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Ford Escort ZX2

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  • Hey, I put my car in overdrive anyway. Or do you mean that if I feel a power loss(which usually happens when I hear the noise), that I should put it in a lower gear? And what do you mean when you say "brake trq."? Also, I think that I hear the noise a lot more when my a/c is on.
  • ciannacianna Posts: 1
    In August my 1998 ZX2 (140k), which I have had for 2yrs started making a loud "valve-like" noise - sounds like a diesel engine. The garage I took it to said that the timing was okay and that the head was getting oil. They thought that the cams were going bad and wanted to put on a reman head. They said that the dual overhead cams wear faster. They called the Ford garage, which comfirmed their theory. A co-worker of mine who used to operate a garage said that the cams shouldn't wear out that soon. He also thought that the oil pressure seemed low. One of our theories is that the oil pump is weak and is not getting sufficient oil up to the head. Because of this problem and others, I've parked the car, bought another car, and put the ZX2 up for sale. :cry: I hope you have better luck!
  • milguymilguy Posts: 4
    I have two electrical issues: 1, the heater fan switch has a mind of its own. It turns on and off whenever it wants to. There is no rim or reason, AC on, heat on, doesn’t matter. It does seem to stop working at the most inopportune time. 2, the windshield washer, one day it was working the next it stopped. I have checked all the fuses, made sure the connections were tight, clean on all of them. It’s not the windshield wash the pump, I tried the pump direct and it works. I REALLY don’t want to rip the steering wheel column apart to get to the switch to test it there first. The blower switch, same thing, checked all fuses and connection. Any ideas suggestions?
  • mdkingmdking Posts: 2
    i got an 02 zx2 with 50k miles on it. its completely stock and im hoping to mod it. i was wondering what you guys put on your engines and stuff. im really just looking for power. i dont have a huge budget, so anything will help. thanks.
  • remowusremowus Posts: 40
    What year is it and how many miles?
  • remowusremowus Posts: 40
    if you have replace the thermostat , then you need to check the gauge itself. I assume you have flushed the cooling systems and replaced the fluid also?
  • milguymilguy Posts: 4
    It's a 2003, with 86,000+
  • Definitely get a cold-air intake, which you can find on e-bay for $40 plus shipping which currently is about $20.
    Replacing the exhaust headers with performance ones will help greatly also, and the cheapest I've found(and I am also currently looking for some) run about $140-$160 on e-bay, and that includes shipping. If you can afford it, I would go ahead and replace the entire exhaust system.
  • I have a 2000 zx2-automatic trans. Almost every time I start my car and I put it in reverse it jolts into gear(and no i'm not on an incline). I got around this by 1st putting the car in drive, to bring the RPM's down to about 1000, put it in reverse, and it runs smoothly. But then, sometimes when I am in city traffic(stop and go), and I have to brake hard but then I immediately let off the brake and depress the gas pedal(i.e.: stop and go), the car doesn't respond for a sec, then it jolts into gear.
    WHAT IS WRONG?? Is my car trying to tell me something? Please help me.
  • gutugutu Posts: 1
    I have a 1998 FORD ESCORT ZX2 and I have problem with light "check engine sun". I already changed the spark-plug, ignition wires and ignition coil........... and the light is still there, sometime flashing for a time (1-2 min) and stop flashing (but the light is still there) and sometime is off and reappear after some time.
    I make 31 mile on galon and I don't know if the light is real massage or it is wrong massage.
    Somebody can help me?
    PLEASE.
  • izaclown1izaclown1 Posts: 116
    Our 98 started that and the tranny seized up. $2500 for a rebuilt one since it is a Mazda drive train. There may be some other explanation.
  • mdkingmdking Posts: 2
    a cold air was the first thing i looked at. i found a k and n for 175 on auto anything. i trust it more than ebay. what do you think? ill look at a new exhaust. what about new cam shafts or headers? would it be worth it? thanks.
  • 2000zx22000zx2 Posts: 10
    Does anybody happen to know what the little black box under the drivers seat is? The wires seem to lead to the radio but im not sure? Anybody got a clue?
    :confuse:
  • stunna2stunna2 Posts: 13
    It's a factory amp for your stereo.
  • stunna2stunna2 Posts: 13
    Brake trq. is when you have your foot on the brake and use your other foot to rev your car up. When you take off let your foot of the brake and accelerate the gas. This will give you somewhat of a launch. Yeah my a/c doesn't work when I stop, the car idles really high and wants to die, but mine doesn't make any engine gargiling.
  • oh sweet! Do you know how to re wire it into a bigger amp without having to buy a new deck, adapter, and all that mess?
  • How does a cold air intake help?
    And how much performance increase can you expect with new headers?
  • I bought my cold air intake on e-bay from an e-bay store (which usually get their supplies as overstock from larger companies like k&n) for $40. I have had it for 2 years now and for over 55,000 miles with NO problems. K & N is bs in that they charge way too much for some bent aluminum and a filter.
    As far as headers, I haven't gotten any yet, but considering that my stock ones are maybe 1 1/2" and go from 4 pipes to 1 in 4" of coming out of the block and new performance ones on e-bay are 2 to 2 1/2" and are 4-2-1 over 3-4 feet(not to mention replacing the very restricting catalytic converter).......they are well worth $150.
    P.S: Trust e-bay because most of the stores have a guarantee and Pay-pal guarantees their guarantees.
  • Hi, a cold air intake helps a lot b/c it is aluminum which allows air to travel faster around the smooth turns, it gets much colder air which is the optimum for the combustion process, it replaces the stock intake pipe(which at the smallest is about 1 1/2") with a 3" pipe, and it looks cooler. Plus you have a reusable filter which you can clean.
    Header also help a lot b/c they replace the very restrictive stock headers and catalytic converter with at least an inch wider, smoother, cooler looking pipe. Probably anywhere from 10 to 15 hp increase I'd say.
  • Can the front wheel bearings on a ZX2 be changed without a press and "special tools?
    In Chilton's it looks like you have to remove the hub, knuckle and bearing assy. then press out the hub before accessing the bearing.
  • From what I can remeber, it was a few years ago, I took the hub off and then placed a large socket on the bearing and hammered it out. I tried the same to get it back in, and had no luck. I ended up taking up to work and using a shop press to press the new one in. IF you run into this problem some times parts stores will have a press in the back room, if not take it to a machine shop or tool and die shop and they could do it for 10 or 20 bucks I would think.
  • Thanks!
    I just bought this little car as a "Maui Cruiser" for $1,600, but I'm really starting to like it, and thinking a few well placed rehab dollars could make it a really fun ride.
  • I need to get my parts number of a "wide open throttle cutoff" for my 2000 ford escort zx2. Any idea where this part is and/or what it looks like?
  • Hi, my 2000 zx2 has 125,000 miles on it and 2 months ago the "check engine" light came on for the first time since I got it at 80K miles. Autozone's computer said it was my o2 sensor, so I changed it and the light went off. Then I noticed out of nowhere that my coolant reservoir was completely empty, so I filled it up. My car has never leaked or anything so I had no idea how this happened, until I found a few weeks ago that the big water tube from the radiator to the engine block, where it connected to the engine, was wet with anti-freeze residue where the temp. sensor connected to the tube. And now the check engine light is back on and my temperature gauge is not working and is stuck between "cold" and "hot", even when the engine is cold as ice. Someone told me that my head gasket may be beginning to warp which could cause a loss of pressure in the water tube and mess up the o2 sensor. HELP PLEASE!!!
  • I have a 2001 ZX2 with 80K that I have owned since new. Only since last month have I noticed some odd noises coming from the car. When I hit 40 mph, there is a very odd rubbing/humming noise that comes from the right side of the car. I'm thinking it just must be the tread from my Michelin Harmony tires, since the noise is still present, though far less pronounced, at lower speeds. However.....I also notice that when I am driving from 40 mph on up, when I let off the gas the car slows down too fast.......it is almost as though I am driving with the overdrive disengaged, though that is not the case. The car drives fine otherwise, and I have had no mechanical problems to speak of in the 7 years I have owned it.

    I have taken the car into CarX who couldn't figure out what the problem was, though they did note a slightly out-of-round rim. We swapped rims out and it didn't solve the problem. They also thought it could be the wheel bearings.....I took the car to Ford for a more definitive answer. They could find nothing wrong, other than bad wheel bearings on the driver front-side wheel (which is NOT where all the noise is coming from, and definitely would not cause the massive slow-down in driving at faster speeds). I hope I'm not looking at a transmission issue....?
  • THis my 1st time in a forum.I own a 2002 ZX2 with 33,200 miles. This car has
    has spent basically 3 1/2 years of it's life in the shop.

    THe transmission was completely re-done,know for the last 1 1/2 years 5th will fail to stay in gear at anytime.

    My question is: Has this model allways been defective ?
  • I am at a complete loss....no one ..not even the folks atmy local ford dealer have any ideas...anyone out there who may know??? thanks in advance for your help!!

    Symptoms: 1) Temperature gauge constantly goes back and forth from cold to extremely over heating.

    2) The heater produces no heat.



    Procedures:

    Flushed heater core (3 times)

    Flushed radiator hoses

    Flushed radiator

    New thermostat

    New radiator cap

    New Radiator

    New radiator hoses

    New thermostat

    Tested for hole in head gasket – test negative

    Heater core flushed again, this time at the dealer who explained to my mechanic that the heater core in the 2000 Ford Escort is positioned above the radiator and requires a special device to flush it properly.

    After each procedure, the heat and temperature worked for a period of 20 to 100 miles, the latter distance with the most recent procedure (heater core flushed by Ford dealer); however, while the heat worked and the temperature gauge did not fluctuate so dramatically, it did continually fluctuate between cold and warm, and the temperature level fluctuated as well, but never quit working until yesterday afternoon. This morning, the car produced no heat and the gauge fluctuated from hot to cold.
  • remowusremowus Posts: 40
    The fluctuating gauge problem may be a bad temp gauge or sensor. You could replace those. Won't help the heat though. I had to replace the heater motor on my 00zx2 when I had problems. That seemed to take care of everything. Since you've already taken everything else out, you might try this.
  • korzokorzo Posts: 5
    I have the same problem with my 1998 ZX2 stuck in park and am wondering if you would explain how you did the manual override with the screwdriver? Thanks.
  • korzokorzo Posts: 5
    I have an automatic 1998 ZX2 and the shifter is stuck in park. The button on the shfter doesn't depress so the shifter won't move. The brake lights go on.

    Someone else said they did a manual override it with a screwdriver and was wondering what that might be and if it might work in this case. Thanks.
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