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Audi A6 Maintenance and Repair

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  • Hi Mike:
    I've had my A6 Quattro since Aug 09, a 2005 model, First sold in July 04.
    I mention this first as that's the transition date in Europe for the "New Generation Model"I,E,.The larger grill and longer chassis/body styling with the Audi designation code (4F C6) or similar.
    I'm not sure the cooling fan is the origin of this noise, my sound is more like a Werrrrrr! (Winding down) as you mentioned.
    The cooling fans in my A6 are mounted on the rear side of the radiator and activated by Temperature sensors which monitor general engine temperature. My sound only occurs during engine shut down not during normal driving. The Coolant temperature is regulated by the Thermostat in the water/coolant system.
    So ! if your "Engine Temp Gauge is within Normal Operation range then two things must apply;
    A. The Thermostat is working (opening and closing) based on Coolant water temperature.
    B. The overall Engine Temperature is in a nominal range so the Fans are not even
    activated to pull additional air through the Radiator thereby reducing the coolant/Eng.Temp.
    That's why I don't think it's a Radiator Cooling Fan noise.
    My ears tell me it originates from the middle of the car, which leads me to believe it's a normal Audi Transmission noise.
    Personally I like to think it sounds more like a Airliner Turbine Engine Shut down.
    Final note, if you have the vehicle maintenance records, from the dealer/previous owner you will be better informed about your new purchase. :lemon:
    Sounds to me as though you have sensitive hearing as I do, not always an advantage when it comes to complex mechanical devices. Or to put it another way:
    Don't worry Be Happy
    :shades:

    Best regards
    jkAudiA6
  • Hi Marley Barr ! (Jodar)
    Ref: "Just a Vanity Cover & Serves no purpose"

    Another confirmation "Ethics Gone astray" that car owners should take to heart.
    ;) ;)

    I've worked as a service adviser for ten plus years and I always took pride in the fact that I wanted to find the problem that would make the customer (a.) happy (b.) want to come back. But I found that on two different occasions in my "Service Adviser Years" the dealers did not want us to spend to much time searching for a noise or the reason a part feel off. Quiet simply, it just does not pay. In all fairness to the dealerships the service department, most often, is the only constant income and the technicians are on a commission bases as are the parts guys and Service Advisers.

    More to the point, that Ground cover as it's referred to in Formula One Racing is critical to the overall Aerodynamic Coefficient performance of the Vehicle. Audi would not spend money on a part if it was not needed to improve performance and efficiency. The answer you got is a joke don't you think: :surprise: Think about it ! how many people do you know that would actually crawl under a car, for "Vanities Sake" to look at your Ground cover? :confuse:
    Final Note: In the middle upper and pure luxury class vehicles you are getting new technologies and your paying a price for that. What they, the Mfg's, don't tell you is that these toys are Highly technical machines and need, in some cases special tools including computers and software to diagnose and replace parts. Notice I did not say repair parts. To put it another way! "the throw away mentality of the early seventies, developed in Japan, has reached the Automotive industry."
    If mine ever falls off, you can bet I'll go back and pick it up, first because it's mine and second because it probably cost more than I want to pay to replace it.
    These are the primary reason's I try to learn as much as I can about my $60,000 Dollar Vehicle before I accept an answer like that. It is, in my opinion, an a-front to ones intelligence to even suggest such a thing.

    Best Regards
    :shades:
    jkAudiA6
  • allmet33allmet33 Posts: 3,557
    Jkaudia6...thanks for the reply. Since my posting, I had gone to a couple of different mechanics that specialize in the Europeans makes and all of them said the winding down noise was normal. As you described it as turbine engine shutting down. Since then, it is something I have grown use to and it no longer sticks out like a sore thumb.

    To date, the car is running great, getting ready to turn 75k miles. In the back of my mind, the only real concern I have is the transmission fluid. Everyone affiliated with Audi says the fluid is a lifetime fluid and does not get changed, but in my last two that have had a version of Shiftronic, the fluid required replacement around every 30k miles.

    Happy Holidays!!!
    Mike
  • Happy Thanksgiving Mike,

    Thanks for getting back to me, appreciated it.
    As it pertains to your Transmission fluid change:
    I read somewhere on this page somebody had paid 350 Dollars for a Transmission
    fluid change. Unfortunately I don't remember if it was a 4F/C6 (Our Model) or an older Audi.
    That price alone would be enough to cause me to follow the Mfg's :blush: recommendation. But I'm old school as it pertains to Oil changes in general. I know technology has advanced and certainly the transmission does not have all the pollution factors of and engine, it's sealed basically. In my Audi Manual I remember reading something about that too. :D
    I've only been on this Forum a short time but my first impression is that most all of the major problems with Audi's are with the previous (pre-July 2004) or older.
    In the current "Large Grill" model and related Face lifts, the "TipTronic" as it's referred to in Europe is the one to have.
    Here is a web page that will fill in most of the blanks regarding do's and dont's
    (The CAR BIBEL.com).
    As a final note what ultimately got me turned on to the Audi was it's record of the last 8 years at the 24 hour race @ Le Man France. With Seven Straight wins taking second place last year after losing to Peugeot. And the Amazing thing was they've won the last two years with a V10 (Cylinder) Diesel. They will be back with an RS15 next year.
    Save yourself allot of time and gas unless you enjoy conversing with service personnel. Another Web Page I ran in to a couple of weeks ago.
    " Erwin.com" is an Official Audi Web Page were you can by manuals, tool recommendations, and servicing information on a flat rate basis. If you have enough time for turning your own Screw driver and enjoy it, go to the horses mouth
    for the write info.
    Oooooop's Almost forgot: In the Operations manual it say's don't ever downshift into the "S =Sport Mode" unless your ground speed is less than 5 miles/hr."
    And my tip: "Don't ever use "Sport Mode" unless you've got lot's of room to Stop
    and no one is in front of you for at least one mile". Not following the first of these two rules will cost you either a new Transmission or speeding ticket/accident.

    Well Have a great Weekend.
    Best Regards
    jkAudiA6 :shades:
  • allmet33allmet33 Posts: 3,557
    JkAudiA6...once again, thanks for the feedback.

    I had mentioned Shiftronic because that's what is is called in the Hyundai vehicles I have owned (02 Sonata & 06 Azera). I have noticed with those cars that as the miles pile up, transmission shifting becomes noticably different (rougher or delayed) and as soon as the fluid has been changed...smooth sailing. The only difference I've noticed in the A6 is when I'm coming to a stop with the car in manual mode. Right when the car is about to come to a stop, the transmission downshifts into 1st and it's a very noticeable downshift (in my Azera you notice nothing), however in auto mode...there is not noticeable downshift into 1st as you come to a stop. Other than that...the car is running GREAT!!!

    I am actually getting ready to put it in the shop for the 75k mile "tune-up". I will also be replacing my front rotors (got warped when the inspection was done) and new ceramic pads all the way around. I will definitely be checking out the sources you provided. Once again...THANKS!!! :shades:

    Mike
  • Hey Mike, your on line, OK.
    I've never owned any other cars except American and German.
    But here's a pointer on Brakes in the A6 Quattro.
    This car has a curb weight of just over two (2) tons, that's allot of weight to stop.
    I live in an area with lots of hills, you go up, or you roll down. I found the TipTronic
    tends not to down shift when rolling down hill, so simply shift to manual mode and down shift to 5 then 4th as the conditions, speed etc. warrants.
    I'm sure there are differences between Hyundai and Audi in many areas. I consider them trade offs. Your explanation of how the TipTronic shifts while stopping in "Manual Mode" is correct, and normal (two Maybe 3 Seconds), it's manual mode. When the car is standing still the ECU senses that and shifts the trans to 1st Gear.In Automatic mode it is pre-programed based on Parameter Tables stored in the ECU for the Trans but vehicle speed is still considered.

    Mike Are you pulling my Leg???? ;) :confuse:
    WOOOOOOOO STOP, Tune-up and Ceramic Brake Pads with Steel Rotors:
    Your decision, but I'd give that a bit more consideration: Here's why!
    a. Ceramic Brake pads will most likely eat your rotors up unless you intend to install Ceramic Rotors as well. Correct me if I'm wrong, but I've never heard of Ceramic brake pads, Rotors yes, I'm not sure what the appropriate composition is for brake pads used with Ceramic Rotors.
    As for tune-up on an Audi, BMW, Mercedes.......... What are you going to Tune-up?
    They all have Electronic Ignition, with High Voltage Coils for each Spark Plug. The onboard ECU (Electronic Control Unit) regulates Air Flow, Fuel Volume, Spark Timing, Valve opening and closing, A second Control unit monitors your driving habits as it pertains to shifting of the Transmission and store those perameters
    in a memory location in the Trans ECU.
    If your on the 'Audi/VW CarLife or Carlife Plus program, the service intervals are
    either annually or every two years depending on the last service interval stored in the Service check button on the DASH.
    For Example, my A6 3.2 l Quattro had 51170 Kilometers (35000 Miles) on it when purchased.
    First the ECU Error code read out, what has malfunctioned if anything: THEN

    I'm not do in until next year for 60,000 Kilometer Service, and that's just Oil and Filter, If it turns out to be a major then they would put new Spark plugs in, Air Filter, Interior filter for Air Circulation system, and maybe an Air conditioning Service;i,e, Recharge. The Radiator Anti-Freeze is life time, I believe, that leaves
    Window Washer Bottle, Brake Fluid Check, Wiper Blades.

    I'm Sorry, you did not ask me a question. I tend to get carried away with this stuff.
    jkAudiA6
    :shades:
  • allmet33allmet33 Posts: 3,557
    JkAuidA6,

    Yeah...I do go with ceramic pads...yes, ceramic pads can be harder on normal rotors, but that's if you're a hard driver. I've had ceramic pads on my last two cars with no problems at all. I definitely like the idea of less brake dust as opposed to using semi-metallic pads. I do utilize the transmission in manual mode at times to bring the car down from speed. There are differences between the Shiftronic/Tiptronic trannies for sure, but both have seemed bulletproof from what I can gather. The Tiptronic is a faster shifting tranny and geared more for sport-like driving as opposed to the Shiftronic which is merely geared for "spirited" driving.

    If anything...what I would be getting done is spark plug & timing belt replacement. I guess I'll add getting all the filters replaced at that time as well. I appreciate everything you put out there because it changes the scope of what I was looking at doing before based on what the Audi service advisor was telling me. The only good thing he told me was that the oil change intverval was every 10k miles.

    Mike
  • Happy Motoring:
    Did I mention early on in our first Info exchange that, in my earlier life, I worked as a service adviser?
    I'm going to keep this short.
    A. the Audi (July 2004 or later models) A6 3.2 l Quattro does not have a timing belt, it's chain driven between the Crank and Camshafts.
    b.As for Oil changes, don't use any oil other than what VW/Audi recommend.
    The current standard is 502 or higher Synthetic only. As for how often the oil is changed has two approaches.I'm paraphrasing here:
    1. Either Annual or every XX k miles, which ever comes first, or
    2. depending on your chosen guarantee at time of purchase. Go to the Audi web page USA or your operation manual on that.
    When you do get around to reading from the "CAR Bible" web page they put together a very informative section on Lubricants, and Oil change intervals.
    Bottom line is VW/Audi MAY NOT cover major component replacement if the Oil
    changes and servicing were not done in accordance with Mfg's guidelines. That includes the type of oil used.
    You must certainly know this but in case you don't here's my feed on Dealer and Independent Automotive shops:
    a. The service department is the primary source of income, especially during poor sales periods.
    b. The Service advisors, Technicians and parts guys are all on a Base salary plus
    commission bases.
    c. The choice between Dealer based service and Independent is a tough call.
    If you can find an independent that has the necessary diagnostic equipment and software/Training to service your A6 it may or may not be less expensive.
    It will certainly will void any Mfg's Warranty.
    I guess this is really the main point:
    a. In Europe the failure rate for Dealer based service departments is very high as surveyed by ADAC which is the European equivalent of AAA in the States.
    What this means for everyone driving a car is "If you are not informed about servicing your vehicle the chances are you'll pay for something you did not need.

    You know the old saying:
    Have a game plan before you jump in the game. :)
    Good luck
    JKAudiA6 :shades:
  • allmet33allmet33 Posts: 3,557
    JKAudiA6,

    Thank you again for the insight. I really don't have a problem with going to the dealer for the oil changes, $120 every 10k miles seems resonable. As far as the timing belt, the service advisor informed me that mine had a timing belt...maybe he was wrong, I'll look into it further to make sure. However, if it is a chain...that's so much better as it's one less thing to worry about.

    Mike
  • allmet33allmet33 Posts: 3,557
    JKAudiA6,

    Hey JK...just posting to let you know about the ceramic brake pads I was talking about and why I feel so comfortable with using them.

    Pro Street Online

    "Akebono ceramic brake pads will put an end to your replacement brake pad nightmare - noise, vibration, and harshness (NVH). Developed from ceramic research similar to that which led to the ceramic heat shields on the space shuttle, Akebono brake pads combine the best performance characteristics of both semi-metallic and organic pads while reducing noise, lowering dust accumulation, and providing better fit with the rotor. Since ceramic pads are O.E. on many vehicles today, including the Honda Accord and Toyota Camry, you might be shocked by a increase in NVH if you replace your O.E. ceramic pad with a metallic alternative. Other manufacturers using Akebono as OE include Nissan, Mazda, Subaru, Mitsubishi, Lexus, Infiniti, and DaimlerChrysler. Akebono invented the technology for ceramic friction materials in the 1980's. Today, Akebono Ceramic Technology (ACT) with NVH control is specified by all of the world's leading vehicle manufacturers. There are more than 250 OEM ceramic disc pad numbers for vehicles from the past 10 years.

    Akebono's ceramic brake pads provide:

    Enhanced initial effectiveness - no break-in required
    Excellent rotor compatibility
    Unsurpassed vibration dampening
    Dramatically quieter braking
    Specified as O.E. "

    I've been using ceramic pads over the last 7 years, and the Akebono product for the last 3. I've got almost 80k miles on the original rotors and there's still no need to replace them. I just put a new set of the Akebono pads on over the weekend...they are truly a good product. I will be using the same brand on the Audi when the time comes to to put new pads on there as well.

    Mike
  • Hello all. I'm a newb to forums of any sort so bear with me.

    I currently own 2 Audis that I call Jekyl and Hyde. Jekyl is a pearl white 1996 A6 FWD V6 automatic with over 200,000 miles. Physically, great shape for the miles; no rust anywhere, mild wear on the driver's seat only, body straight, no leaks even on the sunroof. I don't think the owner had anyone else in the car ever and never put anything in the trunk, you need to really pull up on it to open. Hyde is new to the family and is a 1995.5 S6 with some work done to it. It's blazingly quick for such a big car with mild performance mechanicals: Turbo 5(stock turbo) w/modified chip, quattro, 5-speed manual. Love it!! I enjoy every minute with it.

    I've been having an electrical issue with Jekyl since purchasing 3 years ago. Someone installed an aftermarket head unit and it used to draw excessive juice, so much that if I didn't start it at least every 3 days, the battery would be dead. I ripped out the hack job and installed a whole new system front to back and no more issues with the stereo. I also replaced the battery just to make sure. I noticed that when I drive, occasionally the volt meter on the dash drops from @14 to @ 12- 12.5, usually @ idle like at stop lights and the such. When I pull away, it goes back up towards 14. It happens more often at night when the headlights are on. I know cars run @ 12 volts or more, but with so much electrical equipment in such a heavy car, I feel better with 13-14 with everything running.
    The stereo is a 2 ohm system with @ 900 watts. I put a 1.0 farad capacitor to help with the juice and not tax the factory electrical system. I idled the car with the stereo on loud and the heater on full blast & max temp. No volt drop in @ 20 minutes. I turned off the stereo and heater, turned on the headlights and saw the volts drop a little, I'd say @ .5-1.0 volt. I turned the car off, let it sit over night. the next day I turned the car on and it's back up to 14 @ startup.
    Today i went to drop off my wife @ work. Drove the car for @8 miles (95% highway @ 80 mph), no problems. Pulled into a space, sat for @ 10 minutes. She left and hit reverse, moved out, put in drive and the car died. Tried to start again, nothing. I pushed in back into the space, turned off ignition and sat for a few minutes. Tried ignition, started up. Idled ok and started to leave again. All systems go for @ 3 minutes. It started to hesitate a little bit. Went back to okay. A minute later same thing only longer, like a clogged catalytic converter. Continued around a bend to the right slightly uphill. I coaxed it to the crest and off to a safe area on the side of the road where it stopped completely. I looked @ the dash and the oil pressure symbol in between the tach/speedo cluster came on. I turned it off, sat and waited, turned it back on and started up with no noises or pressure symbol. When I went to shift into drive, engine cut off. Tried this again 2-3 times & same thing. I looked in the engine bay and saw no leaks of any kind and checked the oil level and perfectly fine. Called for a flat bed and brought it home. After the sitting for a few hours, I started it and it worked fine, no warning lights, shifted into gear and moved forward and reverse (albeit 10 feet either way).

    I'm not good with a volt meter but am pretty mechanically inclined. Any and all help is greatly appreciated.
  • Greetings Chandler661!
    Electrical Gremlins for sure:
    The singular most difficult problem on any vehicle.
    1. That Jekyl even has a voltage meter is highly unusual, but OK if you say so.
    I'll get back to that in a moment.
    1st I'm not familiar with a "Head Unit" is that a Cylinder Head device or something to do with your radio/stereo?
    Variations in voltage output to the battery from the Alternator are normal dependent upon what's being used on the vehicle at any given time. Of course this is under the assumption that all other electrical equipment is functioning correctly.
    The list of electrical options is long, but if you start turning them on you increase the amount of voltage used from the battery and in turn the amount of alternator out put to produce the electrical energy used.
    By way of elimination based on what your telling me:
    a. The battery is new (12 Volt, AMPS RATING ???????)
    b. The radio/stereo is OK.
    The first place to look is the Alternator. Why ! Because Alternators have built in voltage regulators and brushes.
    The first test would be a voltage output under load test, Not just at idle. of the alternator.If it does not meet the rated output range for your model car with it's optional electrical equipment then it's one or more of three things.
    a. The Voltage Regulator portion of the Alternator has gone south.
    b. The Alternator contact brushes are worn and need to be replaced.
    c. The Drive belt for the Alternator which also drives the water pump may be to loose or worn and needs replacing and adjusting.
    d. Also take a look at the battery cables, Clean and tighten to the Plus & Minus poles. While your checking cables go back and find out what the Amp rating of your "New Battery" is, it maybe that you bought a battery which is not sufficient for your car. It should be a least the rating indicating in the Owners operation manual.

    I Always start with the cheapest things first. The regulator portion of the alternator maybe part of the contact brush assembly.
    NOW, Having said all of that the questions is ! Does that have anything to do with your " No Start/Engine dies problem" The short answer is MAYBE.

    The motor not starting/dies is one or more of several areas:
    I am going from the assumption that when your car does not start the starter motor turns the engine over.
    a. Fuel, Air, Temperature, Electrical, Vacuum hoses, and Related sensors for any one of the above.
    Having said that and based on your previous comments about "Head Unit" Power Booster of some kind, and that the car has 200,000 plus miles on it that the problem is alternator related.
    In particular the High Voltage Coils on each spark plug have a particular voltage and amp rating requirement that they can cause the spark plugs to ignite the fuel.
    If that voltage requirement is not meet the engine may not start or die if the battery
    is not being charged to a particular capacity to keep everything running.
    Note: Just an after thought but does your 96 A6 have a safety switch on the Gear Selector which precludes the car from starting when it's in a gear other than Park????
    In any case a reliable Audi dealer or third party shop that has the correct diagnostic equipment for your car is the best choice.
    I will stop here as I don't want to confuse the issue by talking about AIR, FUEL, Vacuum Hoses and related sensors.
    Good Luck Chandlier661
    JKAudiA6
  • Hey JKAudiA6, Thanx for the quick response. I was hoping I didn't write too much. I'll cut too the chase and answer some questions.
    First, just to clarify, "head unit" is another term for CD receiver because it controls everything for the stereo. The capacitor is used between the battery and the amplifier in the power chain. It's used to supply extra juice to the amp when the music needs an extra boost as not to drain the battery all the time. When you run high power (big watts), the lights will dim or blink. Using a capacitor will alleviate the problem as long as it's sufficient enough for the wattage, aka Farad size. 1 Farad per 1000 watts. I stated that because it's part of the electrical system now and is usually the first thing mechanics will question for electrical problems. I know how to wire a stereo, but factory wiring diagnostics can be confusing and daunting. I ruled that out because no matter how loud it plays, there is no draw on the meter. The meter shows a drop with or without the stereo connected.

    I do believe the car has a shifter safety switch. My wife leaves it in drive all the time and I try to start it not realizing it's still in drive and nothing. So I think that answers your question.

    The car calls for 600-650 amps and the first battery I installed was rated @ 700 amps and the 2nd is 750. I do believe they are both sufficient. I swapped them out after the one that came with the car just to rule it out.

    I contemplated changing the alternator for a while, but decided not to for 2 reasons. 1, they are ridiculously expensive. 2, I figured that the car will draw power, naturally, when stuff is on. But I also figured that if the alt was bad, it wouldn't charge the system back once the car was back under power. Every time, the meter would go back up. If the alt was bad, it would continue to draw off the battery til it was out of juice, right?? I didn't want to just start replacing stuff until ti was fixed and I'm out a couple grand.

    The dash has a series of gauges: tach, speedo, warning lights, fuel, coolant temp, clock, oil temp, and volt meter (last three above the center stack). The S6 has all the same, just a different color. I also have a volt meter on the capacitor for the stereo and for the amp. Both are digital and always read the same #s as each other and the analog meter on the dash.

    The car has one serpentine belt for everything. I replaced that in the beginning of the summer. I also replaced the timing belt and tensioners.

    Battery cables are ok. There's no corrosion, breakage, and they're bolted tight to the terminals. The thing is that it's done the same thing with three different batteries. I replaced the one that came with the car because it wouldn't take a charge anymore. I bought a new one and nothing changed. I then swapped it for the one in the S. Same thing. So I'm ruling out the battery.

    Yesterday freaked me out and I actually thought the transmission was shot. Another question: what does the oil pressure waring light have to do with anything? Is there possibly a circuit that tripped that and stopped the engine??

    Don't worry @ confusing me with anything. Actually talking about sensors might be appropriate hear seeing how sensors are electrical. Maybe the oil pressure sensor is faulty or something along that circuit.

    I appreciate your time and trying to resolve my issue. Get back to me if you have anything else. I just don't want to spend 3 bills on an alternator and still have the same problem. Hope to hear from you soon.

    Chandler
  • Hi abniz I had the same problem with my window. I had to replace the window motor to fix it. However, I have learned the trick of revving your engine to have the widow go up. Please let me know if this helps. :lemon:
  • OK Chandler:
    Well at least we can say with reasonable certainty what it is not.
    I did not mention this before but I am not an Electrical Genie. If I take a cable from it's connector I can remember where it was and put it back.

    As for the "Engine Oil Pressure light" and a related sensor, it could be wired in such a way that when the oil pressure goes below a certain level it would shut the motor down. I don't know if the S6 Audi has such a sensor/switch wired that way or not. Actually I don't think they would wire a switch in that way for a street car. Have you ever tried to steer a car with power steering when the engine suddenly dies (All but impossible). It may be located on or near the base of the Oil canister mounting bracket, Dip Stick or Oil Pan.
    It sounds to me like your in to working on your own vehicle but at some point money will have to be spent. For that reason I would strongly recommend getting reliable info from Audi. For your problem there are several ways to go with this line of thought.
    a. There is an Audi Web Page called "ERWIN.COM" for Audi USA. They have all the Documents, service INFO and Tool recommendation one needs to do self repair. The Hourly Flat rate as I recall is $21.00, you buy what you need, Manuals, diagrams, tools and research your problem in advance. How it all works is on the web page.
    b. Or ! Get an Error Code read out from the on board computers *ECU's in your car from a dealer\service facility. I have know Idea what that cost.
    c. The other option is go to the Vag COM web page state side and look in to buying
    a diagnostic software package and interface cable for your car.
    Note: Depending on your skill level this may or may not be for you.
    Should you decide this last option be advised that it's very easy to render your vehicle inoperative (Make a mistake).

    Finally !
    As for the problem:
    a. I'd do one last test on that Gear shift lever when it's in the "PARK POSITION"
    Wiggle it to see if you can recreate the problem.
    b. The sensors control several different areas of the engine operation:
    1. Air Flow(Volume), Ignition spark, timing, Air, water, coolant and Ambient temperatures. All of this data is sent to one or more "Electronic Control Units"
    (ECU) which is really a small specialized computer. In it's memory banks (Chips) are tables of control parameters for each given area, Air, fuel, temperatures, Spark and ignition. The most simple of all these are most likely the thermal type sensors
    Hot/Cold, sends an electrical implus to the ECU which interprets the data received
    looks a tablle of data and sends a message back to the control devices which provide the Air, Fuel, Ignition etc.
    Note: If this data is not being interpreted correctly then an error code is generated and stored in the ECU for Service personnel to interpret with VAGCOM software.
    The other posiblitiy is a "COLD Soldier Joint" in a Sending unit or ECU which most often is effected either by
    1. Vibration or HOT & COLD Operational Temperature or Ambient Temp's.
    Back in the 70's I had a Porsche 914 which would stop running while driving on the Freeway in Los Angeles.
    One last note which I found refreshed what knowledge I do have.
    The Web Page is called: THE CAR BIBLE Google it the author is very knowledgeable about how cars work.

    As I'm sure you understand Chandler661 and as we confirmed earlier Electrical Stuff is tough. :confuse:

    Best Regard & Be patient. :shades:
    JKAUDIA6
  • Hi Mike!
    Thanks for the TIP on Ceramic Brake pads. I'd never really considered anything else.
    Living in Germany, we have a whole different set of rules as it pertains to cars & Maintenance. But if they are approved OE perhaps I can use them here as well.
    I'll dial in on the net and see.
    Thanks Again
    JKAUDIA6 :shades:
  • My 2003 Audi A6 blows cold air even when the engine is hot. The only way that I can get any warm air in the cabin is to set both thermostats to Hi, have the defrost on front window and have the heater in econ mode. Even then it only blows moderately warm air and not enough to heat the cabin. Any ideas on what is causing this?
  • allmet33allmet33 Posts: 3,557
    JKAudiA6,

    No problem...I can tell you that I used them on my '96 Camry (never changed the rotors) and the car had about 140k miles before it was totaled. I used them on my '02 Sonata and put over 100k miles on the original rotors before having to replace them due to warpage (installed custom wheels with no torque wrench), but the thickness of the rotors was not an issue. Currently, I've been using them on my '06 Azera with almost 80k miles and the original rotors as well. With around 300k miles of experience with ceramic pads...I feel comfortable recommending them. If you're a hard driver...then I would suggest swapping out the regular rotors with cross drilled slotted rotors so that the heat will dissipate much faster and fear of warpage to to extreme heat becomes less of an issue.
  • Greetings gfixer:
    Heating problems, I had the same thing happen to me on my previous ride a BMW
    520i 1990 with 200,000 + Kilometers.
    I'm going to assume all of your heating vents are functional and you don't have any moisture under the dash on the floor area from a leaking Heater radiator or control value if it's under the dash. :blush:
    a.The first thing to check is the water/coolant level in the cooling system. If you have coolant/antifreeze use that or buy some. (Be Careful, if the engine is @ Operating temp it's HOTHOT WATER, Wear Gloves and don't stand directly over the radiator when adding coolant/water.
    b. There are two radiator hosed on your engine one for returning the water from the engine (at the Top of the radiator) after it's made it's way through the engine and heating system.
    The other hose should be at the bottom which then feeds the cooled water back in to the engine to maintain the correct operating temperature for the engine.
    What your look for are the following symptoms after the engine has been running long enough to reach what should be normal operating temp as indicated by the Water Temp gauge on the Instrument cluster.

    a. First Make sure that there are no water leaks from any of the radiator or heating hoses, the engine (around the Cylinder head gasket area) or the radiator. This includes removing the Oil filler cap and the Dip Stick to see if it has a Milky brown film on either part which would indicate moisture in the engine.
    Note: If you find Milky/coffee brown film on either of those, and the engine is running
    turn it off, wait for it to cool down then remove and mark each spark plug according to the cylinder it came from. What your looking for is an abnormal coloration of the electrode (The Ceramic tip), Go to this Web Page on the Net and Read About Spark plugs and blown head gaskets. http://www/thecarbible.com
    b. Make sure that the over flow system is in operational condition:ie, radiator cap gasket is not leaking & the pressure re-leaf value in the cap is functioning. Also that the overflow tank is sealed, and that the cooling system has sufficient water/coolant, fill to the mark on the tank. The coolant should be about 50% of the total volume of the coolant system capacity;ie, 5 gal.capacity should have 2.5 gals. of coolant.
    Coolant or Antifreeze as it's most often referred to is the stabilizer of the water temperature in the engine. It keeps the water within a predetermined operational temp.range. Look to your Operational manual for the correct capacity.
    c. The heater hoses which feed the heating system are most always smaller in size
    having an outside diameter of about 1inch. They are connected to fittings on the firewall behind the engine and run from there to the engine block and to a "Heater Control Valve" which regulates the water flow based on heater control settings on the dash.Note: The heater control valve will either be Mechanical or Electromechanical depending on whether or not you have electrically control regulators for heating on the dash (The Knobs) heating/Air conditioning system. If there are electrical wires connected to the heater control value it's electro-mechanical.
    d. Once you've determined the cooling system is sealed, no leaks anywhere, and there is sufficient water/coolant the next step is:
    While the engine is running, press the Lower Radiator hose with your hand and note two things.(CAREFUL for the FAN Blades ROTATING)
    1. Does the hose feel soft like it has little or no water in it ??????
    2. Is it COOL to the touch????????????????????? :confuse:
    Note: If one or both of these conditions exist then I would say your Water Thermostat is not functioning correctly;ie, not opening or closing allowing the water to follow based on it's predetermined temp.range. This may also mean AIR in the System which prevents the Heater in the Car from reaching normal operation temp's.
    Note: If your Thermostat is bad then have it replaced and if you have high mileage on your car and have never had the water pump replace, now is the time because it
    most always near the Thermostat.
    e. Finally ! If things improve after adding water but normal operational temps for the heating system are not totally reached then do this:
    In rapid succession turn the HEAT control knob to FULL ON and OFF several times, if you the heater starts putting out more heat after this then your control knobs are partially controlling the heater control valve. There is most likely a Printed Circuit board (PCB) on the back side of the control knob area which sends electical impulses to the Hearter control valve and they are not working correctly.
    This could be in addition to bad Thermostat and would require replacement or repair. Repair if you can find a Service which repairs PCB's, Look to the Net for
    this type of service, your dealer will always just replace the part, they don't repair parts on cars anymore.

    Well Gfixer,, I'm sorry this had to be so long but a simply question does not mean a simply answer as you can see.
    I may have forgotten something and I'm sure after you've check all these things out
    you may even have a second question ;)

    Good Luck
    JKAudiA6 :shades:
  • Thanx JKAUDIA6.
    I appreciate the help and the words of encouragement. Unfortunately it may be a few days before I can get under the hood 'cuz we just had a snowstorm and I can only work outside. I'll let you know how I make out when I can. In the mean time I'm gonna check out the online stuff you let me know about. I'm pretty patient, but this car is for my wife to drive and it seems that when the holidays come, the car decides to take a vacation. So time is usually of the essence, but I'm also annoyed 'cuz I put a bunch of $$ and time into this car and I think it's a great car and has plenty of life left in it. I plan to get the car up to snuff, but just wish it wouldn't go bad when we really need it and the cash flow is low. I'll keep you posted.

    Chandler
  • Hi Chandler,
    Ya your "Snow Storm hit the European news this morning on CNN, bad timing to say the least. No fun working on a car outside, been there, done that.
    A tip for you during the repair time. WAECO accessorizes company has a slip over Electric seat heater that plugs in to the Cigarette lighter, has a two position switch and an overload circuit built-in. That would be a perfect gift for the wife while the heaters not working and the Snow is falling, cost about 30 Euro here, that's about twenty bucks. Don't forget the Big Red Ribbon. :D I put one in the Father-in Laws car about a month ago, not for him, for my Mother-in Law. ;)

    Nothing like a bit of pressure during the Holidays.
    Hang tough, Chandler:
    Best regards to you and the family.
    Have a great Christmas.
    JKAUDIA6
  • abnizabniz Posts: 2
    Hi Alexyaz,

    I got it fixed with out spending a dime on it. It was just lubricant to be sprayed on the rubber itself and everything is done! :-)
  • Thanks JKAudiA6. I am fairly sure that the coolant system has no leak but I will follow your directions and check it to make sure. The engine temperature gauge in the dash reaches operating temperature and stay in the normal range in the middle section which it has always done. This A6 has dual digital heater controls for driver and passenger. These are operated by + or - and you can set the desired temperature to what either person wants on a small LCD pannel next to them. I beleive that the problem is in the electronic control system where the signal for heater control valve is sent. I assume that the passenger and driver side controls have their own thermostats to set the desired temperature. Do you know where these thermostats are located? is it possible for these to go bad? Although since there are two of them in this car, I doubt that they both went bad together so I think your suggestion of bad signal to heater control vave is a good one and I will follow up on that later today.

    thanks,
    Qfixer
  • Wow thats great. mine just fixed itself. I haven't drove the car for a month and when I went back the windows worked. :)
  • Morning Qfixer:
    Sorry, I don't know where the Heater control values are, hopefully within reach.
    Also check the Fuse listing in your manual if you have one, see if those heater controls are fused, that would be a really easy fix.
    Your heater controls are those on my 2005 model, it could be that they are the same
    and have not changed since 2003, but don't know.
    JKAUDIA6 :shades:
  • Greetings ALEXYAZ:
    Been following your post for a few days.
    Windows are a pain especially when it's raining.
    I use Silicon Spray which has a very light sewing machine type oil
    in it for all rubber seals on my car. In my area it's cheaper than Rubber
    treatments and last longer, in addition to making the seals black.
    TIP: Don't get it on the windows it smears.
    I also check different departments when looking for common items like window spray
    silicon spray....... Sometimes you'll find that those items in the Automotive department have higher prices. Window spray or silicon spray by any other name is still just that a spray.
    Enjoy
    JKAUDIA6 :shades:
  • Hey all... I'm considering purchasing a 1996 Audi A4 2.8 - any tips on what to ask or look for? The car is being sold through a second hand dealer, not an Audi dealer. I'm going to check it out today, online it looks clean. I've never owned an Audi, and am getting a lot of mixed reviews about them. I understand the maintenance is relatively expensive, but if I can get a reliable comfortable car I am ok with that. I just wrecked my car and had too much negative equity to carry over into another loan, so I'm opting to pay cash for something older until I can pay off the negative equity on my loan. Any tips would be extremely appreciated.. Also here is the link to the car should anyone want to take a peek... Thanks

    http://autos.yahoo.com/used-cars/audi-a4-cars333137028;_ylt=Anh6BwKCBp5A
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,566
    I certainly wouldn't buy it without having an Audi specialist check it out top to bottom. Repairs are very expensive on this car, should something serious go wrong.

    Nice driving cars, could use more power. Specific issues include automatic transmission and HVAC controls.

    MODERATOR

  • I called the local Audi dealer, was told they can do all visual expections, but couldn't run diagnostics without a potential problem? I didn't really understand that, but ok. So, I was definitely planning on taking it to have it inspected.

    I'm definitely cautious and aware because of the costly repairs, and it seems its a hit or miss on reliability of the individual car.

    So far, I've got things to consider and have at least visually inspected as being the timing belt, water pump, battery, and electrical parts.

    This also seems to be a very standard car with little if any upgrades.
  • I loved my 2003 Audi A6 - except for the cost of repair. $235.00 for a tire? $700.00 for the driver's side sun visor? I sold it after 4 years. You asked what to look for: A Ford or Chevy.
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