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Climate Control Problems (Air Conditioning, Heat) - All Cars



  • koby01koby01 Posts: 2
    01 Navigator- ac stopped working. heater and fan seems to be working correctly. Noticed that AC pump is not engaging when the ac is on.. need help w/ troubleshooting. were do I start?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 46,420
    Get a test light and see if you get current to the AC clutch at the compressor when you turn on the AC switch on the dash---ENGINE NOT RUNNING!!!!

    If you don't, you could be low on freon, and there is a pressure switch that prevents AC clutch engagement. You can often by-pass this switch and see if the AC clutch engages. Where this switch is on your car I haven't a clue.

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  • dsm1mdhdsm1mdh Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 Bonneville and my A/C compressor seized. In addition to the compressor, what other parts should I replace?
  • kenz55kenz55 Posts: 1
    The clutch on my compressor is only running for 1 to 2 seconds for every 10 to 15 seconds that ac in on. At first it didn't work at all, then I checked the level and the gauge read 0. I put in only about 2 ounces of r134 and the gauge went up to about 35 lbs. of pressure and that is when the compressor clutch started working the way I described.
    Is there anyone out there who can offer me some advice or a solution?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 46,420
    If you had a seizure of the compressor, you may have debris in the system and this will create havoc with your new compressor. I'm afraid you're going to have to inspect the a/c lines and if you see debris in the little filter screens where the lines hook up to the return side of the compressor, or if you flush the hoses and debris comes out, you have to replace just about everything or at least take it out and clean it out. Minimum would be a complete cleaning and a new dryer and expansion valve.

    You might get lucky but you have to check for debris from the seized compressor or you'll be buying another one in a few weeks. You MUST get this metallic debris out of the system.

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  • when i turn on the air in my jeep... first... it makes this whitsling sound for a few seconds (when i put it on high) and then it will stop... and sometimes (only when i have the a/c blowing...if i roll down the windows, and hit the gas, it makes this high-pitched sqealing sound... and after all that... it will blow cold for a minute or two and then blow hot. any advise???
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 46,420
    First think I'd do is check for how much freon you have in the system.

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  • The AC/Heater fan in the cabin will only blow on it's highest setting - the first 3 settings don't work at all. First thing I will do will be to check the fuse - is this reasonable that the highest setting would work but no other setting and is fuse replacement the first option I should check?
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    It's usually the blower motor resistor.
  • burdawgburdawg Posts: 1,524
    I have to agree, it's most likely the blower motor resistor assembly. I don't know for sure where it is on a Caravan, but it's a good guess that it's in the plenum somewhere before the heater core, so the incoming air can pass over the resistors (or resistive elements usually these days) and keep them cool when operating a lower speeds. When you have the fan set at max speed typically the DC power is connected directly to the fan via a relay and the resistor assembly is mostly out of the circuit.
    It's a slim possibility that it's the fan switch itself, but remote since all three of the lower positions don't work.
  • jlozanojlozano Posts: 1
    I have a 98 Jeep GC as well. 2 inexpensive solutions. First you can drill the beam on the firewall. drill about 4 inches from the firewall. Drill another small hole to shine a light . Now you can try to unclog with a wire. Second choice is to drill a small hole on the inside on the drain housing. Try a small hole that can help you push the clog out of the drain. When finished seal the hole.

    Jorge Lozano

  • onewayoneway Posts: 2
    Tonight the buttons in my T & C went dead. I could not use the rear wiper, defroster, air re-circ, or compressor for AC. Also, I could not change the air flow face to feet to front defroster. Anyine have any clue what's up? I am open to all replies in posting & e-mail. My e-mail address is Thanks!

  • andys120andys120 Loudon NHPosts: 16,823
    Check your fuses, it sounds like an entire circuit went dead.

    2000 BMW 528i, 2001 BMW 330CiC

  • smilfrordsmilfrord Posts: 1
    hello friends,

    need help, i have a beautiful, clean 1993 buick lesabre, the problem is the vent selection which blows air at face level dose not function. when engaged, no air hot or cold comes out of this area, all other vent selections operate fine. any ideals?

    thank you
  • Our 2005 Nissan Quest has had A/C problems from day 2 and Nissan has tried to remedy the situation. The first time we were told that the freon was improperly filled(air pressure not level...moisture in the line?) This was causing the A/C to constantly hiss and then it stopped cooling. Now we have the same problem. After the repairs it worked great for a week (38degree) air. Now, it is acting up again. I have contacted Nissan again and am awaiting their call. I was wondering if anyone out there is experiencing the same problems. I love my van and I hope this is a minor nuisance that can be fixed "permanently". I will post their remedy, if any, once they do something about it. The van is only 7 months old.

  • andys120andys120 Loudon NHPosts: 16,823
    your Freon was improperly filled, find another repair facility. It is illegal to use Freon in a 2005 automobile.

    2000 BMW 528i, 2001 BMW 330CiC

  • 1998 Blazer. No a/c this spring (did not use all winter). Had it recharged and dye put in. Re-check a week later showed a leak in the back of the compressor. My mechanic estimated $800 to fix. Is replacing the compressor something I could do myself without too much trouble and basic tools? Do I need to replace the accumulator also?

    The plan right now is to see how long the current charge lasts (i.e. how slow the leak is) and then either ditch the truck or fix the a/c cheap.

    Thanks in advance.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 46,420
    The problem is how you will capture the AC that is in the system. You can't just let it out into the air as that is dangerous to you and us. If your shop can safely drain it, then yeah you could probably do the compressor, but I'd have the shop hook up the lines and recharge the system.

    Yes you should probably replace the accumulator and the drier if the system is open and exposed for more than a couple of hours. If you can close it up really fast you might get lucky, but usually the dessicant gets saturated with moisture from outside air and is ruined.

    If you remove the compressor and look into the ports (where the hoses go) and you see debris and bits of metal, then you have to flush the entire AC system and also replace the expansion valve.

    Some people will tell you that you can replace the shaft seal in the compressor (probably the source of your leak) but the problem here is that the seal might have gone out for reasons related to compressor wear, --- so the seal won't last.

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  • beatonbeaton Posts: 1
    My 1999 Plym Grand Voyager (120,000+ miles) has a plugged a/c in the front (but not the back). The Dealership also said the evaporator needs to be replaced. Cost:$1,200! Does this seem reasonable? We service the van regularly there due to the many hiway miles we put on it annualy.

    What causes the a/c to plug in one spot and not in another? Should they be checking that as part of the regular maintenance? If not, how often should we be checking it?

  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 46,420
    depends on whether your car uses two evaporators or not for front and rear air heat exchange. But if your system has only one evaporator, and if indeed you get ice cold AC in the rear, then the dealer's diagnosis makes no sense.

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  • kramer3kramer3 Posts: 2
    I have a 98 dodge dakota with 74,000 mi. on it. The a.c. stopped blowing cold air so I added a can of 134a. It still will not blow cold air. The compressor cycles on & off & with a gague installed on the low side the pressiure drops form approx 40 p.s.i. to approx. 15 p.s.i. when the compressor clutch cycles on. Is this normal? Should the clutch be cycling on & off? Also, it is not leaking water from the drain, but I am not getting any water in the cab. i don't think i have a leak as I added some dye, & the system seems to be holding what I put in. Any ideas?
  • chopper23chopper23 Posts: 1
    When I started the Van today, with A/C on, the air was only blowing out of the Defrost and Floor ports. I cannot get the air to come out of the dashboard vents. No matter what position I put the selector in, the air just comes out of the two ports mentioned. Any ideas as to cause/fix?
  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H Posts: 10,930
    chopper23, can you get air to come out of just one or the other, or is it defrost AND floor together, all the time. In other words, can you change the setting at all? If not, your switch may be stuck.

    If you can get the defrost/floor to turn off, or operate one at a time, then it may be that you have a blocked vent. I'm not an expert at all, so maybe some members who ARE will have better advice.

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  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H Posts: 10,930
    It sounds like your problem is associated with the electrical system, and isn't specific to your climate control, so I've moved your post here:
    rebellady1964, "Electronic Gremlins: Electrical Problems That Are Driving You Crazy" #312, 15 May 2005 8:22 am

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  • dogstardogstar Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 Ford Windstar with no heat, probably thermostat, but also, when sliding the temp towards heat, it makes a slow, steady "flapping" sound, almost like a wounded bird trying to get out. I pulled the glove compartment door out and looked behind the air controls and can see a small, thin white 'box' with a white gear-like dowel coming out of it and into the plastic 'wall' behind it...beyond what I can see. It is loudest when sliding the temp control towards heat, and not as loud toward cool. The dowel also turns to the right - clockwise - towards heat and counterclockwise toward cool. Any idea what is making this noise and does it have anything to do with no heat? Thanks for any and ALL your help.
  • andys120andys120 Loudon NHPosts: 16,823

    2000 BMW 528i, 2001 BMW 330CiC

  • Purchased a new 2005 Reno just a few months ago. The a/c even though after running for an hour, comes out of the vents at about 50 degrees as Suzuki says is spec correct. But ill be damned if the car interior ever gets even cool, unless its a CLOUDy day under 80 degrees. the dealer has recharged the system, checked all the hoses etc and tells me" well ya cant compare it to other cars" whats THAt supposed to mean??DUH!! Ive had the windows tinted 30 percent grade to help, but to no avail. i HAve tried VERYTHINg in the owners manual and then some I called SUZUKI in Brea and they cant help me. whats up/ LOusy a/c? DAWOO parts ? crappy insulation?? HELP!!!! maybe i should try another DEALER???? it does have a 3 year 36000 mile warrenty
  • sailor5sailor5 Posts: 1
    My 16yo son lives 2000 miles away and I am trying to resolve a problem long distance. His AC works sometimes and not sometimes. It is cold when it works. He took it to a repair place and they said it is shorting out and why it is intermittent. The only electrical I am aware of with the compressor is the clutch, so I assume the clutch is not always working due to some electrical open most likely in the clutch. The question is to save me trying to explain more than I think I can, can the clutch just be removed and replaced thus saving removing hoses, R134 etc? I know there is also a pressure relay that will cut the clutch out on low pressure. I am not sure what this repair shop checked but I am a bit skeptical.
  • auto850auto850 Posts: 2
    hey I have the same deal happening to me.............have you figured anything out yet?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 46,420
    The diagnosis makes no sense. Take it to another shop. Clutches don't really "short out". They either work or they don't. If the clutch is "cycling", then it is being shut on and off for a reason that is probably not purely electrical in nature. That shop, I think, is trying to fix the symptom but not the disease, which is probably low freon or a faulty component in the system such as a bad temperature sensor.

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