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Audi A6 Maintenance and Repair



  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,422
    That was your park pawl protesting, but if you didn't break it off (in other words, if it still locks into park) then you got away with it THIS TIME :shades:


  • I have owned the same car and it is really a terrible vehicle to own and operate w/o a warranty. These cars are among the most complicated to repair of all vehicles and the shops that understand this car are few and far between. Parts are prohibitively expensive, unbelievably proprietary, and hard to order outside the retail dealer network.

    After almost 9 years of Audi ownership experience, you really don't want to drive one w/o warranty coverage. These are cars which should be leased for 3 years and just simply given back to the dealer. Buying a 2.7T straight up was a financial mistake in my opinion. You should have a 30 day warranty if purchased from a dealer, maybe they will make some allowance for the turbo replacement?

    Watch your fluid your fluid your fluid levels! I checked the coolant, oil, brake fluid, power steering, windshield washer fluids almost on a daily basis. Letting the coolant run low for any reason is death to the turbos. Again, if purchased within 30 days from a dealer, I believe they have some responsibility towards the repair of this incredibly hard to repair vehicle.
  • Diggs - That doesn't sound good. I'm not an expert but it sounds a lot like the problem I had earlier this year. My low coolant light kept coming on but there was no sign of leakage. In my case it WAS NOT the turbos. I had to have an auxiliary coolant pump replaced. This pump continues to pump coolant on hot days after the engine is turned off. It was the end of summer and I was in for the 105K service. Since the service manager couldn't reach me by phone they didn't do the repair and I had to take it back. I don't drive it every day so it wasn't a problem. NOT suggesting you should drive it. Cost of repair was about $600 or $800 parts and labor. I have a 2001 2.7T w/6-speed. Always serviced at the Audi dealer where I bought it. It will be eight years old in March. Love this car. Good luck.
  • I am very confused and I hope that someone out there has some good advice for me. Here is my issue....I brought my 2002 Audi A6 to the dealer several weeks ago b/c my engine light was on. They said I had two problems. (1) A coolant sensor had to be problem and (2) I needed a new torque could be done for $2000. GULP!!!!

    I initially declined to have the torque converted replaced b/c other than the engine light being on, the car runs perfectly. I brought the car to another location and they too said that the codes being produced by the computer stated I also needed a new torque converter. Soon after I brought the car to the second dealer, the engine light went off. Since then (about 3 - 4 weeks), the light hasn't come back on and the car still runs perfectly. Absolutely no problems.

    The dealer told me that the car may run for the next 50k miles w/o a problem or I could blow my entire transmission as soon as I pull off the lot...and that would cost $5k to fix.

    Well, I finally made an appt to have it fixed. This is a painful fix as my engine light is off and the car runs perfectly. Also, the car is only worth 10 - 11k. I'm assuming both dealers wouldn't lie to me and that the computer tells them there is a problem.

    Any idea what I should do? And, if I truly had a problem, wouldn't my car say so? Shouldn't I be noticing at least some problem with the car?

    HELP...before I spend $2000 to fix nothing
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,422
    Can you tell us what the code # was?

    If it was DTC 17125/P0741, then that's a failure of the torque converter internal oil seal and yeah, that's bad news.


  • nailed it: P0741! (My service order says Fault in Torque Converter Clutch Circuit: P0741). Bad news, huh?

    I have been on a few other boards and the feedback ranges from do nothing to get it fixed tomorrow....sigh. I talked to a someone who I think is very least he seems to be....and he said that since my engine light hasn't been on for weeks and the car is running perfectly, that I shouldn't worry about it until I notice any wrong with the car. In short, the car just isn't going to drop the transmission tomorrow...I will notice it over time.

    I just don't know what to is hard to fix something that isn't showing signs of being broken.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,422
    Is this a 2.7 turbo?

    I just spoke with my Audi experts and they said:

    "If it's a 2.7 Turbo with that fault code, start saving for a torque converter. If it's not, then clear the codes and sit tight. As long as it isn't slipping or failing to go into gear properly, it might just be a "ghost" message that won't come back. It could go either way here"

    so there you go.


  • Thank you for the quick reply. is not a 2.7T. It is a 3.0 (2002 A6). I appreciate the advice and I will sit tight. That seems to be the consensus of the Audi experts that don't stand to make a quick $2k off me!!!


  • Hi Diggs

    I must agree with some of the other posters, that the first machanic does not appear to know what he is talking about. I would strongly suggest taking the car to an Audi dealership to diagnose the problem, if you cannot find an independent shop that specialises in Audis.

    As for the turbos... if the turbos were bad you would have experienced one or more of the following... chirping sounds during hard acceleration (when the turbos are at full boost and speed), white or blue exhaust smoke - and lots of it. If you are not having any of these issues your turbos are fine. Someone mentioned sluggish-ness, which might not always mean the turbos are bad, but be an indicator of boost leaks, i.e. leaks in the turbo charge system.

    On a side note... Keep in mind is that replacing the turbos on these cars will be a very expensive repair. It's an Audi so parts are twice as expensive right off the bat. In order to replace the turbos the engine has to be pulled out of the car. There are two ways this is usually done, either from the front or by dropping it out the bottom. Either way, the mechanic needs to know his stuff and labour will be expensive. (my car was in the shop for 5 days - Audi dealership). You can buy a new set of stock turbos for around $1000-$1500, so if you can find someone to do the work it will probably cost around $5000.

    As someone else mentioned here... ALWAYS keep and eye on your fluids. Turbos that are starving for oil (lubricates and cools) will die quickly. Do your oil changes regularly. ALWAYS use synthetic oil. NEVER drive the car hard and simply stop and turn off the engine - if you drove it hard and the oil tempreture is higher than normal, let the car idle for a few minutes so the temp goes down, or make sure you drive it nice and easy for the last couple of miles before you get to your destination.

    Here are a two links that might be helpful to you and some other posters regarding the Audi S4. The S4 has the exact same engine as the A6 so much of the preventative maintenance stuff applies to the A6. pdf

    There are several shop listed at the bottom of this site, by state, so hopefully some of these are close to you...

    It is unfortunate that these awesome cars get such a bad rap, but all they need is a little more attention and care than naturally aspirated models, and they are very reliable. Certainly fun to drive!

    I hope that helps.

  • Your post is right on except the last part. I have owned Audis (100 & A62.7T) for almost 9 years and especially here in snowy, cold Minnesota, the twin turbo just isn't made for our weather. Too many sensors combined with twin turbo issues does not make a reliable vehicle.

    Wouldn't spend $2000.00 to get your A6 fixed, try to get another car. It is just one thing after another with these cars.

    Do agree about the fun to drive part and the Audi interiors are the best in the business. Just make sure you lease and return, never own and go bankrupt over repairs!
  • Hello fellow Audi Owners,
    I live in Seattle, WA have a 2001 A6 2.8 with 60k miles on it and is currently experiencing catastrophic engine failure - or at least that's how it being described by my mechanic. About 2 weeks ago I was driving and my low coolant engine light flicked on along with that lovely triple beep alerting me to problem. I had only been driving for about 15 minutes that day so the engine hadn’t even heated up thoroughly. I was quick to pull over at Shucks Auto Supply store and popped the hood and visually confirmed that the coolant reservoir was completely empty. I bought premium priced coolant (just like the gas I pump into my beloved Audi) and filled up the reservoir. Bent down to check under the car to see if there was an immediate coolant leaking, which there wasn’t. I shut the hood, started up and drove down the road. The warning and beeping went away and thought that was strange to have a bone-dry reservoir but was content for the moment. Less than 3 miles down the road the coolant light and the triple beeping started again. My heart skipped a beat and proceeded to pullover and check again. I was shocked to see that the reservoir was yet again completely empty. Obviously the coolant was going somewhere and since I didn’t see it leaking from under the car – I thought that it must cycling through the engine somehow. I immediately drove to my mechanic, which luckily was only 5 miles away. He filled the coolant reservoir with water and cranked the engine while placed on the lift. It didn’t take too long to find the steady drip. He thought that it might be a hose and said he couldn’t work on the car right now but would check it more thoroughly the next day. No problem – I live walking distance from his garage. I purchased the car a year ago, and have put less than 6K miles on it. I walk my children to school and I walk to work. I basically drive the car on the weekends to go to church and to go shopping. I wanted a nice car for my family that was safe, practical, and not too flashy. I don’t drag race my Audi. The next day I got the dreaded phone call from my mechanic stating that it would be $150 just for the labor to find the source of the leak. I was like no problem; call me when you find the root of the problem. Almost 4 hours later my mechanic he said that I needed to come to the shop, he couldn’t explain the problem over the phone. I went to the shop and he inserted a video probe into the back of the engine block. What I saw on the video monitor was a steady spray but not a specific location from where. The mechanic said he believed that the engine was cracked and wouldn’t know the extent of the damage until he got $500 to completely remove the engine; which I reluctantly paid since I had to tap my savings account. 2 days later the mechanic called and I got to see the engine completely pulled out. The mechanic explained that there were actually 2 hairline cracks that weren’t visible until he heated the cracks with a torch. My question for anyone that read this long entry, would it make sense to find a welder to weld the cracks? Anyone every heard of an engine block cracking for no reason? Any ideas how the engine might crack in the first place? Is the only solution to replace the engine? Anybody know any decent places to purchases a worthy engine? Thanks in advance for your input. I am going to go to the bathroom and cry in private. – Vince
  • Hi

    Glad i found this site! My 2005 A6 was towed away on Saturday because it wouldn't start. Been having a load of trouble with the electonics. We've been told it's because a previous owner spilled a drink into the central console (sound familiar??) :mad:
    The tow truck driver called us Sat. evening because he was concerned about how DFW Audi were dealing with my car when he dropped it off..doesn't sound good...I'm about to call them and see what they have to the car but the problems with the electrics make it a real nightmare...wish me luck !
  • Just been told by my dealer that there are many complaints regarding the trunk latches and that these are in short supply.....if you're having problems suggest you get on to your dealer and make sure they can get you one.
  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    I spilled a coke in our MMI console and it didn't cause it to go 'out' but the buttons became problematic.

  • Hey Fonefixer

    I disagree with your weather statement, as these cars were built in a country that gets pretty cold, so I have a feeling this would have been an issue there before… I will agree that the weather in the north is harder on any car. That said, after my issues were resolved (new turbos, EGT sensors & cam seals) I've had no trouble with my 2.7T and it’s not stock either. My issues were definitely caused by the previous owner's lack of maintenance, and I thank my lucky stars for the CPO warrantee. I believe MN get's way worse weather than here in New England, so I might be totally wrong.

    Certain Audis seem to get a bad rap as far as reliability is concerned, but I think these models require more care on the part of the owner, and a lack thereof is probably the primary reason for things going wrong later on. No disrespect intended, but when I bought my 2.7T I did my homework and I knew that this car would require extra attention. I think that many owners are never told and don’t know this and as a result find out when it’s too late. I’ve read many forum posts of people that bought these cars without knowing anything about the technology behind them. Then when things start going wrong they want to compare their 2.7T to their other V6 Honda or V8 Explorer, which you simply cannot do. Apples and oranges... IMHO, if a turbo powered car is well maintained it will be very reliable, but there are more points of failure in a forced induction power train so it will probably never be as reliable as a naturally aspirated counterpart, but I think the difference will be small.

    I hear you though, as far maintenance costs on these cars... I am fortunate enough to be able to do most of the maintenance myself which definitely helps, but even buying the parts can get expensive. That said, if you have to get the car fixed and you have to rely on a dealership to do it, it gets crazy expensive very quickly!

    Most of the car manufacturers are now offering AWD systems and turbo charged motors on some of their models. Specially in the last few years, everyone seemed to have jumped on the “performance band wagon”. I think the “new guys” in the “performance segment” will see similar reliability issues with higher performance models, and unless they educate their vehicle owners, a vehicle’s unreliability might not be an indication of an inferior product, but rather an uninformed consumer.

    Then again… I’m just a computer geek that loves to tinker with his car, so I really don’t know what I’m talking about anyway! LOL So take everything I said with a “pinch of salt”… ;)

  • I had the same problem happen to my 2005 A6.The dealer says it was the battery (200 for the battery 200 for programming).Needless to say the car is still at the dealer almost two months later.

    Has anyone else had any problems with Paul Miller Audi in Parsippany NJ?
  • patpat Posts: 10,421
    You might want to look up that dealership here: Dealer Ratings & Reviews. You can submit your own report as well.
  • This has been a bad month. 2002 A6 with only 76,000 is three months out of extended warranty. First the power steering pump went out ($1000) and now the dealer is telling me I need a new transmission. Dealer proposes installing a used (60,000 mi) one for $2,600. Is this car a lemon? Should I fight the expired warranty? Any suggestion re: course of action. Or should I just pay up and hope this is it for another 50,000. I've driven this like a little old lady from has been treated with TLC. Thanx.
  • NnewiNnewi Posts: 3
    I have a 1999 Audi A6 salon car. The sunroof and windows don't operate any longer. The alram does not work. Has anyone had this problem and if so what can I do to fix it?
  • NnewiNnewi Posts: 3
    I have change my bonnet cable 2 times in the last one month, and it got cut again, any solution? power windows do not work and the power option that control the central lock do not work. Any help in this matter.
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