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Chevy Silverado

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Comments

  • In reference to messages 200, 202 and 203 of this post.
    "This is information only"
    I Brought the truck in to the dealer for the replacement of the "improved" nickel plated slip yoke. Problem still there. There is no significant difference with the improved yoke compare with the old.
    ...Canayjun64
  • sonjaabsonjaab Posts: 1,057
    New 03 Chevy Quad steers---$27xxx adv. in
    Syracuse paper today.........
  • I had my '00 4x4 ext cab 1500 in about 2 mo. ago for the popular clunk that is heard when you step on the gas, especially after either having been braking, or turning. They lubed the splines of the shaft, which worked for about 2 weeks.

    I've read a lot of posts on this, and the original fix by GM was to replace the output yoke with a new nickel yoke. I was told by the svc.mgr. that they aren't doing this anymore, because GM says it's an inherent noise. In other words, they don't know what causes it, so they've thrown up their hands.

    I just checked alldata, and the TSB for replacing the yoke is still there, so I'm going to show it to the svc.mgr.
  • I have what sounds like a lifter tapping at idle only. When you step on the gas, it goes away. Anyone else have this? I didn't see any TSB's for it, so it's probably an isolated thing. I'm using the correct oil viscosity and it's not too full or too low (3 things that can cause the noise).
  • rayt2rayt2 Posts: 1,208
    Go here to learn more about your lifter tap, you may be surprised... http://www.angelfire.com/tx5/gmpistonslap/


    There is also a discussion board in here under GM Engine Knock

    Ray T.

  • sonjaabsonjaab Posts: 1,057
    What your hearing is the fuel pulsing thru
    the fuel rails and injectors ! Not lifter
    tap....Took mine in for that and cold start
    knock ! Mechanic whipped out stethoscope
    and sho' nuff it was the fuel system.
    Now the cold start knock thats another
    story although now thats its summer the
    cold start knock went away !....geo
  • jimtncjimtnc Posts: 36
    I've been trying to find the OEM 235/75-16 tires that came on my truck, but no one carries them...can be ordered, but not on hand. Has anyone run into this and what did you do? Would appreciate your thoughts. Apologize if this is wrong forum. Thanks.
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,065
    go one size bigger....245/75R16
  • jimtncjimtnc Posts: 36
    that's what I was thinking also. Would there be any problem keeping 235's on the back and new 245's on the front (same axle) for a couple of months until I can get the other two? Shouldn't affect driving, should it?
  • rayt2rayt2 Posts: 1,208
    That is not recommended, you could throw off the handling, braking charicteristics by doing so, why only buy 2 if you need 4 ?? If you must, put the larger size tires in the rear till you can replace the fronts with same size.

    Ray T.
  • fdhd27fdhd27 Posts: 2
    i've a 02' 2500hd. has anyone else had problems with squeaking window noise when is initially rolled down? the noise goes away when the window is rolled far enough down from the weather stripping. this only occurs in front windows. the back windows are fine. the dealer said it was dust but i'm not so convince.
  • am70043am70043 Posts: 22
    When replacing OEM tires P235/75-16 on a 1/2 ton 2WD, what is the largest size tire you can go with before any computer reprograming is needed.
  • arttartt Posts: 14
    There is another cause of the CLUNK. The TSB is below.
    Some knowledgeable sources have told me it is caused by the "crush sleave" in the rear-end. In order to assemble a rear-end without having to have an assembler make a measurement of the pinion to ring-gear lash, then select a shim to go behind the pinion before the shaft goes through the bearing, a crush sleave is inserted to collapse a fixed amount. The first time the rear-end fully loaded the pinion moves away. For racing purposes the gear lash is measured and a sleave is machined to fit and the ring-gear is smimmed.
    They have repeatedly declined to fix mine, '01 1500 RC LB 3.42 w/locker.
    They hope it last long enough to get past warranty!

    Info - Driveline Clunk #99-04-20-002A
    Driveline Clunk
    2002 and Prior Light Duty Truck Models
    This bulletin is being revised to add model years. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 99-04-20-002 (Section 04 -- Driveline/Axle).
    Important
    The condition described in this bulletin should not be confused with Driveline Stop Clunk, described in Corporate Bulletin Number 964101R (Chevrolet 92-265-7A, GMC Truck 91-4A-77, Oldsmobile 47-71-20A, GM of Canada 93-4A-100) or Bump/Clunk Upon Acceleration, described in Corporate Bulletin Number 99-04-21-004.
    Some owners of light duty trucks equipped with automatic transmissions may comment that the vehicle exhibits a clunk noise when shifting between Park and Drive, Park and Reverse, or Drive and Reverse.
    Similarly, owners of vehicles equipped with automatic or manual transmissions may comment that the vehicle exhibits a clunk noise while driving when the accelerator is quickly depressed and then released.
    Whenever there are two or more gears interacting with one another, there must be a certain amount of clearance between those gears in order for the gears to operate properly. This clearance or freeplay (also known as lash) can translate into a clunk noise whenever the gear is loaded and unloaded quickly, or whenever the direction of rotation is reversed. The more gears you have in a system, the more freeplay the total system will have.
    The clunk noise that owners sometimes hear may be the result of a buildup of freeplay (lash) between the components in the driveline.
    For example, the potential for a driveline clunk would be greater in a 4-wheel drive or all-wheel drive vehicle than a 2-wheel drive vehicle. This is because in addition to the freeplay from the rear axle gears, the universal joints, and the transmission (common to both vehicles), the 4-wheel drive transfer case gears (and their associated clearances) add additional freeplay to the driveline.
    In service, dealers are discouraged from attempting to repair driveline clunk conditions for the following reasons:
    Comments of driveline clunk are almost never the result of one individual component with excessive lash, but rather the result of the added affect of freeplay (or lash) present in all of the driveline components. Because all of the components in the driveline have a certain amount of lash by design, changing driveline components may not result in a satisfactory lash reduction.
    While some owners may find the clunk noise objectionable, this will not adversely affect durability or performance.
    © Copyright General Motors Corporation. All Rights Reserved.
  • My 00 4x4 ext cab 4.8 is about up on warranty. I took it in to have them check brakes. They say they're fine. They are very loud when cold and braking lightly. No TSB on it, but I did find a mention in another TSB about the squeaking being normal w/ semi-metallic pads. Is there any cure other than pad replacement and rotor turning?

    This is what I found in one TSB. They wash their hands of it here:

    The following noises are characteristic of all braking systems and are unavoidable. They may not indicate improper operation of the brake system.

    Squeak/squeal Noise

    Occurs with front semi-metallic brake pads at medium speeds when light to medium pressure is applied to the brake pedal.

    Occasionally a noise may occur on rear brakes during the first few stops or with cold brakes and/or high humidity.
  • I found that same TSB and a paragpraph from it below, is another "towel" for them to wash their hands of it... My clunking isn't coming from a stop; it's when you let off the gas to slow down and then step on it again. The crap below is just plain embarrassing. It's telling the world they don't want to machine parts to any particular standard; they just want to slap them together and sell sell sell. I really like the truck. I wish GM liked it as much.
    ----------------------------------------------
    Comments of driveline clunk are almost never the result of one individual component with excessive lash, but rather the result of the added affect of freeplay (or lash) present in all of the driveline components. Because all of the components in the driveline have a certain amount of lash by design, changing driveline components may not result in a satisfactory lash reduction.
    While some owners may find the clunk noise objectionable, this will not adversely affect durability or performance
  • Good point topsail. I think you've explained the situation better than I did when you quoted: (it's when you let off the gas to slow down and then step on it again) I like the truck too but I’m giving up on it (the clunk that is). I’ve got no other choice but to live with it. I've read tons of articles and posts about this and I'm beginning to believe that this will never be resolved. Here at my end ...I'm closing this chapter. The heck with it!
    Canayjun64
    P.S. It was however, quite educational.
  • jimtncjimtnc Posts: 36
    thanks rayt2, I was gonna put them on the front, but the back may be better. The tire guy down the road said it shouldn't matter if they're on the same axle, but I'll try the back and see.
  • I too have heard that noise in my '02 1500. Had read before that it may have been due to the u-joints in the drive shaft never being properly greased causing premature wear, hard to pinpoint the location if you're the only one that knows about it....glad to hear others with that (now I know I'm not the only one). There is a "differential only" mechanic here in San Diego that does lots of work for SCORE trucks...I'll take mine by and ask his opinion and let you all know what I find out.
  • I have a 1998 Silverado 5.7L with 54,000 miles. The coolant reservoir always seems to be low (past the "cold" mark). It also has what appears to dried coolant coming out the top where the overlfow tube is, like it burping out all the time. I don't see any leaks on the ground where the truck is parked, and the oil appears normal. Now, it may be my imagination, but I think I may be eating oil too. Could I have a faulty radiator cap? Any thoughts?
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,065
    overflow tube which leaks only under pressure which may explain why you show no leaks under truck. Only other way maybe leaking through the head gasket. How does the oil look?
This discussion has been closed.