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Audi A6 Maintenance and Repair

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  • Hi I have a 2010 audi a6 and im trying to take off the rear driverside door handle an someone help? I cant figure out how to remove rear door handle.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,708
    inside or outside handle?

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  • Hi All: 2003 A6 Quattro wagon, 92,000 miles. Tried to start it a few days ago during frigid Minnesota weather. Cranked very slowly, so checked battery compartment. Positive terminal badly corroded, so just figured that was the problem. I cleaned the terminal thoroughly, but when I tried to start it, it made no difference. Car cranked slowly, then died completely. OK, time for a jump, then go buy a new battery. Hooked it up to my other vehicle...STILL wouldn't crank....what the...? What was completely baffling was that even with the jumper cables connected to the A6 battery, there was NO juice to ANYTHING in the car...no headlights, no interior lights, no power locks or windows. Made no sense, but since the battery was old, I figured I would throw a new one in anyway. Still nothing! So no power is getting from the new battery into the car. Does anyone know if there is a fusible link or some sort of master fuse in this year A6? When I say there's no power, I mean NO power, to anything. Would appreciate any suggestions. Thanks to all! Frogman
  • Minnesota Trouble Shooting!
    I did not see any mention of Engine type, other than (3.0) in your post but it's secondary to your problem unless you have a Diesel Engine.
    Unless you have a diagnostic device capable of reading "Diagnostic trouble Codes" you will need to have the car towed to an Audi Service Center or reputable Shop who's very good with Audi trouble shooting, the later having the necessary diagnostic devices.
    In short the Electrical Management of all electrical devices (ECU's) controlled by small computers located in several locations in the vehicle. These devices (ECU's) control and manage all electrical devices. On a self help level you could check related Fuses to systems which would allow the vehicle to start;ie, Fuel Pump, Temperature Sensors, Power to Spark plugs etc........... But if it's as cold as I think it is where you are I'd think twice.
    Here is an address/Link: With Error Codes for Audi:
    http://www.bentleypublishers.com/tech/audi/audi.dtc.table.htm
    If your a self helper;IE, DIY type you would be best served using
    ERWIN.Com for the US. They have an hourly rate for service INFO and Doc's.
    Hope this helps.
    Best Regards
    jkAudiA6
  • audiluvbluesaudiluvblues Posts: 10
    edited December 2013
    Hi, I have a 2005 Audi A6 and I'm not getting any sound from the radio and CD player. The voice for navigation and blue tooth work.
    I've tried unplugging the amp and I still have the same problem.
    Can anyone help me with this issue...
    Please

    Does anyone know of a good Audi mechanic in North Jersey?
  • chidemchidem Posts: 1
    edited December 2013
    I have a 2013 Audi A6 2.0T. Every time I apply the brakes and my speed reduces to under 15 mph, the brakes squeal. It sounds like it comes from the front of the vehicle. When I stop using the brakes, the noise goes away. When I apply the brakes again to stop the vehicle, the noise is back.

    It is very loud.

    I've taken the car in to my dealership and I was told there were no issues. The brake pads were fine. The dealership gave me a bunch of mumbo jumbo about brake dust and metallic brakes. It sounded like a bunch of crap. Are there other people having problems? What should I do?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,708
    Not much you can do except change the pads to something softer. The dealer could have at least put some goop on the back of the pads to quiet them down a bit.

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  • Not sure if already covered before. I have 2006 A6 3.1V6 with 146k mi. Always carefully serviced. HVAC has started blowing heat full blast even w/temp set down to 66. I had to put it to Low and let it cool off. we were on a long winter drive. bit of a pain. Head unit/controls or actuator motor? seems to be able to direct air to proper vents. such can't regulate temp between off and burning hot.

  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,708

    Okay--on this system, there SHOULD be a fault code to help us identify the problem.

    @carcrazy37 said: Not sure if already covered before. I have 2006 A6 3.1V6 with 146k mi. Always carefully serviced. HVAC has started blowing heat full blast even w/temp set down to 66. I had to put it to Low and let it cool off. we were on a long winter drive. bit of a pain. Head unit/controls or actuator motor? seems to be able to direct air to proper vents. such can't regulate temp between off and burning hot.

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  • nxnw1nxnw1 Posts: 3

    My 2007 A6 with 60k miles (bought certified, pre-owned 4 years ago with 28k miles and performed all services at dealership) just suffered a catastrophic engine failure. Check engine light came on, stopped at exit, wouldn't start again, towed to dealer, declared dead. $17,500 to replace the engine. Anyone with similar experience? Audi offer to split the repair bill. At first glance, this seems generous for out-of-warranty car. But, I don't feel ANY culpability here - I purchased a certified, pre-owned vehicle, maintained it faithfully at their dealership and had no warnings to which I could respond to mitigate damages. Any thoughts/experiences would be appreciated?

  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,708
    edited May 23

    What was the diagnosis? Sludge? Not sure why you would need an entire engine unless it seized up or blew up on you while you were driving. Also, those are Porsche engine prices you're being quoted, so 1/2 of an inflated price = zero.

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  • I would appreciate opinions on 2006 Audi Avant 3.2 quattro with 170,000 miles
    Last oil change mechanic (not dealership) quoted price for front control arm replacement both sides $3000. Not really having any steering or suspension problems. I understand that bushings may be worn, but not that interested in spending that much. Reviewed Youtube video for DIY replacement but probably more than I will tackle. Really using car for short commutes of less than 3 miles. Everything else aside, the car still running well. Questions:
    1. Cheaper options? Mechanic says the steel bolt usually freezes in aluminum and usually have to replace whole control arm
    2. Anybody DIY and difficulty. Don't have lift just garage jacks.
    3. What is a real mechanical potential failure?
    Thanks for any thoughts
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,708
    Well what symptoms are being noticed to justify this repair? Oddly worn tires? Does the control arm actually shift noticeably (i.e. can you see the tire move forward or back) during slow speed braking? Will the car not align properly? Is there a safety issue?

    $3K is half the value of the car, so there should be a very compelling reason to do this work.

    I did the control arms on my MINI because you could actually see the wheel moving when I braked and you could use a pry bar to shift the control arm. In other words, the necessity for the repair was easily demonstrated to me by the shop.



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  • saseng09saseng09 MNPosts: 3
    Does anyone know how much a 75K mile maintenance would be for a 2004 a6 2.7T s-line??
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,708
    edited November 6
    Okay, are you sitting down?

    If you haven't had a timing belt done, that's about $1800. The rest of the service, which is a fairly large one at 75K will be about $750. Add to that sales tax. These are prices for California, so if you are in a more rural area of the country, you will probably pay somewhat less for labor costs per hour---but it's still going to be a large bill.

    Source: Hi-Tec Automotive of San Rafael, CA--independent repair facility and Audi specialists.

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  • saseng09saseng09 MNPosts: 3
    Thanks mr_shiftright! looks like i will have to drop out of school next semester to pay for that! haha :'(
  • steverstever Viva Las CrucesPosts: 41,633
    edited November 6
    That's odd - on here it looks like the 75k service is just a tire rotation (~$20). The 80k service is a bigger one - the Edmunds Car Maintenance Guide estimates that should cost you around $360. And we say the timing belt is good until 120k.

    Looks like we have a disconnect somewhere.

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  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,708
    edited November 6
    Audi has updated their maintenance schedule for the A6 2.7 to 75,000 miles. That's official, 100% certain.

    Given the consequences, an owner would be unwise to adhere to the 120K recommendation. Edmunds should change that. Can't blame 'em---they didn't get the memo I guess.

    And of course, if you're doing the timing belt, you should do the big service then, whether it's 75K or 80K.

    Gotta stay on top of your game with Audis. :)

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  • kyfdxkyfdx Posts: 30,584
    Geez... no wonder you can buy these for $8K-$10K all day long...

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  • steverstever Viva Las CrucesPosts: 41,633
    No kidding.

    Found a link to the "official" Audi maintenance schedule - it's kind of like reading a bus schedule at first. (pdf file).

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  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,708
    edited November 7
    Ah, so you read the fine print, eh? Yep, 75K miles for the timing belt. The "book" says 6 hours and I say OH YEAH? Prove it. More like 8.

    Here's website that breaks the costs down. They pretty much agree with me---parts and labor and tax and all---around $1900. It depends where you live? Manhattan or L.A.? Maybe $200/hour labor at the dealer.

    Parts & Labor Audi A6 Timing Belt 2.7 Turbo engine

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  • steverstever Viva Las CrucesPosts: 41,633
    Looks like @saseng09 is in MN from her profile. So you can knock $10 an hour off the labor charge. Maybe. :-)

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  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,708
    She may get the whole thing done cheaper---I hope so---in any event, a 2.7 A6 is a fairly maintenance intensive vehicle, albeit a nice one.

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