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Subaru Crew Problems & Solutions

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Comments

  • armac13armac13 Posts: 1,129
    Your wipers are behaving exactly as designed. The switch to intermittent WAS for 2001, and 6 seconds is about right. As mentioned, the ring adjusts the FRONT intermittent only, the rear is a fixed interval.

    Ross
  • idahodougidahodoug Posts: 537
    Dude,

    I was able to replace them in my identical '97 without removing the heater cable or the center console - saved at least an hour. Look for my post somewhere or get it from Paul (thanks, Paul!). Russ' pictures are good once you're looking at the heater w/ dash apart, tho...

    IdahoDoug
  • dudedude Posts: 123
    Doug, I got some instructions from i-club but they involve removing the dash components. Do you remember when you posted yours, so that I don't have to search through 6000 posts? Thanks a bunch.
  • Because of moving around, this was the first time my 2 month old 2000 mile Forester spent the night in the cold (about)40F. When I started it this morning: (1) in 2d gear on dirt road, the revs would increase but the speed would not; (2) when I slowed down and tried to go into 1st (usually no problem) it both stalled & the brake pedal would not move (3) and when I turned around to come back up hill (1 mile back home) it shuddered all the way back up. The dealer picked up the car within the hour & at the dealership it ran fine, they could not repeat.
    Any ideas? would being cold exacerbate something that would not repeat later?
    Thanks
  • Does anyone have any info on the cause of water dripping from the overhead console (location of sun roof switch and switchable two lights)? I posed this question last year but it just started to drip again now that it is raining heavily in the northeast. I seem to remember there were some suggestions that water was building up and overflowing the seal because a drain may be clogged. Help!
    I tried to gently lift out off the plastic cover that mates with the headliner to get a peek at the situation. The plastic did not budge and thought I might ask those who know before I break something.
    Other than dripping and the accumulation of water in the switch assy the headliner got locally damp when it rained.
    Thanks for the help!
  • My 93 Legacy Wagon with 186000 miles has just started occasionally hesitating and losing power at 70-75mph. One time it went away by downshifting and reaccelerating. The other time it continued at lower speeds and gears. Both times the problem did not appear again for a couple of months. Changed wires, plugs, and fuel filter. Problem still exists. This is the only problem I've had with this car! Any ideas?
  • cptpltcptplt Posts: 1,075
    had something similar on my 92. once it was the intake manifold (there's some cheap cardboard gasket which deteriorates with age and leaks)and another time a bad cam sensor or something but that did it more at startup.
  • mikenkmikenk Posts: 281
    Sorry to mess up your conspiracy theory, but my VDC thread is still there. Maybe SOA has selected delete capability. I am curious, did your car ever actually overheat or loose coolant from the actual coolant system, or just from the overflow tank?

    I am glad you like your Passat; I also thought it was a nice car, drove it extensively, but liked the VDC better. Still do.

    Mike
  • hondafriekhondafriek Ottawa CanadaPosts: 2,930
    To the best of my knowledge you will locate drains exiting behind the front and rear wheels, I had this problem on nearly all of the Accords I owned and the cause was just blocked drains.

    The rear drains on my Accords were accessable fron the trunk, after removing the side trim panel, in the case of the Accord the rear drain came out behind the rear bumper cover

    I have not had my Gt wagon long enough for the problem to occur but I will do preventive maintenance to insure that it does not.

    Cheers Pat.
  • idahodougidahodoug Posts: 537
    Dude,

    Go to post #5970 (above maybe 8 posts) and ask Paul for the directions. I don't know when the post was - I post a bit here.

    On the hesitation, this sounds a bit like a failing catalytic converter. The internal plates start failing and physically blocking the exhaust flow - leading to an immediate drop in power at higher speed/RPM. When you drop the throttle (ie to downshift), the plates can either fall away or spring back out of the airflow.

    IdahoDoug
  • Dude: The bulb post was back in June. Don't bother searching - I'll dredge it up & e-mail it to you tomorrow. I'm at work now & don't have it saved here. IIRC it's pretty easy from the looks of the directions, I just haven't tackled it yet.

    Cheers!
    Paul

    Edit: Had access to it here after all - and now, you should too. P.
  • dave226dave226 Posts: 22
    Hi everyone, I've been away and trying to catch up with all the missed posts (almost 3000!!) Anyway, I'm in the process of performing the 48000 km service to my 2000 Legacy. I've serviced pretty much everything necessary,but have 2 questions which I hope someone could help with. I've drained the transmission pan via the plug but only about 4L of oil came out. The manual has the tranny holding over 9L. Is anyone aware of how I would get the rest of the oil out? Lastly, I want to replace the gear oil for the front and rear diff with synthetic but am unable to find it in the necessary 80W90 grade. I've been able however, to find 75w90. Would that suffice even though Subaru calls for the 80W90??

    Cheers!

    Dave.
  • jfljfl Posts: 1,356
    Dave,
    The manual transmission holds about 3.7 US quarts (the OWNER'S Manual is correct). I also have the SERVICE manual which is incorrect (at 4.2 US qts). The 9L requirement is ATF fluid for automatic transmissions.

    Both my service and owner's manual state 75w90 for the diff oil. I did these changes a few weeks ago with Redline 75W90 Gear Oil in the rear diffy. Those fill/drain plugs are tight. See post #5906 et al.

    Also, if you have a manual tranny, it shares oil with the front diffy (I used Redline 75W90NS in the tranny/front diffy.)

    Jim
  • idahodougidahodoug Posts: 537
    Dave,

    An automatic transmission has a total. capacity, and a drain/fill service fluid capacity. The smaller drain/fill service figure is because an automatic transmission has places within itself that hold fluid which doesn't drain to the pan upon shutdown (torque converter, oil galleries, etc). So, the pan is all that is required to be drained for service/refill.

    The reason for this is quite simple. The fluid doesn't generally "wear out", but its additive package (detergents, anti-foaming, etc) do. When you refresh the 1/3 of the fluid, you also provide fresh additives which are deemed adequate by the manufacturer to continue maintaining the tranny's internals.

    There are complete flushes available from Jiffy Lube and the like, which do change nearly 100% of the fluid. While this is nice, I personally think it's overkill unless the tranny's been horribly mistreated/overheated, or there's been some contamination (such as submersion in water). Hope this helps.

    On the diffs, go ahead and use the 75/90, which is available from Mobil 1 widely as well as the Redline mentioned above.

    IdahoDoug
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    robert: now you are definitely trolling. I'm sorry that I ever even tried to help you.

    I don't believe when you say the VW SLOmotion is so superior, if that were the case you wouldn't have bought the Subie in the first place. You chose the Subaru H6, noone forced you.

    What "meltdown", your Subie never broke down in the first place, you admitted as much.

    Dear Edmunds Hosts: can we delete that post? It's just bashing Subaru, bashing the members here that try to help folks out. The criticism is neither constructive nor polite, nor is it even truthful (I just pointed out 2 examples).

    Enough is enough.

    -juice
  • stevekstevek Posts: 362
    Be carefull when you have this done, a bad operator can damage your tranny if he uses the incorrect preassure while doing the change.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Pat: I think they make the CEL less sensitive, so if you haven't had any it'll be even less likely afterwards.

    bedsond: first of all, 186k miles? Sweet!

    OK, what I would do next is a throttle body cleaning service. Our 626's fuel injection got clogged up and it started hesitating. It felt like new after the service, worth every penny.

    -juice
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Did a tire rotation yesterday, felt good to turn a wrench again after slacking off for months.

    Sprayed some lithium grease on the sway bar bushings, too. Visual inspection of the suspension confirmed everything looks good.

    Brakes look great. Still on my original pads with 48k miles, and they barely seem used. Top it off, they are quiet as always, maybe I'm lucky but they look like they'll outlast the Subie.

    Well, maybe not if I get to 186k!

    -juice
  • If you prefer to spend time instead of money you can change the ATF several times, running the car for a while between each change to circulate the fluid.

    If you are able to drain 4L from a 9L system then after two changes you will have put in 8L of ATF and 30% of the old fluid will remain in the system.

    After three changes you will have put in 12L of ATF and 17% of the old fluid will remain.

    After four changes you will have put in 16L of ATF and 9.5% of the old fluid will remain.

    The cost of wasted ATF will be a lot less than the cost of a flush at a shop (unless you're using synthetic, perhaps).
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    I like the drain and fill method for ATF changes. It's less of a shock to the system IMHO.

    -mike
  • I say keep the post. I think this post could be rather helpful for those owners with some serious or minor concerns.

    I just feel that b/c one person with such emotional involvement can't separate fact from opinion we shouldn't punish those who can.

    Michael
  • The problem is probably related to the clutch in some way. Be absolutely sure that you're not engaging the clutch even a little bit - make sure your left foot is not touching the pedal at all. You should avoid downshifts into first while you're moving altogether, but especially when the car is warming up. If that doesn't solve anything, it sounds like a leak in the master cylinder, or maybe the clutch fluid is low.

    Andy
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    There is constructive criticism, and then there's just plain old bashing.

    Talking about a meltdown that never happened doesn't help anyone. Yes, he had to add coolant frequently, and had his coolant analyzed by a lab, revealing a coolant leak. But his Outback never broke down. There was no meltdown. Why lie about that? He's mentioned spending $2500, on what? Why be so vague?

    Read the comments now and you'd find it hard to believe they made a conscious decision to actually buy a Subaru they now say they detest. They must have liked it, else they would not have spent their hard earned money on it.

    My point is, these discussions are to share information that can be helpful to someone, and should be truthful and complete. Along comes someone that is not using their real name, tossing out insults and criticisms and adding exactly nothing to the discussion.

    I come here to help out, offer advice, opinions, share experience. I don't even have a problem! He's here only to vent and insult people.

    Sorry, it just makes me sick.

    -juice

    PS I should know from experience to ignore trolls, shame on me.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,619
    The post in question has been deleted after review by the Host. While juice's opinions on motive/personality are not to be construed as those of the Edmunds management, I deleted the post because it violated the Town Hall rules regarding courtesy to others. In that respect juice is quite correct that the post was inappropriate. The poster has been referred to the User Agreement so that this type of thing won't recur.

    And yes, innoring posts like this is the best policy. Just let me know if there's a problem anywhere on the Boards and I will review it promptly.

    thank you

    Mr Shiftright
    Board Host

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

  • hondafriekhondafriek Ottawa CanadaPosts: 2,930
    It is not the CEL. that concerns me, rather this car runs so good I would be more concerned that they would screw this up, I am a big believer in the old adage, if it ain,t broke don,t fix it.

    However I am also concerned that if I do not have the re programming done it would be an excuse in the future to give me warranty hassles.

    Cheers Pat.
  • subaru_teamsubaru_team Posts: 1,676
    I'm sorry for not posting more often, but I'm having a problem typing.

    FWIW - I am aware of this customer and as I stated before, there is more to the story. I just don't think it is right to post specific customer information on these boards. As a general statement - -

    When we become aware of a customer concerns, we evaluate the validity of the concern. We put a lot of resources into that, including technical help, etc. Usually, the concern can be fixed promptly. Sometimes, it is not a situation that can be addressed prompty but does not impare the vehicle - that dreaded "normal operating characteristic". These take more time, but are usually addressed in the future with some type of service campaign (our expense no matter how old the vehicle). Sometimes the customer has other issues that we cannot confirm or fix. The customer always has the right to file for Lemon Law if they do not like our answer, but most Lemon Law arbitration boards will not accept a case without merit.

    People will post their feelings whether they are good or bad. Most of ours are good. We just have to rely on the individuals experience with us to help other customer's judge on the validity of continued commments. It is better than arguing on the boards.

    I hope you all are well, and I appreciate all of your kind wishes. I'm reading them, even if I can't respond to them right now. I should be back in a few weeks.

    Patti
  • subaru_teamsubaru_team Posts: 1,676
    number (1-800-SUBARU3) and start a case. Tell the Rep. that Patti sent you. They can arrange for the dealer to keep the car overnight and start the car on a cold morning to try to duplicate the problem and then fix it. Let us know how you make out?

    Thanks!

    Patti
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaPosts: 12,693
    was reading R&T today, and they have a 12-month/four-seasons (whatever they call it) WRX - which mag doesn't right? What caught my eye is that after 14K miles, the clutch in theirs is also chattering so badly they feel they must ask for it to be fixed at the 15K service.

    Since there have been so many posts in here about this problem in lots of Subie models, and since my own OBS did this its whole life, and got worse as the clutch aged, I am wondering (idly and for no good purpose, I admit!) if perhaps Subie should not make their clutches stronger? Particularly since they are now selling high-power models like WRX in this market? In five years and almost 120K miles, this was the only thing I was ever less than thrilled about on mine. I used to think it was due to the cable operation as opposed to hydraulic design, but now I wonder if it is or not.

    2013 Civic SI, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (stick)

  • Just about to hit 30k on my 01 GT. I've done all of the maintenance myself to this point. Just finished recently tranny and dif fluid changes, plugs, and air filter. My neighbor and ace professional mechanic is going to help me with brake and clutch fluid change. Is there any reason for me to have the dealer give it a once over at this point? The only problem I have had is the old (but very minor) clutch chatter. I guess that is the only reason I feel like taking it in just to get it on record. I am by no means at a point where I would want them to pull the clutch... yet.

    Tires are still looking good other than a noticeable uneven wear pattern on the drivers side. Slightly more wear on the inside edge of the tread. I rotate every 3k with oil change so not sure if it is front or rear alignment (or both).

    About to embark (next month) on another road trip. This time down to the panhandle of Florida to visit the inlaws. That should be around 6k or so making it about 19k in road trip miles this year. Love this car for road trips.

    bit
  • Juice/Patti, ever post I have made can be documented by service orders and letters from SOA.
    Would you like to see them??
    On the last day of our vacation our car had to be towed to a dealer because it overheated and the overflow tank was full of sludge, would you like to see the towing receipt and the notations the servicing dealer made regarding the condition of the tank.
    SOA refused to pay for the rental car bill, would you like to see the copy marked paid by us?
    Subaru said they would not fix the car in the letter they sent us, would you like to read it for yourself??
    Or perhaps you would like to see a copy of all the service invoices???
    Doubt we owned many new Subaru's, would be glad to show you a copy of the purchase contracts, pretty sure I have all of them.....

    Good grief!

    The H6 engine has a serious problem, many owners are reporting coolant loss and Subaru has done and will do nothing.

    Just where is the VDC section again??
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