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Subaru Crew Problems & Solutions



  • miksmimiksmi Silver Spring, MDPosts: 1,246
    Thanks WDB. I swear the 0.75 in socket had less play than the metric; I'll have to check what size I had (might have only had a 20 mm).


    PS - Metric/English converter (Java) and Interactive Units Converter.


  • tlimatlima Posts: 124
    e l green: It supposed to be like that, as mine is the same way. I too noticed this when I first got it. It is probably like that for heat protection.

  • Thanks for the clarification, crew. I'm going to go out and get me an X wrench for the OB.
  • I use this for conversions:

    It helps to have a Palmilot but then you gain portablility ;-)

  • Well, my Forester and I finally fell prey to the notorious loose-gas-cap/"Check Engine"-light glitch. Since the light was still on two days after I tightened the cap, I took it to the dealership, where they checked the code and cleared the light. No charge for it, but a fair bit of annoyance over having to worry over nothing and the inconvenience of taking the Forester in.
    Just wish the vehicle could have a little more useful feedback so the driver could easily differentiate between a potential major engine problem and a loose gas cap.
  • Well, I noticed that my rear wiper was at a weird angle. I went back there and jiggled it up and down and it moved several inches. "It ain't supposed to do that," I thought, so I popped the plastic cover off and sure enough, the nut that holds the wiper on was loose. No lock nut was installed (these things are supposed to have lock nuts, or at least that's been true on every other car I've owned). The insides of the wiper arm are stripped, so I'll need a new wiper arm. The car side motor shaft itself appears to be made of tougher stuff, so it appears that I won't need a new motor.

    So now I find out how Camelback Subaru handles warranty claims. I want a new wiper arm, I'm not going to let them get away with simply tightening it down so that the few remaining ridges inside the wiper arm make contact, because those will strip out soon enough (the wiper arm appears to be made of aluminum or very soft "pot metal").

  • subaru_teamsubaru_team Posts: 1,676
    I know this light is a pain in the, well you know. But, if the car is performing okay, try this. Tighten the cap and drive the car. It will go through it's emissions check again when you get to around 1/2 a tank of fuel. If all is well, the light will go out. The next time you go to the dealer, the code will be stored and they can confirm that it was the cap. But, if the light is flashing, pull over asap. BTW - the EPA requires this light whenever the system detects a lack of vacuum pressure in the emissions system.
  • subaru_teamsubaru_team Posts: 1,676
    I'd suggest a dealer checking the cross bars on the rack. No charge 12/12. If that doesn't solve it, they have access to our tech. line who can suggest some other things. It might save you some agg.
  • stevekstevek Posts: 362
    I think the high beam on my 2001 Legacy GT is just not bright and high enough. The dealer said it was aligned properly. I am used to driving a truck for the last 20 years, is this the way car high beams to be?
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    I find the subie lights to be pretty decent. The headlights on my Trooper are absolutely horrid. Even after upgrading to 80/100w bulbs the reflectors/lenses are so diffussed that you can't see anything.

    I'd suggest you upgrade to a higher wattage high beam bulb (although if you fry the wiring harness subaru will not cover it) I'm not sure how resistent the new wiring harnesses are to higher wattage bulbs. I have 80/100w H4s in my '88 XT6 with European lenses/reflectors and they are awsome.

  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Gas: just drove from DC to CT and back, and prices were best in MD just north of Baltimore ($1.459), though NJ turnpike was close ($1.489) and that's full serve!

    25mpg on the way up and 27mpg back, with more traffic. Go figure.

    PSI: I'm running 33psi. 29/26 was too soft and bouncy.

    For off roading, I tried 20psi and it was still too firm. 18psi worked best for me in the deep, soft sand. I'd try 20psi for off road and adjust it from there based on your needs.

    Paul: I bet those lug nuts were over-torqued, probably by far.

    Eric: your exhaust is fine. That's how mine is shaped. Believe me, I've spent at least a few hours under Sandy.

    The good news is that it can flex upward quite a bit, since they're on rubber hangers, so if you scrape it you should be fine. You'd really have to bang it up to do damage.

    tex: OBD2 is a pain. They actually designed it to give the driver less information so you'd have to go to a dealer for even minor problems.

    When I was shopping for a used Miata, several people advised that I go with a pre-ODB2 or even an older pre-OBD model. They're more tolerant of mods, too.

  • tincup47tincup47 Posts: 1,508
    Was mandated by the Federal Government. It monitors more parameters than the non-obd2 vehicles. It was not designed to give more work to the dealers, but to more closely control emissions. Older systems could be out of spec and not throw a problem code, hence the added sensitivity.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    I agree for the most part, but I'd add that they pretty much assumed all owners were complete blithering idiots and needed this idiot light that simply won't turn off until you visit a dealership.

    Seems excessive for a loose gas cap. Why not give specific codes if the owners can very easily fix it?

  • tincup47tincup47 Posts: 1,508
    The car doesn't know why there is an air leak, it just senses the pressure drop. Also most people and some repair shops don't have the knowledge or equiptment to properly diagnose or repair emission related problems. Part of the reason for the OBD2 is that it will throw and retain codes to facilitate diagnosis of emission related problems.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Actually, it's smarter than you'd think. It can track a single engine misfire down to the exact cylinder in which it happened.

    I just wish the codes were more specific. "Check Engine" for a loose gas cap? C'mon...

  • locke2clocke2c Posts: 5,038
    A little late, but...

    Mike, 70lb-ft is correct for alloy wheels. Try 80-85 for steel, but not more than that or you'll ruin the studs.

    By the way, a good way to break loose lugs without getting an aching back is to put the wrench on and sticking out parallel to the ground (9 o'clock). Now stand on the wrench.

  • tincup47tincup47 Posts: 1,508
    I realise it is very sophisticated, but how is the car going to determine if the cap is loose or there is a hole somewhere in the system? If there is a hole, that should be fixed at the dealer. The car will also throw the same code if you fill the car with gas with the engine running. The system does reset as Patti said.
  • bluesubiebluesubie Posts: 3,497
    It came on for me a few weeks ago. I've had the hesitation (97 OBS) for a few years now. The only thing the dealer found was a "loose vacuum hose". Sure enough the hesitation came back with a vengeance and the c.e. light even came on. Added some Sunoco 94 and disconnected the battery. No more c.e. light and no more hestitation (for now anyway).
    If a loose gas cap is the cause of the c.e. light, wouldn't an ECU reset after tightening the cap do the trick?
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    I like Colin's idea. Just make sure you get the socket all the way in to the lug nut so it does not slip and strip it.

    tincup: actually, that's not quite correct. I've filled up with the engine running before and no light came on. I know this is not recommended but I had simply forgotten and it idles quietly.

    Anyhow, we could debate this to death, but it's not up to Subaru since it's federally mandated so I'll let you have the last word on the subject.

  • I had 3 different occasions on my old '95 Blazer (OH MAN, what an awfull vehicle, but that's another story.) where the check engine light came on. Took it to my mechanic each time only to find that it "never stored a code". Like I said, awfull vehicle!
    I agree with Juice that OBD2 should provide more data.
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