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Audi A6 Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • gbosleygbosley Posts: 20
    I had a 2006 A6 4.2 Canyon Red Paint Job with 98% of all option , i loved that car the handling and performance and really gas mileage was great , And Then about a year and half into my lease i am not sure of miles but had to be in lows 20,000 miles i thinking it went south , started with fuel gauge just going from fuel level to empty , GPS freezing up the icon not moving on map as the car was traveling , so i took it in to my dealer in western part of baltimore county and thinking all issues where taken care of and few days went by when i am on belt way and it blew extreme heat out the a/c vents so hot i had to turn it off you could not touch the left side of steering wheel or turn signal , back and forth to dealer this issue not corrected i got a thermomator it was blowing 180 degrees at a snap of a finger , and then fuel gauge gps and other small stuff was happening radio would go to full volume it was having it seems a electrical melt down , finally dealer contacted audi to get a tech to come , well 45 days till that happen my car sat , i could not drive it , the customer care people must read a script i think there is no help there the customer rep for audi would not call me till it got to a very heated moment at dealer and on phone .
    i finally met him in late july or first of august 2007, this all started at end of march i think it was August till finally got audi to take the car back. truly a very difficult and stress full time which it should had not been communication was big failure for audi,
    the day that happen there was two customer in service having a melt down with service rep over there issues , and i spoke to one ask him about his car , his statement to me was this is my second A6 and it my last , when first one was a lemon i just thought no way this would happen to me two times , so i know it was not just me , and looking at all comments on here i am surprised that any one buys one , and if you do decide to step into audi market buy extended warranty , and make sure that you never leave dealership with paper work showing worked performed and always demand a loaner if it in for warranty no matter if it a quick fix
    if you ever have to call 800 customer care line start a log , date and time and who you talk to and what about
    i think the car looks great but quality for money you pay for is not there or at least when i got mine and I even sent a Constructive letter to Audi CEO in Michigan about all my troubles and lack of care i was getting from there rep he did not even have enough courtesy to even send a letter back to say TOUGH , and if dealer says that service is included get copy of what is and for how long and be sure it on there letter head and signed , I had to get Maryland Attorney General office consumer affairs involved to get a result and did . As one audi owner said to me back during my troubles welcome to world of 4 rings hell , good luck
  • jkaudia6jkaudia6 Posts: 77
    Greetings Dalia1,
    This may very well be to late but here goes:
    The Automatic Gear shift lever release is controlled by several devices.
    1. There is a sensor in the Ignition switch area ID's the Key
    2a. The Ignition switch is encoded so when you put the key in the switch it knows if
    its the correct key for that vehicle.
    2b. The ignition key is encoded so the ignition switch can ID the Key.
    3. There is another which which released the Automatic Trans gear shift lever when
    items (1&2 have been done correctly.
    4. In the center consoled area under the ash tray is a switch which allows you to release the gear shift should the vehicle need to be towed, for example.
    Hope this helps.
    jkAudiA6
  • jkaudia6jkaudia6 Posts: 77
    Hi Gbosley,
    Well your message is certainly laud and clear, in particular the portions that refer to "Customer Service and being responsive in a timely manner".
    There are several lessons to be learned for all who read your comments.
    a. The most important thing about any car purchased is not how fast it is, the paint color or the extras list.
    b. That when you have a problem with a particular dealer or it's service department
    you should make a calculated decision to find a more helpful/reliable Certified dealer service department or independent shop.
    c. When all else fails, in particular when a vehicle is "a young timer" (within warranty& low mileage) do what ever it takes to get results, including the Attorney Generals office.
    All of that being the case I'm particularly interested in where these vehicles are Mfg'd. I say that because although the emblem indicates "Made In Germany" I'm not so sure they are. I say this because in Germany, where I live, the independent
    automotive Magazines, including ADAC (The equivalent of AAA) give Audi the highest reliability ratings. These ratings are based on Customer service feed back and confirmed service statistics for Germany.
    And more to the point what is "Made in Germany" really mean. Engineered in Germany, built in the USA or Africa or Hungry or Poland??????????????
    Well you get the point.
    I don' t know how the fine print reads for extended warranties in the USA but in Germany it's a contract.
    One year at a time
    Kilometer dependent, that is as the kilometers increase on the Odometer the amount of extended warranty decreases;ie, 100%/90%/80%.................
    It is a limited Guarantee based on Kilometers and length of ownership but transferable within that time period.
    It is service dependent in that owners service booklet must reflect the Mfg's recommended servicing.
    In general it only covers major components:
    Drive train excluding normal wear items: (Brake pads, rotors, mufflers,etc.)
    Electrical and electronics.
    Finally I would simple tell you that when I had a BMW the rules of the game were
    about the same, and I suspect that most every Vehicle Mfg. will have similar rules.
    There is an old saying in the Sales profession:
    "Sell the sizzle not the steak"
    or in the words of Kenny Rogers (The country Western singer):
    "You gotta know when to hold'em and know when to fold'em".
    Hope your in a better position now than when you purchased you last one.
    Best regards
    jkAudiA6 :shades:
  • willie94 My right catalytic converter now failed in my audi A6 2003 AVK 3.0 After I had 6 ignition coil replaced Thur recall due to 1 ignition coil went bad. Also cam position sensor went out well as my mass air flow exchange the change over barrel broken between Actuator mechanism and timing belt change. In all 3,155.07. I had letter from Audi Oct 09 said not to bring the car in unless the check engine light came on <(MIL-Malfunction Indicator Lamp will illuminate then let us know)=from Audi letter.. This check engine light came on in August 2010, one coil failed, and also my car was shaking so badly too. That's when I got this fixed and now right Catalytic converters has fail.
  • jkaudia6jkaudia6 Posts: 77
    Hi Willie94:
    Are you the original owner of this vehicle???
    If it's a diesel engine and depending on the model (Vehicle year) the catalytic converters in earlier models were not self cleaning;ie, they got dirty after a number of years then have to be replaced. This has since been changed, in that, catalytic converters are now self cleaning. OK.
    If it's a Gasoline engine, then what kind of motor oil are you using?
    See an earlier post of mine with a link to a PDF showing all approved motor oils for Audi/VW.
    I don't mean the brand, I mean, Mineral based or Synthetic? VW/Audi has recommended Motor Oil standards and they should be followed. In particular Mineral based motor oils leave deposits on the "Lumda Sonda" sensor which is usually located in the catalytic converter. Check your owners manual or the Audi Web page for recommendations. Another options would be "The Car Bible" web page @ http://www.carbibles.com/engineoil_bible.html#blackdeath.
    I don't know what kind of Cam Positioning Device your Audi has but in my previous BMW it was an electronic devise with no moving parts. If it went bad it would seem to me that your engine would have been trashed as all the timing factors related to Valve and piston timing would be non functional.
    As for the Air Flow meter meter, I've read information, again on the Car Bible, that spraying cleaner fluids, to remove dust, for exampled will level deposits on the hair fine wire causing it to give incorrect readings. Of course the control device for that unit is electronic as well.
    I'm not familiar with the abreviation "AVK" but if it' means a rebuild engine, who did the work????
    JKAudiA6 :shades:
  • bigdadi118bigdadi118 Posts: 1,207
    edited October 2010
    Re I'm not familiar with the abreviation "AVK" but if it' means a rebuild engine, who did the work????
    AVK is Engine Code

    CAT Converter has mandatory waranty of 8 years / 80,000 mi ... Audi has to replace it for free if within that.

    For reference : Mini-Cat-Cel-Fix

    There is MAF sensor cleaner made by CRC ... I saw my local PepBoy carries it.
  • I drove the car and parked it as always. Two days later the lever will shift from P to R and to N, but it won't shift to D. I really do not know what to do anymore.... Any help?
  • My engine light has been on since March of this year! My dealer said it would need to be analyzed for $360. Received the Ignition Coil letter; checked with the Audi website today. It responded that my Vin # was not one of those with the problem. I've just added about 1 quart of oil in the past 1.5 months. I'm thinking it's the engine?
    I now have 98000+ miles on it and need my 95000 service done. Any hints as to what I should be aware. I know those service fees are exhorbitant and would like to lessen the "bite." Thank you, skiddadle
  • allmet33allmet33 Posts: 3,557
    The check engine light came on in my A6 as well. Took it to the shop for the diagnostic ($89) and they informed me that the left catalytic converter had gone bad.
  • Hi Skiddadle,
    1.Engine light on which model A6;ie, Quattro 3.2l, 4.2l, 3.0l Turbo.............
    The engine type would determine if you have one or two Catalytic Converters.
    2. If your engine is using more than 1 quart/1000miles and I assume it is because your adding Oil.
    My Question is what kind of oil have you been using for the last four years or since you've owned the vehicle?
    3. The "Engine Warning light" will come on for a number of different reasons.
    If you've been using a low grade gasoline, fuel or oil additives which are not recommended they can contaminate your Lamda Sonda sensor which is mounted directly in or near the catalytic converter/rs.
    If will answer these three questions then I can be more specific.

    Thanks
    jkAudiA6 :sick:
  • Hi wchocol,
    OK, it's a multilevel problem in that it could be any one of several general areas pertaining to the Transmission and supporting elements:
    1. Does the Lock release button on your Gear shift lever work?
    2. What type transmission due you have:ie, Automatic which type?
    3. Is the battery in the vehicle OLD or new?
    4. Does your vehicle have All wheel drive (AWD) quattro with Electronic Locking of
    the wheels when the transmission is in Park.
    5. Do you hear any clicking sounds from the following areas when starting the engine and moving the gear shift lever to P,N,R?
    a. Clicking near the Ignition switch
    b. Clicking near the Gear Shift lever.
    c. Clicking when you step on the brake, engine running or not?
    If you can answer some or all of these question perhaps we can narrow it down do just a couple areas.
    Note: If you don't feel comfortable with all this then have the vehicle towed to a reliable Audi Dealer or Certified Independent shop who has knowledge of Audi and the necessary test/Diagnostic equipment.
    Your next question should be "What is a reasonable answer to your problem".
    I would say that if the transmission gave you no problems/unusual noises or low fluids (ATF), then it could be a simple as a broken control switch, or low ATF Fluid, a control valve within the transmission, loose mechanical connection of the gear shift, a ECU (Control Unit) which control the Transmission functions or a combination there of any of the above. Without more information it's difficult to narrow it down.
    An authorized Audi service center would be your best beat, but don't let them sell you a new/rebuilt transmission at this point.
    Best Regards
    jkAudiA6 :sick:
  • allmet33allmet33 Posts: 3,557
    Interesting turn of events. After taking the car for a diagnostic due to the check engine light coming on...the light has now gone off by itself. :confuse:
  • kilo35kilo35 Posts: 7
    Hi & Happy New Year,

    I have sustained some damage to my front passenger side along with some slight damage to the grill "bezel". My local dealer quoted me around $2200 for repair. My question is two-fold,
    1: Should I just wait until I turn the the car in (5 months) and just deal with what they say then or could that backfire on me?
    2:If I take it to a local collision shop and obviously save some cash is it possible when I do turn it in that it won't pass their muster and I still get hit for more fees?
  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H Posts: 10,824
    You might want to also post in our Lease Termination Fees and Other Costs discussion - I know it doesn't sound like a good fit, but people who have expertise in the general area of turning in a car with damage vs. fixed damage will be likely to see it there.

    MODERATOR
    Need help navigating? kirstie_h@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.
    Share your vehicle reviews

  • kilo35kilo35 Posts: 7
    Thank You, I will do that.
  • jkaudia6jkaudia6 Posts: 77
    edited January 2011
    Hi kilo35,
    You should compare both options.
    1. If the accident was not your fault and your insurance company will pay the bill minus your deductible is one option.
    2. Check your Leasing contract for turn in of a damaged car.
    a. Normally the lease turn-in has conditions Mileage/year Max @ Turn-in......
    and condition of car.
    b. Under your conditions:ie, damaged vehicle, depending on the contract conditions you may have to pay them a portion or all of the repair cost.
    The question really is: Is your deductible less than what it may cost you @ turn-in time in five months if the dealer charges you for the damage.
    jkAudiA6 :sick:
  • bigdadi118bigdadi118 Posts: 1,207
    edited February 2011
    There is sqeaky noise on right front wheel area when car goes over a bigger speed bumps.
    Lately it has same over the potholes.
    Will this be sway bar bushing, tierod or upper control arm bushing?
    2002 A6Q Avant w/125k mi.
  • Hey bigdadi118:
    All of the above plus shocks or ?????.
    Another words!
    When the front suspension compresses something is squeaking. The car does not know if it's a "pothole or speed bump.
    a.You need to get the car up on a lift and look for dry warn rubber bushings
    leaking shocks, if they are hydraulic, or ball joints on tie-rod ends where the rubber bushing is leaking.
    b. You could us a lubricating "Light Oil" and spray each of the aforementioned parts, one at a time, Test and repeat until the squeak stops. You could also go to a "Inspection Center where they have a Vibration machine to test and provide a printout of shock absorber analysis.
    You should do this with a helper in the interest of saving time and energy.
    c. Also try turning the steering Lock to Lock (Rt.& Left) which may also reveal a unusual noise if it's steering or linkage related.
    Good Luck
    JKAudiA6 :shades:
  • Hi, I have a 99 A6 that I have loved for a decade. Today, when turning on the ignition, the usual display came up on the panel indicating all systems were "OK". Then when I shifted into gear, the display screen went dark. Only the gear indicator was illuminated. I tried to push the reset button on the underside of the wiper stalk but nothing happened.
    Any ideas please?
    Thanks in advance.
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