I'll let you know how it goes.
  • hi i recently purches an 2002 Audi A6 with 86000 miles. it runs great, today i was driving and were it indicates the mpgs you are getting a 2:00h stared flashing. I turn off the car and turn it back on and it still there, any idea what it means???????????? thank you
  • There are buttons on the bottom and end of the right control arm that change the display and turn it on and off. When the car is running you can "toggle" through the options - elapsed trip time, miles per gallon, etc. I don't take long trips very often but when I do the 2:00h will pop up after I've been driving for two hours - even if I have the display set for miles per gallon.

    BTW - I have a 2001 2.7T w/6-speed. 102,000 miles so far (bought new). The adjustment for the lumbar support doesn't adjust. Otherwise no problems.
  • thank you kirby2010 that makes alot of sense I appreciate your answer. I have another problem, my control panel indicates that the right rear door is open but it is close, i open the door and close it but it still indicates that it is opened, when im driving the interior lights flash and the rear door appear in the panel. Im wondering where the door sensor is at, and if it is expensive to fix . THANK YOU
  • My wife's A6 didn't make it home from the gym the other day. Turn the key, absolutely nothing. We live in Northern Minnesota where there are not a lot of import dealers or mechanics, but my regular mechanic determined that the part in the steering column that tells the ignition that the car is in gear is broken. Part of it even fell out when he took the steering column apart. I just need to know what this part is called, where I can find it, how much it costs, and how difficult it would be for me or my mechanic to replace. Thanks.
  • HI everyone,

    I have a 1999 Audi A6 and the power windows and sunroof don't work.Is that function is controlled by the main window switch?And is there another fuse for the lights because I tried replacing a fuse and they still didn't work.

    Thanks
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,013
    I think you're going to need the repair manual to figure this out. Basically the key operates a little cam that works a key lock solenoid that sends a signal to the gear shifter. Cars have different systems but it sounds like your Audi has a mechanical/electrical function in the steering column.

    I'm sure the Audi dealer's parts counter has a diagram of all the parts on microfiche or on CD, which they might even print out for you since you're going to have to buy the parts from them anyway.

    Obviously something came loose in the steering column--either the lock, the cam, or the lock solenoid.

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  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    1. Not really. After the initial warranty, you pretty much foot the bill. BMW's CPO program and 100k warranty is IMO much stronger (previously own 2002 325xi and 2005 645ci).

    2. It can. You using the button to start or the key? button start seems a bit flaky on ours.

    3. I'd probably change oil yourself, just for peace of mind. I use Mobil 1 or Castrol (both meet VW/Audi specs - just verify the label). Can't recall if it is 5w30 or 0w40 that I used.

    4. You don't have to remove the underside if you hvae the right tools. Filter is on TOP of the engine under that black cover just behind the grey header cover. I'm NOT talking about the black cover that houses the filter/brake reservoir, etc. If you have a fluid extractor, you can suck it out that way via the dipstick. I do that while the A6 is on wheel ramps and it forces oil to the back of the pan. Once I get all I can, I THEN remove the underside cover (silver button screws turn 90 degrees and come right out - easy), open the drain plug and get the remaining fluid. Be careful getting the oil filter out from the top (need 36mm socket IIRC). If you're not careful, you'll get oil all over the engine as you tip it. Plastic baggies are a HUGE help here.

    Hope that answers your questions.

    I can say after owning this A6 that we will NOT buy another. Even spark plugs (from the dealer) are 19.00 each. I got some NGK's for our A6 online for 8.00 each, which is still high, but a LOT easier to stomach. I'm putting on new pads tomorrow, but they're not dealer. They are aftermarket EBC pads (Redstuff) and they're ceramic.

    I'd recommend a Bentley manual if you plan on doing more maintenance yourself. Knowing how to take the stuff apart will be 95% of your problem. If you figure out how to get to the cabin filter, let me know! :)

    -Paul
  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    If you are buying off lease, get the maintenance contract and/or extended warranty. AND make sure you know what is covered. Things like spark plugs run 20.00 each from the dealer and 130+ for front pads. Maintenance will add up QUICK if you're not careful. Some maint. warranties cover wear/tear like brakes and wipers. Some don't.

    -Paul
  • I have the same exact problem in my 99 A6.
  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    Had a comparable problem in my 2002 BMW 325xi. Turns out the problem was a cluster controller unit failure (mainly a dashboard computer issue).

    May be something similar here for your 99 CVT.

    -Paul
  • I had a head cover gasket leak which resulted in a light that says "OIL" to blink for up to 1 minutes every time I turned the car on. The light would go away and be replaced with the regular odometer reading every time. I had the gasket replaced and the leak stopped, but the OIL lamp still blinks every time I turn on the engine. I would appreciate any advice on how to reset the light.
    Thanks.
  • I have a 2002 A6 that has either blown head gaskets on both banks or a combination of blown gaskets and cracked heads. Has anyone had experiance repairing this with products like "Thermagasket". Or is the repair easily done yourself with a repair manual? Shop estimates range from $1900 to $5000 to repair.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,013
    Nothing in a can is going to save you I'm very sorry to say, and it's not a very easy repair DIY either. Of course I don't know your skill level with tools, mechanicals, etc.

    RE: Flickering oil light -- I believe on the A6 there is a high rpm oil light and a low rpm oil light, so I'd suspect a bad sensor. You don't have the 1.8T engine so sludge should not be an issue for you.

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  • Does anyone have any information,..i.e..description of the relays under the driver side dash. Here is a list of the numbers on the top of each relay-
    204
    213
    372
    389
    392
    387
    381
    267
    204
    205
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,013
    year/engine size?

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  • $950.00?!?!?!?

    If you truly just need the two cv boots replaced, it should not cost you anywhere near that amount. Even if you needed both of the axles replaced as well, that would still be very expensive.

    A lot of these repairs you can get done from repair shops that specialize in Bosch/OEM parts. I own a 2001 A6 2.7T with almost 140,000 miles on it. I had both of the front cv axles and boots replaced for just under $600. I'm pretty sure that the boot itself is like a $30 part.
  • i have 1998 audi 2.4 se does exactly the same thing if you solved please please please let me know regards david
  • i have a 1998 audi 2.4 that works great until the rev counter goes to zero and then i get oil pressure and abs warnings 15 mins later its all good then does same again its driving me nuts any ideas please
  • colin123- the starting problem ended up being an electrical problem. The Transmission switch was getting intermittent power. It took a trip to the local shop but it was solved. I also had a problem with the engine slowly overheating. Brought it to the same shop and i was quoted a water pump, timing belt, thermostat, and other "goodies". Brought it to a specialist who charges dirt and did the job (just the thermostat) for 150. Find one of them haha :sick:
  • : a pattern develops on my audi with abs/oil light/rev counter it is thermal that is it works find when fully cold late at night but fails when either engine or weather is warm ? how do i disconnect abs ecu to see if tacho then works apologies if i am in wropng place new to this best regards david
  • len55len55 Posts: 7
    I have a 2006 A6 and periodically get the parking brake malfunction message displayed along with a loud warning sound (which keeps repeating). This only happens when I am driving and the cruise control is engaged and has been in use for several hundred miles. I have taken it into service several times. They see the messages recorded in the log but have checked out the parking brake and there are no problems. If I turn off the cruise control then the warning message goes away. Service cannot find the cause of the problem. Has anyone had a similar problem? Does anyone have any suggestions? Could this be a problem with the cruise control? Or with the parking brake sensor? Or the computer?
  • treplying to myself in case anyone ha similar prob now know fault is in abs electonics attatched to pump this fault is definately thermal if i spray with freezer can fault goes away in 1 minute will post again with likely culprit and to let know when problem gone if anyone watching let me know can post more specific info if required
  • I own an Audi A6 2.0 TDI. Sometimes, (once a week or so), the engine revs by itself to 1500rpm without any reason. The gearbox is 7 speed auto. This may take from 10 to 20 mins. When you brake and slow down to almost a halt, the engine rpm drops to 1000 (not 900 which is the normal revs). Any idea what is wrong?
  • Paul,

    Thank you for your response..........

    Here goes.... Bought the car with 46k miles.

    Car has 48k miles and had the following problems:

    Hazard switch kept falling out of dash - replaced
    Right B-Pillar AC vent not blowing - replaced
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MkG60oRDmmQ - that was the cold start noise I was hearing.

    That was the beginning of my woes. Initial dealer I bought it from, I will keep them unnamed at this point, stated they could not fix that problem because it did not trip a computer fault. Mind you, they reproduced that sound, even in my presence. Their conclusion - wait till the part breaks so they can replace it. 70mph on the highway and THAT part breaks, I can't say that would be a nice thought. None-the-less that is what they told me.

    Brought it back to that dealer at least 5 times when the noise was getting worse and more frequent, they told me the same thing. Frustration doesn't begin to describe my feelings at that time.

    Brought it to another dealer, they also could not trip any computer faults. Difference here? They told me they needed to keep the car overnight to reproduce the sound and single out the part that was causing the problem. They found a hole in the exhaust manifold(somewhere) which was caused by rust. Replaced that part which fixed THAT noise, total cost $2,000+ which would not have been covered by CPO, 2k more miles and I would have had to foot the bill.

    Now, with that fixed they heard another noise which was attributed to a worn timing chain tensioner? My car is on lifts, engine and tranny out. Can't imagine the cost of parts and labor on this.

    So far I am very pleased with this dealer as they are at least trying to fix the problem.

    Oh yeah, my bluetooth is working on/off. Every 10 or so connects I get a "telephone notes" screen on the MMI display and lose entire control over the telephone. I hope this dealer at least updates my MMI which would hopefully fix the issue.

    Suspension is VERY noise over rough roads.

    Car lurches in second gear at about 15mph when I ease of the accelerator.

    That car is beautiful, is very solid and is very stable at +60mph. If all of these issues are resolved and no other appear, I would be a very happy customer as this is my first venture into the 4 ring world. I am not trying to cause any wars or anything but, I have had 3 BMW's, 1 - 335i(52k miles), 1 328ci(82k miles sold), M5 (62k miles) with not 1 issue.
  • Is there any site for Audi A6 Repair Manual (2001) on the net?

    Where is the temperature sensor located for Audi a6 2.7 Quattro?

    Thanks

    Subhash Sen
  • Can anyone tell me how to remove my climate control module? I have the stereo out but can't seem to find a way to remove the cover plate to get to the module???
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,013
    Looks like it's in a coolant pipe, left rear of engine behind intake manifold.

    For a manual you might try:

    1. www.helminc.com

    2. public library

    3. eBay

    4. www.amazon.com

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  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,013
    You mean the AC control head? You carefully pry off the trim plate and then there are two screws to undo the control head from the console and then pry up the tabs to remove the connector from the control head.

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  • Has anyone changed the dash lights in an A6? Most of mine have burnt out and it is getting hard to see the speedo at night. Is this a hard project since I know Audi doesn't make anything simple???
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