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Audi A6 Maintenance and Repair

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  • I've just gone over 50k miles (put on 120+ miles a day). Beginning last week, car stalled on a Tuesday and I had it towed. I could start the car but it continuously cut-off. Next day, car ran fine until Thursday. Car stalled again with same problems existing. Checked oil and it appeared to be extremely low. Car towed to dealership and they had it for 2 days and found nothing wrong other than the need for an oil change.

    I have had the car back for 2 days and it just stalled out again around 7pm. Left the car, came back to it at 9pm and the car is running like nothing happened.

    Any idea what I should be telling the tech to look for?
  • Hi Clylesir,
    To start with if they had your car for two days and did not find anything wrong you need to
    seriously find a better Audi Service Center, even if you purchased the car there.
    Tell me, did they "The Service Dept." of your Audi dealer do a Diagnostic read out and not give you a copy and charge you for that Diagnostic read out on your "Oil Change Reciept"????????? Shame on Them my friend.
    If not go back and get one, any error codes in particular from the Engine electronics, engine Temperature and fuel systems.
    Then find out if there are Technical Service bullitens,(TSB's) regarding your specific problem.
    Another question:
    Does the car always start and run until the engine gets warm then stall?
    I don't know if your current model is the same but in the 99 A6 The Engine temperature sensor is a dual sensor and measures Engine Water Temperature and Fuel pressure.
    DOES IT STOP WHILE DRIVING??????
    DO YOU HAVE ANY WARNING LIGHTS on the Instrument Cluster before the problem happens???
    Get back to me with that Info.
    Thanks
    JKAudiA6 :sick:
  • Yep, that's a pretty sad Audi dealer. If you are in the San Francisco Bay Area, I can refer you to Audi people who actually know what they are doing.
  • Regarding diagnostic --Tech message stated "scanned no codes and could not duplicate concern. The car sat through wknd...I started up and drove the car again and could not duplicate concern." I didn't see a charge other than oil change receipt and did not receive a copy of the diagnostic read out.

    The stalls have happened at various times (15 minutes into drive after sitting during work day; stalled after sitting for a 10 minute period between stops; stalled after 1 1/2 commute when backing out of driveway)

    2 out of 3 stalls occurred while I was driving and never at a speed level above 15 - 20mph.

    There have been no warning lights prior to the 3 incidents.

    I was able to drive it to the dealer today (20 minutes approx) without any problems. Left it and waiting to see what's next.

    Thanks JK...
  • Regarding diagnostic --Tech message stated "scanned no codes and could not duplicate concern. The car sat through wknd...I started up and drove the car again and could not duplicate concern." I didn't see a charge other than oil change receipt and did not receive a copy of the diagnostic read out.

    The stalls have happened at various times (15 minutes into drive after sitting during work day; stalled after sitting for a 10 minute period between stops; stalled after 1 1/2 commute when backing out of driveway)

    2 out of 3 stalls occurred while I was driving and never at a speed level above 15 - 20mph. Conditiions have varied as well i.e. heavy rains, dry and NJ cool.

    There have been no warning lights at anytime.

    I was able to drive it to the dealer today (20 minutes approx) without any problems. Left it and waiting to see what's next.

    Thanks JK...
  • You might have gotten the "sunshine treatment".
  • jkaudia6jkaudia6 Posts: 77
    edited January 2012
    Hi. ! http://uberlame.com/a6_tsb/Engine/RVU%20-%203.2%20V6%20FSI%20ECM%20update.pdf
    Please copy this linked address to your browser and read, Even if some or all is not clear because of technical terms. When you get done with that I have couple of questions:
    1. Did you purchase the vehicle New?
    2. you mention earlier the Oil level was very low;
    A. Are you on a 12 month service interval program or 24 Months?
    B. Are you using Mineral based motor oil?
    3. Ref. Question Nr.1, Have you or the previous owner had any "Chip tuning done by A third party tuning shop?
    4. Ref. question 2a,b; If your oil level was really low you should have had a warning light unless of course the light or sensor for it were defective. If it is defective and the oil level was "very low" then the engine would shut down.
    Check your Operators manual about that.
    5. Also if your using a Mineral based Oil you need to stop doing that as A6 3.2 liter engines are highly proned to "Sludge build up" Check your operation manual
    For the correct Oil recommended by Audi/VW. Since your vehicle is now three plus years old, unless you purchased an extension warranty, your car will not be covered in either case unless you follow the Mfg's service intervals.
    The link which I attached talks about software updates for A6 3.2 FSI vehicle "IF" your vehicle has a "vin number" which falls within the referenced VIN number range. This info. is from an Audi Tech. Bullies which I found on the net. Print it out and Talk to your dealer about this issue.

    Please understand I'm not saying any one or more of the issues above are the cause of your problem, but we have to start somewhere, correct.
    Be informed before you take your car in, not after. One last note-about driving habits as I also drive an A6 3.2 Quattro: Short trips with An A6 3.2 eng. is like stuffing rags in a vacuum cleaner, sooner or later it will choke to death. I say this with,, "Tongue in Cheak" but if that's the case Find a long road, if you get my drift, and be careful. Have you not noticed that it uses fare less gas at highway speeds than in the city?
    Let us know how things turn out.
    Thanks
    JKAudi44 : :shades:

    Sent from my iPad
  • 4moneypit4moneypit Posts: 4
    edited January 2012
    '03 Audi A6 2.7T QT SDN 39,000mi of elderly parnts. Single Audi dealer w/n ~170mi. $45K pd new. Want dlr take back moneypit, then get CR-reliable car. Suggestions re audi strategy? ~$5000 Lifetime repairs pd to-date [incl replacing I/O tie rod assembly, ignition coils, torsen differential seal, door lock switches, O sensor, coolant & exhaust temp sensors, aux water pump, eng shield hardware, chain tensioner seals, rr cam plugs, fr axle differential seal, valve cover gasket, emerg flasher switch, battery (2nd x) and brake light switch].
    ~$6300 + tx in ADDITIONAL repairs "recommended" Dec '11 but now deferred [including replacing fr brake pads/rotors (2nd x)), pan gasket and engine rr main seal, lt fr drive axle & CV boot (2nd boot), rt ft axle shaft seal, shifter assembly for reverse light, and rr rotors]. ~$3000 + tx in MORE ADDITIONAL repair (dealer's analysis but not currently "recommended") : replace valve seal guides (after 2 induction services for exhaust smoke on startup). Therefore, ~$10,000 imminent/future repairs!!! Thank you for any feedback.
  • Greeting 4moneypit!
    Well in general terms one would expect a vehicle of t">link titlehat price class to have fewer problems . But then I drove an E34 BMW for twenty one years, 180k miles total before I finally said it's time to let go. AS for an Audi strategy, the more I read about U.S. Audi on this and other forums and having worked as a New car service advisor for 10 plus years I can't help but wonder.
    A.Is there a difference in quality control and third party supply chains between Audi Europe and the U.S. Of course it's difficult at best to get a straight answer from a dealer salesman or women, and they most like would not know anyway where specific parts are Manufactured on any given vehicle. But these days it's common place to find replacement parts from, China,Poland as well as other forgien third party Mfg's. The question is then, are they of the same quality as "German" parts. My answer to that has several answers:
    1. Original Equipment Manufactured (OEM) parts have a different engineered quality level than replacements parts from thiird party suppliers.
    2. OEM does not always mean that a given vehicle MFG makes the parts used in the vehicles they build. What it really means is that parts "OEM", sold as OEM parts are to the engineered standards of that Vehicle MFG.
    3. There are also government standards applicable in the country where the vehicle is sold.
    In general The record shows Audi does an exceptional job of building mass production vehicles in a number of different price classes. Are motor vehicles perfect, no. Is there a difference between U.S. models and German Market vehicles, it appears so.In the end you will have to decide when your vehicle, the pleasure or aggrevation level has peaked, and tread in.
    All of that withstanding Audi is not a cheap car to buy or own And Maintain.
    I purchased my 05, A6 Quattro, used one owner with fifty-one K kilometers, about 35k miles. IN the first year I replace the battery, and blinker repair from an Audi dealer, cost 500 € or about $650. This year a Headlight adjustment motor $80 DIY, brake pads and rotors on the front, ceramic 750€.
    Of course when the head gasket on our 1990bmw blew in 09, it was a surprise.
    And after laying out $2000 just to find out it would cost another 1k I did the work myself with the help of a friend and then sold it to him for 500 cash. So when you talk about money pits, some cars are just better than others.
    One last word and I'll stop! I started to smoke when I was 17 and stopped @ 42
    My first car was A fifty-one Chevy since then Nine other cars, give or take. Then the best one was my 1966 Beatle, now it's my A6. Of course if I were
    to add up all the money I've spent on maintenance and repair, oH well you get the idea. What's the answer! If your rich buy what you like, if your not rich then Research,research, reseach.The Internet is a wealth of information.
    Good luck to you my friend for the New Year.
    Best Regards
    JKAudiA6 :shades:
  • you really need second opinions on these deferred items--I suspect you are being vastly oversold, given the scant mileage on the car. Are you in a large metro area? Are there any German repair shops which are independently owned?
  • 4moneypit4moneypit Posts: 4
    edited January 2012
    Thank you -- think you're the first to catch the details. Unfortunately, small area, small state, no indies that do German. Dlr basically has monopoly. Given the relentless history & prospects, really want this out of ps' hair.
    While I know they're in diff "classes", it still seems telling on even "driver-maintenance" type repairs as opposed to what seem to be manufacturer quality/reliability repairs: so just sharing (& so much for Audi's high performance):

    New battery Audi 16K & 39K but Honda 46K and 94K.
    New rear brake pads Audi 18K & 37K but Honda 76K
    New front brake pads Audi 20K & 39K but Honda 88K
  • Well then go to a regular repair shop---even a garage that repairs pickup trucks can tell if rotors are shot or axle boots are bad. They might not want to fix them but at least you'll have more information so that you can unload this car. It's obviously not working out for you at all.
  • Hi Mr.Shiftight Ref: Moneypit !
    I guess I over did my commentary with (Mr. 4moneypit). But after a bit of thought I'm wondering if a car that's 8 years old really has that many problems. According to the owner It only has 39000 miles, that is just under 5K/Year. From a mileage stand point it is not even out of warranty. Odometer tampering????, and if my memory serves me correctly, in O3 Audi was offering a drive train warranty of 5 years. I have a friend with a 99 A6 3 Ltr. 5 Cly.V6 w/300K Kilometers and with the exception of a leaking Valve cover gasket and his inspection, the car was dry as bone from front to back.
    In any case thanks for stepping in. I tend to be a bit long winded.
    Best regards
    Still Summer in the Bay Area???
    J.Infield (jkAudiA6) :shades:
  • yep, still summertime here with palm trees and parrots in the trees (not really, but it's in the high 60s).
  • I have car back and is running fine! The tech did get an error code this time and it related to Internal Failure in Fuel Pressure Sensor.

    They replaced low fuel pressure sensor. Under warrantly so I wasn't taking car back until it was fixed....but could just imagine what might have been without a warranty.
  • Happy New Year Clylesir,
    That is great news. I hope you enjoy your A6 for a long time to come.
    The O8 A6 is a great looking Automobile and very complex. Also a promo for Edmunds, they have a number of great helpful hint areas. My moto is you've got to be smarter than the Service advisors in order to keep them honest. You've heard the old saying, "Some are just better than others".
    Have a great day and enjoy.
    Best Regards
    JKAudiA6 ;)
  • i have a 1996 a6 quattro, and i love it!!! but i cant lock my doors. i have tried the keys, and the buttons on the doors and even the little remote. but nothing works. i hate that i cant lock it. so my question is, is there a way to fix that without spending a ton of money? like can i do it myself, if i change the battery in the remote or something?
  • allmet33allmet33 Posts: 3,557
    Have you checked all your fuses?
  • no. i dont know where my fuses are.
  • MrShift@EdmundsMrShift@Edmunds Posts: 43,693
    the book says the fuse is # A3 - Central Locking System Fuse, S52

    and that it is in Auxiliary Relay Panel #1 but it doesn't tell me where that is :cry:

    Oh wait---it does show the fuse panel by your left foot and the Aux Relay panel higher up, underneath, up near the windshield.

    So get a comfy pillow, tape a flashlight to your head, and get up under there.
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