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Subaru Crew Problems & Solutions

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Comments

  • lark6lark6 Posts: 2,565
    wdb: $241? Mine ran something like $360, and that was the cheapest I found in the area (4-5 dealers). Aren't we both in PA? Am I getting stuck with the Philly area gouge?

    Ed
  • royallenroyallen Posts: 221
    Colin: My Haynes manual for the 2.2L locates the coolant temp sensor "in the coolant pipe under the right side intake manifold". I needed a mirror to find mine, somewhat behind the intake manifold - about half the size of a spark plug with a single wire connecting on the end.
  • fibber2fibber2 Mid Hudson Valley, NYPosts: 3,729
    I spent some time looking over the engine bay last night imagining what a nightmare job an in-situ head removal would be. My respect for the brave grows stronger!

    Colin, directly beneath the alternator are two senders attached to the block. The one by the EJ25 cast mark is round and bigger - look to me like an oil pressure transducer. But further forward behind the timing marker flag is one that looks more like a thermocouple. Again, just a guess.

    Steve
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Colin: let the parts counter guy help out. They usually have diagrams of what the part looks like. So then you'd know what to look for.

    Man, I'll say it again - I miss Darlene. This is exactly the type of thing that she would look up and fax to me before I could even say "thanks".

    You guys know about all the mods I've done, but there were many more that we looked at and did not do, because with the part diagram I could tell it would not fit.

    -juice
  • bg18947bg18947 Posts: 183
    Does anyone know if the EBC brake pads offered at tirerack.com are any better than OEM pads? I'm talking about: stopping power; wear and tear; and potential rotor damage. Just curious to see if it is a worthy upgrade.

    Thanks!
  • Thanks all for the responses. I definitely am going to find another service facility, however, in South Florida, they are very few and very far between! I passed on the service and just had them do the oil change. The car was in for a warranty item -- which they didn't resolve!!! -- otherwise I would have just let Firestone do the oil change when I drop the car off today for the rotate/balance/alignment. *grumble*! I might just have to move north - for the Pine Barrens drives and access to more dealers!!!!

    Thanks again all!
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    I think we have 7 dealers in the DC area, something like that.

    -juice
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    Well they are racing pads. Depending on which ones you get (Red Stuff, Black Stuff or Green Stuff) will determine how good they are. I think the Red and Black ones only are effective over a certain temp. At normal driving temps they aren't effective because they are too cold. Green Stuff is good from the get-go, but will likely wear your rotors quicker than OEM ones since they are still racing pads made to withstand higher operating temps.

    -mike
  • locke2clocke2c Posts: 5,038
    Found it! Thanks to someone on the iClub whose description was like royallen's only more specific. The car runs much better at cold start now-- it actually brings the revs up. ;-)

    The bad news... saw spots leading to my stall on the way into work this morning and walked back to my car for a look. coolant is pooling on the right side (passenger's side) of the block under the intake manifold and running off the front of the block. I don't know where it's coming from, but an obvious guess is the coolant pipe that runs along the top of the block. The radiator return line that connects to it is not at all wet, besides that it would be unlikely to leak there and run all the way to pool on the block.

    sigh...

    -Colin
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    The saga continues...

    Could it have been left there from before? Probably not.

    -juice
  • subearusubearu Posts: 3,613
    Colin: hopefully its something simple. What a frustrating experience.

    -Brian
  • I can't believe that a better solution does not exist to boost horsepower/performance for the 2.5L forester engine. I bet the engine is "tuned down" for the US market and could be adjusted by modifying the electronics. Any ideas?
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    In today's car world the manufacturers pretty much tune them as high as possible to squeeze out all the hp they can. For instance the S2000 when tuned by the performance arm of Honda can only get 15hp more than stock.

    -mike
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    You can tweak it some. Here are rough prices and claimed power gains (my estimates) from a few mods:

    $40 K&N Filter, 3hp
    $150 complete intake kit, 5hp
    $180 UR Underdrive Pulley, 5hp
    $400 various cat-back exhausts, 5-15hp
    $200? high-flow catalytic converter, 5hp
    $400 headers, 5-10hp

    Beyond that, you get into cams and forced induction, which gets very involved and pricey.

    You can probably combine a couple of these to get another 10-15 horsepower out of it, but beyond that it's not very cost effective.

    I've ridden in two turbocharged 2.5l cars (Imprezas), and they are brilliantly fast. It's amazing what they can do for $3-5 grand. Basically you get what you pay for. Those two cars would pin you in your seat, easily quicker than a stock WRX.

    -juice
  • Hi, I'm new to this board.

    I own 4 subarus all of which run Bosch platinum plugs.

    I recently had ONE service manager tell me that the Platinum plugs in the 1996 2.2 liter Subaru have to go, because the 2.2 liter enginge was "not designed" for platinum plugs.

    I told him I have these in all my cars, they all run fine, that I've been working o ncars for 40 years, and so long as it was the correct temperature range plug, and fit in the car, it did not matter whether the plug was made out of platinum or irridium, or steel.

    Anybody ever hear of this from any other dealer? I contacted subaru with the question and am awaiting their response - if any.

    Personally I think this is one service manager's [non-permissible content removed]. but am open to researching even though his comments make no sense to me.

    PS. enging runs fine, no missess, revs up, good mileage, what brought this to bear is a "check engine" light and bad sensor in the car which I am replacing.

    please give me your input

    thanks
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    We have the same problem in the Troopers. But these are on ODBII Direct fire cars, it seems that they have higher or lower resistance and this causes the ODBII computer to go haywire when there is not the proper resistance or something, and they get a CEL come on. Unless it was the other whacky plugs doing it splitfire or something like that. I'll have to check it out and get back to you.

    -mike
  • locke2clocke2c Posts: 5,038
    believe it, goldenrover. all those things juice mentioned will largely only help high RPM as well.

    you're incorrect about the state of tune. the EJ25 SOHC is tuned for lots of midrange and part-throttle torque. foreign markets that get this engine get it just exactly as we do.

    if there were something very easy and inexpensive to do to boost power, subaru would be doing it to the production engines.

    -Colin
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    a lot of those options juice mentioned may decrease your power in the low-mid RPM ranges where you will spend most of your driving.

    -mike
  • kenskens Posts: 5,869
    Unfortunately, tuning a naturally aspirated engine for more power is tricky. Like Mike mentioned, gains at one part of the powerband often results in losses in another.

    Our EJ25 engines have been tuned/designed with N. American customer tastes in mind. The engines produce good low and mid range torque.

    The most cost-effective way (not necessarily the cheapest way in absolute $$s) is to turbocharge the engine. You probably get the most bang for the buck there.

    Ken
  • locke2clocke2c Posts: 5,038
    think I fixed this new coolant leak over lunch. lesson learned: do not trust your diagnostic skills when you're not a morning person and you're already late to work. ;-)

    I didn't fiddle with the upper radiator hose this morning because it was really hot, but obviously that's the best cause for a leak like I described.

    at lunch I popped the hood and gave the cool hose a wiggle-- yep, loose. checked the hose clamp... loose. fished around in my glovebox for this mini-screwdriver my mother-in-law put in my xmas stock a few years back and tightened it right up. I doubted I'd ever use this silly little thing but it works, bless her.

    more good news-- our execs announced today at the company xmas lunch that they're giving us another 1/2 day off for a good year, so I'm outta here at noon tomorrow. I'm gonna wash my car, she deserves it.

    -Colin
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