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Subaru Crew Problems & Solutions

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  • outback_97outback_97 Posts: 130
    Old news, right? I just had this recall installed, and I have a simple question. Is it possible for the dealership to perform the installation WITHOUT removing the wheels?

    I had wheel studs damaged recently, and I think it was from this procedure, as they were fine (lug nuts and studs that is) a few months back and this has been the only service performed since then that should involve wheel removal.

    I got my hands on a copy of the Repair Procedures WWE-88: Step #1 Raise vehicle on a lift. Step #2 Remove the left and right front wheels. Seems pretty clear to me, but the dealership says they don't have to remove the wheel to perform the install. Who's right? Any opinions are greatly appreciated. Thank you.
  • dry_flydry_fly Posts: 12
    Hi:

    I have Yokohama H/T tires on my Forester S. They only have 27000 miles on them, but seem pretty worn down (eyeball).

    I am thinking of replacing them. I live in Oregon so there are both national and local tire dealers here: Firestone, Sears, Les Schwab, Beggs, Big O. I have looked on the web, and it seems that the Michelin Pilot XGT V4 or H4 are good tires, but expensive. should I get these or are the local/regional companies as good?

    I am coming up to the 30K mile checkup. It looks like they will change fuel filters, plugs, check brakes, and several other things I don't recollect. Are there items I should get or not get? It looks like they will change the air filter, but a friend recommended getting a K&N air filter which he says will last a lifetime. I don't know this brand, any comments?

    Thanks for any help.

    BTW, my previous problem with the Check Engine Light was because the gas cap was not on tight enough. The dealer also tighten the charcoal filter clamps and the fuel filter clamps.
  • vincer2vincer2 Posts: 97
    Subaru implemented a fix for 2000 and newer 4 cyls that have a pinging problem which surfaces in the warm weather. Take your car to the dealer and have the service department send the ECU back to SOA so revised software can be downloaded onto the ECU. You'll be without your car for at least 2 days.

    Don't expect the pinging to completely disappear but it will be reduced to a much more tolerable level. When the weather cools off (<70) the pinging will again disappear.

    Save your money - use regular gas. Higher octane won't correct your pinging problem.

    Vince
  • mrdetailermrdetailer Posts: 1,118
    Even if it costs a little more. Drain and refill the transmission oil, power steering fluid, brake fluid, and consider also replacing the radiator coolant.

    In the Mid 80's I had a pickup that I took in yearly for servicing. They followed the schedule and nothing more. So with Tranny fluid they only inspected it. at 90K had to replace a transmission. On subsequent vehicles I have maintained a rigid 15K transmission drain and refill ever since without problems. and my Dodge has 175K on it.

    In light of recent experience, I also change the PCV valve every 2 years regardless. I didn't change the valve regularly. At one oil change it was fine, then next time, when I checked the air filter it was filled with oil. PCV valve replacement completely fixed that issue, and not surprisingly, the rough running stopped immediately.
  • ejharaejhara Posts: 8
    Two replies in 24 hrs. Thanks! I'll have some intelligent suggestions when I take the car in for service.
  • blaneblane Posts: 2,017
    dry_fly:

    If you want to have to bother with regularly removing, washing and drying a dirty, oily air filter element, reoiling it and reassembling the whole thing, the K&N air filter is for you. I gave up that routine in the 1970's when ALL of the automobile manufacturers switched to pleated paper filters that filter out much finer particles of dirt much more reliably, with much greater convenience when they need scheduled replacement. K&N does do a great job of advertising though.
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    I use K&N and for one thing they are re-usable so I don't have to fill up the landfills with my air filters. 2nd advanatage is that they are much more water resistant than the paper ones. For me who does a lot of offroading this makes it more favorable because after a romp through a stream, I can take it home and clean it out w/o purchasing a whole new one.

    -mike
  • grugrugrugru Posts: 20
    Wentworth did our 30k service which included the stuff you mentioned and the "aggressive" stuff from mrdetailer. Not cheap but easily amortized. The did a good job (even cleaned the motor up a little) but WATCH OUT b/c they forgot to reconnect my washer fluid pump.

    I'm in the same tire boat as you - my geolandars have gotten a pretty good workout esp on logging roads; also my wife parks a lil close to the curb at times.
  • francophilefrancophile Posts: 667
    That's how many miles are on my 2000 Legacy GT, and much I just spent to get it to run right again. It was missing, backfiring, markedly down on power. It happened all of a sudden. 1 coil, 4 ignition wires, 1 fuel injector, and some labor later, it's fixed.

    Misaligned from the factory, warped rotors (twice), clutch chatter -- the last two of which, despite being widely reported by owners, Subaru won't own up to -- and now misfires, backfires, and hundreds of dollars out of pocket to make it right. This is the legendary Subaru reliability and bulletproof build quality? Hmmm. I sure hope all those people I recommended look at Subies fare better.

    The good news, such as it is, is that the car has found its old punch once again. From approximately 3300 RPMs up to 5000, it really rocks.

    I wonder how long it will last this time.

    Miffed,
    -wdb
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    isn't that stuff covered under the powertrain warranty? you are under the 60K warranty period.

    -mike
  • bat1161bat1161 Posts: 1,784
    Just made an appt for the 30K service at Fleminton Subaru(the one I was supposed to do last month). It will run approx $400- but that includes changing PCV valve, tranny & differential fluids, spark plugs, etc. They are also providing a loaner for the day. I plan on going with the synthetic gear oil this time around(tks Dennis).

    They suggested since the car has a 36K warranty, that I amy want to make a list of things to check. Does anyone have any suggestions as to what else to have looked at?
    Mark
  • bat1161bat1161 Posts: 1,784
    Quick questions: I know you folks recommended putting synthetics into the rear diffy and the tranny. After checking out the i-club threads I just want to verify something here. It looks like I should be putting in 4 quarts of the 75W90NS fluid into the tranny; and 0.8 quarts of the 75W90 fluid into the rear diffy. I just want to make sure I read this correctly.
    I have a 2000 OB MT. My question is do I have to use different fluids for the tranny and Rear diff, or can I use just one? In that case, which one?

    Thanks for the all the help.

    Mark
  • blaneblane Posts: 2,017
    paisan:

    Up here in Rockland County, our Environmental Protection / Health Department recently sent a mailing to every household, asking all of us to think more carefully about how much oil, fat and grease we put down our drains (including kitchen disposals). They are raising conciousness about how it accumulates, clogs sewer lines and wastewater treatment plants and of the costs to the taxpayer. That doesn't even address the potentially poisonous (to the environment) additives that may be in the oil that has to be cleaned from K&N filters. Another reason for me to question the K&N route for those of us who don't regularly ford streams in our cars. (Troopers with exhaust and intake snorkels may be an exception)
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    Well anyone in a dirty or dusty environment can benefit from it. How about all those paper filters that fill landfills, how does that work in to the EPA's little plan???? The amount of oil that is used on the K&Ns is not a lot, I think they are talking about pouring grease down the drain. I'd say it would take about 10-15 cleanings of a K&N to put the amount of oil you would normally dump from a family's bacon breakfast.

    -mike
  • blaneblane Posts: 2,017
    paisan:

    Well, at least the paper will be eaten by all those cellulose-loving bacteria in the landfill in time. That little ring of rubber or plastic gasketing is another question though. Hey, isn't that what Fresh Kills was all about?
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    Fresh Kills is now closed except for the WTC debris.

    -mike
  • i've read most of th post's and love the forum!!
    being able to find common problems,and potential fixes works great for me..as i'm always driving someone elses trouble..(see broke)..
    .not too far away is listed a subie wagon,(forgot witch style).with an automatic trans..says it "slips while taking off"..not shure if that's a filter or rebuild..any thoughts??whith the clock setting on 170,000..is it worth $1000??

    have yet to own a subaru,but have recomended them to my broke friends who needed simple,reliable transport-their history of many miles with fewer troubles..seen many "road weary" sub's that seemed to run better with age..not unlike the old bug's with the boxer 4..with a cooling sys..(guess some designes work ,some not)..

    what would it cost to put a aut trans in a -91 -maybe impresa??..could it be a easy fix??
    many thanks
  • francophilefrancophile Posts: 667
    No, the dealer checked, the parts weren't covered under powertrain or emissions or any other warranties. As for extended warranties, I've never had any luck with those for cars -- or anything else, come to think of it. In all the years I've purchased extended warranties I never even used them, let alone broke even on them. The warranties for, say, electronic devices never even make it out of the envelope, and the ones for cars invariably avoided covering the stuff that might actually break. A friend of mine bought one, for $2000, that he says goes bumper to bumper for 7/70. In that case I'm still up by $1545.

    None of which makes me feel any better about Subaru reliability at the moment. I'm leaving today on vacation, with fingers crossed that the car gets me there and back without drama. I shouldn't have to think that way about a thoroughly maintained car with 45K on the odometer.

    -wdb
  • bluesubiebluesubie Posts: 3,497
    Mark - I believe you're right on the Redline types. NS in the front and "regular" in the rear. Although, I don't think it makes a different for the rear anyway. IIRC, the front capacity was slightly more than 4 quarts in my OBS (4.2 or 4.5).

    I couldn't think of anything for them to check on my 60k. I didn't have any visible problems at the time. They found an oil leak on their own. Some o-ring thingy.
    My wife's OB had a slight shake at 60K and they replaced the front axle under warranty because it was out of spec.

    Have you met the owner? He's the white haired dude with glasses that's sits in the front corner of the showroom. Name is Ridge. Definitely a great guy to talk to.

    K&N - Even though I have a K&N and Amsoil, the oil concerned me as well. Not so much with the K&N because it's cleaned every 50k miles. Slightly more with the Amsoil because it's cleaned annually. A very small amount of oil is used on both though. While I'm not trying to justify this, millions of gallons of oil is leaked by cars. :-(
    Hmmm, maybe I can add enzymes to the bucket of water.

    -Dennis
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    Something doesn't jive on the warranty stuff. I'd call 800-subaru3 and get it verified, maybe even get patti involved seems like it *should* have been covered under the powertrain warranty.

    -mike
  • mrk610mrk610 Posts: 378
    I'll be going into have my o/f change soon . I have 11k on my 02 outback base wagon . Purchased in 9/01.Yes i bought it 1 day b/4 the 9/11 tragedy. Ok here is my question. Anybody have any thoughts on semi synthetic oils that are out there .

    Thank you in advanced
    Mike k
  • 8u6hfd8u6hfd Posts: 1,391
    Waste of money. Semi-sythnetic is only about 20% synthetic.
  • bluesubiebluesubie Posts: 3,497
    On some counts, they are only about 10% synthetic (although you definitely pay more than 10% higher). But are they slightly better than 100% conventional, IMHO. The best way to compare is by reading the manufacturers spec data sheets. These are available on the mfg's. web sites, or by emailing them.

    If you were to compare things like pour points, flash points, etc. you will see that a part synthetic is usually slightly better than a straight conventional (according to the numbers anyway).

    -Dennis
  • bat1161bat1161 Posts: 1,784
    Dennis,

    Thanks for the help. How often does the differential and tranny fluids get changed? I'm just wondering if it pays to buy these fluids in bulk, or just as I need them.

    I think I have spoken with Ridge a couple of times, I just never knew who he was. I've found all the folks there very helpful. I also found out yesterday, that if you mention you are a AAA member, there is a 10% discount for service.

    Mark
  • bluesubiebluesubie Posts: 3,497
    I can't remember the frequency for diff fluid changes. 30K maybe??
    Yeah, I know about the AAA discount. You have to show your card every visit since their new computer doesn't hold the info.

    When I first met Ridge, I didn't know who he was either. He's such an easy guy to talk to. We just talked about Subes for about 20 minutes and I asked if he was the sales manager. He said, "Well, something like that." He gave me his business card (which I didn't even look at then) and it said President on it. I think he co-owns it with a guy that owns all of the Flemington dealerships.
    He's a fan of old cars. He has an MG, Porsche, and two BRATS.

    -Dennis
  • 8u6hfd8u6hfd Posts: 1,391
    I'd just go out and buy some regular oil and synthetic, same brand and same weight. Mix them myself, to approximately 50% synthetic.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Ignition wires are wear and tear, but the coil and fuel injector should be under the powertrain warranty IMO. Miata owners replace their ignition wires every 30k.

    -juice
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    The tranny rebuild would be another $2 grand, so I'd pass.

    -juice
  • i'm still lookin..livin near cincinnati,it'd be useful to have all wheel drive,but don't need a money pit..
    --been reading where some of the newer ones were getting bad mileage..sounds like a restriction in the exhaust..if it's TOO quiet,it may not be breathing right, also,maybe the air filter might be trouble,but most likely the muffler or converter..especially with the sulpher,"rotten egg" smell..maybe the long trip idea could help,burn off some of the gunk they pack them with?(platinum coated ceramic pellets)..a new car will smell like that,but after,say 10.000 mi,they don't as bad??maybe a long trip with good premium(i've had the best luck with marathon)might clean it out..some octane boost??the idea is to get it hot,the short trips to the market are harder than trips lasting over 30/45 minutes..might work.. good luck!!W
  • bat1161bat1161 Posts: 1,784
    Thks for the info folks.

    Mark
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