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Subaru Crew Problems & Solutions

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Comments

  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    The only thing I've spent money on was the battery, basically. Mine's just over 4 years old now, 48k miles.

    -juice
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    My Subie goes from car port to garage, fortunately it's almost never uncovered.

    -juice
  • bsvollerbsvoller Posts: 528
    My Forester is 2 1/2 years old and has 30k, which seems about average, maybe a bit low. You're not exactly wearing yours out, are you ?
  • p0926p0926 Posts: 4,423
    No he's not! My Forester is also 2 1/2 years old and just passed the 40k mark. Argh!

    -Frank P.
  • lark6lark6 Posts: 2,565
    3 years in January and I'm at 46K. I wish it could be lower.

    Ed
  • kenskens Posts: 5,869
    I'm at 78K miles in 4.5 years. That's about 17K miles a year. :-)

    A buddy of mine put on 60K on his Forester in just 2 years! :-O

    Ken
  • cptpltcptplt Posts: 1,075
    had front pads at about 45K, rear at 60K. Rotors haven't needed doing yet but I think I will be needing my fronts done in the next year and will probably need new rotors, have 72K after 57 months now.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Simple explanation - I put about 15k miles per year, but I've had two cars for the past 2 years.

    So at first I was accumulating a lot of miles, but then the pace slowed. Still, in the last year or so my Forester took 9k miles, the Miata, about 6k.

    Roadsters are great for quick errands and sunny days, but the Subie pays the bills.

    -juice
  • bsvollerbsvoller Posts: 528
    OK, so today I actually measured the interval between when the stock engine temp gauge reads "normal" and when the optional oil temp gauge does the same.

    On a cold morning running 5w-30 - car was in the garage, outside temp ~20, the engine temp gauge stabilized after about 7 miles at ~50 mph in light city traffic. At this time, the oil temp gauge was just coming off of the bottom peg (50 C = 122 F). 7 miles later, the oil temp gauge stabilized at ~70 C (=158 F). I normally expect a little more - closer to 80 C (= 176 F), but my commute is short. It seemed to be pretty stable at that temp.

    '01 Forester S with performance gauge pack
    -brianV
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Cool, you have more data for you analysis vs. most of us. :-)

    -juice
  • jfljfl Posts: 1,350
    3 years (and 7 days) on my Legacy ~54k mi. Still on original brake pads. I plan to change pads in the next 6k miles or so.

    A recent dealer brochure contained a blurb about current brake pads not lasting as long as in the past due to changings in the compound. Possibly something about eliminating asbestos. Has anyone else seen this?

    Jim
  • zrockzrock Posts: 6
    Hello,
    I have a 2002 Outback Sport and it has about 25,000 miles on it. Recently we have noticed a burnt rubber smell coming from the car after we are through driving and we get out of the car. The has cropped up very recently. I have looked under the hood to see if any rubber hoses are hitting the engine but I cannot pin down where the smell is coming from. Any suggestions out there on what to look for, etc?

    thanks
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    At your 30k service, I'd ask the dealer to do a thorough inspection of the belts, hoses, motor mounts, and suspension bushings.

    Do you notice any other symptoms besides the smell? Does the smell get worse under certain conditions (i.e. weather, speed, etc)?

    Or it could just be the undercoating burning off the exhaust. That would have a nice rotten egg aroma to it.

    -juice
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    That happened a long time ago, though.

    60k miles from a set of pads is not bad at all.

    -juice
  • I appreciate the data points. So, roughly 15 minutes of driving before your oil came up to temp for things like full acceleration, etc. Interesting and frankly a LOT longer than I'd expected. I'll think twice before stomping on the gas before then when I'm in a hurry on some cold morning. Makes me start wondering how long it takes for the transmission oil on an automatic gets fully warmed...

    IdahoDoug
  • Most likely this will be something to do with the engine accesory belt (s). Check with a very bright light around the pulleys, the tensioner pulley, and the accessories for evidence of rubber dust. Immediately after running errands, pop the hood and put your hand carefully on the drive belt (watch out for hot components and electric fans that can come on with no warning. If one belt is warmer than the other, or if the belt is hot to the touch, you've got your source. Obviously, check for a loose belt as well as worn edges from dragging on something.

    If nothing surfaces, I'd be concerned about the engine's internal timing belt. If you're so inclined, pop off one of the easiest covers and visually inspect the cover's inner surface for black rubber dust, the belt for damage, etc.

    IdahoDoug
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    I'd expect it to warm up faster than a manual. Why? Because there is slip until the lockup torque converter acts.

    With a manual the clutch absorbs the slip.

    -juice
  • bsvollerbsvoller Posts: 528
    What the oil temp gauge has taught me is this:

    1) On my commute, I may not quite get the engine fully warmed up. I will continue with a 3month / 3000 mile oil change regimen.

    2) Bearing in mind that my car was not stone cold this morning either, if it had been it's prolly 15 minutes of easy driving at least before it's warm, or, say, up to 10-12 minutes after the engine gauge says you're all clear. Park it and go in for dinner and a movie or something on a cold night, and you're looking at quite a while before oil hits normal operating temps on the way home.

    -brianV
  • jfljfl Posts: 1,350
    Brian, thanks for the info. About 3 blocks out of my driveway, I need to be up to 40-50 mph! Wonder what kind of wear and abuse my engine's going through!

    juice, I'm very pleased with getting ~60k on my front pads, I had expected to replace them earlier. 8~)

    Jim
  • kenskens Posts: 5,869
    15 minutes until oil warms up? Sounds like a case for using synthetic.

    I'm still on my original pads at 76K. But then again 90% of my driving is highway and my Forester has a manual tranny. I'm probably going to replace them soon. I do have a touch of rotor warpage so I'm wondering if I should:
    A) Replace just the pads and fuggedaboutit
    B) Machine the rotors but risk increased warpage later
    C) Replace both pads and rotors and take a big chunk out of my wallet

    Any advice?

    Ken
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Pads are cheap so I'd do those now.

    You'll trade in for a turbo something or other by the time you'd need any more brake work. :-)

    -juice
  • kenskens Posts: 5,869
    You know me too well, juice! ;-)

    Ken
  • dcabdcab Posts: 101
    We are getting quite a bit of wind noise on the driver's side of our Forester XS.

    I'm wondering if anyone else has noticed this with their XS, and/or has any idea as to the cause and how to fix it.

    The noise seems to have gotten worse in the four months that we've had the XS. It comes from around the area where the tweeter is and first becomes noticeable at around 25 mph. It is not noticeable on the passenger side. It almost sounds as though the window is open a crack, but there is no noticeable draft. I thought that it might be the side mirror, and folded the mirror in but the noise is still there. Besides, if it were the mirror, I'd think that the noise would be apparent on both sides.

    I can't find any visible difference in trim or anything else on the two sides of the car, so I'm baffled.

    Any ideas?
  • kenskens Posts: 5,869
    dcab,

    Check to see if all the seals and gaskets are intact. Open the door and look along the frame where the window would push up against. Also check to make sure the rubber gasket where the side mirror mounts to the window is okay. A small tear would allow air in causing the noise. Another thing to check is to see if your window is up all the way by opening the door and raising the windows. Sometimes tight seals can prevent the windows from rolling all the way up.

    Ken
  • fibber2fibber2 Mid Hudson Valley, NYPosts: 3,733
    As I mentioned last week, I am an advocate of block sanding rather than lathe cutting when the rotor is not in bad shape. That plus new pads, and you are on your way!

    Steve
  • fibber2fibber2 Mid Hudson Valley, NYPosts: 3,733
    Brian, IIRC, your optional gauge pack oil temp sensor replaced the oil drain plug? If so I suspect it is giving a somewhat pessimistic reading.

    In the lube system, the pan acts like both a reservoir and supplemental cooler. The pump picks up oil from the pan and sends it thru the block to the filter, then up to bearing surfaces thru small passageways. These very small quantities rise in temperature rapidly along the way. I am sure that the point-of-use oil is well above that of the bulk in the pan.

    Placing an oil temp sensor at the very lowest point in the bulk storage region is akin to placing the water temp sensor in the radiator (rather than block). Eventually it will read the right temperature, but the sensing action will be delayed.

    I don't mean to throw stones, but I suspect that the lubrication system is in much better shape than your gauge pack is telling you.

    Steve
  • bsvollerbsvoller Posts: 528
    Good points, Steve, and well-taken. I'm well aware that the oil temp gauge is going to lean toward the cold side.

    On the other hand, it's only a 4 quart system, and the amount of oil in the pan is relatively small, so it shouldn't reflect too large a delay.

    My interest was more in the size of the delay between the engine temp and oil temp displays. Some delay might be expected, sure.

    I actually got it with a mind to monitor the high side while towing in summer. A 4 quart system is more prone to overheating for the same reasons.

    Cheers

    -brianV
  • MY02 seden has the same problem on both side of windows. Ken is right. Try raising the window up all the way before close the door. That's one of the solution. The dealer would not fix it because I could not prove it.(who can drive up to 45, 55mph in their parking lot?) Anyone knows is there any after market seal can put on?
  • kenskens Posts: 5,869
    One other thing is that dealers will often track down things like noises only during the first year of ownership. They should try to replicate the problem (ie. drive it on the highway).

    Ken
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