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Chevy Silverado



  • dch0300dch0300 Posts: 472
    Would converting the truck to dual exhaust increase my mileage some when towing that big of a boat, or just give it a little more umph?
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,065
    Will give you more oomph on the high end. Usually a loss of torque on the low end with less restrictive exhaust system. Course there are exceptions to the rule.
  • catamcatam Posts: 331
    with obyone. I wouldn't expect any increase in gas mileage while towing with a low restriction exhaust, the only benefit you will POSSIBLY see is improved high end performance.
    Certainly any increase in mileage would only be on a 1/10ths of MPG scale, and never provide enough return to pay for the cost of the modification.
    The best way to improve your mileage while towing is to slow down. For example when my dad towed his 30' fifth wheel at 65-70mph he got about 7 mpg. He tried at 55-60 and his mileage went to a little over 8 mpg. That may not sound like a big deal but in reality its about a 15 percent improvement.
    You won't see that degree of a benefit because your boat is much lighter and more aerodynamic, but going a little slower will help.
  • dch0300dch0300 Posts: 472
    Luckily, the closest boat launch is only 5 miles away. So if we do get the 24' boat I'll only use a gallon of gas or two to get there and back.
    Though, once a year I'll need to tow it about 50 miles in order to get a little closer to the San Juan islands and to Vancouver Island in Canada before I put it in the water.

    Truck Towing Boat: 65 mph @ 8 mpg.
    Boat Pushing Water: 30 mph @ 2 mpg.
  • catamcatam Posts: 331
    Fuel consumption on a boat is rated in gallons per hour. On a 24ft boat, at wide open throttle I would random a guess of about 20-25 GPH.
  • dch0300dch0300 Posts: 472
    So why is fuel consumption on a boat rated at gallons per hour and vehicles rated at miles per gallon?

    If I'm traveling in a boat doing 30 mph and I use 15 gph, isn't that the same as getting 2 mpg?

    If I'm traveling in my truck doing 72 mph and I'm getting 18 mpg, isn't that the same as getting 4 gph?
  • akjbmwakjbmw Posts: 231
    Similar to aircraft, the medium you are moving through may not be stationary like the ground. The effect in water is more dramatic due to rate of travel being closer to the speed of the medium. The water could be flowing downstream faster than you are traveling upstream giving you a negative ground miles per gallon. Unless, of course, you really want to go downstream, just slower than the current.

    Land yachts get buffeted by the wind or water currents, but aren't affected unless traction is lost.
  • totoritotori Posts: 1
    I have a 2003 Silverado Crew Diesel. The airconditiong is horrible. It just isnt cold enough.

    We took it in once and they "fixed" something and it still doesnt work very well. I live in Southern California and the temperature does get in to the hundreds quite often but that is what it is supposed to be for! I have had several different people comment in my car about the A/C, so I am not crazy. Has anyone had this problem?
  • psgpsg Posts: 72
    goes over 90 degrees. I'm still not sure about this as the season is really just heating up in our Southern Part of Heaven - Chapel Hill, NC. I saw your post and thought, "hey, maybe I'm not crazy." I was just starting to wonder if I need to call the dealer. I've never owned a American car that didn't have an excellent A/C. Yesterday, the A/C did fine but the temperature was in the 80s. It seems when we go over 90, the A/C never gets real cold and the fan runs continuously on high (auto-climate control). I have a 2003 Silverado extended cab. We will see what August brings...
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,065
    be changing dealers since their service department seems inept.
  • catamcatam Posts: 331
    I would guess there is a problem with your AC system. I have owned 2 different Chevy trucks and both had great AC. My current truck keeps the cab very comfortable, and it has been very hot here, 103 today, and 7th straight day over 100. On pace to be the hottest July ever in my area.
    Also according to the auto press I have heard only raves about the GM AC systems in their trucks. I don't have the link, but Motor Trend did a comprehensive 4WD comparo in Death Valley last year, and I remember part of the article commented that The GM's were very popular driving choices for their "beer cooler cold AC".
    A couple of questions. Does your a/c blow sub par all the time or only at idle at a stop light. In very high temps, A/c systems have a hard time keeping up at times when there is very little air blowing thru the condenser. I would take it back to the dealer and have them check the temperature that your AC is blowing, should be less than 40 degrees.
  • psgpsg Posts: 72
    I'll have to pay closer attention. The A/C ran fine yesterday. My current thinking is it is an intermittent problem. :-(

    BTW, I'm on my second A/C fan motor. The first one self-destructed just before a trip to Florida. Apparently, a couple of the tabs that hold the fan motor in it's housing had broken. The fan dropped down and started rubbing the vent housing.

  • z71billz71bill Posts: 2,000
    If you have the auto climate control feature activated it will normally select "outside air" if you manually switch over to "recirc" it will make a big difference in the cooling.

    When you have outside air selected the AC system only has one chance to cool the air. Even the best system will only be able to change the air temp by about 20 degrees. If the outside temp is 95 degrees you will get 75 degree air. If you select recirc it keeps running the same air through the system, each time it lowers it by 15-20 degrees, until of course it reaches the temp of your evaporator.

    If this does not solve your problem - then you have something wrong with your system.
  • psgpsg Posts: 72
    Duh! Of course, that will make a big difference. It's been awhile since I read the owners manual.

  • donaldm1donaldm1 Posts: 19
    2002 HD seems to be developing a rattle in the steering system. You can feel it on washboard and on pavement going slow around slight turns. Steering seems tight, just a rattle coming up to the wheel. Anyone else experience this?
  • noobie1noobie1 Posts: 326
    The problem is very common with this truck. I had it too. The grease they used in the intermediate steering shaft dries out. Take it in. The fix is quick and easy. I'm told that once it's lubed with the proper grease (GM #1 26098419) it won't recur.

  • donaldm1donaldm1 Posts: 19
    Thanks. Will take it in.
  • dev8dev8 Posts: 2
    has anyone had any problems with a clunking noise
    in drive train.
  • bigfurbigfur Posts: 649
    Almost EVERYONE has had problems with a clunk in their drivetrain. It has something to do with the slip yolk on the drive shaft. Took my 01 in a few weeks ago for it, i mentioned a clunk in the drivetrain and the service writter knew EXACTLY what it was. Course now my clunk has returned so off to the dealer i go again. I also beleive there is a TSB out for this problem, im sure someone in here can repost that for you too.
  • arttartt Posts: 14
    There are two clunks. The driveshaft yoke and this one:

    Info - Driveline Clunk #99-04-20-002A
    Driveline Clunk
    2002 and Prior Light Duty Truck Models
    This bulletin is being revised to add model years. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 99-04-20-002 (Section 04 -- Driveline/Axle).
    The condition described in this bulletin should not be confused with Driveline Stop Clunk, described in Corporate Bulletin Number 964101R (Chevrolet 92-265-7A, GMC Truck 91-4A-77, Oldsmobile 47-71-20A, GM of Canada 93-4A-100) or Bump/Clunk Upon Acceleration, described in Corporate Bulletin Number 99-04-21-004.
    Some owners of light duty trucks equipped with automatic transmissions may comment that the vehicle exhibits a clunk noise when shifting between Park and Drive, Park and Reverse, or Drive and Reverse.
    Similarly, owners of vehicles equipped with automatic or manual transmissions may comment that the vehicle exhibits a clunk noise while driving when the accelerator is quickly depressed and then released.
    Whenever there are two or more gears interacting with one another, there must be a certain amount of clearance between those gears in order for the gears to operate properly. This clearance or freeplay (also known as lash) can translate into a clunk noise whenever the gear is loaded and unloaded quickly, or whenever the direction of rotation is reversed. The more gears you have in a system, the more freeplay the total system will have.
    The clunk noise that owners sometimes hear may be the result of a buildup of freeplay (lash) between the components in the driveline.
    For example, the potential for a driveline clunk would be greater in a 4-wheel drive or all-wheel drive vehicle than a 2-wheel drive vehicle. This is because in addition to the freeplay from the rear axle gears, the universal joints, and the transmission (common to both vehicles), the 4-wheel drive transfer case gears (and their associated clearances) add additional freeplay to the driveline.
    In service, dealers are discouraged from attempting to repair driveline clunk conditions for the following reasons:
     Comments of driveline clunk are almost never the result of one individual component with excessive lash, but rather the result of the added affect of freeplay (or lash) present in all of the driveline components. Because all of the components in the driveline have a certain amount of lash by design, changing driveline components may not result in a satisfactory lash reduction.
     While some owners may find the clunk noise objectionable, this will not adversely affect durability or performance.
    © Copyright General Motors Corporation. All Rights Reserved.
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