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Ford Escort ZX2



  • mark58mark58 Posts: 4
    Okay, I got the screech fixed, but now the air conditioner isn't working. I'm not hearing the compressor kick in. This just happened suddenly--it worked fine last week. Before I take it in, what might the problem be, besides the compressor being completely shot? I'm ignorant when it comes to auto mechanics, so any guidance is appreciated here. Thanks.
  • remowusremowus Posts: 40
    I have the same problem . I checked all the connections,
    battery,ground etc. and everything looks good and tight.
    My next guess is the belt tensioner may need to be tensioned. I have a 2000 zx by the way .
  • "Also, so some of you know, I've been told by 6 differant tire shops in town that you can NOT go any bigger than 185/60/R14 tires on these ZX2's because of front shock tower clearance"

    Bull! I have had my 99zx2 since Jan. '99. At my first tire replacement (prob within 1 year;) went up to 195/60/R14 on the five-star 'cool' wheels. If you have the swirl in the wheel design, I suspect that would could go wider, but be ready to spring for 50 series tires. The 60 and 50 are for a ratio of tread-width to side-wall height.

    Short version: Go wider, buth maintain overall tire radius.

    The shops have to recommend that you only use the factory size tire, cause if they tell you to change it and you lose-control-mow-down-eight-people one day, they don't want anything to do with the blame.

    BTW I have had the same set of Yokohama's on my zx2 for 4.5 years and they also have terrific traction. You usually lose one of the benefits to get the other, but not with these.
  • swedeeswedee Posts: 1
    There is a safety device in your brake that is broken. You can simply have it removed or replaced. This happened to me. I have a ZX2 as well. There is a little button-looking removable piece on the base of the gear shift (not sure how to explain it), if you pop it out and stick a metal rod in there the safety device should be dissabled. good luck. Hey do you have any A/C problems? Mine stopped working 2 years ago.
  • My sister has a 99 that has had its difficulties. Currently it is sitting in her driveway because it can only drive a few miles without dying. After waiting half an hour or so, the car will start up and drive for a few more miles. What could be causing this? Could it be the crankshaft position sensor that I hear everyone talking about. I had a similar problem with a Cherokee I had, the crankshaft position sensor was the problem. Thanks for the help.

    I also have a problem with my 2000 zx2. There is a vaccuum hose that runs from the front of the engine to the back and then goes into a 90 degree bend. That bend has cracked before and replaced. But now the hose pops off periodically and causes the car to die every time the car goes to an idle. Has anyone else ever had this problem? My sister also had to replace the bend.
  • I find it odd that so many people here are having so many problems with a ZX2. I must have gotten very lucky. I have had mine for 7+ years, it has 96K miles, and I have fixed two things...the reverse light switch on the transaxle and the battery. No joke, I have yet to replace a lightbulb, or anything else except for tune-up parts. I have heard that some cars are like that though; some are put together on Monday, and it shows. (Or Cinco de Mayo...for us)
  • remowusremowus Posts: 40
    I hope mine was not a Monday car. I reported that my battery light was coming on at about 3 thousand rpm intermittently on monday. That problem seems to have stopped and this morning my tach died. It died an agonizing
    death though. It kept going up to about 2000 rpm's and then it would bounce off the peg. It finally died at about
    8:12 a.m. RIP. This is leading me to believe I have a short somewhere. Any one got an idea where?
  • If I were you, I would be interested in testing out either the camshaft or crankshaft position sensor. One of those (I don't remember which) dictates the tach value (and also optimizes timing, etc.)

    Chilton's manual tells what a volt meter should read for each. If these check out, you may have a wiring problem and I do not envy you. If there is a problem with the cam or crank position sensor, the tach may be the least of your problems in the near future. (Hope it isn't the crank sensor...must remove exhaust manifold first ;( )
  • I have a 1995 ford escort with a 4 speed automatic (E). I have been having shifting problems. After it has warmed up it will not shift to 3rd when leaving a stop sign or, more problematic, entering a freeway via the on ramp. It does not do it all the time and no codes come up at the shop. the car has 158K miles and I just had the transmission serviced. The problem came about before the service and still exists. I have tried manually shifting with no luck. The fluid levels are all good and there seems to be no other problems.
    Any help would be greatly appreciated.
  • i have a 97 escort sedan lx, and if you're referring to the "oil collector hose" that connects the pcv valve at the front to a small input the top of the intake manifold, i had the same problem last weekend...

    i have almost 290000kms on the car and ford wanted around $40CDN for the hose, so instead i just rolled up some aluminum from a pop can, slid that into the end of the 90 degree part so the hose wouldn't implode at the leak anymore (but the hose still functions)...then i duct-taped fine now...

    you might want to check that you put the little spring clamp back on where the hose connects to the intake manifold...or maybe try putting a new hose clamp that you can tighten with a screwdriver over it if the original just isn't doing it anymore...
  • remowusremowus Posts: 40
    I did get it checked out. The battery had a dead cell and the alternator wasn't putting out any juice. The battery was only about a year and a half old from AutoZ.
    Since my other car was out of town I had to get it fixed by my friendly local mechanic. Only 400 balloons.
    But its running good and has recovered the lost power I had noticed. I did'nt know that the fuel injection had a direct connection to the alternator on this. So I learned something too.
  • I picked up my 99 ZX2 in July of 2005. It had quite a few miles on it then, and now I just watched it turn over 104,600. Lately, I've been having a heck of a time with it. I really enjoy this car because it feels like it is a better fit for me than the Beretta I had, and I'd really like to keep it for a while.

    Problem #1: The temp gauge is out of control. It used to be below the C when I would start it, and gradually work its way up to a little left of center once it had warmed up. Well, lately, it hadn't been starting anywhere near the C, and usually began at the middle, sometimes floating back and forth. One day it was getting closer and closer to the red zone, so I took it in because I thought it was going to overheat. Well, after letting it sit for an hour, it never did overheat. Now, it starts at the H line, and is currently resting between the H line and the red zone when I'm driving it. The coolant was just topped off, and didn't help any. The needle just kind of floats around, but mainly stays on the hot side more than anything anymore. This is making me a nervous wreck to drive, but since I'm at school I have no other mode of transportation. I also wondered, since I don't have an owner's manual (and would it even address this anyway) if there is a red light for when it really does overheat, and is that connected to the gauge itself or to something completely different? Has/Is anyone else experiencing this? What is a recommended fix?

    Problem #2: When turning the car on, if I want to turn on the heater/air conditioner, I have to wait until the car has been running for a while, or it will just die. A while as in having driven it a few blocks. Turning on the headlights right after I turn the car on will not kill it, but they will dim and the RPM's will change, and then it will be normal again. The defroster went either way-killed it, or just dimmed the lights and started working. Any answers for that? I've tried skimming the posts, and haven't found anything that's been answered for it, but maybe I missed some. Can anyone help out here?

    I love my car, but even just the temp gauge is making me a nervous wreck driving it! I've already had a couple coil packs changed, and the computer to those when it started doing the same thing the third time. And, I've also had a water pump fixed. The temp gauge had acted up before, but the problem had gone away, but now it's back and worse than ever.
  • I have a 99 zx2. Could you recommend a high-performance/high-flow crank case breather filter?
  • strollerstroller Posts: 3
    I had the same exact problem last month.
    It is a temperature sending unit.
    It costs only $15.00.
  • willnetiwillneti Posts: 1
    Hi my wife has a 98 ford escort zx2,it was running great but now as soon as you push the gas pedal just a little it stars to jerk and the "service engine light on the panel starts to blink"when you release the gas pedal goes back to normal i've change the gas filter,spark plugs but now don't know the next step.
    thank you
  • You wouldn't still have a part number for that temp. sending unit, would you? I sure would appreciate it if you did.
  • strollerstroller Posts: 3
    I'm sorry. I don't have the part number on the temp sending unit. I simply went into my local CAP (Consumer Auto Parts) store and asked for the part.
  • Thanks anyways. I did purchase a crank case breather and that has helped tremendously. It took me a long time to find the correct part number. I've heard it called a "crank case vent oil seperator," "crank case breather," and "crank case breather filter." A Ford dealer wanted $85 for the part. The AutoZone kid had no idea what I was talking about. If he couldn't look it up on the computer, he was lost. Finally, NAPA found the part for me. They had to order it, but it arrived by 1:30 pm the next day. The cost: $9.69. Thank you NAPA!
    I wonder if the temp. sending unit you're talking about is the same part I'm talking about. Where does it sit on the engine?
    The crank case breather was attached to the rear valve cover by a small section of hose. The actual part was about 1/2 the size of a tomato soup can. Another hose leading from the part went into the base of the air filter housing.
  • strollerstroller Posts: 3
    I'm curious as to what problem replacing the crank case oil separator fixed for you?

    While looking at the engine, the temp. sending unit is just below and to the left of the thermostat and just above and to the right of the PCV valve.
  • beisbulbeisbul Posts: 1
    I bought a 99 zx2 about a week and a half ago. It has 48,000 miles on it. It runs fine, but the service engine light has come on. Auto Zone says it is a misfire in cylinders 1 and 4. I have replaced plugs and wires, but no success. Is there anything else that is a fairly easy fix, or should I take it to a mechanic?
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