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Subaru Crew Problems & Solutions

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  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    We had to dig deep into Subaru's press releases to find out about that.

    -juice
  • mrdetailermrdetailer Posts: 1,118
    because the octane is generally higher in Japan and Europe. They seem to run smoother.
  • royallenroyallen Posts: 224
    Though my '95 2.2L manual calls for 87 octane which = regular for flatlanders, in Denver we get 85 and it works just as well. Since octane is a measure of the pressure required for spontaneous combustion, the lower ambient pressure in Denver (and higher altitudes to the west) prevents reaching pressures that would cause detonation with 85 octane. That has saved me some money once I understood the way octane is derived.
  • postmodernpostmodern Posts: 38
    The right side mirror on 5 month old SueBee had a minor altercation yesterday morning with a utility pole just outside my daughter's apt. I (too) carefully parallel parked to avoid a Mercedes (with driver inside) just behind me and as I looked in the left outside mirror, the right mirror housing crunched into the pole at the edge of the curb! The housing is intact and the controls work, but the mirror itself looks like a disco ball. Steph tried to cheer me up as everyone seems to have an altercation sooner or later with either that pole or a nearby tree -- the neighbohood is old and the sidewalk is very narrow. But I'm still bummed out about it -- SueBee is too young to have to undergo cosmetic surgery!

    It seems strange that this topic was discussed within the last 100 posts, but it's comforting to know that I'm not alone. It sounds like my best option is to call an auto glass shop. Is there anything special that I should look out for, or mention to the installer? SueBee has the AWP, so the mirror is heated -- does this make a difference?

    Lyn
  • postmodernpostmodern Posts: 38
    I haven't had much time lately to follow the Crew forums (work and family have kept me busy), but it's Mother's Day and I can do whatever I want, so here I am. Here's another question... Does anyone get Mobil 1 oil changes at their dealer? If so, how much extra were you charged?

    I took SueBee into Curry Surbaru here in Yorktown Heights, NY for her 7500 mile service 2 weeks ago and had them use Mobil 1 rather than dino oil. (We've used Mobil 1 for at least the last 25 years.) My mistake was that I didn't ask what the increased cost would be for the Mobil 1. For years wherever I went for an oil change, from quickie oil/lube places to independent/chain service centers, the additional charge has been $20-25 dollars, so I assumed (silly me) that Curry would do the same. Instead they charged $9.84 a quart extra over the cost of the dino oil -- an additional $49.20!!! When I complained, the service advisor told me that I should expect dealer service prices to be a little higher. The only reduction I could get from him was a $5 deduction for the dino oil. In addition, all under hood fluids were to be checked and replenished if necessary as part of their 7500 mile service. I checked a few days later and the windshield washer reservoir was only 1/2 full, so I doubt that this check was done. At least the tires were rotated. Needless to say, I wasn't a happy Curry camper either when I left the dealership or right now as I'm typing this. I don't have too much trust in the quality of their service dept.

    Does anyone have any opinions (good or bad) about the service depts at Prestige Imports in Pleasantville, Rushneck in Tarrytown, Smith-Cairns in Brewster or Wappingers Subaru in Wappingers? Or can anyone recommend a good independent Subaru mechanic in the general area?

    Thanks!
    Lyn
  • fibber2fibber2 Mid Hudson Valley, NYPosts: 3,733
    Happy Moms day....

    Sorry to hear about the mirror and service problems at Curry. I lost glass years ago on a remote control mirror from a rock thrown up by my mower. But being the stubborn person I am, I cut it from a plate mirror myself and glued it into place. So it is not that hard to get fixed. You can probably determine where the heating element is on your AWP assembly. If it is in the backing plate and still functions, no problem. If it was heater wires on the back of the glass, you will probably have to replace the entire assembly if you want to keep it heated. Do you have the chunks to look at?

    Dealers? I had a lousy time at Greer years ago, but since changing hands (now Wappingers), they seem better behaved. Still, insufficient data...
    I had wonderful treatment at the Ford side of Colonial, but I remember Gregg mentioning that he was not impressed with the Subi side of the shop.

    Lots of luck,

    Steve
  • blaneblane Posts: 2,017
    postmodern:

    If you are determined to keep using Mobil 1 (and paying very dearly for the marginal, if dubious, advantages) why not buy your own by the case at a discount retailer such as COSTCO? The next time you need an oil change bring a few quarts along and tell your mechanic (Curry) to use YOUR oil and to reduce the price of their oil change service by the amount they usually charge for THEIR dino oil. Voila...no arguments or overcharges. You can do this with the oil filter too.
  • fibber2fibber2 Mid Hudson Valley, NYPosts: 3,733
    I kind of skipped over that point. Higher barametric pressure (more oxygen molecules per liter of air) does increase octane requirement. I mentioned damp days are OK with cheap fuel. That is partially because of the moisture content that cools the charge (remember water injection?), and because of the lower barametric pressure typical of rainy days.

    I came to understand the relationship between octane and pressure when I left Dallas and drove to Colorado Springs with my new EFI Datsun in '80. It was OK going up, but taking the low octane fuel back down was tough on the engine.

    That is also why turbo or supercharged engines have their compression lowered, intercoolers to cool the charge, and often require higher octane.

    Steve
  • postmodernpostmodern Posts: 38
    Blane,

    Yes, I could just bring in the Mobil 1 and have them do it (I asked when I paid the bill).

    However, the bigger problem with Curry is the loss of trust that I have in the service dept and that I feel I was ripped off wrt prices. Not adding a 1/2 tank of windshield washer fluid is a small thing, but they were supposed to at least check it as part of the service. They rotated my tires, but I'll bet that the tire pressure wasn't checked (another thing that was also part of the service) -- they were still at 33 lbs when I checked them later in the day (and noone mentioned that they were at a higher then recommended pressure). Overall, a very sloppy visit for which I paid a premium price.

    We may complain about quickie lube places, but whenever I've used their services they have always checked all fluid levels. If I can't trust Curry's service dept with the minor things, how can I trust them when a larger service must be done or SueBee really has a problem? If they gouge me on Mobil 1, how much are they going to overcharge me on brakes, or a water pump, or whatever? I want a dealership or mechanic that I can trust. They don't have to be the cheapest, but I have to feel that I can trust them and get value for my money. It sounds simple, but it's not. It's what makes a few dealerships like Flemington in NJ so highly recommended. And it's why I'm looking for another place to bring SueBee.

    I'll climb off my soapbox now...

    Lyn
  • postmodernpostmodern Posts: 38
    Hi Steve,

    Good to hear from you again! Is it time for another meeting of the East Fishkill chapter of the Subaru Owners Club?

    Most of the glass is still attached to the backing, but the glass is in enough pieces that it looks like a court jester's shirt! Maybe what I should do is turn on the mirror defroster on the way into work tomorrow and see whether some of the moisture dries up. Hopefully SueBee won't blow a fuse!

    Lyn
  • stevekstevek Posts: 362
    Wappingers Subaru is not the greatest, I bought my 2001 Legacy GT there, but under no circumstance go to the Subaru dealer in Brewster (the name escapes me right now).
    They did not know how to align a headlight.
  • fibber2fibber2 Mid Hudson Valley, NYPosts: 3,733
    Ok, Stephen, where do you live?
    I am in Beekman/Poughquag (but Hopewell mailing address). Are you local?

    Steve
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    I pay $45 for a mobil 1 oil change at my local quaker state joint. They've been doing oil changes on my cars for years and actually know what they are doing. Pretty amazing.

    -mike
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Lyn - cracked heated mirror? Does your insurance cover it?

    If not, try that shop you mentioned, but be sure to test the heating element once it's installed and before you pay.

    -juice
  • cassmanducassmandu Posts: 2
    I am thinking of buying a 5 spd 98 Legacy L with 52K miles on it. Can anyone make any recommendations, warnings, play devils advocate, etc...

    I would really appreciate any comments. I want to make sure this is the right move

    Thanks
  • crashton6crashton6 Posts: 245
    The diff on a 4eat auto is separate from the tranny. It is in the tranny housing, but uses it's own fluid GL5 80/90 IIRC. I think your mechanic may be a bit fooled here. My Forester's original tranny fluid was a brown color very similar to the color of gear lube, not red as most all tranny fluids are. Bet that's why he's saying your diff's leaking into the tranny. If it was seems to me it would be reading over full not under. Check your fluid when warm following the instructions in the owners manual. Add some if you need to & have your dealer verify it. As Doug said they won't give a darn what a non dealer mechanic has said.

    Good luck
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Actually, that's a good choice. It should even still have a little powertrain warranty left.

    98 Legacys had the Phase I DOHC engine. Those run on 87 octane and make 165hp, 162lb-ft. It's the same engine in my Forester.

    Do a VIN check with carfax, or call 800-SUBARU3 and ask them for info. The good news is any flaws on Subarus tend to be obvious. Check the engine smoothness, the clutch take-up, the alignment. Listen for axle whine and wheel hub noise. If it rides smoothly and quietly, all those things should be fine.

    -juice
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    he is looking at a 98 Legacy L

    2.2l SOHC 137hp engine. My dad has a 97 legacy L and it's been near flawless in 90K miles. Great car.

    -mike
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Oops, my goof, that's right. The 2000 and later models shared the 2.5l.

    The 2.2l is still relatively torquey and gets good mileage.

    -juice
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    on the highway is what my dad can get with his L.

    -mike
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Wow, my record in the Forester is 30.4mpg, but only once. We'll see how our 2.5l Legacy does, but 24.6mpg with A/C ain't bad.

    -juice
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    My dad's is a slush-box and he makes me look like a snail! :)

    -mike
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    That's right, I forgot it was an automatic. That mileage is great, then.

    -juice
  • cassmanducassmandu Posts: 2
    Thanks for the replies. They gave me some confirmation that I am making the right choice. I am having a mechanic check it out tonight. If it goes well, I will be a proud subaru owner
  • jfljfl Posts: 1,349
    I've seem this asked, but not answered. So here goes. Legacy & Outback Service Manual MY 2000, Section 1.5

    Pad thickness including back metal - mm(in)
    Front Rear
    Standard 17 (0.67) 14 (0.55)
    Service limit 7.5 (0.295) 6.5 (0.256)
    Service limit 1.5 (0.059) 1.5 (0.059)
    w/o back metal

    Brake disc thickness - mm (in)
    Front Rear
    Standard 24 (0.94) 10 (0.39)
    Service limit 22 (0.87) 8.5 (0.335)

    I've double checked them to be sure I didn't make a typo. Please don't flame me if they don't look right.
  • royallenroyallen Posts: 224
    I missed the question. The numbers look accurate to me.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Thanks for looking those up, BTW.

    -juice
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    Ok folks need your input. I'm looking to do the diffy and MT fluids in the XT6, and I'm leaning toward Redline. Anyone out there have any other suggestions or reccomendations? Also which ones in the redline line should I use?

    MT: 70w80 GL-4 or 75w90 GL-4
    Diffy: 75w90NS (90wt) or 75w140NS (140wt) or Shockproof Gear Oil

    These are all from redlineoil.com

    Thanks for the input.

    -mike
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    I think they specify 75w90 for both but I'll let the experts chime in.

    -juice
  • shortlidshortlid Posts: 50
    Ok in the trany put Redline 75W-90NS make sure it is NS or yyou WILL have syncro problems. In the rear diff. you can put regular 75W-90. Anything else will have problems belive me I have tried!!
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