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Audi A6 Maintenance and Repair



  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,408
    This is often referred to as "pinch shock" and is probably due to impact damage. Sometimes, or so I've been told, it can also be caused by a shifting belt in the tire.

    I would contact Continental about this problem. I don't think it is terribly dangerous but one never knows. You might get some kind of pro-rated settlement out of the deal if you handle it right. The dealer will probably just blow you off and refer you to the tire manufacturer, although a competent dealer will at least help you in the process. You might also check to see if your insurance covers this as some kind of road hazard incident. However, generally it is not such a great idea to make a claim under $1,500 or so.


  • bigjer2bigjer2 Posts: 4
    Hi ,
    My Audi , 2006 A6 3.2 Quattro is going off lease this December. (under 30,000 miles) I absolutely LOVE this car and have had ZERO problems with it. The issue at hand is ; Would it be a wise choice to buy this vehicle for the residual of around $24,000? It will have a full year left on the Audi (all-inclusive) Warranty. I have mixed feelings because of some horror stories I read here about high maintenance and repair costs. I was considering a extended warranty for 5 yrs and 85,000 miles (bumper to bumper) but they run around $3000+.

    Can anyone enlighten me ?
  • zorozoro Posts: 5
    Well I have a 2005 A6 that purchased off lease and I am happy with the decision. Make sure you work through your dealer to get the free maintenance extended and get the overall warranty extended. It will add a few grand to the purchase price but it mitigates the risk of a major repair expense down the road. Supposedly the extended maintenance agreement through audi leasing is different than what the dealer can offer so make sure you speak to your dealer. Also, check the market price versus the residual price. the market is softer and you may have an opportunity to get a better price.
  • loggieloggie Posts: 31
    try to negotiate the buyout price in december.

    audi just lowered the msrp on all remaining 2008 A6's by $5000 because of the just announced "slightly" redesigned A6 for 2009. check out the current pricing for 2006 A6 CPO vehicles for sale today that are similarly configured with low mileage, then check the price again in december, it can only go down.
  • I just brought my "dream" car a month ago with 81,000 miles. About two weeks it suddenly shut down while I was in a parking deck, thank God. The MIL and ESP lights came on and the car sputtered/died/revved up on its own while in traffic for the next 30 minutes. Suddenly the lights went off and the car functioned beautifully. Two weeks later, the same problem. My local Audi dealer couldn't find the problem, but PepBoys and a local Audi specialist found the mass airflow sensor and camshaft position sensor faulty.

    I've seen where others have had the same problem. Does ANYONE know what it could possibly be before I sink money into it? Thanks.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,408
    Well if an Audi specialist found those trouble codes, what's the issue with proceeding to correct the problem? Do you not trust the diagnosis?


  • My A6 has been sitting in my yard unused for 2 years. I started it yesterday, it runs OK but a little rough. I can't get the gears shift to get out of park. I pressed on the brake and still can't get it out of park. It feels locked and there is no give to the lever.
    I wonder if there is an override someplace because the battery was dead for so long and the new battery may have kicked in some protector????
    All the dealers or repair shops answer the same way. """" Bring the car in"""""".
    Any ideas before the repairshop gets it?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,408
    Brake safety switch under the pedal . See if you have brake lights. If not, that's it for sure. ( or the fuse that governs it).


  • Thanks for the response. I have brake lights. I looked under the brake pedal and couldn't find any switches along the pedal. Where should I look???? Is there a fuse specific to the park lever?? If so whiuch one would it be?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,408
    Okay, Plan B :P

    Might be the Shift Lock Solenoid. I don't know if you want to tackle this without a book. the solenoid looks in a photo like a small white thing under the shifter/console when you remove it.

    You might consult your owner's manual for the location of a small hole to temporarily insert a screwdriver or key to release the shift lever. Most cars have this somewhere.

    5 Speed Automatic 01V

    Shift Lock Solenoid Switch, removing and installing


    * Remove shift mechanism.
    * Remove stop buffer from cable lever.
    * Shift to Tiptronic position and remove frame.
    * Move selector lever to "2".
    * Disengage lever for lock cable by lifting it from its mounting and remove from mounting bracket.
    * Press out bolt for locking pawl using drift.
    * Remove shift lock solenoid switch together with locking pawl upward.


    * Move selector lever to "2".
    * Install shift lock solenoid switch together with locking pawl from above into mounting bracket.
    * Carefully drive in bolt for locking pawl.
    * Check engagement of locking pawl in "P" and "N" of selector lever using a screwdriver.
    * Insert locking pawl into mounting bracket and lock it by feel in both mountings.
    * Check locking function of locking pawl: Locking pawl must engage in shift lever position "P" and must lock the selector lever.
    * Install frame on mounting bracket (ribbed side must face up) and install stop buffer in cable lever.
    * Install shift mechanism.


  • Thanks again. On to Plan B....... I'll let you know how it goes.
  • hi i recently purches an 2002 Audi A6 with 86000 miles. it runs great, today i was driving and were it indicates the mpgs you are getting a 2:00h stared flashing. I turn off the car and turn it back on and it still there, any idea what it means???????????? thank you
  • There are buttons on the bottom and end of the right control arm that change the display and turn it on and off. When the car is running you can "toggle" through the options - elapsed trip time, miles per gallon, etc. I don't take long trips very often but when I do the 2:00h will pop up after I've been driving for two hours - even if I have the display set for miles per gallon.

    BTW - I have a 2001 2.7T w/6-speed. 102,000 miles so far (bought new). The adjustment for the lumbar support doesn't adjust. Otherwise no problems.
  • thank you kirby2010 that makes alot of sense I appreciate your answer. I have another problem, my control panel indicates that the right rear door is open but it is close, i open the door and close it but it still indicates that it is opened, when im driving the interior lights flash and the rear door appear in the panel. Im wondering where the door sensor is at, and if it is expensive to fix . THANK YOU
  • My wife's A6 didn't make it home from the gym the other day. Turn the key, absolutely nothing. We live in Northern Minnesota where there are not a lot of import dealers or mechanics, but my regular mechanic determined that the part in the steering column that tells the ignition that the car is in gear is broken. Part of it even fell out when he took the steering column apart. I just need to know what this part is called, where I can find it, how much it costs, and how difficult it would be for me or my mechanic to replace. Thanks.
  • HI everyone,

    I have a 1999 Audi A6 and the power windows and sunroof don't work.Is that function is controlled by the main window switch?And is there another fuse for the lights because I tried replacing a fuse and they still didn't work.

  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,408
    I think you're going to need the repair manual to figure this out. Basically the key operates a little cam that works a key lock solenoid that sends a signal to the gear shifter. Cars have different systems but it sounds like your Audi has a mechanical/electrical function in the steering column.

    I'm sure the Audi dealer's parts counter has a diagram of all the parts on microfiche or on CD, which they might even print out for you since you're going to have to buy the parts from them anyway.

    Obviously something came loose in the steering column--either the lock, the cam, or the lock solenoid.


  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    1. Not really. After the initial warranty, you pretty much foot the bill. BMW's CPO program and 100k warranty is IMO much stronger (previously own 2002 325xi and 2005 645ci).

    2. It can. You using the button to start or the key? button start seems a bit flaky on ours.

    3. I'd probably change oil yourself, just for peace of mind. I use Mobil 1 or Castrol (both meet VW/Audi specs - just verify the label). Can't recall if it is 5w30 or 0w40 that I used.

    4. You don't have to remove the underside if you hvae the right tools. Filter is on TOP of the engine under that black cover just behind the grey header cover. I'm NOT talking about the black cover that houses the filter/brake reservoir, etc. If you have a fluid extractor, you can suck it out that way via the dipstick. I do that while the A6 is on wheel ramps and it forces oil to the back of the pan. Once I get all I can, I THEN remove the underside cover (silver button screws turn 90 degrees and come right out - easy), open the drain plug and get the remaining fluid. Be careful getting the oil filter out from the top (need 36mm socket IIRC). If you're not careful, you'll get oil all over the engine as you tip it. Plastic baggies are a HUGE help here.

    Hope that answers your questions.

    I can say after owning this A6 that we will NOT buy another. Even spark plugs (from the dealer) are 19.00 each. I got some NGK's for our A6 online for 8.00 each, which is still high, but a LOT easier to stomach. I'm putting on new pads tomorrow, but they're not dealer. They are aftermarket EBC pads (Redstuff) and they're ceramic.

    I'd recommend a Bentley manual if you plan on doing more maintenance yourself. Knowing how to take the stuff apart will be 95% of your problem. If you figure out how to get to the cabin filter, let me know! :)

  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    If you are buying off lease, get the maintenance contract and/or extended warranty. AND make sure you know what is covered. Things like spark plugs run 20.00 each from the dealer and 130+ for front pads. Maintenance will add up QUICK if you're not careful. Some maint. warranties cover wear/tear like brakes and wipers. Some don't.

  • I have the same exact problem in my 99 A6.
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