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Subaru Crew Problems & Solutions

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  • hondafriekhondafriek Ottawa CanadaPosts: 2,938
    Thanks for chipping in, at least it is encouraging that nothing was screwed up in the process,it is always a concern that some hamfisted mechanic will make a horse,s [non-permissible content removed] of it.

    Cheers Pat.
  • I have owned two computers one 10 years old and one 5 months. I have owned a number of cars including two Subarus. I am constantly amazed at both computers and cars and how reliable they are given electrical and mechanical whimsy.
    I average 10 to 15 years on a car. That I can get into a car no matter what the weather or conditions and expect to get where I am going and to get there in comfort most of the time is amazing.
    I may be naive but I think most car manufacturers do a darn good job.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,990
    Yeah, they do.

    Of course, people's "standards" as to what constitutes a "good car" will differ. I have had the experience now and then of being loaned a "good car that never gives any trouble" and immediately noticing 12 things wrong with it that the owner has blissfully ignored because they don't hassle him.

    So you have to take all anecdotal evidence, (including MINE) with a grain.

    The H6 coolant problem sounds a lot like an air bleed issue.

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

  • mikenkmikenk Posts: 281
    Please explain what you mean by air bleed issue. Same as air pockets?

    Mike
  • hypovhypov Posts: 3,068
    on unclogging rear wiper spray.
    The resevoir is filled but not a squirt... well, dribble sometimes.

    -Dave

    edit: Oh, it's Mom's OBS ;)
  • idahodougidahodoug Posts: 537
    I agree with Ken. Get the alignment THEN the new tires. Driving even a few hundred miles on fresh tires with a bad alignment problem will start a wear problem on the tires. They may pull AFTER the alignment because they were worn in an uneven pattern. Definitely DO NOT drive on a bad alignment with those new tires - you're asking for trouble. The alignment process itself has nothing to do with the tires. You could have a proper alignment done with bare rims. Ken is correct that a good shop can tweak things a bit after the alignment but they should never do this based upon the tire wear pattern they see. If a shop says that's how they'll align your car, run (don't walk) to another shop that will rely only upon their $10,000 machine's laser measurements rather than some homespun guesstimate.

    IdahoDoug
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,990
    Yeah, basically Mikenk, that's what I meant. It's just a theory of course, I don't know, but every now and then a car comes along with a design defect that allows air to form in the cooling system.

    This often requires a rather elaborate bleeding procedure. I've even seen people drill and tap in bleed screws to make this easier to do.

    If you think about it, there's only 3 ways the coolant level can drop.

    1. A leak externally
    2. A leak internally
    3. A false reading due to air in the system.

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

  • Got my outback back from dealer Mon PM after piston replacement at 48k all under warranty. No more cold engine slap! Dealer was easy to work with, contacted SOA rep and got OK. Nowwwwww......about that slight pinion bearing noise at 50MPH ......ha! uffda
  • mikenkmikenk Posts: 281
    You appear to be game for working the H6 coolant mystery. Here's a couple of more clues / comments.

    - I don't think it is air pockets, because I can continuously top off the coolant and it will stabilize back at a lower level. I can't perceive a growing air pocket.

    - I don't think there is a high pressure leak since the level stabilizes. I have never seen sporadic leaks; either leaks or doesn't leak.

    - This leaves the overflow tank, but I have never seen any evidence of overflow from the top and I can't see any other mechanism for the coolant to leave.

    - New clue: both times that my coolant dropped to the add mark, I had travelled to a higher altitude. Would that cause the coolant to stabilize at a lower level?

    Seriously, I don't think this is a serious problem, but the engineer in me really wants to understand the physics.

    Mike
  • bluesubiebluesubie Posts: 3,497
    Try sticking a pin into the sprayer in case it's clogged.
    Also, it might have frozen since we've had some chilly nights.
    I use this clear stuff by Prestone called Windshield Melt (or something like that). I pour about half the bottle into a tank of the "blue stuff".

    -Dennis
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    uffda: glad to hear SoA was responsive.

    Crank up the tunes, bud! Your hearing is too sensitive. ;-)

    Hmm, higher altitude, less dense air, the engine's making less power, and working harder to get the same amount of work done.

    -juice
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Dave: I was gonna say, maybe because your Subie was last seen upside down?!

    Ditto on the lower temp windshield cleaners. The blue stuff is rated to -20, supposedly, I've seen stuff rated for 20 degrees cooler, that might clear up any freezing once it's cycled through.

    -juice
  • RainX makes a low temp washer fluid (pink/orange color) rated to -40 deg. I think it also has a small amount of RainX in it. I see it for about $3 a gallon at my local auto parts store.
  • Hello - For the third time, I took my Subaru Forester '01 S+ in today because of serious hesitation problems on acceleration. Mostly, when I start the car in the morning, the car chokes up and will not start up. When it does start, I let it warm up for a couple of minutes and attempt to pull out of the parking space and it lurches and occasionally shuts down.

    I was told at the Subaru dealership today that this hesitation on cold startup is a known issue by Subaru and that they are working on a fix. I have two questions: Am I being lied to and if not, does anyone know when this problem will be addressed.

    Thanks.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Well, that the dealer acknowledges the issue is a good thing, in my opinion.

    Would you rather they told you they'd do nothing about it at all?

    My Mustang had a pretty bad hesitation, worse if I suddenly floored it. Easing into the throttle worked better.

    That might help until the dealer gets a TSB from Subaru telling them what their fix is.

    -juice
  • jfljfl Posts: 1,356
    I've never heard of this problem on these boards. On my 2000, I just push in the clutch, turn the key and it starts.

    I'd contact SOA and confirm that this really is a problem they're working on, or perhaps check with another dealer if one's nearby.

    To me, this is a totally unacceptable situation. Hope it gets resolved!

    Jim
  • hondafriekhondafriek Ottawa CanadaPosts: 2,938
    Well I guess I obsessed for nothing, had the re prgramming done today and the Titan is running fine, no noticable difference from the way he was running before.

    Cheers Pat.
  • Thanks. They said it's going to be a while, so do you have any suggestions on how I can find out any more information, such as an estimated time when they will have a fix? Also, do you know if Subaru typically contacts people or will I have to continue to call the dealer for updates. I was told that they could not call everyone with the issue and that it was up to Subaru to issue a recall.

    As to your question whether I would prefer that the dealership had told me that they'd do nothing at all...of course not. However, I post to a message boards like this, so I can learn from other Subaru owners and not have to rely solely on what I am told by the dealership. The dealership has been less than forthcoming on one occasion.
  • erics6erics6 Posts: 684
    Anyone ever had this problem? Our 00 Outback occasionally hesitates when you turn the wheel and move forward or back. It happens both when the engine is cold and hot. It feels like the engine is bogging down. You give it gas and nothing happens...then it lurches forward and accelerates normally. It only happens right after starting the car. Never after the first turn and it does not do it all the time.
  • lspivalspiva Posts: 49
    I have 4 months old 2003 Forester XS with only 3,300 miles on it. And guess what, today while driving on a highway at 35 MPH I noticed that my fuel level needle droped from almost full tank to empty. After that low-fuel light came on and of course right after that "Check engine" light came on as well. I decided to bring the car to the dealership for checkup. And on the way there (about 5 miles) fuel needle was jumping up and down from full to empty. The service department found a faulty fuel pump and ordered to replace it. But because this is a 2003 car, it will take unknown amount of time (per dealer, it could take from 2 to 5 days) to deliver the part. I just could not believe it that a car that is "Made in Japan" will have such severe problem. So for now, I am out of the car and don't really know should I file for the "lemon" claim with SoA or just sell the car. I would hate to stick to this car if a fuel pump problem is just a tip of the mechanical problem's iceberg. Any advice will be appreciated. Thanks. Leo
  • kenskens Posts: 5,869
    lspiva,

    Sorry to hear about your problems. I can understand the distress over having a problem so early on, but a faulty fuel pump is hardly something to evoke the Lemon Law on. Actually, I don't know what state you're in, but you've got to have way more problems to qualify.

    I'd say relax, let the dealers do their work and keep your case well documented with Subaru.

    Ken
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaPosts: 12,695
    and the fact that the 2003 is very much an evolutionary model, I would say it is highly unlikely a systemic problem with this model. Most likely you just got the 1 in a 100,000 bad fuel pump.

    2013 Civic SI, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (stick)

  • My 2003 LL Bean Wagon failed OnStar activation due to a hardware problem. Anybody else?

    Back to the dealer..
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    Your belt might be too tight. If it is when the PS pump tries to pump harder it is causing binding with the engine. Make sure there is enough deflection on the belts.

    -mike
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    Yours is the first time I've heard this so my guess is that your dealer is BSing you. I doubt subaru is working on a problem that isn't a problem. My guess is that your TPS sensor is bad or your checkvalve in the fuel line isn't working properly. Both could cause hesitation when first starting.

    -mike
  • fibber2fibber2 Mid Hudson Valley, NYPosts: 3,735
    IIRC, the cheap 'blue stuff' uses methanol (methyl alcohol) to give the advertised -20' F rating. Now as methanol evaporates faster than water, guess what happens to that temp rating as it sits in your reservoir (with its vented cap) for a while? That's why it never seems to function as it should when it hits the windshield.

    Prestone and others sell a clear and a tan concoction at a premium price that may deliver better performance. My only concern is that one mix I looked at used ethylene glycol (the basis of radiator antifreeze) to achieve this. It felt tacky to me - will it leave a residue behind that promotes streaking? Also, isn't it bad for body paint?

    Steve
  • bluesubiebluesubie Posts: 3,497
    Steve, I've used the Prestone Windshield Melt (clear additive) on my OBS for a couple of winters and didn't notice any problems with paint.

    I only use 1/4 to 1/2 bottle to each tank though because it smells so strong. Also, make sure your nozzles are pointed directly to the windshield and no overspray is going onto the car itself.

    -dennis
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Cool, Pat.

    So that's why the blue stuff freezes up on the windshield even at +30 degrees F.

    -juice
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Leo: first off, that sucks. Take a deep breath.

    To qualify for a lemon, a car has to have the same part fail 3 times. The exception is the brakes - one failure is enough.

    Did they offer you a loaner car, at least? If not, I would call 800-SUBARU3 and demand one, since your car is essentially brand-new.

    Now here's the good news: this is the first fuel pump failure I've heard of, so the replacement should be fine, and I doubt you'll have the same problem again.

    My '91 Escort GT has a fuel guage with a mind of its own, it actually never was cured. The car was totalled in '98.

    Jon: there is an OnStar topic, FWIW. I haven't heard of any Subie owners using it yet, though. If you have a cell phone, you have 3/36 free roadside assistance.

    -juice
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