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Audi A6 Maintenance and Repair



  • 1.) oil frequently?
    2.) transmission oil change....ever done?
    3.) obvious leaks
    4.) belts
    5.) all 6 fluid levels...oil,trans, coolant, power steering, windshield wash, battery
    6.) brakes..brake rotors
    7.) exhaust components
    8.) tires...matching ..wear on one side?
    9.) spare tire..proper size..ever used?
    10.) loose steering...front end components
    11.) accident damage...matching paint from doors to body
    12.) check all functions..brake, headlights, turnsignal, wipers, heater, air cond.
  • Thanks JKAUDIA6
    I will definitely look into that.
  • I have audi A6 2002. 2 years ago there was an engine problem and I did repair it at the dealer splitting 6000 cost with Audi America. 42 months later Ignition coil light came and I got that repaired for 1800. Problem with Ignition coil surfaced again this time the dealer said it is the gasket and I ended up replacing the Gasket and all cylinders for 3800.
    Last week white smoke came out of the exaust and problem was traced to coolant leak and now they tell me the engine which was repaired two years ago has a crack and need replacement
    Called Audi USA. They brushed me off by say thay they will give me 2000 credit towards new car.
    Any one heard of a spontaneous crack in A6 engine .
    I have only 65000 miles on the car.
  • YES! I have an Audi 2002 A6 2.8L, engine ATQ. I was driving and and the coolant light came on, I checked the coolant and it was infact empty, so I immediately replaced the coolant and continued to drive another 2 miles. The light came on again, I checked the coolant and it was again empty. I took the car to my mechanic less than 5 miles away. He didn't have time to look at car, so I left it over night. The next morning he presserized the coolant system and spotted a spraying leak, deep in the engine block but couldn't get a good look unless he pulled the engine. I paid the $700 to have the engine pulled. He found 2 cracks in the engine block. He recommended a used engine and to reinstall. About $5000. I refused to pay and called the bank. The banks insurance covered the work under my catastrophic insurance policy that I was paying on embedded in the loan. I was without a car for 6 months. I had 57000 miles on the car when all of that happened last summer. I only drive my car on the weekends with my family. My kids walk to school, and I walk to work everyday. I just wanted a nice car for weekend travel. I loved my Audi, it's been my dream car since I was a kid. 5 days before XMAS, I had to install an entire replacement on the front-end suspension system. The automatic windows quit working, the interior lights needed work, the coolant system needed to have a new cap replaced. Nice little $2000 XMAS gift. Frankly, I am scared to drive my car long distances. My catalytic converters have failed. I will need to get those replaced. Audi of North America were jerks the entire time. I don't know what to do. Like I said, its said because I really love my Audi. I take really good care of it, and clean and wash it religiously.
  • allmet33allmet33 Posts: 3,557
    I've got an '04 A6 Quattro...has anyone had an issue with the ABS & ESP light coming on while the car is moving? Usually, once I stop and cut the car off and turn it back on...the lights don't come on again. Well...for a while anyway, but it seems like everything resets once the car is cut off and back on again.

    What could possibly cause this to happen?
  • Greetings allmet33:
    Electronics and Electrical are tough to diagnose over the internet.
    If you are going to repair it yourself then here is an address for a web page run by Audi.https://www/
    Read through the intro page because they don't work for free.
    By entering a valid vehicle identification number (VIN), you will be able to view all important vehicle data, such as model, model year, engine code etc. You can now call up the necessary "Repair and service information" for this data. Please note that you can only view the content of the documents with a valid flat-rate.

    I can tell you up front if the problem is Central control unit (CEU) related replacement is the only option. If ABS or ESP sensors
    are the problem it's a get down dirty job and you will need a lift, unless you enjoy crawling around on the ground. It's also possible that you have a loose wire connector at the Dashboard/LED screen or cold soldier joint on printed circuit board in the same area. If your ABS & ESP do not electronically interrupt the ABS or ESP functions while driving my guess would be a short circuit causing the lights to come on.

    JKAudiA6 :shades:
  • Hi, I just read your post, I have a 2002 A6 avant quatro with 3.0L
    which I just found has a crack in the engine block in # 6 cylinder, leaking coolant into the cylinder. only 55k miles. this is very disappointing, checking with audi
    if it is a casting problem. No overheating.
  • Yes, and how. I finally traded in my 2002 A6 a month ago because of the extent of repairs needed. The car had 120k miles and I couldn't see putting any more money into it, since the warranty expired at 100k miles. The check engine light has been on for the past 10,000 miles or so. The dealer told me it was a faulty part/sensor within the torque converter, which is part of the emissions system. It didn't seem to affect performance at all -- at least not that I could tell. The straw that broke the camel's back was my last trip to the dealer for regular service -- in addition to the torque converter issue, they told me that both catalytic converters needed to be replaced. The total estimate for all repairs was $4,800!! I said "no thanks" and immediately began shopping around for a new car.

    This car also burned at least 1 quart of oil in between oil changes (done religiously at each 5k mile interval). The gas tank had to be replaced (leaking) at about 80k miles. I replaced the timing belt at about 105k miles -- pretty expensive repair, including the usual water pump replacement, etc.

    Because my emissions test was coming due in a couple months, and it wouldn't pass without the repairs, I ended up trading it in and buying a new 2010 Honda Pilot Touring 4WD. I shopped the Audi around to all local Honda dealers to see who would give me the highest trade -- I disclosed the check engine light issue to all dealers. I ended up taking $5,000 for it on trade, which I thought was a fair deal, given the $ it was going to take to get it registered / through emissions.
  • allmet33allmet33 Posts: 3,557
    Thanks for the info.

    Here's another one for you. Just recently my turn signals stopped blinking when activated. Here's the kicker...the work when I turn on the hazard lights and when I lock/unlock the car with the remote. So...the lights all work and they even flash still. My thinking is a flasher relay or an issue with the turn signal switch itself. As of right now...if I activate the turn signal, the lights come on solid to the side I'm indicating my turn, no blinking. :confuse:
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,404
    I think 120K is a good time to bail on an out of warranty Audi that is exhibiting serious issues. Good decision IMO.


  • jkaudia6jkaudia6 Posts: 77
    edited February 2010
    Hey Allmet33,
    Have we talked before about something else on your car?
    Turn signal, sounds like your on the right track.
    Relay first, may be located in the left side dash area,not sure.
    Check your fuse listing see if it's fused.
    Turn signal Switch is more difficult because of "Air Bags"
    Dangerous work if you don't know what your doing.
    Could cause you personal injury when removing the the Steering wheel.
    Not to mention Multifunctional controls if you have them.
    Emergency flashers, remote functions activate different circuits for
    the same lights,IE. they bypass the turn signal circuit, that's why they
    still work.
    If your a "due it your self''er" then go to ( Erwin web page.
    Audi has an hourly rate, get the graphics and Tech sheets on how to switch out
    the turn signal assembly for model. You'll need your VID, Model, Year, ETC........
    Good Luck
    JKAudiA6 :shades:
  • Greetings Pilotguy2:

    I'd dido that which Mr.Shift-right (Host) said.
    Those pre 2005 Audi's had a number of issues.
    I had similar problems with a 1990 BMW 5 Series and it bleed me to death.
    When you start replacing a major component more than one time within
    a relatively short period of time, it is a bug that won't go away.
    Enjoy your Honda Pilot 4WD.
    Happy Trails
    JKAudiA6 :shades:
  • allmet33allmet33 Posts: 3,557
    Yes...I posted earlier about my ABS and TCS lights coming on randomly, but turning off when the car is re-started. I'll have a diagnostic run when I take it in for an oil change. I may even ask them about the turn signal as it is frustrating.

    Thank you so much for your insight and knowledge, much appreciated.

  • I should learn from you guys! I have a 2002 A6 with only 56k miles and I am pulling my hair out! Hindsight is great, huh? I still remember the day I chose the A6 over the GS300. Since that decision, I average repair bills over 1500 - 2000 per year. At 49k miles, the torque converter went. Luckily we caught it before it took out my transmission. Just last month I had to replace the power steering pump. Did I mention the hole in the 'quattro system' from 18 months ago? Sitting in the garage next to my A6 is my wife's RX300 with 100k miles. Nearly double the miles and not one thing, outside of normal maintenance, has gone wrong with the car.

    The good news is the car starts every morning and blasts through the snow better than most pick ups and SUV's. The control of the vehicle in adverse conditions is simply amazing. I suppose $2k a year in repairs sure beats a $400 or $500 monthly car payment.
  • jkaudia6jkaudia6 Posts: 77
    edited February 2010
    Greetings Mr.Kealbert (Audi Woes),
    56k_miles in seven years is not allot of driving. If your spending that much on repairs
    per year, get the equity you still have in that 02_A6 and put it in something more reliable. With only 56K miles you should get a better trade_in offer because the dealer that resell's that car will use the "Low Mileage" as a selling point. I can see the sign now as I'm driving buy the used car lot. "Low Mileage" Audi A6, Germany Engineered to Last. OK, I'm being a bit truthful, they might leave out the last part.
    Lexus, has been beating the pants off the German Car Manufacture for years, but you don't see many on the road in Germany.
    That being said, Audi does build a great car NOW, POST 2004.
    I just purchased a 05_A6 Quattro, One owner, 35K_miles. Hope I don't have to eat my words when I have it serviced.
    Should you decide to trade in "RESEARCH,RESEARCH,RESEARCH.
    Good luck.
    Best Regards
    JKAudiA6 :shades:
  • Greetings Mr. [Brooksman]
    Ref.Your A6 Quattro Transmission problem.
    I read every thread on this, I'm just amazed.
    Have things been resolved?
    Best Regards
  • Greetings,
    Wow, enough problems to choke a horse.
    Do you have a question?
    Or! If I understand your post correctly you purchased a car with a Rebuild engine (ATQ). Certainly it must be out of warranty after eight years.
    Honestly, you need to shake loose of that "Dream CAR".
    Your putting more in it than it's worth. In Germany, Classic Cars are classified by
    age starting with 25 Years. At thirty years they become Antics.
    A 2005, or 06, A6 or newer would be four or five years old as of 2010, has a much better reliability rating from independent auto reviewers and based on what your spending now would be less to operate than your current "Week End Car".
    Hope this is of some help.
  • dwpcdwpc Posts: 159
    After 88K miles and 9 years, I've had it with my 01 A6 2.7T. I started having significant problems immediately after the warranty expired. I've put about $4K into non-wear item repairs. Last month, $800 for oxygen sensors and when I got it back, the mechanic told me the tie rod ends are shot and I have a leaking transmission seal. Not to mention the outrageous valve cover and cam seal oil seepage causing smoke to waft up from the front wheel wells but too expensive to replace, the embarrassing bad LED screen right in the middle of the instrument panel, the rear window's spontaneous water leak, or the blown speaker.

    I used to be upset that the Audi resale was so low; now I'll just be happy to be rid of it. Seems the used market anticipates Audi repair costs. Its been a marvelous car to drive in terms of performance and comfort, but in my 40+ years of owning cars, I've never had a car that needed so many costly repairs nor seen a car deteriorate so soon and so consistently. I had planned to drive this car until the wheels fell off. Little did I know how quickly that comes for an Audi.
  • jkaudia6jkaudia6 Posts: 77
    Greetings DWPC,
    Well I don't see any questions so I guess I'll just say, your doing the right thing.

    Having said that, I've been doing this Forum for two maybe three months now
    and most of the Audi problems are pre2004 models. No I don't work for Audi.

    I'm taken back buy the prices U.S.Audi customers are paying for parts.
    For example, an Oxygen sensor for $800 must be with labor, but even that's way out of line unless of course the sensor in question is a-fixed to the "CAT Converter exhaust unit.
    On a more constructive basis, let me just say the following:
    a. In particular Oxygen sensors are wear items on most cars today, even BMW.
    Why? Because even under ideal conditions it will go bad. But the wrong gasoline, wrong motor oil will also cause early sensor retirement, Ref: The Car Bible Web page or Auto MD are good reference points.
    b. Seals should have been done with regular major service intervals.
    c. The Ball joint ends of tie rods are a wear item, but bad bug on pre-2004 Audi's.
    I changed mine three times on 1990 5 series BMW along with front & rear crankshaft seal over 18 year period. That's 3x6=18
    That LED Control panel your referring to is a typical first generation (Electronic) problem shared not only buy Audi but also BMW and perhaps others.

    I understand your frustration. And in closing will just add a couple of points.
    Don't put the sizzle before the steak when buying a car.
    Research ever independent report you can get about the mechanical reliability, service cost, customer review...... of a particular car, but forget the hip.
    Every new Model has AC,HP,Torque, Auto Trans, Leather, Audio, Telephone & Navigation & 0-60 Sec. in one second. But if it falls apart under your feet after the warranty ends you won't remember any of those extras.
    And finally, never buy new unless your leasing for business and can deduct from your Inc.Taxes. Low mileage Certified model of your choice based on Research. And finally, I'm more convinced than ever a "Buyer Representative" is the best way to saving money. But you must still do the pre-purchase research.
    Finally, it's tax time, check the instruction book for 2009 and see what the tax advantages are for purchasing an Eco/Green vehicle;ie, rebates, right offs......

    Uncle Sam is trying to help.
    Hope this has been of some help.
    Best Regards
    JKAudiA6/05 Quattro Tiptronic.
  • dwpcdwpc Posts: 159
    The $800 was for two oxy sensors installed at the dealer, and that was $300 less than the quote from the indie tech whom I no longer use. I only replaced them because I can't unload the car with the CE light glaring.
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