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Subaru Crew Problems & Solutions

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Comments

  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Yep, I changed mine too. I even have photos here.

    -juice
  • kate5000kate5000 Posts: 1,267
    Which fuel cleaning substance would you recommend?
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    I use Chevron Techron. Get Techron and not Pro-Guard, which is watered down.

    -juice
  • locke2clocke2c Posts: 5,038
    Techron is quite good. I've used others too, like BG and STP but they're not as effective.

    -Colin
  • jregen7243jregen7243 Posts: 91
    I brought my '00 OB Sedan for 30k service on Tuesday to Somerset Subaru. The only thing I added to it was to replace the cabin filter. Final cost - $487. Fortunately, I had $400 in MBNA Subaru coupons to use. Today I noticed that oil is leaking from the drain plug.

    Jon
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    They probably didn't use a crush washer, phooey on them. Take it back and demand another oil change, with a crush washer this time.

    -juice
  • sonnyb7799sonnyb7799 Posts: 13
    How easy is it to replace the brake pads on both sides of the rear of a 00 Legacy? What brand would you recommend for pads? ow many pads should I buy?
    I'm thinking that if I can do this it may save me a lot of money.

    Thanks for the help.
  • fibber2fibber2 Mid Hudson Valley, NYPosts: 3,735
    I had the oil changed (6.1k miles - OBW w/H4 auto) last week. While waiting, I looked at the temp chart in the owners manual and decided to go 10w30 rather than the std 5w30 for the summertime (dino).

    Years ago (I think Consumers???) did an oil comparison. One of their findings was that wide range oils often didn't quite live up to their claims. They were OK on the cold pour tests, but the wider the range, the more often they failed the hot viscosity tests. I figured that 10 was fine for summer cold starts, but that the 10w30 was more likely to live up to the "30" part when the July temperatures peak. Any thoughts???

    Steve
  • locke2clocke2c Posts: 5,038
    Steve,

    That's absolutely correct. What the chart and CR didn't tell you though was that a synthetic 5w30 will whoop [non-permissible content removed] in any temperature range over a mineral 10w30.

    Synthetic 5w30 vs. 10w30 though isn't that big of a deal. At that point if a synthetic 5w30 isn't going to cut it for you, it's probably time to step up to a 40 weight, like Mobil 0w40. (It exists, just expensive and hard to find.)

    -Colin
  • firewaterfirewater Posts: 5
    I've got a problem with a 97 Outback Sport that two dealers have failed to find -

    After driving the car for about 8 hours (I drive a lot) accelerating causes the entire car to violently shake. It doesn't shake while coasting nor does it shake in neutral but the problem is more pronounced when accelerating up a hill.

    To me that sounds like a transmission problem, but the first dealer I brought the car to said they couldn't reproduce the problem (I had to leave the car at a dealer in Ohio and get a rental car as I was in the middle of a cross country trip from Philadelphia to LA) and the second dealer in Philly insists that all the car needs is a tune-up.

    The car has 130K miles on it and I was nearly ready to trade it for a WRX but I'd like to know what the problem really is.

    -Vance
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    Has it ever had one in 130K miles?

    -mike
  • firewaterfirewater Posts: 5
    I've got a problem with a 97 Outback Sport that two dealers have failed to find -

    After driving the car for about 8 hours (I drive a lot) accelerating causes the entire car to violently shake. It doesn't shake while coasting nor does it shake while reving the engine in neutral but the problem is more pronounced when accelerating up a hill.

    To me that sounds like a transmission problem, but the first dealer I brought the car to said they couldn't reproduce the problem (I had to leave the car at a dealer in Ohio and get a rental car as I was in the middle of a cross country trip from Philadelphia to LA) and the second dealer in Philly insists that all the car needs is a tune-up.

    The car has 130K miles on it and I was nearly ready to trade it for a WRX but I'd like to know what the problem really is.

    -Vance
  • firewaterfirewater Posts: 5
    Mike,

    If the engine just needed a tune-up I would think that the car would still shake when revving the engine in neutral.

    -Vance
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    in neutral there is no load on the engine, whereas when in gear there is load on the engine.

    Kinda like running on a zero friction or low friction tread mill v. a higher friction one.

    -mike
  • bluesubiebluesubie Posts: 3,497
    Jon - I used Somerset once for my 15k service and they were great. They went exactly by the owner's manual. You may be able to see if there's a crush washer on there or not.
    Flemington's service price is a little cheaper I believe, even with platinum plugs.

    -Dennis
  • firewaterfirewater Posts: 5
    Mike,

    If the engine just needed a tune-up I would think that the car would still shake when revving the engine in neutral.

    -Vance
  • firewaterfirewater Posts: 5
    Good point about the load on the engine.

    I had the tune up done, so I guess I can take the car on a trip this weekend and see what happens.

    Vance
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Vance - first thing in my mind was the clutch. It's probably slipping and you feel the shudder.

    If it's an auto I still say the tranny is the problem. Time to trade it in! ;-)

    -juice
  • locke2clocke2c Posts: 5,038
    if it's an auto I'd say the torque converter is shot, low on ATF or the bands are slipping. with a lot of luck it's just ATF, but if it's one of the others you should trade it now while it runs well most of the time.

    -Colin
  • fibber2fibber2 Mid Hudson Valley, NYPosts: 3,735
    Thanks for the verification on oil choices. Maybe I will consider synthetic when I pass the 10k mile mark.

    Steve
  • jregen7243jregen7243 Posts: 91
    Juice, I'll check out tomorrow morning whether or not the crush washer is there (I'm sure you're right). But it was such a nightmare getting there and getting home again, I can't even begin to tell you. The traffic going to that place during the week is a nightmare. It's easier for me just to change it myself and do it right then bring it back.

    Jon
  • subearusubearu Posts: 3,613
    rotating the tires yesterday, I found myself confused on where to use my hydraulic jack on our Outback. I managed with the scissors jack and my 2 ton jack stands this time, but next time I want to do it right.

    Suggestions?

    -Brian
  • terry4848terry4848 Posts: 8
    I have a new Forester S with 1200 miles on it. A few questions: When I start the car the whole car shakes, is this common? I had an oil change at the thousand mile check and just rechecked my oil today and it registers way above the full mark. Could the mechanic have put too much oil in? It was done at the Subaru dealership. Also the mirror on the passenger side makes oncoming traffic look out of whack whereas the drivers side mirror looks normal. And everytime I get out of the car I get shocked, is that because of the seats having wires in them because they are heated seats? It's very annoying, any suggestions?
  • wmiller4wmiller4 Posts: 97
    Good question! I have been wondering that myself. Wasn't there an old post somewhere on this board that mentioned Griot's Garage had some kind of "pad" that fits into the hydraulic jack saddle? The "pad" enables you to use your car's jack points. Anyone remember?
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    I use the sub-frame/ frame rails rather than the body points for jacking.

    -mike
  • kenskens Posts: 5,869
    Terry,

    The shaking at start up is normal. The Forester uses a large displacement 4-cylinder engine. Although it's got perfect first order balance, it'll still shake at start up.

    I usually check my oil when the engine is cold and when I'm parked on a flat surface. A lot of factors can throw off the reading. Have you ruled all of the items out? Also, Subaru dipsticks can be tricky to read sometimes. You want to check both sides to make sure there is a nice flat bar going across the stick.

    The static shock is a function of the tires. The best way to avoid, as I learned from Colin, is to grab the A-pillar before you step out.

    Ken
  • subearusubearu Posts: 3,613
    My hydraulic jack has something like a 2" flat cup like surface as it's jack point. I guess I just found it difficult to find a spot that would fit. I thought you could use the crossbars or differential, but did not try that.

    -Brian
  • leo2633leo2633 Posts: 589
    I agree with Ken about the dipstick being tricky to read. It took me a while to get used to the dipstick on my '01 Forester. I found that the best way to get an accurate reading is to pull it out when the engine is cold after sitting all night, wipe it completely dry, then reinsert and remove. You should get an accurate reading at that point. If the oil is freshly changed, it's harder to see, because it's nearly clear, and the dipstick is a dark color. In that case, I find it helpful to move the stick until the light catches it just right, and you can see the oil level. I hope this helps.

    Len
  • lilbluewgn02lilbluewgn02 PAPosts: 1,087
    I posted this on the i-club, but wanted your opinions here (more insightful!). I have the usual clacking noise on cold start in the morning on the WRX...does anyone recall whether it was the cam-belt tensioner or timing-belt tensioner that was being replaced for that noise? Are there any TSBs for the noise?
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Brian: I use a peice of pressure treated wood, 2"x4", cut a few feet long. This distributes the weight evently. I set it at the factory jacking points (sort of under the doors), pushed up against the lower lip of the sheet metal, which holds it in place. It doesn't slip off the jack because the jack sort of "bites" into the wood.

    That works to get both tires on one side off the ground, which is all I ever need since I rorate F<->R.

    To change the oil I just drive up rhino ramps. I've lifted both rear tires by using the rear diffy as a jacking point.

    Terry: you may have a bad engine mount. While it's not common I think Autoweek had one fail in their WRX. The big boxer does have a lot of rotating mass, though.

    -juice
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