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Subaru Crew Problems & Solutions



  • mrdetailermrdetailer Posts: 1,118
    I meant to write H-4. But I was hoping that the engine cam cover seals would last longer than 125K. I also had to replace the Cam and Crankshaft Seals at 70,000. Is this a general issue with this vehicle, or have the engine seals been holding up better on models newer than my 1991?
  • subearusubearu Posts: 3,613
    don't see it in the 2000 Outback pdf in specs/electrical, but can confirm that the alignment figures are there. it does list the plug types, just no gap figure.

    guess I could go look in the real booklet in the car. ;)

  • kenskens Posts: 5,869
    Does anyone here have experience with aftermarket brake pads on their Subies? Just thinking ahead here, but at some point I'll need to replace the pads on my 98 Forester S.

    I was wondering if there are pads out there that are rotor-friendly but offer better street performance than the stock pads.

    Also, would I gain much by going with aftermarket rotors too? Again, I'm looking for a pure street application. Any comments on cryo-treating? ;-)

  • locke2clocke2c Posts: 5,038
    Ken I researched pads quite a bit when I was autocrossing seriously (and still have my eye out today) but IMO the answer is no, there's nothing better than stock.

    Additionally, some rear pad sizes are hard to source. The WRX / H6 Outback brake pad will be easy to find at all four corners for most any common high performance street pad, naturally... but I still don't think for pure street there's a pad that's better than stock when it's all considered: dust, noise, life, cold friction, hot friction, operating temperature.

  • kenskens Posts: 5,869

    I was afraid of that. I've been searching around on i-club but everyone seems to have one opinion or another about aftermarket pads. Mintex, Axxis, EBC...they all seem to have one drawback or another. My stock pads have been quiet and nearly dust free, OTOH.

    So, is there no low-cost mod that would improve all-around brake performance?

  • mike (and others) I was talking to a friend of mine who ran a muffler shop for 20+ yrs ( his son still does) and we got on the subject of midas shops doing everything now (brakes tune ups etc) And he said that brakes are real big business for midas. They turn your rotors/drums each time they service brakes - the hitch... they remove the maximum amount of material instead of only what is necessary. FWIW - it is just one person's story but I remember they used to say in radio ads "lifetime guarantee (all you pay for is parts and labor)"
    Kinda scary
  • fibber2fibber2 Mid Hudson Valley, NYPosts: 3,732
    Len, Sorry to hear about both the tire and wrist. A lousy weekend overall. Hope the week goes better....

    Shortlid, While it sounds high for a single axle brake job, the diagnostics for the shifting problem might have eaten as much as an hour of that labor. Take that off and it sounds closer to the $130-160 I hear for the typical 2 wheel job at dealers today.

  • cptpltcptplt Posts: 1,075
    there was a problem with the material used for the seal gaskets which was rectified in the last few years so they are supposed to last further than they did on your 91. I had to have them replaced twice on my 92 and once on my 98.
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    Yep, the 80s and early 90s are known for bad seals. I have a leak valve cover seal on my XT6. It isn't too bad so I just add some extra oil now and again.

  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Ken: Pat had his rotors coated and I think cross-drilled. If nothing else, it looks cool. Lucien got aftermarket pads for his Outback, IIRC.

    Maybe those guys will chime in.

  • how about stainless steel brake lines, such as Goodridge?
  • bluesubiebluesubie Posts: 3,497
    My wife's 99 OB has the same problem. She's going in soon to have the crank/camshaft seals replaced. The dealer seemed familiar with this issue.

  • locke2clocke2c Posts: 5,038

    I'd recommend Goodridge stainless steel brake lines. Be sure to inspect them at least once a year, and replace them --or warn the next owner to replace them-- after 3-5 years. (yearly on a race vehicle.)

    I have good initial grab because of them, although the squishiness won't go away unless you get rid of the stock dual-stage brake booster and replace it with a single stage unit. That's kinda expensive.

    Oh, also when you install the lines use a good quality brake fluid. You don't need something expensive, I use Valvoline SynPower, which is DOT4+ and has very good wet and dry boiling points for cheap fluid you can get at any autoparts store or even Wal-Mart. Actually... it's about the most expensive that they would carry but still, cheap compared to motorsport spec stuff. Flush your fluid really well and bleed the system well. In 2 hours (for the average DIYer) you'll be done and happier for it.

    Don't overlook the good bleeding. A little air in the lines makes a big difference, even if you're well above the level that keeps the brake pedal off the floor.

  • kenskens Posts: 5,869
    Thanks for the advice, Colin. I think I may look into those when the time comes to replace my pads.

  • cptpltcptplt Posts: 1,075
    I thought the WRX and RSK/GTB engines were essentially the same?
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    I don't think so. I guess since the Legacy is heavier, they went with a small turbo to help get it moving off the line, and a 2nd one for high rpm. The peak power is the same IIRC (I think they are artificially low in the JDM gentleman's agreement not to exceed 280).

    No matter, though. I'd put the likelihood at 90% H6, 10% turbo at this point.

  • locke2clocke2c Posts: 5,038
    nope, the B4 has had a twin turbo since inception. previous to that when the topline JDM legacy was the RS (no relation to US models, of course) it was a single turbo and basically the same as the WRX powerplant.

    several-- many perhaps-- of those B4 twin turbo engines have made it to north america via importers and individual enthusiasts. slight problem though, they won't fit in any LHD car. would make for a neat swap into a legacy postal wagon though. hehe

  • rshollandrsholland Posts: 19,661
    I LIKE the way you think! :))

    Bob—going postal...
  • I think I'd like to go postal as well
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    That may be a strong argument for drive-by-wire steering. Bob likes that stuff, what do you think?

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