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Subaru Crew Problems & Solutions

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  • stevekstevek Posts: 362
    Looks like the spurk plug wires for my 01 Legacy GT is strickly a dealer item at $150 or so. Looking for some better wires for less money. Just got a set of Accel performance wires (8.8 mm) for my 77 Firebird for about $60. No idea why a set of four skinny wires would be twice as much. Any suggestions? and I don't want to "make" my wires would like to buy a custom set.
    Thank you
    Steve
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    How fast are you going? All VDCs have automatic transmissions which will automatically upshift you to a higher gear if you are @ redline. The only time it can't upshift you is if you are @ redline in 4th gear which I doubt that with the gearing of ATs you reach on a regular basis! So just mashing the pedal won't hurt the VDC. I mash my AT subies pedal all the time!

    -mike
  • Mike, When I last touched the redline it was in second (I believe) dropping down from 4th at 55m.p.h.when I passed a truck on about a 15% 1/2mile incline. I glanced at the speedometer and the tach at about the same time...the time to return to my lane after passing was about 5 or 6 seconds and speedometer showed exactly 80 m.p.h. I did notice after hitting the redline the transmission went into a higher gear. As I mentioned I don't do this on a regular basis as I want to maintain my car as long as possible but I got tired of eating that exhaust, dust and debri thrown at me by that truck. Don
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    Not a problem, I do that regularly, punch it and it downshifts to pass. It would only be a problem if for some reason the tranny didn't upshift soon afterward.

    -mike
  • bluesubiebluesubie Posts: 3,497
    It's on the outside on the '99 as well.

    Dennis
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Sorry, sounds frustrating. You're doing all the right things, taking all the actions I'd take.

    Ask them to re-torque your wheels to 70 ft-lbs. Even the new rotors will just warp again if the wheels are over-tightened.

    -juice
  • Where is the external AT filter on the 95-99?
    Thanks,

    IdahoDoug
  • bluesubiebluesubie Posts: 3,497
    On the driver's side of the pan, above the drain plug.

    I just got off the phone with the dealer. The crimp in the filter was in the one o'clock position. It's still a mystery to me since the filter hasn't been touched since a new one was installed at 30,000 miles.

    I also noticed my previous dealer charged for plugs and labor on the 30K even though it's not required until 60K. I wish I would've known then what I know now. :-( My wife did the 30K at the time on impulse since she went in with the tranny leak.

    -Dennis
  • 1-800-SUBARU3. The dealer should have a record of your ongoing complaints and the Rep. can review them with the dealer to see what needs to be done. I'm sure they will find an answer for you. I'm sorry you're having such difficulty. When you call, please tell them that I asked for them to get involved.

    Thanks!

    Patti
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    Hey I checked out my factory service manuals for the SVX, while it's not the VDC, it should give some insight. It has some line-charts of what speed it shifts at in power and regular mode, based on what % of the pedal is pushed. The 2<->3 shift in power mode is at ~80mph. So when you hit that hard pass, it was normal for you to hit 80 mph in 2nd gear as it shifted to 3rd.

    -mike
  • flasksflasks Posts: 14
    Thanks for checking that out for me Mike..guess everything was working fine as it came right out of 2nd when hitting the 80m.p.h. and went into third. When I first bought this VDC I was expecting and prepared for sluggish but reasonable passing performance..it was the comfort and agility I was interested in. I'm not driving a car with Harley V-rod peformance but I am certainly impressed with the get up and go of this VDC 6 cylinder--one heck of an engine. With all the playing I've done going up and down the hills I did a mileage check today at fill-up and it came in at 25.9 miles per gallon..not bad! Don
  • locke2clocke2c Posts: 5,038

    V-rod? There's a Harley I'd own. Don't know that I could justify buying one... but if given to me you betcha. For near $20k I'm thinking Italian.

    On topic, that's pretty respectable fuel mileage Don especially if you like to tip into the throttle and enjoy the VDC!

    -Colin
    (600cc sportbike rider)
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    I found the chart while browsing the manuals cover to cover tonight and figured it would be interesting. That is great milage. I have pulled in 28.5 for highway milage on the SVX so far and around town with me driving mach1 light to light I get about 22-23.

    The H6s seem to really work well from 40->120+mph, it's just the initial 0-40 that is sluggish, probably due to the weight.

    -mike
  • stevekstevek Posts: 362
    Just ordered a set of Magnacore wires for my '01 Legacy GT and now looking for new spark plugs.
    I know of the NGK V plugs (I think that is the original plug form the factory, at least its number is the same as what is in the owners manual) and the NGK platinum plugs. I have heard about the NGK copper plugs and I am not sure it that person was referring to the V plug or that is a third option I have. I know platinum last longer but copper conducts better and I don't mind changing them every 35K or so.
    NGK web site was not much help, anyone knows about this?
    Thank you
    Steve
  • NGK copper V-Power -- BKR6E

    bit
  • stevekstevek Posts: 362
    According to the book it calls for BKR6E-11, which sounds like the original plug from the factory was a copper plug
  • jfljfl Posts: 1,347
    I've gotten mixed messages about plugs. One Subaru service advisor said my 2000 Legacy had platinum plugs. I'll be changing the plugs this month so I'll finally find out. I expect them to be copper.

    BTW the last two digits of the NGK plug # -11 is the gap in decimal cm. That is: -11 = 0.11 cm gap. Therefore, it's already pre-gapped for most Subies. 8~)

    Jim
  • locke2clocke2c Posts: 5,038
    Subaru of America has had in the published specs for some time that various 2.5L engines came with platinum plugs.

    I've never seen a single one, whether built in Japan or Indiana, that didn't have copper NGK or Champion plugs from the factory.

    NGK = good
    Champion = not fit for your lawnmower

    You will want to change copper plugs every 20,000 - 30,000 miles for optimal results. They're cheap and easy on the flat four though, so it's no hassle.

    -Colin
  • bsvollerbsvoller Posts: 528
    I always thought that the phase I DOHC 2.5 had platinum plugs and the phase II SOHC 2.5 switched to copper, presumably because access to the new heads was better...

    Because not all models went to the new engine in the same model year, there is some confusion as to which model uses what kind of plug.

    No ?
  • jfljfl Posts: 1,347
    Brian, that's the story I heard. So did any of you with DOHC engines have platinum plugs?

    I'll be changing to NGK BKR6E-11 copper plugs. If I find this first change to be a total PITA, then I'll consider platinum next time.

    Jim
  • idahodougidahodoug Posts: 537
    With today's engine electronics, a bit of caution in randomly picking plugs du jour is in order. Don't get sucked into the neato ads with lightning flashing in the background and the Escort beating the Corvette crap. The plugs in your vehicle were matched to its engine in terms of length of electrode, resistance, heat range and other factors. Some of the newer multi point plugs (splitfires, triple electrodes, etc) can cause electrical pulses the sensitive electronics interpret as a misfire and the like.

    Personally, I'd stick with the NGKs named in your owner's manual. Truth be told, there's really no measurable difference in performance from a spark plug. If it's clean and in good shape, a spark is a spark. Don't tell me the special plugs have a hotter or faster spark - it's all up to the power coming through the plug wire and the spark plug cannot change this.

    Save your money for better oil, or something else...

    IdahoDoug
  • joaynjoayn Posts: 2
    Thanks so much for your answers! I'll try having the wheels retorqued to 70 ft lbs, then if the problem remains, I'll follow Patti's advice.
    :) Joayn
  • jfljfl Posts: 1,347
    Good points, Doug. Electricity usually sparks at the most convenient point. Multiple electrodes will not necessarily have multiple sparks!

    The same goes for "hotter" plugs. All that means is that there's less of a heat sink to help remove heat. Therefore, the temperature of the plug is higher. It has nothing to do with the spark.

    Jim
  • lcklcklcklck Posts: 3
    Hi, I have a '96 Legacy wagon. The light illuminating the LCD display on the radio has burned out. I inquired at the dealer and he said they have no parts and I should buy a new radio (at $900.00). Well, that's a very good answer for the dealer, but it didn't help me much.

    I have taken the radio out, and it has no manufacturer name on it. I need the circuit board which holds the LCD and the little LEDs that light up the front.

    Does anyone know who makes the radios, or where I might get parts for such. OR where I might buy some of the LEDs which I could solder onto the board to fix this thing!!

    Thanks

    LCK
  • idahodougidahodoug Posts: 537
    A couple months ago, I spent around $170 for an upper line Pioneer AM/FM/CD player and an adapter for the wiring harness in my '97. By the time you get done messing around with your stock radio, you'll spend $30 and a lot of time/hassle to have only the original radio in it. Personally, I'd consider this upgrade option over repairing the stock radio. You could get lesser models (still with CD/AM/FM) for a little over $100. Or, you might call a few salvage yards who'll probably sell you an original radio for around $50. Unless you're real handy with a soldering iron, reconsider trying a repair.

    As for the dealer, that's just plain stupidity on his part. Ask him if he'd spend $900 on a factory radio if it were his car. You could get one of the finest audiophile level systems installed in your car for that.

    IdahoDoug
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    That's great mileage for the H6. It's really geared for cruising speeds.

    -juice
  • Check Engine light came on at about 32,000 miles. Dealer replaced the Air Assist Injector Solenoid under warranty.

    Is this a common problem? I did some research on edmunds and i-club but did not find much.

    sjs
  • flasksflasks Posts: 14
    My ONLY fault with the Soobie which might be normal (at least I hope so) is that when I start a cold engine it seems to roll over 2 or 3 times before starting and then it comes right up to proper warm up RPM. If the engine is at normal operating temperature it starts immediately. My past experience was with a Ford Ranger and a Ford Explorer (took me awhile to "get it"), anyhow, both of those vehicles started instantly when cold. Am I wrong in assuming my VDC should start immediately when cold like the others I just mentioned? ..all help appreciated. Thanks all, Don
  • idahodougidahodoug Posts: 537
    This is a symptom of a fuel injection system that's got a seal leak somewhere. Normally, the high pressures of the system are available for starting still hours later. With the leak pressures will drop and must be repressurized before the injectors fire. It's a simple and cheap test called a "leak down' test. They put the equipment on the system, fire up the car, note the pressure and shut it off. Then they go to lunch and if the pressure is holding this is not the problem. Try it.

    IdahoDoug
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    Is to turn the key to the "on" position for 5 seconds before turning over the key. This will allow the fuel pump to pressurize the line before starting.

    -mike
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