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Subaru Crew Problems & Solutions

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  • fibber2fibber2 Mid Hudson Valley, NYPosts: 3,732
    OK, now you have me questioning my memory. I will have to check and report. I thought I remember the quick oil place poster showing a before and after of valve body parts cleaned by their solvent, but maybe I was simply 'drunk and disorderly' that day....

    Steve
  • fibber2fibber2 Mid Hudson Valley, NYPosts: 3,732
    Thanks for checking on the mirror. I guess Greg and I will just have to go at Lyn's mirror blind... GREG - BRING YOUR BIGGEST HAMMER!!!!

    Steve
  • royallenroyallen Posts: 224
    Having done a couple of transmission fluid analysis on a Caravan, my conclusion that drain and fill about half the system volume at interval "X" is equal to complete flush and new fluid at interval "3X" based on average fluid contaminants. Since the cost of drain and fill is less than 1/3 flush (very inexpensive if you do-it-yourself) it is my choice.
  • locke2clocke2c Posts: 5,038
    what you guys may have been thinking of is the uncommon, but not unheard of, practice of using ATF in the *engine* temporarily to un-stick hyraulic lifters.

    I've never tried it and never will. But I just wanted to throw that out there in case that's what was being thought of-- I've never heard of using anything but ATF in an automatic tranny.

    -Colin
  • stevekstevek Posts: 362
    Friend of mine ownes a tranny shop and he has one of those flush machines. According to him on an older car, 100K+ miles, you beter leave the fluid alone than flush it, unless there are problems. On other cars it is a good idea but they can damage the tranny depending on how it is flushed. Many shops set the flush PSI high to get it done quickly and that can damage the tranny.
  • fibber2fibber2 Mid Hudson Valley, NYPosts: 3,732
    Colin,
    Yes, the 'hydraulic lifter cure' of the '70's was basically ATF.

    I need to stop by the quick change place ("Be Wise") and recheck that poster. I may have my wires crossed....

    Steve
  • subearusubearu Posts: 3,613
    moved here from these discussions.... subearu "Subaru Crew - Meet The Members II" Jun 7, 2002 11:01am and subearu "Subaru Crew - Meet The Members II" Jun 7, 2002 11:10am

    I also had the alignment checked, since it really never tracked straight since we got 'er. It would track straight if the wheel was held, but letting go would cause it to ever, ever so slightly drift to the left, even on right crowned roads. Rotating the tires helped a bit, air pressures were fine, but I finally gave in to get it checked. Talk about OCD - they noticed the slight off-ness it had and did a couple half turns on all 3 adjustments (tow, camber, thrust). Mind you, the tires have not shown any additional wear during this time either, hence my slacking on getting it checked.

    We'll see how well it tracks this weekend; going to the Dells (3 hour drive).

    -Brian
  • bat1161bat1161 Posts: 1,784
    Quick question(s) for you folks. I am bringing my 00 OB in for its 30K service at the end of the month. I have already switched to Mobil 1 for the oil; would it be beneficial to switch the Manual Transmission fluid for a synthetic as well when they replace it? What would be the benefits, and which one would you recommend?

    One other thing about the service-someone a while back was discussing the cost. My dealer, Flemington Subaru, charges $400 for the 30K service(this includes the use of a loaner for the day). I feel it is worth it since I have not done much work on cars before, and don't feel like experimenting on my Subie.

    Thanks,
    Mark
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    I have Mobil 1 75w90 gear oil in my Miata. The only noticeable difference is on cold shifts - it's easier. I've had no grinding or any other problems.

    Though Redline makes different oils, and I've heard for Subies you are better off using a different one for the gearbox vs. the rear differential. Perhaps someone more familiar can elaborate.

    -juice
  • subearusubearu Posts: 3,613
    subearu Jun 7, 2002 11:15am

    Seems what I thought was OCD was really Obviously Confused Disorder. Our sube now tracks straight if you hold the wheel at least 2 degrees off center. As soon as you let go, it pulls left, even on right crowned roads. The very slight pull before yielded no additional wear on my tires (eyeball & penny measured), but I'm sure this recent alignment would wear the left sides quickly. ARGGGGGGHHHHHHHH!

    I think it's time to take her to Liberty Subaru, in Libertyville, IL. I believe YellowbikeDon had previously mentioned they were excellent for service.

    -Brian
  • I was always more than satisfied with Liberty Subaru. I'd guess (assuming they still work at the shop) either Elisha or Axel will be checking your car. They're both super!

    When you stop in, please say "hello" for me. And, if get a chance, ask to meet Elmer Hansen, the Subaru Product Manager. He really knows the make and is usually willing to share his thoughts with people. Tell him Marianne and I say "hello."

    Don
  • subearusubearu Posts: 3,613
    I'll be giving them a call in the morning, and I'm sure they'll be able to get me in there this week. I do know one of the salesmen there, Earl Belongia, although he's more of their Jeep sales guy.

    I will look for those you mentioned and say hello!

    -Brian
  • bluesubiebluesubie Posts: 3,497
    It's definitely YMMV with synthetic gear oil in Subes.
    I've used Amsoil 75w90 (standard synth, not Series 2000) for a year and a half and never had grinding problems.
    One of the North Jersey i-clubber's said he got grinding with it, although a different guy didn't with the same MY RS. IMHO, it could be a different shifting technique.

    The main reason that I switched to synthetic gear oil is winter. My shifter was an absolute bear when temps got down to freezing and below. With Amsoil, it shifts like it's summer year 'round. Stay away from M1 though. It's not good for Scooby transmissions.

    -Dennis
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    The GL rating is correct. That is the big thing on gear oil for trannies. My XT6 and I believe all subies take GL5 which is different than most other MTs.

    -mike
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Yeah, there's also a GL4, so check the labels.

    -juice
  • nygregnygreg Posts: 1,936
    OK, contacted Liberty Subaru (NJ?) about ordering the filters and washers. Here is their reply:

    "Greg, thank you for contacting us here at Liberty Subaru. The oil filters
    list for $8.95 and cost $4.49 each. If you buy a case of 12 the price drops
    to $4.00 each. The drain seals list for .84 and cost .63 each. Shipping for
    5 would be about $5.30 and shipping for a case would be about $6.10. If you
    would like to place an order you can contact us at 1-888-782-9493 Monday
    thru Friday 7:30 am to 6:00 pm
    Thank You"

    So today I ordered a case. Anyone want to have an oil change party? Juice - thanks for the tip.

    Greg
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    I have about a dozen spare filters, so I'm good for a while. :-)

    -juice
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    Well my brake problem on the XT6 is fixed. We swapped over the rotors from the 88 XT6 AT to the 91 XT6 MT. :)

    -mike
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Interesting, so the older rotors were better?

    -juice
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    The old ones only had 90K on them, the new ones may have had 129K. Also they weren't warped which I think was the issue with the ones on the 91.

    -mike
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Nice to have a spare parts car, eh?

    -juice
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    Although it has been sold already just waiting for the guy to finish paying me and then it'll be shipped to TX.

    -mike
  • joe_sinjoe_sin Posts: 32
    Seeking advice. I have an annoying ding in the left passenger door of my 2002 Forester. Probably wouldn't be noticed, but I see it even when I'm not looking at it. The paint is intact.

    Can anyone out there recommend someone who does paintless dent removal? The local dealer uses someone, but they also seem to have a relationship with a nearby body shop. For a few scratches on the other side of the car, they wanted to paint the entire side. No thanks. I just want the ding smoothed out so that it's less noticeable without shooting any paint.

    I live in the New York metro area. Anywhere in Brooklyn or Manhattan would be pretty convenient, but I'll go where the talent is.

    Thanks in advance...
  • fibber2fibber2 Mid Hudson Valley, NYPosts: 3,732
    Reserve two for me........

    Thanks, Steve
  • jay_24jay_24 Posts: 536
    How much do you all pay? and where do you get them?

    I checked out two local auto parts stores and they each had Fram filters for $12.50. I've never paid over $4 (I think) for my old truck or minivan. I checked Walmart and another discount supply store and they didn't carry ones for Subies.

    Guess I might be calling Liberty Subaru too...

    --Jay
  • locke2clocke2c Posts: 5,038
    I think you might be mistaken about the price of your old air filters. They've always been near $10 if not more in my experience.

    But the reusable foam air filters we were discussing are available from AMSOil for about $35-40. After three reuses it has paid for itself and flows better than paper to boot!

    -Colin
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    $12 sounds about right for a paper filter.

    Oil filters are usually cheaper. Fuel filters can also be pricey.

    -juice
  • kate5000kate5000 Posts: 1,264
    got a note to visit nearby dealership for ECM reprogramming... do I really have to do it? My Forester runs beautifully (knock on the wood), no hesitation whatsoever, very smooth. I'm a believer for "don't fix it if it ain't broken".

    what do you think I should do: get it reprogrammed or?
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    I'd get it done. It is only an update that makes the CEL less sensitive, it is not a complete re-programming. Just my 2 cents'.

    -juice
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