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Climate Control Problems (Air Conditioning, Heat) - All Cars

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Comments

  • andys120andys120 Loudon NHPosts: 16,628
    there's a fault in the fan mechanism that you can only here when it's turning max rpm.

    2000 BMW 528i, 2001 BMW 330CiC

  • cutehumorcutehumor Posts: 137
    does anyone know where this a/c pressure switch is located on this car? car was blowing hot air. took to shop and mechanic said there was no leak, refrigerant full, that a/c pressure switch was loose. he tightened it and the car blew cold air for two weeks. now it's blowing hot air again. if someone can pinpoint it out to me so I can tighten it, I'd appreciate it. I've searched the net long and hard and have gotten no responses. this doesn't seem like a common part sold in auto parts store, but I found a pic of it. referred as a/c refrigerant pressure sensor. http://198.208.187.182/internet/PartImage.jsp?mfgname=ACDELCO&amp- ;prodlinecd=15&acpartnbr=15-5884
  • joblo1942joblo1942 Posts: 1
    My A/C does not work all the time,and when it does it doesn't work past 3 on the fan switch.I can see the A/C light switches on and off.It won't take anymore refigerant.
  • I don't know much about A/C... hence the post.

    I'm looking at an E150 van that is in GREAT shape except for it's A/C. The seller was surprised when it didn't work on a test drive. He took it to his usual repairman who found the compressor to be in good shape no leaks in the system. The mechanic told him that the thing needed a recharge because the (refrigerant?) was only at 50%. So they recharged it and now it seems to be working just fine.

    so I'm assuming that what leaked must've been freon. But how could it get out of a closed system if there are no leaks?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,883
    Oh, they all leak to some extent. Probably his "wand" didn't pick up a leak because it was so slight. If you're going to recharge, it's best to replace the "O" rings in the compressor hoses and wherever else you can easily get to the various seals.

    MODERATOR

  • Can someone advise if there is a shop in or near West LA that still carries R-12 refrigerant? I'm trying to locate some R-12 for a 1987 car that needs a recharge.

    The A/C on this vehicle has never been recharged. Notwithstanding the fact that it's a 17+ year old GM car, with 86,000 miles, it's possible that it will hold a charge, in which case it would probably be more cost effective to pay the high price for R-12 than to convert to R-134 refrigerant, particularly since this car may be nearing the end of its useful life.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,883
    It's strange, I keep hearing about R12 being hard to get but I find it everywhere without trouble in the San Francisco Bay Area. Why don't you contact one of the many "classic car dealers" in the LA area (Yellow Pages? Internet Search?) and ask them where they are getting their R12. I'm sure they aren't converting 1955 Cadillacs to R134.

    MODERATOR

  • burdawgburdawg Posts: 1,524
    I thought it was illegal to sell R12 to anyone without an EPA license. I don't see it anywhere in Southern Cal. area, but the "replacements" are easy to find, along with R134.
    You can get R12 from Ebay sources which state that an EPA license is required, but mostly don't bother to check.
    There's still a large supply of R12 available and will be for the foreseeable future.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,883
    Well either all the shops I know have licenses or they are all illegal, I don't know. But it's incredibly easy to find. I'm just surprised anyone's having trouble unless L.A. is really tougher on this than the SF Bay Area, which seems unlikely since we now require smog tests on a dyno.

    MODERATOR

  • rikoriko Posts: 1
    AC is not blowing cold air. I have checked and there is both freon and pressure in the system. The compressor is not kicking in because it is not getting power. When a current is connected to it from the positive post of the battery it comes on. Someone mentioned it could be a bad low pressure switch. any other ideas out there?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,883
    Could be low on freon even if there's some in the system.

    MODERATOR

  • konekone Posts: 19
    97 nissan pathfinder with auto climate control. 1) auto climate control does not work at all, it's all hot or all cold regardless of the temp setting. 2) When using manually, hot/cold dial does not control temp correctly. when dial is completely turned to cold (blue), it's all cold as it should be but all i have to do is turn it 2 notches towards red (still well within all blue area) and the heat comes on full blast. it's not tempered with any cold. so basically i have 2 notches at all cold or all the other nothces at all hot. i'm not concerned with spending a lot of $ to get the auto climate control working but i would like to at least get manual to work.

    Any ideas? Thanks.
  • I was wondering what could be the problem with my heat. When I first turn the heat on it blows out hot air but then it turns cool (not cold). I was wondering if I would just need a new thermostat because my temp does not go up to the half way mark since I had the radiator replaced?

     

    Or could it be the heater core?

     

    Thanks!
  • swschradswschrad Posts: 2,171
    if the radiator was somewhat clogged before replacement, I would expect the temp to be lower on the car. from jiggling things around, enough junk could have been kicked up (especially if the old coolant was reused out of the bucket) to gunk the thermostat. I'd replace it just out of spite, they're cheap parts, with an OEM. use a new gasket. pour the coolant you had to drain slowly into another bucket, or through cheesecloth, and if there was gunk in it, flush and refill the whole system BEFORE you replace the stat.

     

    if issues continue, scan the engine to insure you are in the correct temperature range with a scantool... you should be able to get the operating temperature with anything more advanced than a test light.

     

    cycle the lever for the coolant valve to the heater core a few times by hand to kick any junk loose in it.

     

    if you're still having issues, and they aren't issues of the blower motor stops but the air turning cold, you have a vacuum switch, vacuum motor, and/or electronic controller problem. a hand vacuum pump with gauge can really save you tons of time chasing that down.

     

    but so can looking over the vacuum lines, and replacing anything that doesn't want to stay on, or has a flaky-looking end.

     

    you didn't mention what car this is on, nor did your profile... but there are lots of recent stratus posts up there. some GMs in the 90s had issues with the electronic heater controller, to the tune of some $300 bucks a time.

     

    if you're GETTING heat at any point, and not puddles of water as well or steam on the windshield, the core is probably not an issue. flushing the radiator system properly would also take out rust flakes in the core that might be blocking a tube or the outlet pipe, if you haven't done that in 50 years on the car. but I wouldn't suspect crud swirling if you have clean coolant.
  • i'm having problems with water leaking but can't find where it's coming from and the heater is not working it's a 2002 altima
  • pipebendpipebend Posts: 1
    I have a 1995 Ford Econoline 150 van, the heater works but the air conditioner does not. I had it worked on before leaving Pa. for Florida so i didn't notice that the air didn't work until i got into Florida Does it work on a vacuum?I was thinking that maybe they didn't put the vacuum hose back on.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,883
    Have your cooling system "pressure tested". That'll find the leak.

    MODERATOR

  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,883
    first thing you have to determine:

    1. Is the A/C compressor switching on (engaging its clutch) when you activate the A/C controls?

    If YES, go to:

    2. check the freon level

    if GOOD, then:

    have the ducting doors checked for, as you say, possible vacuum leaks or cable problems.

    If NO compressor engagement, you either have:

    1. a bad AC clutch
    2. no freon
    3. blown fuse in AC compressor clutch circuit

    If AC clutch works, you have freon, and all ducting is working, and you still have no cold air, it's probably an expansion valve problem.

    MODERATOR

  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,883
    first thing you have to determine:

    1. Is the A/C compressor switching on (engaging its clutch) when you activate the A/C controls?

    If YES, go to:

    2. check the freon level

    if GOOD, then:

    have the ducting doors checked for, as you say, possible vacuum leaks or cable problems.

    If NO compressor engagement, you either have:

    1. a bad AC clutch
    2. no freon
    3. blown fuse in AC compressor clutch circuit

    If AC clutch works, you have freon, and all ducting is working, and you still have no cold air, it's probably an expansion valve problem.

    MODERATOR

  • moneypitmoneypit Posts: 1
    Air continues to come out of the air vents when either the heater or the A/C is turned off. Could this be a plenum door that isn't closing due to either a vacuum leak or a defective blower switch, or????
  • largolargo Posts: 1
    The heater, a/c and blower work most of the time. But, at times the heat or a/c stop blowing from the ductwork. The blower is still working and changes speeds but hardly any air exits the dash. The dealer said it was a vacuum problem and supposedly fixed it. A week and half later air stopped exiting the dash and later that night started working again. I took it back in and the dealer said the car just needed to warm up. The car was driven 90 miles and the windows iced up even though the heater was blowing on high, but no air was coming out. I took it in a 3rd time (it's a charm) and they told me they would have to take out the dash and that would cost at least $900 and up to $1400, depending on what they ran into. Is the dealer missing something or do I need a new car?
  • MY 97 BMW 3 SERIES A/C CAME ON BY ITSELF I ATTEMPTED TO TURN IT OFF AND THE SCREEN WAS BARLEY LIT. THE LIGHTS ON THE SCREEN WENT OFF AND ALL THE CONTROLS DID NOT WORK HEAT,DEFROST & A/C ETC.. ALL THOUGH THE A/C KEPT RUNNING. IT DID THIS FOR SEVERAL TRIPS AND THEN SUDDENLY WORKED AGAIN. IT HAS DONE THIS SEVERAL TIMES. ANY IDEAS? THANKS!
  • jmaxejmaxe Posts: 198
    I too have a slow freon leak in my 2000 Jimmy. Have had it recharged twice in 9 months and no leak has been found. However ever since the latest recharge I am hearing a distinctive gurgling sound from inside the dash, usually when I accelerate. It sounds exactly like bubbling running water. Could this have something to do with the A/C system ?
  • vhanveyvhanvey Posts: 1
    My 93 Crwn Vic with 63k miles has developed a problem over the last year whereas occasionally, regardless of the outside temperature or the setting on the Warmer-Cooler slide control on the htr/ac, unbearable heat comes thru the heat/ac/defrost vents. The only recourse is to move the heat/ac/defrost control to OFF. When the car is restarted, the heater/ac may or may not function properly. The local Ford dealer's service department GUESSES that a valve and control in the dash needs replacing at a cost of $856 due to the labor to take out part of the dash. I'm not thrilled about paying that much, and certainly not happy about the prospect that it might not be the problem. Any Input would be appreciated.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,883
    Let me ask some experts about that.

    Shifty the Host

    MODERATOR

  • tmaceytmacey Posts: 1
    I have a 95 Taurus GL Wagon. Can someone tell me where to get a good electrical schematic? I lost the Flash to Pass function the Underhood light and Temp Control all at the same time. I have a blown fuse, number escapes me at the moment. I need a schematic to trace the location of the fault.
  • auddie13auddie13 Posts: 2
    Hi, i have a 1993 buick lesabre,my problem is with my a/c, when my car is in idle the a/c works,but when i drive it ,it gets hot air,the cold air seems to disappear. What can be causing this. please help
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,883
    low freon or possibly a bad expansion valve.

    MODERATOR

  • Recently my car ('97 cavalier LS) has started making a clicking noise whenever the fan is running (either with or without A/C). The clicking noise changes in frequency according to fan speed. Is this possibly a worn bearing in the fan?

    Thanks in advance.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,883
    Yep, that's a good guess...the fan blades are moving in and out with car acceleration or braking because the shaft is loose on the bearing.

    MODERATOR

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